cletus9mm

http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=206960 In my opinion. This is one of the best places to start. Tons of material to get through and they have some DVD references in the post.

i'm a proud oddball. left handed but right eye dominant. like most lefties i do a few things with my right hand. i throw frisbee with my right and i shoot bow right handed. when i grew up i learned to shoot bow right handed in boy scouts because they didn't have any left handed bows as i grew older i found out my left eye is very slightly lazy. it is not and cannot be corrected to 20/20. my right eye on the other hand is slightly better than 20/20. this is what prompted my switch with pistol first, and then with rifle. i knew i was never going to be as good as i could be if i was shooting with my lazy eye so i saw little choice for myself. to make the switch i started off by buying a right handed holster. every single day i wore that holster with a gun in it for at least two months. i drew the gun and pointed it at various objects around my house to practice the feel of it and get used to the new sight picture. after about a month it became really comfortable. it was frustrating at first but you can definately get used to going lefty with enough practice. borrow or buy a lefty holster if you can and practice practice practice. if you find you hate it, it's a really easy switch back. much luck.

i really need those over my reloading bench

i have two different screws. one kind is carbon steel, and the other is stainless steel. not sure if it's the same kind of stainless or not. they are 3/8ths long though so they need file work. the hardest part is going to be getting the finished screw to be the same texture as your frame. good luck with your search

i just tried to find my post using the search and also had no luck. i really suck at using the search option. i have much better luck using google and then typing ",brianenos" after my question. you are in luck though as it is on the second page of general gunsmithing.

excellent question! i posted the exact same one a few weeks ago! i had numerous suggestions given to me and i chose the same route you are trying to take. i don't think you will find any flat screws because the headless screws that you're looking for are set screws. there are various "tips" that mcmaster carries but they are all designed to stop a part from rotating or moving and a flat surface wouldn't serve that purpose very well. i filed the set screws down that i had and it ended up much more square to the frame than i had hoped. my gun is blued and i just used cold blue on the screws after filing them down to an appropriate length. mcmaster only carries them in 100 packs. if you pm me your address i'll ship you two different kinds free of charge via the usps. i'll never go through 100 of these things so there is no sense in you ordering some. as far as keeping them in place i used blue loctite and they havn't moved yet but i only have a few hundred rounds through since the modification. any more questions please ask. i'll do my best to help.

fwiw my good friend has an xd 9mm and last weekend the slide failed to lock back with a few rws factory rounds from walmart. i tried some of my handloaded ammo with hp-38 and the slide locked back every time. gonna have to go with everyone else on this one and say tip your powder measure a bit more. not sure how many rounds you have through the gun but if your round count is low, shoot a few hundred rounds with more powder for breakin. then step it back down to what you're using now if you like the way it feels. after breaking in a bit it may start running with the lighter load.

+1 to the above posts. every mfg i've bought at least a few case mouths were out of round and were in certain need of a resize. i like many others here load on a 550 and it's become a very mechanical process. trying to bypass the first station would throw my loading technique to the wind which for me would be more confusing than it's worth.

title says it all. many gunsmiths talk about and or guarantee a certain tolerance for a slide to frame fit. how do the gunsmiths building these firearms measure this fit? when a smith guarantees a fit of say .001, is this tolerance .001th per side or is it a total for the both sides meaning that each side has a tolerance of .0005? i would like to measure how much vertical and horizontal play one of my newer 1911's has and measure it again once there are a few thousand rounds on it to see how much it is wearing over time. not sure if this qualifies as "general gunsmithing" but i figure someone on here knows. thank you all for your time and ideas.

First off glad You are okay. Secondly thank you for taking the time to remind me of how important safety is when reloading. I wind up watching a video like this and it snaps me out of my complacency. I believe videos like this keep us all a little more in tune with our techniques when we are at the bench for our next reloading session.

when i first started loading i was super anal retentive about all aspects of it. i went so far as to clean the primer pockets of every pistol round before i reloaded it. the more rounds i loaded the "lazier" i got about paying attention to all the little details. i chrono'd my loads throughout becoming more lazy and did not notice any difference in es or sd. this lead to further laziness and now i don't sort headstamp. i try and spend as much time as i can shooting. even if you have some seriously nasty es and ed i can't see it making or breaking a match. a point or two possibly. i have no way to prove this, it's just my opinion. on the flip side of the coin i have a friend who does everything he can to load on the cheap. some of the "once fired" brass he has bought has been obnoxiously out of saami spec. it's caused him many headaches while shooting. not sure where i'm trying to go with all this but to try and keep it simple no i do not sort by headstamp but i rarely compete. if i did i might change my tune.

Bruce, Wow man. That's extremely kind of you to offer your time like that. I'm gonna try the set screw method first because the gun is by no means a showpiece. Its my "work" open gun. If however I hate the way it looks I may take you up on your offer. I don't expect you to donate your time for free though. If work gets sent your way ill make sure you're compensated somehow. Thank you again for the kind gesture, and Thanks for being a part of what makes this forum so great.

holy crap they they (tgo and nick) do that quick. thats what i thought, and thats the way i've been practicing, but thank you guys for confirming.

was just watching a youtube video of TGO and Nick Saiti doing 1 shot draws. my question is after a shooter lamr's does the shooter put the safety on before the gun is holstered? Are they taking the safety off during the draw and before the shot, or is the safety not on when they holster the gun. i ask because i've only done some unofficial action pistol shooting at bristol wisconsin. i'm fortunate enough to have a buddy with a farm so i can practice on a regular basis. i just want to practice the right way. if the safety is on or off, does the "rule" apply to all or some of the shooting disciplines ie steel, ipsc, idpa? thanks for the help!

just measured my serendipity c-c with a set of calipers and it's .750. if i did my conversion correctly i got 19.05mm c-c.

That sounds like the best idea yet glockcomma. Thanks a bunch for the input. How did you get the ends of the screws ground perfectly flat?

5-40 i believe. the screw idea with some green loctite is getting pretty appealing. its certainly in the budget and easily reversible. there are some 5-40 set screws that i found that steel1212 mentioned and i'm thinking that has potential to look decent too. i will grind those flush with the inside of the dust cover and leave the outside alone in case i ever think of spending the dime to get it welded up. how much did the welding set you back if i can ask?

yeah, i'm certainly no smith either but those two ideas came to me too. not sure if welding will disturb the tempering of the steel or not. silver solder came to mind, but that's not going to take cold blue. and i can't think of any screw that will wind up flush with the gun unless the holes are counter sunk. i could live with screws close to flush though, and i think that might be the cheapest most elegant solution. i suppose i'll start the hunt for screws.

if i were to change my cmore serendipity sight to a railway or slide ride and get a new one sided mount, is there a way to fill in the holes left on the ejection side of the gun? has anybody done this with enough success to make it look like holes were never drilled in the frame? the gun is currently blued and ideally i would like to end up cold blueing whatever fills in the holes. i know its asking a lot, but i'm hoping someone here as had this "problem" and fixed it with good/great results. thank you all for your time.

Are there any production or factory grips that are aggressive like what you guys are mentioning? I guess what I'm looking for is something that can be reversed if I ever wanted to sell the gun in question. I love the epoxy and silica idea for my glock but for some reason I just don't have the brass to spread silica and epoxy on it even though i know I would love the way it felt. I've seen pictures of race guns on this forum that look like they have a skateboard like tape all the way around. It looks factory to me though. Not like the stickers you can buy and put on for a glock. Ill try and find a pic and post it because I feel like I'm babbling.

Who makes it and where do I look for it. Thanks for your time

what is the most aggressive grip texture for a 1911/2011 platform? i want to know of a grip that would almost be offensive for someone to hold unless they worked with their hands for a living.

it's been far too long since i've gotten a reloading session in. 2 jobs keeping me busy plus holidays. quality problems i suppose. anyway i found some aa number 7 and it no longer leaks. i cleaned the spacer with alcohol and laid the top of the spacer on the sticky side of some heavy scotch tape. then i just cut around it with a xacto knife. both the spacer and the powder bar were within tolerance, but not by much. anyway, just wanted to say thanks again for all the help,and let you guys know all is well.

you guys are awesome. thanks for the tips and advice. once i have time to do some more loading i'll let you guys know what i find out.

when i reload 9mm using aa#7 the powder tends to trickle out in the area that the powder bar slides back and forth. has anybody else has this problem and do you have a fix??