shred

I did a CZ S2 with a non-carbide Clymer throater and it worked, but it was tedious and the reamer took a beating. I had to regrind the pilot to the CZ land diameter so it would even fit, so in toto, one star, would not recommend. Most SAAMI 9x19 reamers will fix the short throat if you can rent one or find a gunsmith with a carbide reamer and are careful not to enlarge the chamber while you're at it. You may need a smaller pilot if it's a piloted reamer. If you don't have a nearby smith or the inclination to do it for the education of it, you may just want to send it to someone that does CZ barrel reaming as they've got the tooling, setup and know how to do them efficiently.

Why should every other club match have to paint because of your issue? Wouldn't it be easier for the match to say "paint every 4 shooters" themselves? That said I like painting between shooters, but most don't want to bother and I'd rather have matches with no painting than no matches.

US IPSC Nats last weekend had a weak-hand-only gun-in-box start. Couldn't even touch the pistol strong hand to pick it up. That sort of thing is way more common in IPSC than USPSA.

Edges in 9mm aren't super common (vast majority were in .40) but they're out there. I like mine for LO, although I may go with a lighter slide next time around.

Most likely the problem is going to come from the contour of the grip at the mag catch side. Many newer ones are thicker there because the old metal copies of plastic grips would crack there. Too thick and the right-side mechanism won't work well.

There's a pic rail cut into where you normally tap for the scope mount. You could weld that up or silver solder a plate over it or something if you wanted, but it adds work.

Nice. Don't be afraid of the crimp!

Ehh. we had a lot of casual shooters at the A4 SC a couple months ago, and some ROs that thought telling people to move on Showdown might be coaching... those two need WSBs, the other can just be "shoot P1-P4 in any order, then SP"

I asked Troy at NROI before I RM-ed the A4 Steel Match but there weren't any (supposedly that's in process of being fixed), so I made my own basic versions.

I use a lot of 231 in 9mm, although mostly with 125gr jacketed bullets. For 147's I'd just pick a lead bullet starting load that looks about right, see where it chronos and adjust from there.

I think you'd still have to get rid of the rib situation on Tanfo large frame mags. That's a big PITA and I've not had good luck with the MBX C/T tubes.

This. Find a pistol you can use with a regular old STI grip and install that. Most 2011s will, and I'm pretty sure you can swap one directly onto a Prodigy. Used to be they were ~$100, but have gone up lately. Your other option is a SV grip which has an ambi release.

You wouldn't believe some of the "gunsmithing" and "light polishing" I've seen

Worse than an early factory Girsan 2311 would be an epic fail...

Not really. Plated and Jacketed bullets are quite different, and plated is the poor cousin. FMJ's with a covered base usually have a gas-check like thing, not plating. Barrel life is probably at least twice as good with coated although they are a tad dirtier. Precision Bullets is the original 'black bullet', out of Texas. Closed up shop a couple years ago IIRC. Good bullets. The owner used to do a demo where he'd cut into the base and hit the bullet with a propane torch and all the lead would run out the cut, leaving the coating shell intact behind.

That's a cool way to do it. We have a trailer with everything on it for steel, but it just sits out in the weather between matches.

This. Closed base means less vaporized lead deposits in the comp (and air) and they are generally more accurate-- bearing surface, tail-bias to the weight, care in manufacture, less inconsistency in the core, whatever it takes. You can get closed-base FMJ designs as well, but the cost is similar. Some places don't like JHPs though, so you have to use them or other alternatives like MGs IFP.

Most coated bullets these days aren't hard-cast (or not very), which is not a bad thing. There's no need to be if the coating is any good and they obturate better and are cheaper to make. Plated bullets used to have a reputation for being inaccurate because they were plated over hard-cast and wouldn't swage to the rifling as well. Bottom line is if you shoot Open, the vast majority of serious competitors shoot JHP or similar closed-back bullets for the low-gunk and accuracy factors. Plated and coated are sub-optimal in Open although some people do shoot them. The barrel is probably going to last maybe 50-70K rounds with jacketed, but that's a tiny cost all-up. PD JHPs are under $100/K in quantity. For other divisions, coated works fine and barrels will last nearly forever. I know a guy that put 180K Precision Bullets coated through his Limited gun on one barrel and it still shoots well.

I wouldn't be sanding in there unless you know exactly what you're doing, and from the current posts, it doesn't seem so. It's unlikely to be the problem and it's easy to take off too much there and wipe .005 or .010" off your lockup. It's pretty common to see marks there and impossible to tell if it's a little or a lot from a picture. Find where it feels rough one piece at a time. Start with just a bare slide on the frame and slide that back and forth and see, then work up, adding one thing at a time--barrel, then recoil system and find out where the 'grit' feel is coming from, then decide what to do about it, rather than blindly filing and sanding and polishing on things. Also, those are usually called "slide lugs", not "locks" if you've not hit that term before.

Yeah, somebody like Stoeger can get away with it out to 15+ yards because he's done a million reps, but for normies, that's going to get sub-optimal results. Try setting up a target at 3-5 yards and do pseudo-bill drills or doubles on it. Do a string or two, using one confirmation, tape and check times, do it again with the next confirmation type, tape and compare times and hits, do it again with the third, tape and compare times and hits. Then move the target back to 7, 10, 15 yards and compare

Yeah, if it was just a timer and a simple no-login app to set settings and record shots, that would probably increase sales tremendously.

"What are you in for?" "handling a snapcap in the safety area".

You may want to try looking at this from a different angle-- Always pick out a small spot on the target. THEN... you have several options for 'acceptable sight picture' (aka "confirmation" or "type"), ranging from 'any red anywhere and mash the trigger' on a close, wide-open target to 'dot somewhere in the vicinity of my spot' to 'dot stopped solidly on my spot and a smooth trigger press' on a hard partial. Choose which of those to use based on the difficulty of the shot. Sort out what works for you with lots of experimentation in live and dry fire.

Mine just seems to keep trucking along offline or not. I'd rather not go through that account rigmarole though since it seems somewhere between pointless and intrusive.

That's weird.. I make setting changes with no internet connection.