ck1

Think you've got it, probably just needs to shoot it in. FWIW, I always polish the sides of the hammers on my CZ's, and am pretty sure it's part of the CZC extra love the custom guns get, it's quick, easy and makes a noticeable difference, happens naturally with extended use anyways. Though, I don't ever tweak the TRS in my guns, as I want as much reset snap as I can get, and would rather have more snap than a slightly lighter DA, but that's just me, YMMV.

Wanted to add: after installing a CZC comp hammer he might actually have to go up to a 15lb hammer-spring to keep his SA pull at or above 3.5lbs, but still, the action with the comp hammer installed feel to me to be far more linear, whereas stock CZ hammers seem to feel like more of an up and then down climb before the sear releases.

A CZC comp hammer is probably all he'll need. It won't take everything off dealing with the DA pull as far as pure weight numbers, but it'll make a huge dent, having the DA feeling smooth and silky... the ridiculous SA pull he'll get might make him forget about the extra weight in DA completely, as the DA is it's own thing anyways no matter what.

Anyone running the Metalform "Springfield" mags, while I know they only hold 9, I've heard they're the least problematic..? I ran Wilson ETM's for a whole and they were pretty good, but seating a full mag with one in the pipe would go no bueno every now and then, not to mention nearly impossible to unload... Thinking I'd rather have 9rds and have it work every time, than 10 that are sketchy, they used to be quite expensive but I've been seeing them priced more reasonable lately...

Thanks for the input so far... still not sure though so the more input the better. Something to add to my above questions: anyone run a 1911 in .40 and "survived" off store-bought factory ammo (not ordering stuff from Atlanta Arms or other match ammo sources) for any length of time..? What could I expect..? I ask because I notice those that run .40's seem to use 10mm or .45 mags and that has me thinking that running any short OAL factory stuff could be problematic..? My general feeling right now is that I could go either 9 or .45 and run without reloading for a while, not to mention start with a more affordable base gun. That said, .40 is intriguing as I could shoot major in SSTK and bunny-fart loads in ESP with the same gun and a recoil-spring swap...

Going to put together a new 1911 soon, just can't decide what caliber to go with: 9, .40, or .45..? I've got lots of experience with the 9's and .45's, absolutely zero with the .40's... Of consideration: currently I am not reloading, I plan on buying a 550 or 650 and getting a bench together in the winter, but until then I'll only be shooting factory stuff. I'm leaning towards a .45, as I've fought with getting the 9's to run in the past and IMHO getting a .45 to run 100% is a cakewalk in-comparison, plus, while I'll be hitting more IDPA matches than USPSA SSTK, would be nice to be scored major. That said, 9's are super fun (when they're running correctly) and ammo is WAY cheaper. I had gotten rid of most of my 1911 stuff so I'm going to be purchasing more or less a gun + holster rig + mags. Since I'd like to stay close to around $1500 or so, I've been looking for what's out there used, and also at the STI Spartans (going with a Spartan would mean I could pick up a case or two of ammo right off the bat), if I go .40 I'll be going with a new STI Trojan. One of the biggest things I'm trying to take into account is the power factor and OAL of factory ammo that's readily available. Here's what I'm thinking: If I go 9mm, then factory stuff is about minimum PF no sweat, and getting the shorter OAL's to run can be done, but it won't be as good as it would if the OAL's were just a little longer. In .45, getting it to run isn't a concern, but seems the PF will be higher than what's needed, putting me at a slight disadvantage. In .40, I have no idea how the factory stuff will run, I could get longer OAL stuff from Atlanta Arms to run, but pretty sure their minor stuff (for IDPA) is shorter and might be a PITA... Thoughts..? TIA.

Good luck... I've never once seen a Shadow sitting in a case at any LGS, your best bet to find one to handle is probably at a match, or, of you see a TS dry-fire that, the TS will give you an idea of a Shadow's SA pull, then try the best factory Revo's DA pull you spot, they're usually on par with that.

bsdubois00, if you get a chance, can you tell me what either of those weigh in at..? I use/prefer the same grips and safeties and am about to order a new one, and I actually slightly prefer the balance of the SP-01 Shadows, but since I play IDPA a lot I've pretty much got to go with the 75 Shadow... If yours weigh close enough to 39oz, I might be able to get an SP version to make weight if I were to get the T variant, IDK..?

^^^ Though, I too have no evidence that the sights being shorter have anything to do with it without running the two sets side-by-side...

+1. Same here. I've owned/shot both in the past and am running the Defoor's on my gun right now, couldn't resist how cheap they were to pick up (think about $40 for the set shipped). They're both good sight sets for sure, but that said, I remember switching from the Defoor's to the Sevigny's felt like a huge upgrade and also can't help feeling like I remember the Sevigny's being faster to pick up. I've also been wondering if it's a software thing... but after a bunch of rounds, I'm pretty convinced it was just me being a cheapskate thing, and wish I had just spent the extra $$$ and picked up the Sevigny's (like I should have in the first place).

^^^ Good plan IMO, as you'll hear a lot around here: it really is the Indian and not the arrow, a ubiquitous, hum-drum Glock can take you far in these sports.... For me it just becomes a question of finding one's preferred tool for the job that allows one to get the most enjoyment out of it... In 9mm caliber, it's just my opinion that the Shadows are the finest bullet launchers out there (and this is after finding out the expensive/hard way a few times going the souped-up 9mm 1911 route, which tips the scale more towards shooting IDPA ESP as 9mm in USPSA SSTK puts you at a disadvantage from the start). It's been my experience that the CZ's tend to run like they think they're Glocks, while most 9mm 1911's seem to think they're Remington 870's...

75 Shadow, done. I've been running a Glock again for the last few months, and while the clock doesn't show a huge difference, the targets sure do. It's more me, and less the gun for sure, but a super sweet and crisp trigger in a heavier gun that feels better in one's hands seems to have a way of making average into good, and sometimes good into great. Plus, I kind of miss the ability to put a round through a paster at 15yrds or so; for me: forgiving = accurate. Being "impulsive" (stupid), I got rid of my 75 Shadow a while back and have been kicking myself ever since. The fact that it's next to impossible to find a used one, let alone even get a hold of a new one sometimes, should tell you something... I've been waiting to hopefully score one used for a while now, and thus far, all that has happened is my beard has gotten more grey and the line has been getting longer for the new ones. Their trigger's are pretty much better than most anything out there right out of the box, you can make them even a hair slicker by touching their sears and sides of the hammers with a fresh sheet of 600 grit. If you still want even more of a good thing, then it's time to find Stuart... beyond that, if you're still not happy, it's time to take up Golf. I've decided to pick up a new one by August if a used one doesn't show up on the radar, that said, if you get one and somehow aren't happy with it, PM me, I know of a good home.

I have a chance to pick a GP6 up for basically cost (well, just north of $500)... I'm currently back to shooting MY "ol' faithful" Glock 17, but even after having owned and put thousands of rounds through a few CZ Shadow's and tricked out CZ's with incredibly sweet triggers, the out-of-the-box trigger on the GP6 is just shockingly good (and the unique/neat trick where the pretty much have zero pre-travel and turn into a 1911 once in SA is just crazy), not to mention, their super-short reset which would have even the biggest 1911-snobs scratching their heads, I'm finding it hard to resist... Thing is, I've got a few questions: (1) I prefer to be able to work on my own guns, and I'm used to being able to take my CZ's/1911's/Glocks down soup to nuts; the GP6 looks pretty tricky and is a little intimidating looking at the parts diagrams for them. Are there guys out there who've been down that road and have any thoughts to share..? (2) I read in another thread that STI isn't importing any more GP5/6 product... Anyone know I will just be stuck trying to deal with contacting Europe if I have any parts breakages or issues that require sending it in..? (3) What are guys thoughts on their long-term reliability when put through lots of rounds and after they've seen some real mileage..? I've read a few (not many) things out there with guys having extraction issues and such and trying to get a good grasp on what I may have to deal with if I get one that's "moody"..? I wasn't even on the look-out for a new blaster and was really surprised to see one in my LGS's case... I asked to check it out and the guy there was like "wow, you might be the first guy who's wanted to even have me get that out of the case", and after playing with it for a couple minutes and being impressed I asked if any of the guys who work at the shop had even fondled it to which he said "nope, doubt it". I handed it back to him and said "dry-fire it a couple times, check out it's trigger", dude dry-fired it in SA and immediately said "holy s**t" looking at me in disbelief... Before I plunk down for the gun, then spend the other 200-300 for sights, mags, and holster set-up, was just wondering if the thing is worth the trouble (I think it might be) and if I just might be better passing on it and spending my $$$ on ammo as planned..? Thanks in advance.

Warren Tactical Sevigny Competition Sights, I'm also a total convert to the black serrated over the FO fronts. FWIW, think what height you choose depends on what kind of POA/POI you're looking for: the .215" hits right at the tip-top of the blade at about 7-10 yards, a 2-6" (depending on load) sort of "six o'clock" hold at 25. The .245" is more of a "hold over" at 7-10 and right at the the top of the blade at 25. Speaking on G17's and 34's. Personally, I dig the .215", as it allows an easy "lollipop" on 6" steel out to 25 yards, and I don't understand how guys have the patience to almost cover up the A/0-zone on targets out at those distances anyways...

Yeah, that's the correct info. I looked up a couple of the older threads on "which Aftec for a Trojan 9mm", and after checking the parts numbers listed, looks like I had posted earlier the exact opposite of what seems to be correct; the 9mm/.38 super-comp is supposed to be the correct one to get. Guess i had it mixed up as the 9/38 super-comp version didn't play well with my particular specimen. Sorry for adding to your confusion. Good luck.

I have had my share of horrible luck with Tula ammo and reduced power striker springs... Can't speak to the peening of the FPB you're describing, but actually had the same light-strike issues with a Wolff 5.0lb striker spring. I went back to the stock 5.5lb striker spring and have had nearly 100% reliability. Tula stuff is pretty bottom of the barrel, so I've still had a couple bum primers/rounds here and there, but pretty sure it was just par for the course as the stuff isn't the best.

Yeah, looks like the extractor has lost tension, I'm with Ronnie, pull it and re-bend it some (might take a few tries to get it right). Going to an Aftec is a good idea IMO, just make sure you get the correct one: .38 super, I mistakenly got the 9mm/.38 supercomp one and it was actually worse in the Trojan than the standard one unless I only ran one spring with it (the rear one). I found out later through another thread that the Aftec guys actually recommend the .38 super one for 9mm STI's (and it's showing as in-stock, just checked).

That HAJO is great idea, looks stable and robust enough for us "fixed" guys, but with the ability to tune POI for different loads without having to buy-to-try new front blades...

Yes. If the hammer-hooks are rubbing or allowed to contact the sear without falling past the sear cleanly as they should when the trigger is all the way back it' no bueno. Besides, being dangerous, it'll also lead to rounding off the sear, which is also no bueno. Clear the gun, and then dry-fire it without releasing the trigger (hold it all the way to the rear), then rock the hammer back and forth, if you can feel any rubbing, back out the over-travel screw until you cannot detect even the slightest rubbing taking place.

Having owned and put thousands of rounds through both, I say go for the Shadow no question. The Trojans are great pistols, but being a 9mm 1911, expect headaches if you go that route, the CZ Shadows are almost an "unknown quantity" to a lot of 1911 shooters, many of them would be downright shocked to feel just a how good a Shadow's trigger is even compared to a nice top-shelf 1911's. IMO, a kick-ass trigger is one of the main, if not THE reason, to go with the 1911 platform... nothing else really compares, well except for a Shadow's trigger. The two pistols are different animals, but they really have a lot more in common than one might think: they both are heavy, solid-feeling guns, with great ergos, excellent built-in mechanical accuracy, and scary-good triggers... but they also can both be adapted to different size hands and tuned with spring-weights and such to perform exactly as their pilot intends; while not even close to the 1911 aftermarket, pretty much everything a a tinkerer would want to play around with a Shadow is out there and available (sights, grips, magwells, etc). The Trojans in 9mm are fantastic when they're working well, but there is kind of a lot involved with getting one to run right, and getting an example to run 100% is maybe even next to impossible. Seems there are lots of reports from guys claiming their's runs 100%, yet in my experience it seems some of these guys have selective amnesia, as I've seen a couple guys who've posted those experiences have multiple malfs and jams right in front of me and then carry on a few days later telling tales of 100% reliability like it never happened... Perform a search of "Trojan 9mm" and/or "9mm 1911" on the forum and you'll see pretty quickly that they can be quite the enigma to get to run; there'll be plenty of "use these mags", "re-profile the slide-stop", "bend the mag springs here", etc... now I'm not hating down on the Trojans or 9mm 1911's, but let's just say it's not all just a case of coincidence. The 9mm 1911's have inherent reliability hurdles to overcome in the born-for-longer OAL-.45acp design that are just not present in the born-for-9mm Shadow platform. Now I'm not saying you won't find some issues with the Shadows out there either, but 9 times out of 10 with the Shadows it will stem from a guy attempting to set one up with a sub-6lb double-action pull, and that ain't real easy to do, left in a "real world reliable" state, just about any Shadow can be expected to deliver a crisp, creep-free and sweet 3lb or less SA pull with a 6-7lb DA pull, lowering the DA weight can quickly become a PITA and throw the gun's reliability in the toilet. IMO, the Shadows deliver pretty much what everybody is looking for from a sick 9mm 1911, just without the headaches/drawbacks. If you can, better than anything I could offer, try to get a hold of a Shadow and a Trojan or similar 9mm 1911 and put some rounds downrange, my bet is that the differences and similarities will bare themselves out pretty quickly and you'll find that the Shadows offer all the good things you'd want from the 1911 platform, while being far and away more reliable with the 9mm cartridge.

So, after getting a hold of a "dot" connector, I've settled on it being the best trigger option for me. Using all stock springs, with the quickie $.25 polish job using Flitz, q-tips, and an old Cotten t-shirt/rag I've ended up with a very nice (for a Glock) 4.5-5.0 pull. The "dot" connector indeed lands right between the stock 5.5lb connector and the 3.5lb ones in pull-weight, but feel-wise it feels a lot more like the 5.5 connector than the "mushier" feeling 3.5's. The "dot" connector has a shorter pull-length overall with a crisp break and short crisp reset compared to the 3.5 connector, it just loses about a 0.5-1.0lbs off the "wall" where it breaks vs. the 5.5 connector. I found that the "wall" with the 5.5 trigger was just heavy enough where I would pull shots left if I wasn't really concentrating, and that the 3.5 connector was just creepy/mushy enough where I'd pull shots left waiting for the break; the "dot" connector seems to be helping me to avoid those issues for the most part and looks like it's the "happy medium" I was looking for. So, turns out, I have made a few changes which make it slightly different from "bone stock": I changed out the sights, went to the "dot" connector, and added a Glock OEM extended mag release (part# 1981)... However none of these tweaks take it too far away from a box-stock G17 and it works well enough where the fault of any bad shooting squarely lands on the knucklehead pulling the trigger.

For me, as far as a Glock's trigger is concerned, guess I'm finally coming to terms with the fact that it's pretty much futile/pointless trying to eliminate/eradicate it's "Glock-ness" by noodling around with parts hoping/trying to make into what it will never be. I'm thinking it's better to just figure out what's working best as an individual shooter based on trying the simple and few available connector swaps and then deciding to live with it. Some guys may like the lighter pull of the 3.5/4.5 connectors without even noticing the added mush, while the heavier 5.0 ("dot" connector) or stock 5.5 connector might work for others. There's not a whole lot of choices, and maybe it's better that way. Things I've noticed though are through the "magic-parts-chasing"(JMHO here): (1) Reduced power striker-springs mean light-strikes unless one keeps a fairly fresh one installed and rolls their own with Federal Primers exclusively, and also resigns themselves to having their competition gun and carry/duty gun having vastly different triggers (IMHO carrying a Glock with reduced power striker-spring is pretty darn foolish; if it's iffy if it'll go "bang" every time, why the hell carry a Glock?). (2) They may be a few ounces lighter feeling, but heavier "competition" aka 6lb trigger-springs make the triggers feel like they're outrunning one's finger at or near the break point; live with it or live without it. (3) Reduced power firing pin block/plunger springs are hit or miss; they might take a bit of weight off the pull, and/or add hitches and snatches as the FPB lifter tab rolls into the hole created by the wimpy spring. I'm thinking Glocks are just "one size fits most"; there are a few connectors one can play around with to find what they like best, but that's about it, just get over it and shoot the sucker.

Shot a club IDPA match with it and think I'm fine with it just having changed out the sights (using the stock 5.5lb connector and all stock springs). Finished pretty well for the first time out after coming back to the Glock, just went a little too conservative speed-wise on the first couple stages until I got in the groove as usual (my bad habit, not the gun's fault). I'm now pretty much convinced that the added mushiness and creep from the lighter connectors is worse for my shooting than the heavier (but far more crisp) trigger. A friend has got a "dot" connector for me to try out which might land about perfect as it should be a hair lighter while just about as crisp, but I've come to the conclusion that it is what it is; pick one and practice...

Fixed.

Perfection. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3u6QboDjog