pmclaine

Looks like a big box for such a small Han Solo figure.

I got around to trying to install my Forster Precision Mic Seater. I was aware that there are some clearance issues when installed on a S1050. I did have to trim the sliding sleeve so that it was flush with the bottom of the die. Installing the die as per instructions the bottom of the die still protrudes too far below the tool head to allow the projectile to clear the die as the shell plate rotates. It looks like the die has to be flush with the bottom of the tool head in order to allow the seated bullet to clear. I'm thinking if I back the die out of the tool head to allow the bullet to clear I will lose the advantage of the sleeve that hold the case and the bullet in alignment to get that concentricity that these dies are valued for. I could take my die to the machine shop and trim some more off the sleeve and this time the die in order to bring both flush with the bottom of the tool head. Anyone have one of these seaters on a S1050 and have a solution?

I recently bought a Forster Precsion Micrometer die. Prior to buying I heard mixed results about using this die with a S1050. I got around to trying it out in my machine tonight and found that the limited opening of the S1050 and the hanging sleeve of the mic die make this die and the S1050 incompatible for loading 30-06. I backed the die out as far as I felt comfortable which left me at a point that the seat spindle was bottomed on the mic head and the seated bullet still wouldnt clear the hanging sleeve. Any thoughts from you members that have had success with these loading 30-06 on a S1050? I'm guessing I need to visit my local machine shop and make the hanging sleeve equal to the bottom of the die. Thank you, Phil M

Seems to be many ways to skin a cat and this is my method on my S1050 loading 30-06. Tool head number one -Station 1 Dillon FL size die backed off to decap/straighten out necks and just begin sizing. -Swage -Station 5 Dillon RT 1200 set to trim to speciifed length and size to +.001/002 on RCBS headspace mic gauge. I found that setting either the FL die or trim die per Dillon directions was setting my brass back to -.004 or more on the RCBS tool. Max anyone of my three guns blow the brass out to is +.005 so I decided to size less and work the brass less. Havent had any chambering issues so far. Brass is tumbled clean of Dillon lube after it makes it through tool head number one. Tool head number two -Station 1 Universal decap -Station 2 Nothing -Station 3 Prime -Station 4 Powder drop -Station 5 Powder Check (Ive been setting my powder drops just low of desired grains and trickle my powder. I found this gets me better rounds for what I am doing right now) -Station 6 Seat -Station 7 Crimp backed off to do nothing. I let the neck tension set by the RT 1200 trim die do its thing.

I switch my S1050 from .38 to .45ACP to 30-06, soon .308. A big part of my decision with which machine to get was based on fear of changing calibers. When I was able to get rid of one caliber leaving me with only two to load (at that time) I figured I could overcome any caliber change issues the S1050 is said to have. I have learned that its not a big deal (except for cost of tooling up) and it is actually beneficial as my machine gets maintained every caliber change. Discovering how easy it is I added .38 to my original two calibers and look forward to a .308 set of tool heads. I mitigated any the minimal caliber change issues there are by loading bigger batches when I do change a caliber.

Timely post. Thank you OP. I'd like to set my S1050 up with a Forster seater for 30-06 and didnt consider this as an issue. If anyone has a solution and happily uses there Forster/Redding micrometer seater please post how you did it.

In addition to above^^^^^ Check the bolt that secures the roller that the case feed actuator operates off of. Any force to try and get cases to feed into the shell plate when they are sticking can bend that bolt. If it is bent it may be part of your problem.

Be patient and learn the machine. Once you are familiar with what is going on operation becomes Zen like. Ahh! Stoppage of operation as handle comes down. Confuscious say remedy to check case feeder and assist brass into station 1. I use my 1050 like a 550. I load three calibers and breaking the machine down for caliber changes has helped understand how it works and what is happening when the handle moves. It also gives me a chance to clean out the debris I created during my learning curve such as crushed primer parts, spilled powder and excessive grease.

I used a T-track system for my press mount. It is not elaborate but has worked well for me so far, allowing me to slide the press out of the way for full bench use. I bought material for a second aluminum mount plate and intend mounting a vice at some point or some other yet to be decided on tool.

Very nice bench! I can't tell for sure, but it looks like it is made out of maple. I had a similar bench, years ago, that was 8' long X 30" deep X 36" high. I quit reloading almost 20 years ago, sold the bench and most of my equipment. I retired, a few years ago, built a new home right smack dab in the middle of 300 acres, (my motto is, if you can't shoot off your porch, you are to close toy your neighbor ), and have a renewed interest in shooting. Soo, I have been lurking, checking out new eq., benches, load data, and buying new pistols. Yes sir its maple. Thank you for your compliments. I really enjoy that work area. My original intent was to follow the NRMA plans using plywood. Just kicking tires getting prices I was shocked to find that cabinetmakers can build nice stuff cheap. I valued their skills correctly but undervalued their thrift and economy. The entire materials list for that bench using plywood per the NRMA plan was going to cost me over $1K. I got it built/delivered and made using nicer material for $2K and I didnt have to risk any fingers. If you are good with woodworking tools and have all said tools and the time it would be a fun job. If you already have a job and may not be the best cabinetmaker - let a pro do it. Congratulations on your new living arrangements. Sounds ideal. Be safe and enjoy getting back into the hobby.

Norbs007 You are the Google guru. The pliers arrived today. If they had blue handles on them I would think they were designed by Mike Dillon specifically to perform aluminum roller handle installation. Thank you for sharing your Googlefu. Phil M

These look like they may be perfect. At $20 not much risk. I may have to break out the CC tomorrow. Thank you all for your replies. I appreciate your time. There is a lot of creativity amongst the reloader community. Please do let us know if it works. I like the grinding solution but I don't have a grinder. Thank you. They have been ordered. I will certainly get back to everyone. I like being able to jury rig stuff if need be but if there is a ready made solution at $20 thats not a bad investment. Thank you for sharing ypour find. Now stop shopping on Amazon and go to Brians store and buy something nice.

These look like they may be perfect. At $20 not much risk. I may have to break out the CC tomorrow. Thank you all for your replies. I appreciate your time. There is a lot of creativity amongst the reloader community.

Nice thing about the Rockler item is that it will run off AA batteries and it comes with a plug in power cord. I use the batts to keep cord clutter at a minimum. The batts have been lasting pretty good.

I modified the NRMA reloading bench plans. A quick Google search of NRMA will bring you to a PDF of the plans. I had a cabinetmaker build mine because though having the skills and tools to build the plywood version I figured to stick with my day job. In the end as happy as I am with my bench I think I got a great deal. There is no way I could have built what the cabinetmaker came up with.

I use 2.9 grns of W231 in my Smith 52-2 behind 148 grn HBWC. For .45 its 5.3 grains under a 230 grn FMJ. One keg, two calibers, less clutter. It pours to the exact measure pretty much in a Dillon drop.

Rockler woodworking has one. It has two heads on it, one is an LED only, the second is a magnifying glass surrounded by LEDs. I like the magnifying glass. I use it to magnify the pointer on my beam scale for better observation of the readings. I think it can be seen mounted on my S1050. It has a strong magnet for a base. When I use it on the bench to read my scale I support the edge of the magnifying glass on my scale shelf and it stays put.

There is an aftermarket parts manufacturer that makes an operating handle for the tall guys. It has an offset on it that prevents them from having to stoop at the bottom end of travel. Not sure if that would be of interest but thought to mention it.

I process my brass en mass but only load about 30 at a whack. Because the amount I load at a time is small I have taken to using a deburring tool to slightly chamfer the trim cuts from the RT1200. Having had to pull one round (30-06) apart I noted that my HPBT .30 cals were getting scratched up on the way in. Now I dont know if this would have a huge effect on accuracy but I figured at my small production per session 5 minutes using an RCBS debur tool would not be a hassle. I am loading small batches to trickle my powder drops to spec. If I wanted to go full production I would not recommend using the little RCBS tool I have to debur. If there is an accuracy loss from the little scratching I noted I dont think my skills would allow me to note it.

I case prep on an S1050. I'm on my second foray into rifle reloading and I have found I needed to make some changes from my first try. I bought an RCBS precision case mic. With my dies set as per Dillon's recommendation I found that I was way oversizing my cases for my rifles. The mic is set to zero off the SAAMI spec for an unfired round. My cases get blown out to +.003 to +.005. With my Dillon dies hard to the shell plate I was ending up at -.004 or so. I use a Dillon FL die in station one and its main purpose is to decap and reshape my gas gun damaged case necks. It may slightly presize but not FL. I use the trim die to full length size and aimed for a setback that would get me about +.001 to +.002 on the headspace mic. My trim/size die is not set hard to the plate. I have yet to fire any of my rounds just made that will be the proof of whether or not my new process is a sound one. They do gauge okay in the Dillon case gauge and I have dropped them in the rifle chambers without issue. I reload 30-06 and I dont want to oversize my brass, decreasing case life or setting up a case head seperation issue.

I'm guessing the bolt that holds the roller to operate the case feed plunger is bent from one of your jams. Unscrew the bolt securing the roller and checkl if its bent. Call Dillon. If your machine is less than a year old they will send you some new ones. More it will cost you $2-$3. You may have a spare in your spare parts kit. I bent mine loading 30-06. Its operator error. When you feel any difference in the handle slow down just jiggle the case into the shell plate or remove it and hand feed it into station 1. Its really not a total PITA. You will learn by feel what is happening and carry on. If the help you get here or from Dillon doesnt work please let me know where your window is, I'll be standing by with my catchers mitt.

Cant stress tip #1 enough. There is no rush. Stop and figure out what is wrong. I'm loading rifle now and it is a joy. My whole mindset is different. With pistol its how many rounds can I crank out after I get the kids to bed. With rifle I take my time, trickle my stick powder loads and start work with a goal in mind - 30 rounds tonight, thats it, than stop. Regards the primer cup I'm perplexed with the the problem. In 10,000 plus rounds reloaded Ive had perhaps one primer fly from the cup. Now having said that I expect tonight not one will go in.

I'll check Harbor Freight thank you. Do you have a part number for the extendo point snap ring pliers?

What did they use to do it? I just happened to run into the Snap On truck operator the other day and he didnt think there was a snap ring set in his catalog that would work. I like the idea of the wired on extensions. I may try that. It would be good to get something that will work pretty steady. I like to grease the handle to keep the squeeks out of the operation. It was a full-service hardward store and they had a very small snap ring pliers in the shop that fit. At first they wanted to sell me some but nothing they had on the wall would work. +1 on greasing the handle - squeeks bad otherwise. I have a full set of Snap On snap ring pliers. The problem is that the points are not long enough to reach the bottom interior of the handle. I asked the Snap On guy if they made anything with extended points and what they do have becomes wide too rapidly to fit the narrow confines of the handle. Thats why the wired on points of the very helpful earlier poster appear to be the solution. So sad that once again I find myself trying to compensate for a defficiency in length, unfortunately the purchase of a gun or motorcycle part will prove no remedy in this case.

If you make the mistake of assuming that you have a tight, stubborn, 30-06 case in your sizing die and force the handle against the ratchet tab it will snap off allowing you ratchet free operation. Ask me how I know. Legal Disclaimer - I dont really recommend this option. My limited experience has taught me that if there is any hiccup in the machine force is not the solution.