pmclaine

What did they use to do it? I just happened to run into the Snap On truck operator the other day and he didnt think there was a snap ring set in his catalog that would work. I like the idea of the wired on extensions. I may try that. It would be good to get something that will work pretty steady. I like to grease the handle to keep the squeeks out of the operation.

I bought the aluminum roller handle for my S1050. I was able to remove the plastic handle easily enough with my snap ring pliers and than used two Snap-On "picks" like chopsticks and was able to secure the snap ring onto the handle shaft to secure the blue handle. My first try must have been lucky because it worked pretty well. The snap ring just came off my handle. It looks like my chopsticks method may have stressed the spring sligtly and it did not hold through my recent 30-06 sizing session. I have some new snap rings coming. Anyone put the anodized aluminum handle on their S1050 and have a good source for an extendo set of snap ring pliers or some other means to secure the snap ring?

I'm guessing the two pictures are the same brass at different picture settings. The top brass looks good. You have a nice swage/chamfer heading into the pocket and you still have that complete wall below to grip the primer cup. More or less could be problematic. The one to the right of the viewer looks about max and the two to the left are what goes through my machine. There will be variance in the swage just as there is variance in the crimp. This is exacerbated by the fact you have different headstamps on your cartridges. I know the NATO stamp WCC is crimped but not sure about PMC (cant read the third). Only set the swage to work on brass that actually is crimped. It should not affect civilian primer pockets. Send one piece of brass through and when it is at the prime station feel for slight resistance as the primer is pushed into the pocket. Disclaimer - I have only about 400 rounds of mil 30-06 loading experience. If a more experienced reloader comes on scene I defer to their experience and look forward to an education.

I have the parts kit. I'll check it out. I kind of put that to the side and only intend to use it for the Friday night breakdowns when I wont have time to order a part. My heirs will be throwing it out with all the other stuff I have accumulated that they will consider "junk".

Any "green enviro lead free" brass is going to have a crimped primer and this stuff is becoming more prevalent.

I'm pretty sure when I bought my small primer S1050 changeover the small swage rod came with the kit. The swage backer die will come with your caliber change.

Mine was doing this and I fixed it by increasing tension on the ball detent by adjusting the screw on the left side of the press frame directly behind the ball. After making that adjustement my 1050 was running super smooth for 5-6,000 rounds (only 10K on machine now some I'm still a newB)which probably led me to the conclusion that it was just a hung up piece of brass in the sizing die and the decision to force the handle against the ratchet. If anyone has done something similar and not suffered collateral damage I will feel comfortable completing my run of .45 ACP and hold off on buying parts/making repairs until I need to perform a caliber change. I'll just add a couple of QC checks the next time I load and make sure everything is as I had set it to be. Thank you.

I've been running too smooth for too long with the S1050. Finally had some kind of malf on the down stroke and I figured to raise the tool head to clean the plate and clear whatever problem was preventing me from getting a full downstroke. Well I forgot about the ratchet and made the stupid mistake of forcing the handle up. Thankfully the ratchet restriction tab is the weakest link and I snapped it, I think, without damaging anything else on the machine. Anyone else break one of these? Did you break anything else while breaking it? I finished up my run of primers without issue, actually liked the quiet and smoother running machine. I'm thinking to buy the parts on my next order from Brian but for the short term I'm considering running the machine ratchetless to get through the next 1500 rounds of .45ACP I want to run. Any experience to share?

Just another thought. Check that the ball stop is centering on its seat when the handle is in the full up at rest position. The ball detent also acts as an alignment check to insure the shell plate is in its correct position. I'm loading .45 ACP right now and I note that at a few points in the rotation of the shell plate the operating arm is "sticky" on return to full "up" and the ball dentent is not able to overcome the resistance and center the shell plate. With .45 ACP this is not an issue as the alignment pins complete the aligning, but with tall rifle brass it will be an issue. I'll be switching to 30-06 after this run of .45 and I will have to see what the binding issue is caused by or I will be having problems. I'm guessing a bent shell plate from muffing up a swage adjustment or I may have the plate a skosh to tight.

Check the alignment of the primer slide operating gear. If the cam is not riding on the pin perfectly the head will be tourqued off square. You cant make adjustments at the pin just move the cam inboard or outboard a little on the primer magazine tube and watch that the tool head goes up and down without any rotation after the alignment pins leave their holes. After I figured this out I was able to pull 30-06 as quickly as my .45 ACP (Which is much slower than the Youtube super fast videos. I have to give the powder time to drop). Once I figured this out the machine loaded rifle like a dream.

I was having a problem with the swage backup rod coming down on the edge of my 30-06 brass and crushing it. The shell plate and the toolhead were out of alignment. I found that the primer operating pin/track were not in perfect alignment. Because the track that operates off the ratchet pin to move the the primer slide was off it caused the tool head to be tweaked when the tool head was at the top of its travel. As I operated the arm the tool head would come down tweaked and the swage backup rod would hit the mouth of the brass probably 3/5 times. The back up rod hits 30-06 before the alignment pins have had a chance to "untweak" the toolhead caused by the misalignment of the primer operation parts. If you fiddled with you primer operation gizmo in order to do your caliber change take a look at the "track" mounted on the primer tube and see if it's contact with the operation of the pin on the ratchet are exerting pressure on the tool head making it out of alignment with the shell plate. When I took the time to think about what was going on the rotation of the tool head was observable as I manipulated the operating arm. If your tool head is rotating at all as it moves up and down this could be the problem.

This is the item. Every time Ihave ordered they were listed as backordered yet I received them in under two weeks.

Time is money also. I considered that and just went with the anodized aluminum ones from Power Factor Supply - Sean Gaines I think is the point of contact. They are beautiful but at $50 they are kind of pricey.

Makes sense for magazines and that is the issue I was running into. I usually load jacketed but just finished my first run of lead and I found its a messy task.

I have the machine broke down for caliber change/maintenance. I havent seen anything regards lube for the detent ball under the shell plate. Does the ball get grease or oil. I had some issues with it collecting junk and not returning to position as I was finishing up my last run. I couldnt tell if it came from Dillon with grease or oil as lube. Thank you for your help.

I pull stick powders loading 30-06 and polished the funnel which seems to help with the problems associated with that type powder. I didnt polish the charge bar but I did polish the aluminum track that it runs in. Dont remove metal only break the rough castings so that they shine some. Operation of the powder measure will coat things with graphite from the powder and do the same job I performed with some Never-Dull.

If you are concerned just roll the tubing on the peg so that a fresh section of tubing is in contact with the actuator. The tubing is an item to be bought at your local auto parts store and this thread reminds me I need to get some. Note - I shouldnt be commenting on direction from Dillon but if you do adjust the actuator arm as suggested make sure that when you return the tool head to the up position your adjustments did not cause the actuator arm to be out of square with the travel line of the tool head. I think Dillon's suggestion to make this adjustment with the handle lowered makes my concern unecessary. I think I adjusted mine with the tool head raised. Anyway if there is an issue it will be evident by the tool head being slightly twisted as it lowers. I had mine off slightly and it caused my rifle rounds to hit the swage backer rod as I lowered the tool head. This probably wont be evident with pistol rounds because the alignment pins will ensure proper alignment but I was loading 30-06 and the cases are long enough that the backer rod starts to enter the brass before the pins enter their pockets and I was smashing the mouth of my brass until I figured out what the problem was. I hope I did not just add something scary for you to consider. Its really simple, I just hope I have explained it right.

On the suggestion of BE I use a SDB 550 bin to catch my pistol ammo. This is for in case a QC check indicates a problem I only have 75-80 rounds to tear down. As an added benefit I havent experienced any of the issues that required your mod. When Loading rifle I use the medium bin for the same reasons.

I faced this same dilemma some 4-5 months ago. I have a 1050 that I bought with the intention of loading .45 ACp, 30-06 and .308. All use the same shell plate and same primer size. I feared messing with my 1050 because it runs so well I didnt want to mess it up. These three calibers were the only ones I wanted to load for and I figured any other guns would be such low volume I'd just buy ammo when needed. Than I bought a Smith and Wesson 52-2 .38 wadcutter gun and fell in love with shooting it. I needed to reload .38 special wadcutter. I thought about buying a SDB to dedicate to .38 special. Priced up with all the bells and whistles I was around $700 to get a dedicated SDB. Tooling up for the S1050 with all the bells and whistles was about the same. I asked the same question you asked and got similar answers. I am not an experienced reloader so the suggestions of "just convert the 1050" concerned me because I have heard so many stories of them not running right. I didnt want my ignorance to detune a well running machine. But than I looked at my bench and tried to figure where am I going to put this extra press. In the end I decided to go with the 1050 conversion. I bought more ammo storage boxes and just load bigger batches of ammo before converting. The conversion was not bad at all. I cleaned the machine while doing it and I learned alot about how it runs. It actually runs better now than when it was set up by the factory. You have a great machine use it to its full potential.

I was loading up some .38 HBWC last week on my S1050 and getting really upset that every tenth round or so the ratchet catch would unseat and bring my loading rythm to a clunking halt. I know the default fix is to remove the ratchet but I kind of like the warm fuzzy feeling the intended safety feature gives me. For S's and G's I decide to do a forum search of the "S1050 ratchet" and saw a post regarding another party having the issue and they fixed the problem by tightening up the ball detent that secures the ratchet arm thus preventing it from prematurely locking up the machine. I just went down stairs and made like a Dillon maniac making a reloading video for youtube and the machine worked like a charm. The more use I get out of the machine the better it gets.

I loaded 400 or so BTHP 30-06 after using the RT and found the trim cut was so clean there was no need to chamfer. A flat base may be an issue but the BTHP fed in nicely. I had to pull a few mistakes and I noted that the metal jackets showed no marks from being seated.

Hop eit works and please post an update. I didnt do the car wax or the Uniqutek but I would consider it if it really helps. I'm going to try to pull some IMR 4895 tonight and see how that goes.

These are the Snap On picks I used http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=84744&group_ID=13338&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog Just cross two of them like chopsticks and squeeze the ends to expand the ring. It took all of 1 minute to expand the ring to take off the plastic handle, install the aluminum, and replace the ring. I wish I had of greased up my handle when I did it. Steel on aluminum does sqeek. I think I'll go down stairs and do theis now. How much you want to bnet my first attempt was beginners luck and I will soon be ordering a new snap ring from Dillon or buying a set of extended snap ring pliers?

This is the link https://www.dillonprecision.com/#/POWDER_MEASURE-98-10-274.htm I used a dremel for the measure bowl but really the best shine was generated by using Never Dull followed by Simichrome and hand work. There are a bunch of aluminum polishes out there you can use. Just dont remove or change the shape of the metal. Polish the surface only. I didnt do the mods PANTHER308 did to the actuator arm or put the spring behind the adjustment screw. I threw Varget last night. I was aiming for 46.5 but ended up with a consistent 46.1 to 46.3. Its not bench rest but I'll be shooting these through a Garand and some 03's it should be fine. Part of the problem with my reloads right now is that I am doing small batches to try different powders and bullets. Once I settle on a powder and bullet I think I will be able to dial the measure in much closer to my target throws. Because my throws were consistent I could have bumped the powder up and got closer to the 46.5. My process is too chopped up each batch is only 33 rounds and I am adjusting seating dies after each batch so its too stop and start. I hope I'm able to at least get some base line info out of what I'm doing. If you have the measure you can try these mods and see if they work for you. If not I understand you can use an RL 450 measure die and attach a RCBS Uni Flow with the automated powder drop linkage and get that to work for stick powders. Please keep me updated on how this works for you. If you discover any tricks pass them along so I can try them out.

I just loaded 30-06 with IMR 4064, a stick powder. I modded my powder measure by mirror polishing the aluminum funnel and the drop parts. I was getting my target weight on most pulls and +/- .1-.2 grains when off. I got this idea from a post by a PANTHER308 who did same on the CMP forums and did a nice pictorial on the Dillon Precision Forum. I will try to find a link to his write up. He gets .1 variance when loading .308 but he also did some mods to the mechanical parts of the measure. I only polished. I will be loading with Varget tonight so I will be able to give you an update on how it went and I will get the link for the post that I copied the mods from.