cletus9mm

+1 with high power jack. if the impact was that far off my first guess is you guys are opposite handed. i'm left handed but shoot right handed. if i switch back to my left hand being my strong hand and use my left eye (recessive), then my hits are off. sight it in for yourself on a relaxed shooting day.

another vote for the ced 7000. simple with perfect features.

Odd? I suppose that's one way to put it. It was so hard to stop though! After seeing the puffs of dirt walking closer and closer to the steel was addictive. Waste of ammo that could have been used more constructively? Absolutely. It was fun to try though.

Now that's ambitious! I've tried a few hundred rounds at just over 500 yards in soft dirt where I can spot my shots and had no luck making the steel sing. Got close enough for ooohs and aaahs but ultimately no joy. Good luck though!

I shoot a cz tactical sport and its unlike just about every other pistol I've looked at with regard to sight picture. The rear sight is very gappy. Like small canyon gappy and the front sight is very narrow. I'll make measurements when I get home. It's so exaggerated that the first time you get a sight picture you'll wonder if you'll like it or not. What I'm driving at is that I like it a lot. Your eyes will naturally want to center the front sight. My vote is go with a more narrow front. I seriously doubt you'll have regret. well, i measured the front and rear sight on the tactical sport and the rear measures at .165" and the front at .095" so the front isnt all that skinny but the rear sight is larger than most. the combo works well for me though.

good luck with smokey! got two books that i'm looking forward to learning from. remi also sends her best.

im 30 now and started shooting seriously about 4 years ago. i consider myself better than average but i'm yet to be classified so i really have no way to rate myself accurately against other shooters. the place i shoot most often has a 72 (i think) year old shooter that i'm pretty certain said started shooting when he was 50. he mops my a** up on a regular basis. i love it and hate it at the same time. he has so much fun shooting its great. never too late. if you enjoy it, do as much of it as you can.

+1.

you are correct. i was mistaken. my vv manual actually does have a load for 180 ltc. i overlooked it only looking at the hp load data which starts with n340. interesting enough though, the vv manual has a starting load of 3.5grs and a max of 4.1grs?! the sierra manual has a starting load of 4.1grs with a max of 5.2grs. i wonder if they have a different means of pressure testing in finland vs here in the states.

i have quite a few reloading manuals including the newest edition of the vv manual. the only manual i have that publishes an n-320 load in .40 for a 180 grain bullet is my sierra manual. it is sierra 5th edition. it shows a starting load of 4.1 grains for 850 fps and a max published load of 5.2 grains for a 1000 fps which very comfortably makes major. they're specifying this load for 180 gr jhp loaded to a C.O.A.L. of 1.125 "sierra rifle and handgun reloading data 5th edition, page 775." regards, joe

the 11th of this month at bristol wisconsin. a little bit of a hike but not too bad. not uspsa sanctioned, but plenty fun. good people there, and skill levels that range from beginner to pretty darn good.

thats fantastic! i know the exact gun you're talking about which makes the story that much sweeter. it was inaccurate and had just enough power to make it worth shooting the bb instead of throwing it. luck was certainly on your side and i think this story takes the cake for me! nice shooting.

nicely done!

humility

live

cant speak for insanity, but i did do p90x. i recommend it without question. i lost 46 pounds on the plan. followed everything to a t. went from 213 lbs to 167. then i put almost all of it back on in the following 9 months by doing absolutely no exercise and eating whatever i felt like based on what i know from the programs i would do the fit test for p90x to see if you're ready for it by their standards. if you're don't pass their standards or come close i would say do p90x. if you blow the p90x fit test out of the water then chances are you've got options. if you devote yourself to either program i'm confident you will be in the best shape of your life, but to do insanity and take full advantage of it, you've got to start out pretty fit. i suppose the same could be said for p90x but to a lesser extent. good luck and i wish you all the will power you can hope for.

mobil 1 racing 4t 10w40 motorcycle oil. recommended from another forum. 10 bucks buys a quart that should last a helluva long time.

everything

Nothing

cities around me got shut down for 20-24"! the day off was amazing. i did nothing productive at all. if we shut down here for 3" of snow i'd be broke!

grip tape on my ss 1911. love it.

cz tactical sport 9mm i've shot off bags at 25-27 yards and the 5 shot group was just outside an inch. four of the five were touching with one uncalled flier. if you're shooting 2" thats super solid for an xd imo. much more accuracy than is needed for most every discipline.

The lucky idiot who did it was the me. Even a blind squriel finds a nut! My avatar is the pistol. I can hit a 10 steel plate 5 out of 6 times or better (regularly) with my single six at 100 yards. 10 inch steel plate that is! (off a rest) Welcome to the forum buddy!

Springs - Same Firing Pin stop geometry - GI one is loose hammers and struts - same MS caps - same slide weights - both stock full round top non-lightened slides (GI carbon steel, DW stainless), haven't measured slide weights to verify The GI has a Ti firing pin, don't know DW firing pin material A friend recently had his Les Baer NP3 coated and he thought the gun felt relatively sluggish afterwards. NP3 has a measureable thickness like any other electroless nickel Teflon finish. you say that your firing pin stop is loose on your GI. i believe the question about the fps was geometry. i believe what was meant by this is the shape of the fps or radius on the bottom comparing one gun to the next. some 1911's have almost a squared off fps and some have quite the radius. the action of the slide/fps rolling over the hammer really has a pronounced effect on the feel of a 1911. if one is almost square and the other has a big radius i would guess that the difference you are feeling is from this area and not so much the slide to frame fit.

Its hard to put back metal where there is none. I'm pricing out parts for a build, and spec'd out mostly wilson parts and have over 600 dollars in parts. Throwing 500 bucks at a 550 dollar gun most of the time equals a 1000 dollar gun. Not a 2000+ gun. Start out with junk and end up with junk. It is really hard to do it the other way around in a cost effective manner IMHO. sorry for the drift but i'm going to have to agree with the basic premise of gigo. garabe in garbage out. im using garbage as a very relative term here but for discussion sake this is the acronym that i'm going to use. taking a gun with a relatively loose slide to frame fit and then having parts installed by someone who is an expert will most certainly make a gun easier to shoot well because of mechanical accuracy and ease of use. if you have the tools/ability to take a host weapon like a GI and install parts on it that allow it to function like a more expensive weapon than the money you have into it, then you certainly have more talent and time than i have. 500 dollar gun and 500 dollars in higher quality parts does not rival a gun that is custom fit piece by piece from the ground up. smiths use an oversize slide and frame to start out with for a reason. the reason is their finished product is of higher quality. you simply cannot have an equivalent when you start out from the very beginning of a build with a lesser slide to frame fit. can you make the fit better? absolutely you can. if you're going to do this work yourself you can probably even make it worthwhile. peening the slide/frame or adding accurails, or welding will make the fit better, but peened guns spring back and eventually end up "loose" again. "tight" guns will do the same over time but certainly hold their dimensions better than a gun that peened or otherwise modified. all of this is assuming you have the ability to do these upgrades on your own. if you have to pay a smith to do it, my guess is it will be cheaper for him and his customer in the long haul to start out with oversized frame and slide. will the 1250 or "x" dollar gun rival the 2000+ dollar gun in accuracy? im certain it could come close. would the feel of the trigger be as nice? most likely yes. could i justify the extra expense? maybe, maybe not. i know with certainty that i could not call the two rivals. i understand that california has restrictions that make it difficult when building something custom but imo the end game of a build can only be as good as the pieces used from the beginning.