barney88pdc

I was in a local shop looking for some AR accessories for a gun I was building and saw they had 2 boxes of Barrett Factory 50 BMG ammo. I was running low and had a few extra dollars in my pocket so I picked them up. They guy checking me out I would guess about 22ish said "Man the 50 BMG is such an awesome round and has so much energy the bullet does not even have to hit you. If it passes close enough to you it can take your arm off!'" I was able to hold back the laughter but the grin on my face had to give me away. This is the same guy about a year earlier I walked in and they had a M82A1 CQ with the 20" barrel. I asked him if they could get one in the standard 29" length. His response was why not just by this one. It is way better. So I asked how is cutting off 9" of barrel and losing about 300 FPS on a long range rifle better? His response was it was a better CQB weapon and that you could get in and out of rooms and doorways with it. I let him know that no on in there right mind would room clear with a 50 BMG and me living in a non combat zone, nor being in the military (he was in the Marines) that CQB work was not part of my usualy activites. No real response. He tried to rattle off a few of the specs which were WRONG as per the Barrett Web Page. I was in the market at the time and had them memorized. Anyway pretty much turned me off to that shop and havent been back but a few times. He no longer works there. Second incident was at a gun shop in OK. I was around there for a job I was working on. I Googled local gun shops and a class 3 place poped up. So I had some time and went check it out. Had about 10-20 Class 3 items and not your everyday gun shop inventory. One piece was an AR platform IIRC in 6.8 SPC with a tag that said not for sale. I noticed that the scope on top "looked" like a Mark 4 Medium 3x10x40 but was a Leupold FAKE. At the time and it may still be on Leupold''s web page, they had posted that they were getting alot of returns to the factory that were Chinese copies. The article explained 3 dead give aways to check for to see if the scope was a real factory scope or a fake. 1 was no gold ring around the objective lens of the scope. Another was there was not a gold L emblem in the center of the parallex adjustment. And the serial # on the bottom of the scope under the adjustment knobs were not correct markings. I had bought a few scopes off the net and had check my guns to make sure I did not get hosed so I was familar with the checks. So I asked why was the gun not for sale was it on lay-a-way? He said the gun was his and he did not want to sell it. I then asked what kind of scope was on top. "LEUPOLD MARK 4 MRT" so I just said nicely "Ok thanks". Figured no reason to call him out in his own shop and bit my tongue but man I wanted to. My thinking was either A he really does not know that it IS a fake and if he got took on his OWN money and a product that he is in the business of selling then that does not give me much confidence in asking any questions about other products. Or B he really did know that it was a fake and LIED to me and I refuse to do business with people like that. So I just left. Here is the link: http://www.leupold.com/tactical/resources/...erfeit-warning/

Close their eyes or .... Slap the trigger with rifles, put their bugger hook past the first joint on the trigger on a long range bolt weapon, have a horrible stance or shooting position. Barely can run the bolt on a bolt action or seat a mag on a semiauto platform. Another favorite is them pushing new reticles such as a Mildot without so much as a clue on how to range estimate with it.

I knew it had to be something simple. THANKS!

You guys pushed me over the edge. I finally got out of the stone ages and went swich carriers to AT&T and got me and my wife an IPhone today. So far it is COOL. So far it is worth it. I hope I still feel the same after the new wears off but I really think I will. The company I work for has a corporate account with them which allows me to get the service at 20% off. So for $10 more a month I now have Nation wide with internet as opposed to my old school phone of just calls and text messages. Can't beat that. WOOT!

Ok I signed in just as I always do and now when I select a thread to view it shows the original post and that looks normal. Then below where all the responses would be it shows the responders screen name and only the first line of the response but it is hyperlinked. If you click on that then you can see their entire post but only by clicking on it and you cannont see all the other responses? It is VERY aggrevating. I did not change any settings or anything. And I even went in to My Controls to see if something got changed. Is anyone else having this issue? If not how do I fix it?

I shot 33 rounds yesterday and 27 rounds today all with the DT full power loads. Twice yesterday and twice today the slide locked open with rounds in the gun. Yesterday I was in a bit of a hurry so I just racked the slide and kept on going. But today I had a little more time and inspected what was going on. Both occasions the slide stop was engaged. So Chris I may have the same issue as you where I might need a new slide stop. I was looking around on Midway and they do not list a 10mm slide stop. Only 45 ACP, 9mm, 38 Super. Both slide stops this morning were after round 7 fired. Not sure if it was the same mag. (I know that would help). On the positive side I have not had a single failure to feed in all of those rounds. Only the 4 slide locks at inappropriate times. So I am thinking it has to be either the mag or the slide stop? I marked the mags 1 and 2 when I got home (I had done this but the ink came off when I cleaned them) so I can tell if this only happens with one mag. I did look at and feel the slide stop inside of the gun and it does seems to protude out some but I know that it has to in order for the follower to engage the stop for it to work. However, I not being a 1911 gunsmith I do not know if it is an excess amount. Well all of this has been somewhat aggrevating but I am learning and alot of the problems seem to have corrected themself. I WILL GET THIS GUN WORKING IT HAS BECOME A MISSION.

Can you even get an I phone with Verizon? I thought the I phone was an AT&T exclusive so wouldn't you have to switch carriers?

Range Report Loaded up my first Reloads of 10mm today. I was throwing 6.1gr of VV350 under a 180gr JHP MG, Starline brass, Wolf LP. They felt more like 40 than 10. I had a few failure to fires (Totally my fault I did notice that sometimes I would try to index the shellplate and it would drag. I would press the handle (550B) forward again and no more resistance). I was using a buddies press for the first time and did not have the feel for his press like I do mine. I did not want to adjust my dies that are set up for my STI so I just went over and used his press and extra set of dies. All of those loads went BANG on the second strike so I attribute that to primers that were not fully seated. The second problem we had were some failure to feeds but I would say 90% or more were the last round of the mag. The rounds would feed partially into the chamber but not the entire way. I would say the bullet was all the way in where we could not see it. So I think that it is possibly a mag issue even though these are the factory mags. I could be wrong on that but before the failure to feeds were happening at random intervals. The other thing that it think is more than likely is I think that the loads needed a little more crimp. I usually crimp a lil more but did not want to adjust his setup. I had loaded 300 rounds and on about the last 4 mags I started having the same as described above failure to feeds in the middle of the mag. I think we had about 3 or so. When I locked open the slide and I picked up the back of the round with my index finger to get the catrtage to allign in the chamber and I pushed in to the chamber with my finger it felt a little gritty so I think by this time the Match Chamber was just getting fouled. The slide NOT locking back on the last round seems to have corrected itself. I do not remember a single mag that the slide did not lock back on the last round. I had my buddy that let me borrow his press come to the range and help me shoot about half of the rounds. So not all of the failures happend while I was driving. Curtis jump in here at any time and thanks for the press time. I also had 8 Double TAP Bonded Defense rounds with me that I took out of the mag when we arrived. On the last 4 mags we loaded the first 2 rounds with the DT then topped off with the reloads. I can tell you it was not hard to know when you were down to one more round. They defenately had more mustard behind them. One of these rounds did the jam with the bullet sticking straight up (And I brought a camera and forgot to take a damn pic what a dumb***). Another round of the DT jammed cocked up like the reloads were doing on the last round out of the mag. I might buy a Tripp mag to try out. I was reading on the 1911 forum that someone on there recommened them as an aftermarket mag and had good success and the factory mags that came with the gun were not as reliable. SSSSSSOOOOOOOOooooooooooooo I took the gun down once I got home and gave it a good cleaning and another generous offering of Militec. I also sprayed some cleaner down the barrel and passed a brush in the chamber and down the barrel a few times. So if my theroy of a dirty chamber being correct, or atleast partially correct should be solved. My next plan is to go back to the range with some DT defense loads and see if the failure to feeds are now down to just the last round in the mag. (Which would still suck but I feel I am making progress and new mags if that is the problem is an easy fix). The gun now has a total of just over 550 rounds down the pipe so I think it should be broke in by now. I was reading on the 1911 forum that another guy had a similar problem and he found the extractor was riding the slide a little and I think one place on the slide. He took some polishing compound to is with a dremel just polishing not taking any materal off with a disk or anything and he said that fixed his problems. So by me running rounds I figure I am doing the same thing polishing the high spots. I also had worked the slide by hand probabaly 200 times before this last session. And the fit is very tight. In closing it seems like some of the problems have went away but this was with some powder puff loads compared to the DT and that is the ammo I really need it to run reliable for the gun to fit the purpose I bought it for. So I might give it another acid test tomorrow with the full power DT and report back. If the only thing that happens is feeding problems on the last round I will consider that a win. Fingers Crossed.

It may be the primers. I had fits today with some Wolf Large Pistol. If you feel any resistance at all do not force the next few primers in, it will only get worse. It sucked but I would just load the tube with a few then dump. Seemed to help instead of loading all 100.

Chris thanks for the suggestions and link. I took the gun apart and read the articles suggestions. It appears that the extractor has been tuned. It has the rounded edges on the bottom and a round does stay under the extractor with the slide off the gun and the barrel out. Following all of the recomendations of the Brazo's article it seems to my untrained eye that everything checks out. I guess I just need to load up some rounds and shoot a few hundred more and see what happens. By working the slide by hand it is defenately smoother than when I first got it. At this point from the suggestions I have recieved I think the only other thing might be the mags. The recoil spring is defenately not light, I think I read that it comes with a factory 24# spring. Possibly the mag springs are too light but they were pretty hard to load the last round so I am not sure. Right now I am at a loss. I do not think I can damage anything by continuing to shoot it. I plan on running another 500-1000 throught it and if it continues to have problems then I think I will contact DW.

The mag are the factory mags that came with the gun. The oil I use is Miltec I have not had any issues with it in my STI. The weather was probaby about 45 maybe 50 degres Saturday so I do not think that the oil was gummed up due to low temp. I am interested to check the tension on the extractor but I am not familiar how to do that. When the rounds got suck they both ejected when I was able to rack the slide so the extractor had to be in the groove of the case head for that to happen correct? Maybe it was in the groove and the tension was so much that it would push the round into the side of the chamber and not allow it to go completely into battery? The Slide to frame fit is pretty tight. But I put the slide and barrel on the frame and I could work the slide back and fourth very easily without any resistance. (I left the spring and guide rod out just to see if I could feel any resistance). When I did go to take the gun back down to put the guide rod and spring in I did have a little trouble getting the slide off. It was like the barrel dropped a little and put something in a bind. I did take the factory spent case and it went in and out of the chamber pretty easy. I was just seeing if it would be very tight for me to pull out but it was really not an issue. As far as the ammo the two rounds that "jammed" the slide just out of battery were both Double Tap Nickel cased ammo. On the second round that locked the slide I compared it to another round in the box and just eyeballing it, it did seem like it was set back in the case some. I know I probably should not have put it back in the gun but as stated before it feed and fired fine so possibly the round jamming into the rifling might have some merrit.

Ok I know some 1911's have a break in period. So my question is, is what follows part of a regular break in or is something wrong. I bought a new CBOB in 10mm. I put 150 rounds through it in the first range session with about 10-15 failure to feeds. It would always eject the case but would have trouble picking up the next round. IIRC twice the next round flipped vertical in the gun with the bullet sticking up out of the ejection port. When I got home I took the gun down to clean and oil it and I did see some metal flakes in the the slide rails (very tiny). There were some polished looking streaks on the frame rails and in the rails on the slide. So I was thinking good it is breaking in no big deal. I oiled it up and went to the range again this past weekend. I ran 100 more rounds through it and had about 7-10 failures to feed. And atleast twice I think 3 or 4 times the slide locked open with rounds left in the gun. THE BIG thing this time was TWICE the gun would not go 100% into battery. It would eject the spent case and feed the next round but not close all the way. I would say the slide was about 1/4" from completely closing and when I tried to rack the slide it was jammed up pretty good. The first time it did it I yanked and pulled as hard as I could on the slide and finally on about the fifth time I got the round out of the gun. The second time I could not get the round out by just trying to manapulate the slide normally. I had to go put the edge of the slide on a piece of wood and press down HARD to get the slide to cycle to eject the round. I inspected the round to see if there were any defects or possibly the case not being crimped properly but everything looked normal. Both of these rounds I put back in the mag racked the slide and they both feed fine, went off and ejected normally so I really do not think it was ammo related. All of these rounds were factory ammo. The first range session consisted of 100 Blazer Aluminum cased rounds and 50 rounds from Double Tap Ammo. The second range session was 100 rounds of Double Tap. 50 180gr Controlled Expansion JHP and 50 200gr Controlled Expansion JHP. After this last session I took the gun down again and it was basicly clean. Really no more flakes (and when I say flakes really tiny not like big peices of metal). The gun was hardly fouled at all. And I inspected all of the parts to look for any obvious signs of damage. Everything looks normal. I also visually looked at the mags and they seem fine as well. I did not put a caliper to them but they look identical and no obvious damage to the feed lips. So has anyone else had any issues like this with a break in? One of my shooting buddies thinks I should just shoot some more rounds through it and I will but how long can I expect this to continue if this is normal?

Here is a list I made from suggestions in this thread and others I have found. The data may not be 100% because the only powders I have ran in my 550 are VVN320 and WSF both of which work good for me. Feel free to comment or add. What powders flow nice in a 550B Good: VV310 VV320 VV330 3n337 Bullseye Clays Titegroup American Select Power Pistol W231 WSF WST IMR-4895 and 4064 H335 good for .223 and flows well Hogdon Benchmark good for .223 Others good for .223 - Winchester 748, Hodgen H-335, Accurate 2230, and Accurate 2015, which is a "stick (extruded) powder," but the sticks are very small so it will rarely bridge in the Powder Measure, all work real well for .223 in a Dillon Powder Measure. Bad: Unique AA5 Varget Excellent for 308 and good for .223 but tends to bridge 2520 W748

To me from me .

I am sure you are correct and I have heard of other people doing the same thing. I just do not understand how the striker would hit the primer. The 40 S&W case being shorter is seems like the round would go deeper in the chamber and not allow the striker to hit it? I guess if the extractor caught the case and held it "proud" of the bottom of the chamber it would fire. I just bought a DW CBOB in 10mm and I dropped a 40 S&W case in the chamber just to see and it defenately sit deeper than the 10mm. I did not try to fire it nor would I but it seems like bad ju ju?

Being from Louisiana I am naturally a fan. I am in a way glad that they lost. Now the pressure of the perfect season is gone. I think it will be one less distraction for the team. The real goal is the SuperBowl. I think it showed them that they cannot afford to become lazy in there execution. I hope the loss puts a realy bad taste in their mouth and makes them hungry to do better. After all they have a post season spot locked up. They can bouce back from this loss, not such the case once you are in the playoffs. PS to all the Dallas fans. You need to get a better kicker LOL.

When Jerry ask for your autograph. <----------------- YEA that will be the day. Or when you are forced to go to Babies "R" Us to register and you walk around with the laser gun with a proper grip shooting the bar codes. I also asked the lady if they had a holster for it. (Puzzled face no reply).

INTJ

Well if anyone has a Cheytac and would let me run a few through it "Have truck will travel!" Until then I guess I just have to save up some cash.

Anyone getting WSP from Grafs? I have a back order and just wondering if I might be up soon. Thanks

Rob if you ever need some help humping ammo cans up the hill I would love tot tag along. I am seriously considering selling my Barret to get a 408.

http://lcsahighpower.com/2008/04/22/reloading-match-ammo/

So are you certain that Black Hills uses TAC powder? I think I read that some where but I would like to know 100% certainty. I have some Black Hills Gold with a 168grn pill that Noveske recommended and it shoots lights out. I tried some of my reloads for my Dad's M1A of 168gr SMK under 41.5 IMR-4895 out of that upper and the Black Hills out shoots it. Does anyone know what bullet Black Hills uses in the Gold ammo? It does not seem to be a Serria.

I have done some searching and I think this combo should make minor without any problems. I am planning on chronoing 10 rounds each starting at 3.0grains in 0.1 grain increments to find a PF of about 132-135. I think 3.5ish is probably where I will end up. What OAL should I load to? It is a stock gun besides sights. Thanks

Ok I just ordered a CED M2 with the IR screens 2 days ago. With this set up shouldn't I beable to use it in any light at any time and get "real" readings that will not be affected by the sun or other light source due to the IR being in the non visible spectrum?