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ck1

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Everything posted by ck1

  1. Wow, sorry, that stinks that JP hasn’t gotten back to you... I looked up Quentin Defense, looks like pretty trick stuff for sure, but they don’t show a pic of inside your receiver... I’d be willing to bet their LRBHO is proprietary though and that might be your issue, if you feel like posting a pic of inside the top of the lower maybe we can help you troubleshoot it..? From what I can tell, I think JP might have licensed the Foxtrot Mike LRBHO design... Paul FM’s owner/designer has stated publicly that PWS, Wilson Combat (who of course made it trickier/more proprietary than it needs to be turning 1-piece into 3 w/ a couple roll pins ) and “a few other companies” have licensed their LRBHO design. I have the Foxtrot Mike, and the receiver’s LRBHO looks just like a JP GMR-15’s... Before I buy I’m hoping either FM or JP will let me know if my receiver is compatible with the JP stuff, but from comparing pics of each it looks like it should be GTG.
  2. Huh? That defeats the whole purpose of the new SS bolt? Sure it’s this one? https://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPBC-9SL-SP Says it “provides reliable last-round lock back with any compatible receiver...” What Receiver are you running?
  3. Cool, thanks for the responses guys! I’m looking forward to trying the short stroke thing out, just still on the fence... Honestly, I’m just happy to have a gun that runs, and haven’t been able to make a match in forever due to work/life, but I’ve got a good trigger in it and can already see how it could be a benefit because I can sometimes feel like I’m “waiting” on the gun to cycle, and feel like I’d prefer it to cycle faster... *That said (and this could probably be another topic): any reason I might NOT want to SS it to cycle faster, or does anyone prefer that..? *(I ask because years ago I went from shooting CZ/Glock pistols to a 9mm 1911 w/ like a 10lb recoil spring for a summer that felt like it cycled in slow motion, but I put up some of my fastest classifier times even though the gun felt slow AF...)
  4. So, I haven’t gotten into the short stroke game yet with my PCC, but since I’ve begun itching to play with my buffer setup to maybe improve recoil impulse characteristics and follow up shots, figure I might as well... Thing is, LRBHO works 100% in my gun and I wanna keep it that way (nothing to do with gaming, I know I don’t need it, just prefer it for a few reasons), and until recently SS + LRBHO was a no-go. From what I’ve found, looks like JP and Taccom both now make bolts that’ll support LRBHO with a short stroked system, anyone have any experience with these or know of any others..? They’re close in price so that’s not really a factor as far as the bolts (of course the JP is more $$$ lol ), but I’ll more than likely pair whichever one I go with to either Taccom’s new delayed blowback buffer setup or JP’s short stroke SCS setup. If they’re apples to apples, in the end the JP stuff ends up about $150-200 more, but that’s not a big deal if it’s worth it... so it’d be helpful if anyone could chime in if they have experience with either of these bolts with either of these buffer setups too..? One thing I did notice is that the Taccom bolt says it comes with spacers to short stroke a conventional buffer setup, which might be good to try out before I decide on which buffer setup I want to go with, and I also appreciate that the Taccom folks are regular contributors on here, but idk... Thanks. Edited to add: I don’t reload and generally shoot whatever brass-cased 9mm is cheapest in bulk at the given time (usually Blazer Brass or Magtech, 115gr more often than 124gr)... no idea what power factor I’m getting out of a 16” barrel, but guessing it’s middle of the road, above 130pf but not too hot...
  5. Yep. It’s a Strike Industries Oppressor over their Mini King 9mm Comp. While not apples to apples, the Foxtrot Mike comp/brake maybe functions 10% better honestly as a pure comp/brake compared to the Mini King Comp... But I already had the the Oppressor which I also use on my 5.56 AR and wanted to have the option to use it on the 9mm, and while attaching it is a penalty of 9oz at the worst part of the gun, it actually does what it’s supposed to do and acts as a blast/concussion forwarding device while still keeping most if not all of the comp/brake characteristics intact while quieting the gun... On the 5.56 it’s SO much less obnoxious to shoot indoors, on the 16” 9mm it has the same effect except it’s kind of amazing in that the 9mm gun sounds pretty much suppressed! I haven’t tried it yet, and I plan to, but I’d bet the set-up with subsonic 9mm ammo will more or less equal an honest to goodness suppressed 9mm shooting supersonic stuff as far as sound... it works for the 9 year old indoors that’s for sure lol!
  6. Hopefully they’ll get back quick, and hell yeah it’s better to get an email reply from the owner/designer rather than some plebe (looking at you Sig). Think it’s so cheap because the owner knows he’s on to something and is planning on us all beta testing what is soon to be commonplace: an AR-9 that just works. I will definitely recommend ponying up for a Hiperfire trigger though, so many guys get so many problems with PCC triggers, and the Hiperfire s#!t just works w/o bs sets off everything even crap, shoot matches with Tula if you want lol! Best of luck!
  7. I’d just shoot fm-products an email, they’re on it. I'm running their upper and lower AND their recommended 9mm buffer set-up: .308 spring + their 6.5oz buffer... runs like clockwork w/factory bargain FMJ like AE, Magtech, Blazer Brass, S&B, etc hear me now believe me later lol Think FM is on it. Not to get too weird, but reminds me of like 10 years ago when I showed up at a match with a CZ Shadow that the euros where running and everybody thought I was a fool, and went from middle of the pack to winning until 6 months later when everyone talking s#!t had a Shadow lol...
  8. Think they’re just not a known quantity yet? They’re definitely (from what I can see) making the 9mm lowers and uppers for PWS which costs double, and dude designed the Wilson Combat AR-9 whitch costs triple easily and isn’t as advanced... FM is making all kinds of s#!t for Brownells from what I’ve experienced it’s a solid bet.
  9. Man, it’s probably GTG from what I’ve experienced... if you don’t dig the charging handle it’ll cost you $10 at worst... I’ve shot some Gucci ar-9 stuff and think these guys are finally on it... their lower is what’s actually the “belle of the ball” as they say, it’s awesome, though their BCG is something else too... better than most of the stuff we’ve all been playing with imho.
  10. I had to order the upper from OpticsPlanet because Primary Arms was out... I got one with the hinged “old style “ charging handle which isn’t optimal if you’re 6’2 on the 15” rail lol, emailed fm-products and I’ll be sending them a $10 check to get the newer smaller charging handle set-up. FWIW, FM got back to me so fast I have no idea how I stomached fighting with Sig over springs for my pump action MPX lol
  11. I’ve been running a Foxtrot Mike (FM Products) 16” FM-9 I put together for a few weeks now, and it’s honestly incredible for what it cost to put together using all their stuff w/ BCM furniture (thinking I’ve got maybe $600 into it w/o counting my Hiperfire trigger and optic). My 9 year old who’s never shot a rifle-length gun besides an BB/pellet gun was regularly tearing out 50-cent piece sized holes at 20yrds today on his first time out! (The blast and concussion of my 5.56 AR is scary to him even though it’s dialed and the recoil is probably less, that said, I’m running a Strike Industries 9mm “mini king comp” and their Oppressor over it which I do at indoor ranges, I run their J-Comp on my 556 which does basically what my Lantac Dragon did for like $30 bucks, and it actually sounds like it’s suppressed it’s so quiet, the 9 not the 556, on the 556 the Oppressor just makes people hate you much less indoors lol) I’ve shot a couple different tricked out JP’s and a trick MBX, and unfortunately spent a little time with an MPX that wouldn’t run reliably... I put together the FM honestly to just get my feet wet before fully diving into JP and that kind of money, but so far the FM hasn’t given me a reason to do anything other than buy more ammo; it’s been 100% malfunction free (and even locks back every single time on every mag if you care). With my little guy learning on it, I actually do appreciate the LRBHO for clearing and safety reasons...
  12. Can’t believe it hasn’t been mentioned yet: the Foxtrot Mike/FM Products FM-9 BCG absolutely slays! Has an S7 tool steel extractor and other semi “Gucci” design traits that you normally won’t find on some at 2x+ the money... (and FWIW also plays perfectly with Hiperfire 24-series triggers, which someone mentioned earlier and I totally co-sign, due to their awesomeness in pull weight/feel w/ a harder hammer/primer strike too, sets off everything). Actually can’t say enough good things about the FM Products stuff I’ve tried thus far... their lower and patented LRBHO is probably the best design out there currently imho... Good read if you’ve got a minute, the owner talks about some of his impressive affiliations w/ Wilson Combat and PWS: https://www.arbuildjunkie.com/fm-products-fm-9-ppc-overview-with-paul-noonan/
  13. If anyone feels awkward about shooting your boring, obsolete Shadow 1 after you score a Shadow 2, please donate them to me and I'll provide them a good home and lots of ammo to eat ;-)
  14. I don't think it's really about the firing pin channel when it comes to the "FPB in the SP-01 vs no-FPB Shadow thing", it's about how the FPB/lifter interacts/functions, and how the shorter CGW lifter works with the reworked CGW firing pin is a smart bit of "re-engineering magic" IMO. In an FPB-equipped SP-01 the trigger pull has to first deactivate the FPB before the sear can break (which also means an inherently longer trigger-reset as the action doesn't really reset until it's also reset the FPB when letting the trigger out), since a non-FPB Shadow doesn't deactivate/activate a FPB, it ends up nicer/shorter... That's why I think CGW's SRS-1/2 (w/ the magic shorter lifter and firing pin you install) is so cool; it vastly changes the "timing" of how an SP-01 deactivates the FPB, to where it's pretty much inperceivable and feels like it's just breaking the sear like in a non-FPB Shadow, and then for it's next trick, it allows one to reset the action in SA before reactivating the FPB if you want to ride the trigger: so the SA pulls and trigger-reset end up nearly identical to a Shadow's (within 1-3mm assuming you drop in the T-2 disconnector too). Muy bueno. An SP-01 in the hands of a good shooter is not at a disadvantage at all really, but if one wants to trulls be a "trigger snob" and make an SP-01 as Shadow-like as possible, IMHO the SRS-1/2 + T2 dissy is the way.
  15. Do it yourself IMHO, it's pretty easy if you're at all mechanically inclined, just get the Hammer Pin Punch and don't lose the microscopic FPB-lifter spring (ask me how I know LOL).
  16. The Cajun SRS-1 is really the only game in town for non-Shadow/Pre-B CZ's w/ the FPB... the FPB lifter and unique "low-lift" firing pin is real genius as far as fixing the FPB-gun's shortcomings...
  17. Since the FPB has gotta stay, the Cajun kit is probably the best way to go to get the most out of it... should deliver a trigger-reset within a couple mm's of a Shadow's. I vote Dawson for sights, and would say head over to CZ Custom for +10% mag-springs and IMHO their "SOLID Firing Pin Retaining Pin" is a MUST if you're going to dry-fire a bunch (which you will LOL). Don't forget to snap up a 11lb and/or 10lb recoil spring, think stock is like 17lbs or something and is WAY over-sprung.
  18. Never mind: http://www.czub.cz/en/catalog/79-pistols-cz/PST/CZ_75_SP-01_SHADOW_LINE.aspx And: http://www.czub.cz/en/catalog/79-pistols-cz/PC/CZ_75_OMPACT_SHADOW_LINE.aspx When and when? Stu..?
  19. Looked over the draft of the new IDPA rule book briefly today, and noticed that if approved, maximum weight for SSP (and ESP) is 43oz w/ an empty mag (up from 39oz). This is good news for those of us who prefer/dig the standard Shadows with the rails, or have dealt with the hassle of trying to lighten one to 39oz in order to play IDPA. P.S. saw the "Shadow line" guns on CZC's site and wondering if there will be a railed "Shadow line" model coming, hopefully with the same slim safeties and original-85 Combat-style trigger..?
  20. Shot a steel match a couple days ago in quite literally a downpour... the K100 ran without a hitch and it got soaked! Even left it overnight in my range bag before I got a chance to clean it, no rust, no problems to speak of. Came in 5th overall against fully tricked 2011's and other race blasters (not to mention just plain better shooters), and I was way rusty as I hadn't made it to a single match in like 2 months... The gun made me look better than I probably should have (which is fine with me). One thing I noticed: I probably shot too slow and could have pushed it more, still getting used to how quick the K100 settles down and comes back on target, it does it so fast that I'm still not quite used to it and I almost hesitate a split-second before I fire.... weird. I'm not sure if it's the rotating barrel or what, but it's definitely cool.
  21. IMHO the transition will be easy and you've got nothing to worry about. I think the single Glock pull is way harder to manage than the two Shadow pulls. IMHO the Glock trigger is a very unique animal that in spite of it's simplicity, can make it tough to get the kind of "laser-beam" accuracy on-demand that most of us are after. It often goes unmentioned how tough it can be to truly get a perfect trigger pull every time with them, even after lots of rounds and lots of time. For targets that are at close range, it's just fine, but for me, on anything further out, or on targets that are small and require greater accuracy (i.e. 6" plate at 20yrds), getting a clean pull that doesn't upset the gun and fly a little left (or right for the southpaws) takes a lot, and can get frustrating. Due to the nice trigger, and maybe the added heft, I just tend to think the Shadow is just an easier gun for most mortals to shoot well accurately as while it's got two types of pulls to deal with, it's still a lot more forgiving than dealing with a single pull that can be tough to modulate perfectly every single time. People make too big of a deal about the "single type of pull vs. learning two types of pulls"; the DA pull is always over before you know it, and as long as you're thinking "front-sight, front-sigt, front-sight..." it takes care of itself. I like Glocks, and know it's the Indian and not the Arrow as they're quite mechanically accurate, but IMO, being able to make quarter-sized groups at will with a Shadow is just far easier for the human operating the trigger.
  22. DA is about 7-8lbs, and smooth without any hitches. If you've ever felt a Beretta 92 or any Sigs, expect to be impressed, it's far better. IMO it feels about the same or better than a broken-in CZC Shadow Custom's (so pretty darn good). Other than slicked-up wheel guns, the only DA that I've ever sampled in a semi-auto that really beats it is a Shadow Custom with a Cajun Gun Works' Ultra-Lite kit and 8.5lb or 11.5lb hammer-spring installed (but that recipe means Federal Primers ONLY or no bueno).
  23. Robby, thanks man. Just to put it out there: while I was getting frustrated trying to track down the problem I was experiencing, it's worth mentioning that part of the problem is I seem to be the first guy with a K100 and an internet connection to mention anything... that tells me that there hasn't been very many issues, which is actually a good thing as gun-owners with problematic pistols tend to cry loudly (takes one to know one). Secondly, and maybe more relevant, I don't necessarily see the fact that the K100 firing pin gets beat-up during lots of dry-fire as a design flaw or deal-breaker by any stretch... The same type of thing has been a known issue with many CZ guns for years, and I don't have a problem living with it now that I know better. Here's why: all machines break, and pretty much every gun design in the known world has an aspect to it's design that will allow damage to occur to it in unfamiliar hands, or something about it's design that when subjectively judged could be considered to be a "flaw" (i.e. drop the slide over and over on an empty-chambered 1911 and it will start to hammer-follow sooner or later, a right-handed shooter who uses a modern "thumbs-forward" grip on a Sig can de-cock the hammer inadvertently, if a Glock's recoil-spring becomes weaker than it's firing-pin-spring they sometimes blow-up, etc). The issue has been uncovered, the solution is easy (check your K100's roll-pin if you dry-fire excessively, as apparently I do), and parts even already exist (albeit originally intended for CZ's) to make it a non-issue. So no big deal as far as I'm concerned. Many gun-owners tend to become fans of their favorite brands and will no doubt cite the dry-fire/roll-pin issue as a reason as to why the K100 isn't as awesome as their Glock/H&K/Sig/whatever... I feel like "who cares?", because those guys can go drop $300+ on trigger-jobs, and their triggers will still suck balls next to an out-of-the-box K100. I hope anyone looking into a Grand Power K100 who may happen to stumble upon this thread reads enough of it to figure out that I'm still a huge fan them despite running into a problem, and that I would put one up against any other gun at whatever cost when it comes to performance. Separate from the positive experience I had communicating with Grand Power over the roll-pin problem, the designer/owner himself had returned an email about a question I had sent them a while back before I had even bought one... so it's safe to say they've got the right idea when it come to Customer Service. IMHO, Grand Power's design is kick-ass, period. Now that they're being offered at a lower price-point, they are going to get more looks from the unfamiliar. Having owned some of the best blasters available, I have to agree that the guns may very well be THE best value out there.
  24. No, but if you're talking about a small-frame Tanfo, I bet if you added the notch/hole in the front it would work (used to have one and the mags were just like CZ mags).
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