bgary

yeah, at some point the challenge becomes finding a holster. I can easily bolt a section of rail to the dust cover of my open gun, but I don't know of a holster it would fit in. Not sure where to find a holster for a Glock with a flashlight under the rail, either...

So, here's my dilemma (and sorry for the newbie questions). I typically shoot "open", which means a red-dot on both my shotgun and pistol. I can easily put a light/laser combo on a piece of rail on the shotgun; don't need to change a thing. But the pistol is more interesting. The options are to -- figure out how to add a rail to an existing C-more mount -- pull the C-more off, and put light/laser on the mount (but have no red-dot) -- ditch the open gun and put a light/laser on an XD or something... I guess the question is..... for the night stuff, will I have any actual "need" for a red-dot as an aiming device or, assuming it is zero'd appropriately, is the laser the only thing I'll care about? B

For shots at "100-250".... will the targets be lit (visible)? Assuming so, will the light be enough for a typical reticle or will an illuminated reticle be useful?

afterthought - any advantage between red laser and green?

Cool, thanks! (I figured you were up to your eyeballs in things, hence the post here rather than bugging you personally....)

Couple of questions from a newbie who just came off the wait list -- What distances should I plan for with rifle? 0-200? 400? +++? -- is having light+laser on each gun an advantage or disadvantage (I'm thinking utility vs. weight)? -- will I need slugs? slings? any other tidbits? -- and, any other tips you might care to share.... Thanks!

Scott and Doug and Ken - thank you *so* much for a great match. Had to leave before getting a chance to shake your hands and thank you in person, but.... had a blast, great stages, great crew.... great job! Bruce

Does it stand on its own or do you have to have been a fan of the movie for it to make sense (I haven't seen the movie in .... years...)

I was in my local post office on a Saturday a couple of weeks back. The staff had posted home-made signs throughout the lobby saying that they had no stamps for sale and could not do retail transactions. The counter was fully staffed with people who were quite happy to say "no, I'm sorry, we can't [whatever] today as each customer came to the counter. I was only picking up a package, so I didn't care, but... after I left I started wondering whether it was some sort of intentional slowdown or strike-in-place? I mean.... I can't imagine that they were actually completely out of all denominations of stamps, and completely unable to weigh items and print postage. Huh.

totally agree. I met her at the Steel Challenge a couple of years back, she pretty much lights up whatever geography she's in.

welcome! There are USPSA (and other kinds of matches) both north and south of you. At the custer sportsmans' club (east of exit 270, the birch bay/lynden exit) on the 1st Sunday of every month, and at the Marysville club (west off exit 206, the smoky-point exit) on the third Sunday of every month. Come out and see what the game looks like - good folks to meet, too. Bruce

+1 - looks like a Hogue "overmolded" http://www.getgrip.com/main/overview/ar_15.html

^^^ yup

AICS is an expensive option and a *heavy* one. I got mine for the detachable mags and no-bedding home build, but... if I were to do it over again, I'd probably get a Manners T4A with their DBM, and been at just about the same price-point with a lighter, handier set-up.

I have an early Stag 3G upper... had been using it in open, now I'm kinda thinking tac-optics. So I reconfigured it a while back with a variable optic on top and a set of rail-mounted irons on the handguard. Works great, except... I can't keep the irons zero'd for anything. I was blaming the irons, but then I noticed that the barrel isn't centered in the handguard at the muzzle end. In fact, no matter how much I tighten the cap-screws that "lock" the tube onto its collar... it moves. Anyone had this kind of problem? Is there a fix? Or... is it a call to customer service at Stag (or Samson)? Thx...

I hate Tuesdays that feel like Mondays (posted in wrong section...sorry!)

My most accurate rifle (including the .308 bolt guns in the safe) is a JP-built .260 upper on an LR-308 lower. Just sayin'

trijicon 3-9x mildot (but testing out the Vortex 2.5-10x)

Ballista is okay. The Sierra Infinity program is available, too, but it sometimes seems to come up with different results than other good-quality programs (eg, JBM). I prefer "ballistic FTE" on an iPod at the range.

Glenn Beck's new book about the gun-control movement. Interesting reading - he does a good job of refuting the many arguments against guns, using, like, actual facts and quotes and stuff. Worth the 8 bucks or so (Kindle version).

okay, I think I have the fever, too. Where's the smart place to buy one of these?

There were actually two things: There was a "prohibition" on using Super loaded to major PF (175), unless the barrel was fully supported, and the bullets weighed at least 150 grains (143 for lead bullets). And there was a "prohibition" on using 9mm loaded to PF-175, unless the cartridge OAL was at least 1.250" It was worded like a ban, but as you say, it was effectively just weight/OAL requirements.

I've never had any sort of luck with bubble levels. What I do is set up the rifle in a rifle vise, level it, and then focus the scope using a bright orange plumb-line hanging 15 yards away. Has worked well for me. As a bonus, with a bolt gun I can also look through the bore to confirm - if the plumb-line is centered and aligned with the reticle, and it is *not* centered in the bore, something is out of whack and needs to be re-done.

I think (?) the question was more about sizing/shoulder set-back, not trim length. If that's the case... "it depends". If you are talking about a couple of thousandths (e.g., the case-head is a couple of thousandths below the lower step), it's not a huge deal. Will be hard on the brass - the brass at the neck is going to stretch when you fire it, because it will balloon to fill the extra space, but that's not a huge deal. It just means your brass won't last as long. If it is more than a few thousandths, bad things can start to happen. Potential for case-head separation, gas leakage, etc. Especially if the loading is at the upper end of the pressure range.

I took the plastic cover off, and drilled a hole in it so that I could get to the "pot" with a screwdriver. 5 minutes, $0.00, works great.