Mush from PA.

I use a Lee 9mm crimp die on my LNL. If the die is too short, take the locking nut off the die - screw in the die on the press - then install the locking ring on the bottom of the die base.

Just don't forget that you need some space to put brass in the hopper, change the wheels, and if needed get brass out. I need a step ladder to see in the hopper.

Does the bullet box say 55 or 62 grain bullets? Maybe you need to talk to the supplier?

I have not used other cutters. I load for 200 plus yard groundhog hunting in the 204 ruger and 223 rem. I also hunt Penna. whitetail with a 7mm-08. My trimmer is for accuracy so I use the Wilson trimmer. The shell holder keeps the case square on the cutter and it trims each case the same length. I also load 30 carbine (that head spaces on the case OAL so it must be correct). The Wilson cuts the thick 30 Carbine case with little effort. If you want fast and cheap go on Possum Hollow products and look at their 223 case trimmer. Check it out on U-tube.

I did not know they made varable height primer punches. When you get your's would you measure the old, and new and post your results. It has me wondering what I have. Only some times do I have a high primer that I so far have written off because of the case. Most of the time high primers are corrected with a hand primer.

Lift the ram all the way up and look all around the base of your press. Once I had a small piece of pencil fall down between the base and the shell plate. The shell plate would not drop all the way down. I was pulling my hair out trying to find a mechanical problem with the press. It was a mechanical obstruction (the pencil) and an indication that I was too tired to be reloading.....So I called it miller time for a cold one and then went to bed

Is your press moving parts rubbing up against the bench causing it to not go full motion?

Check the primer punch for debris, metal shaving, powder residue, etc. I had some primer issues where the slide would not always go back and forth. Some 440 grit sandpaper to all the sharp edges fixed that. Keep canned air next to the press and watch for spilled powder on the shell plate making its way down into the primer slide. Your primer punch may just have a burr that needs to come off.

thanks to the helpful info. I always prematurly post topics right before i find info on them, go figure. Calvery from Fort Polk ???? . . . Here I thought they taught you boys how to pase your self

Call them: Copyright © 2002 Tru-Square Metal Products P.O. Box 585, Auburn, WA 98071 USA (253) 833-2310 1-800-225-1017 sales@thumlerstumbler.com

I read a post that said the threads on the Dillon handle and the LNL were different. It said you have to cut off the Dillon handle threadded part and re-tap. Was I miss informed?

I found him on http://www.glocktalk.com/

If we are posting pictuers.

Mine works great also. I got the “8” ball. It seemed being behind the eight ball was more appropriate for me…..

This may be a dumb thought, but I gotta go with my strengths Did you check that you are using the small primer seater punch? The large punch would only press flush.

This has been posted before - I don't think the pictures will post so go to the link and copy - the text will explain: Bobotech on: http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=5450659&postcount=36 I spent quite a long time figureing out how to adjust those darned pawls. I came to a few conclusions. I should start a new thread but I'm just going to post here. First of all, the directions in the manual are confusing. I made pictures cuz pictures are easier. First picture: What it shows is if you rotate the pawl screw LEFT (counterclockwise), the shell plate will rotate more RIGHT (clockwise). Next picture: What it shows is if you rotate the pawl screw RIGHT (clockwise), the shell plate will rotate more LEFT (counterclockwise). Rule 1: Left pawl adjusts the shell plate when it comes down. This is the one that causes problems with cases feeding into the shell plate or priming problems (they both rely on the the downstroke of the shell plate). Rule 2: Right pawl adjusts the shell plate when it goes up. This is the area that causes problems with cases entering the dies (jamming on the sizing die is the big problem child). The rest: Now, another key point to keep in mind about the clicks.. The manual says to listen for clicks as the shell plate is locked into place at the end of the press arm stroke. They don't explain it very well though. When I was first fighting the left pawl (shell plate problems with priming and case feeding), the manual said to listen for 2 clicks. They didn't explain that the clicks are VERY soft and I was mistaking the releasing of the RIGHT pawl being the first click when in reality, the proper click is a very soft one. The clicks are first the sound of the pawl releasing and the second click is the sound of the 2 ball bearings locking the shell plate into proper place. The key about that is you want the adjust the pawls so that the 2 distinct clicks merge into one click, that means the pawl is releasing exactly at the same time as the ball bearings are locking into place. If you are thinking that the loud clicking is the proper noise, then you are wrong like I was. And when adjusting these pawls, you need to move the press arm VERY slowly. Oh well, I hope these instructions help someone else.

TRU, could you give some more info: What case (9mm, 45 ACP) What brand: (Rem, Win, Federal) What primer: (Small pistol, and CCI, Rem, Win) I'm not sure it would matter but it might. I had a hard time with Federal (range brass) 9mm Luger cases and CCI small pistol primers. When I used Win and Rem brass and the same CCI primers I had no issue. I them tried another press and repeated the same problem. I threw away the Federal cases and it fixed my problem. In a previous thread a poster had high primer issues on his LNL and hot glued a washer under the post that pressed the primer into the case. It seems you can wear out the medal under the primer press. I have not had that issue but others have reported the same problem.

My 9mm was bouncing also. For a fix I just slipped a business card between the drop tube and the press and slightly bent it around the tube. It works and I can see if the case is right side up. Prior I had a problem with cases comming down the drop tube inverted. I fixed that with a 3 by 5 card taped to the right side of the hole on the bin - remember the left side has the sheet steel adjustment plate.

IMHO, The T7 is a finely machined tank, a hunk of solid steel that will take hard use and keep working. I like setting up my rifle dies and not having to remove them from the press. I really do not think you can wear it out. That said, I would rather have a $30 single stage press for removing a Glock bludge than maybe being the first one to ruin a $300 press for not using it for what it was designed for. Tough call. I think you will break the bench before the T7.

No Sir, you are human. And a smart one because you were able to figure out your mistake. I bet you won't make that mistake again any time soon. Thank you for the reminder so WE (the collective board members)will remember to check the primer tube when we change calibers. This is why I like this board so much. It helps me keep all my fingers and other body parts during handloading. Again thank you.

Socrates' quote " True knowledge comes in knowing that you know nothing''. or "the more I learn, I find the less I know". Have some breakfast and keep looking. Keep asking questions. Go find a reloader and ask to see how they trim brass. Keep reading the boards like this one. Or go buy a used trimmer, learn how to use it and if it doesnt float your boat, sell it and buy one that does.

One more vote for the Wilson Trimmer. I use it on my 30 Carbine, 223, 7-08, 270, 243, etc. - it is fast and works great. I Used the basic set up for a year then bought the stand with the shark fin holder and I wish I bought it eariler. I just bought the micro (I forget the real name) case length adjuster and it is slick. It takes one second to change lengths with only one check of the caliper. Go on U-tube and watch the videos of each trimmer and pick the one you think works best for you.

To visually check powder in the case before I place a bullet on I place a small hand flashlight on top of the center hole between the dies. Hands off - this shines down on the shell plate and I can see powder in the case. I have not tried this on 38 special cases but it workes on 9mm cases.

Yes, Nice Lady (Kathy) said $5 for the stop and $4.75 for shipping and handling.

The number of cases in the hopper (10 to no more than 100 cases - 9mm) doesn't seem to matter for the case tipping issue. Once I put the paper card on the right side of the hopper hole the case tipping problem stopped. For the brass "rain". This only happens for me (so far) loading 9mm and only once in a while again with 10 to 100 9mm cases. I don't recall it happening after I put the card on the right side of the hole. I will have to watch when I reload 9mm again. I think the only way to figure this one out is to watch the hopper hole (or better yet find a camera to record so I can watch the more important loading) and see what happens and when. So far I mostly load 9mm with some 38sp and 223 and mostly test loads because I am still in load development.