FF1063

Kimbers are not series 80. I pulled the block out of the slide and the plunger out of the frame on my Target II 9mm about 18 months ago. No problems.

My 9mm Kimber Target II needed a new extractor, but once I replace that it has been flawless. It will feed any bullet shape and handles reduced loads too. I was planning on getting a couple WC mags, but the stock Kimber mags have been fine. (I like flush fit mag's) No sign of nose diving or other problems, and it likes my handloads. With the right bullets (XTP, Win JHP, Speer TMJ), it's incredibly accurate. I've never been a big Kimber fan, I was very disappointed with a Kimber rimfire rifle, but this pistol has become my favorite handgun.

I've switched to 100% synthetic motor oil, gives a smoother feel to a stainless 1911. Seems to last longer than FP-10. I use 5W-30 so it starts those cold winter mornings. (went looking for Mobil 1 30W, but Pennzoil 5W-30 was on sale for half the price)

I didn't get the memo and have been happily reloading my 9mm CBC brass over and over. Running smoothly in my Kimber Target II. I buy Mag Tec ammo to get more.

Twist the spring as you pull it off. That loosens the grip the spring has on the rod. You need a bushing wrench to deal with with the Gillette (lol) plug. Or swap the whole shebang for GI recoil parts. My 9mm 1911 (Kimber) will run factory ammo or full power handloads with either the 12 pound stock or a 13 pound variable spring from Wolff. My lighter loads need the 12 pounder to function 100%. I would prolly move the front sight a bit to the left first before moving the rear. The rear sight might have hidden set screws, remove the elevation screw and lift the sight body, loosen the set screws, then tap with brass or aluminum.

I was looking for a more traditional FMJ shape, but those RMR 124 Truncated Cone Flat Point MatchWinners look interesting. Shape just like an XTP or other modern JHP. Look at the pic's, never seen a jacket so thick.

Thanks for the suggestions, I keep forgetting about PD and RMR. My local Fleet & Farm has Speer 124 TMJ's on hand, but it's almost $80 for 600 plus 6-1/2% tax.

Coated are great, but for this project I want a jacketed 124/125 to match up with my 124 XTP load. I'll check out PD, can't afford gold bullets.

Shooting a 9mm 1911. After a lot of experimenting, I'm getting great groups at 25 and 50 yards with 124 XTPs and 115 Win JHP's. I would like to put together some 124/125 grain FMJ or TMJ loads with 50 yard accuracy in mind. Anyone come across a 124/125 FMJ or TMJ that has been exceptionally accurate? In 357, the Speer 125 TMJ has been very good, anyone try the 9mm Speer 125 TMJ? I see Lapua makes a 123 grain FMJ, but dang, 22¢ apiece? Hornady? I know, every gun is different, but there's bound to be trends in accuracy, like the XTP is always a good bet. Any good bets for a FMJ???

I improved my trigger pull a great deal just by stoning the internals and not touching the sear or hammer. A little lighter in pull, but more importantly it's consistent and predictable now. All traces of creep went away.

Not a problem, thanks gents, I think I'll leave the gun alone and try a different brand of magazine, it's a good excuse to buy another.

With no mag in the gun they eject fine, so I don't think the tension is too light.

Relatively new Kimber ST2 9mm. After a lot of feeding and ejection issues, I replaced the original FPS and extractor with an EGW FPS and Ed Brown extractor. That funny plastic block under the rear sight didn't make it back into the pistol. Kinda' proud of myself for fitting the new extractor. Light tension, slight deflection and I reduced the hook depth to match the grooves on my brass. Now it runs 100%. Feeds smoothly and ejects cleanly except for the last round of the mag which tends to just dribble out of the gun with lighter loads. With no mag in place, rounds eject perfectly, about 6' away at 4 o'clock, just like normal. Starting to think the last round is being knocked off the extractor by the magazine follower. It's a plain Kimber 9 round mag with a flat metal follower. Could that flat leading edge of the follower be causing my trouble? Anyone else have last round trouble with that type of mag? Looking to buy another mag, are there any really good flush fitting mags? Or should I just get a top quality 10 rounder for best reliability?

The firing pin stop (FPS) is what holds the extractor in position. If it is too loose it can allow the extractor to twist in its channel (clocking), causing feeding and/or extraction issues. That can be an issue even with a properly tensioned extractor. Modern Kimbers, anything with a 2 in the name like my Target II, has the Schwartz firing pin safety and requires an extractor cut for that, or you can remove the firing pin safety from the slide (it's under the rear sight). Mine is strictly a range/fun gun, so I removed the safety and spring. Then it will take any series 70 or 80 extractor. The FPS can be either 70 or 80, as long as it's 9mm/38 FPS. A small vice came in very handy, as did a cheap set of needle files. I bought blued parts even though my gun is stainless.

I have a new Kimber 9mm Target II with the same issue, no extractor tension at all. The firing pin stop on mine was also poorly fitted, loose in all dimensions, adding to the extractor issue. I fitted a new Ed Brown extractor and firing pin stop myself (I'm no gunsmith) by following directions I found on YouTube and the link above. Now my Kimber runs like a champ.

I've seen a lot of references for the use of magnum primers with HS-6 and other slow powders in 9mm for more consistent ignition. Also a lot of .38 Super recipes call for magnum primers. Some magnum primers like Rem 5-1/2's are supposed to have identical power to their 1-1/2's. The 5-1/2's just use thicker cups to protect against pierced primers in hot loads.

There's usually a reason for such things If you manage to come up with loads for it in all three cartridges you're going to wind up with three (or at least two) that aren't really so great. R, Yeah, I know, it's just odd, plenty of data for Titegroup w/147's which seems like it should be too fast of a powder for the application. SR 7625 should be just right as far as burn rate, but I really don't want to start experimenting 'off the charts'. I guess I'll probably end up supplementing the SR 7625 with Titegroup for the 147 grain target loads, don't load them that often anyway.

'Can you get it really cheap?' It is readily available and cheap. 'Why this powder?' It appears to be optimal for my .38 Super 125/130 loads to 1,300 fps and my .38 Spl 158 lead loads.(my two main loads) It has good loading density, meters well, it's single base for reduced smoke/leading. 'Do you have shit loads?' No. 'For 38Super, Special and 45ACP, I can think of many that will work' Titegroup is too fast and too hot for some of my applications, VV powders are as rare as hen's teeth. Solo and Clays are too fast, Clays does not meter well. WSF and WST are good candidates. Saving time by not needing to change powder in the measure is a factor. I like to switch calibers often and use the powder measure on my turret press in between dies. Changing powders is time consuming. It would save me money by having fewer powders on hand is another reason.

Title says it all. I'm trying to use just SR 7625 as my one powder for .38 Super, .38 Special and .45acp. I've found data for everything except 147 grain bullets in .38 Super. I'm looking for a starting point. I've checked IMR website, Hodgdon data, all my loadbooks, IPSC data, Google and am at wits end. Anyone have a clue?

Two best bullets for me in a Glock 17L and a Baer .38 Super have been Remington's 147 grain FMJ 'match' and Hornady's .356" 125 grain HAP.

HK45 non-competitively. I shoot H&K because I get so dang frustrated with other brands that are unreliable or inaccurate or both. Love 1911's, but for a trouble free, combat accurate .45, you can't beat H&K

Xrunner is right, they are made in batches of about 2,500 along with the 24/24C. I've never seen one in western WI or eastern MN, I had to order mine. Gunbroker has a few up for sale. I paid $625 new in 2004.

When you use a light recoil spring, you have to use a light striker spring as well, otherwise the trigger bar will pull the slide out of battery slightly when the trigger is pulled. http://www.custom-glock.com/springtech.html

For accuracy I start with the 125 grain, .356" Hornady HAP bullet. It's an XTP without the last two nose forming operations (cheaper than XTPs). Enough Titegroup to reach 1,100 fps.

This is great! I was thinking of ordering some Rainier plated .357" 140 grain flat points as an all purpose bullet for .357 magnum, .38 Super and maybe 9mm. Time to experiment. The 130 grain, .356" plated round nose work great in 9mm (Glock 17L), but show gas blow by (soot in the barrel) in my .357 mag. FWIW, I load my plated and jacketed bullets with just two dies, sizing and competition seater. No flair, no crimp and I no longer use the FCD. I get better accuracy, and the brass gets worked less. Also bullet tension is increased by not using flair. I used to have to crimp my Super loads when I flared the case mouths to prevent bullet set back. Not flaring seems to give a natural tension.