SN13

I was looking for the CPMI but no one seems to sell it anymore.

JAB, I have a cheap open gun in 40 (major) that shoots well with 165gr Winchester White box for sale in the Classified section. Gun is 25+1. with 3 mags.

That appears to be a double-sided attachment.... don't those usually interfere with ejection?

2011 STI Frame for like an Aimpoint Comp C3

What are the options out there for Tube Red-Dot Mounts? I'm turning up very little in my google-search. Anyone able to name off or link a few tube mounts? Thanks!

This is probably the best post I've read on here since I started. I will have to try this next time I am at the range. I have problems with my eyes and tracking the sights.

Thanks Eric.

Yep, I couldnt stop watching his Avatar . . . .

That "Barry mount" is new to me. It seems to address some of the issue with the 90* mount blocking so much of the left field of view.

I'm curious what the advantage of the aluminum STI grips have over the plastic "standard" ones?

http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hstrial-Saiga20Mags/-strse-1/shotgun%2C-USPSA%2C-IPSC%2C-competition%2C/Detail.bok Finally 20ga mags over 5rd capacity. Just thought you all would like to know, just released a few days ago... saw em on the Saiga-12 boards. Good Shooting! ~SN

OK. Some work out of the box with Federal Value Pack 1 1/8oz 3dram target loads. Some do not. You can do all the work on a Saiga yourself if you are patient and take the time to figure out how each part works. I did all the work on my S-12 and have 10k rounds through it. It still works fine as long as i don't feed it "reduced recoil" crap. If you want one done perfectly by a pro, you have to spend the money. It's not in the parts but in the time to make the bolt, springs, gas system, etc. work flawlessly. I know I've spent hours of my own time tuning my system. It runs. The Saiga has more potential than any other open shotgun. You can DIY and spend the time to learn the gun and tweak it yourself, or you can send it off and have a pro build it for you and spend the $$$$. Is your free-time worth more or your money. It's your choice. Don't bother DIY if you aren't a puzzle-solver or tinkerer. ~SN

"...using a stock Saiga quicker than that procedure can be performed on an XRail gun." Soooo you want a STOCK $500 shotgun to beat a gun with an X-Rail that costs MORE than the Saiga? Sweet.

I'd also like to comment. Any person who uses a firearm and doesn't know HOW it works, and therefore HOW to fix it, and won't spend the time to find out should not own a Saiga. If you take all your guns to a gunsmith to change the stock or a trigger component, don't buy a Saiga. I do all my own Saiga work. My Saigas function FLAWLESSLY. My S-12 has thousands of rounds through it. I don't oil it. I don't clean it. It works. I made it work with a hammer, a screwdriver, and a dremel.

The irony of this.... I sold Shay his Y-comp.... I had no AR at the time. After selling it to him, he said something like "I like it better than some of the more expensive comps out there" which is what got me thinking about it as a possibility....

http://www.scribd.com/doc/22829785/AR15-Compensators-pt-2 Is a fantastic read. Thank you. One thing else I noticed. SJC Lund and TTI Eliminator .... very similar to the Bushmaster Ycomp. I'm not a Bushmaster fan, but... If the Ycomp does 99% of what the SJC/TTI do at 50% the cost... we'll see. thanks for the input guys!

There seem to be two SJC .223 Titan Comps. One $90 one $120... IF they are the same besides the material ($120 is Stainless) then i'll get the SJC and be done with it. Thanks for the help guys. On a side note, the Bushmaster Y-Comp is very similar in design to the SJC Titan. 3-rearward horizontal ports/baffels and some compensating ports on top. If anyone has any more input, i'd appreciate it. ~SN

0.65" Diameter barrel which widens to 0.70" at the tip just before the crush washer and flash hider. Compensator is at the very bottom of the page: http://www.bushmaster.com/products.asp?cat=8 That's the biggest issue, i don't want a brake that doesn't flow into the barrel but i hate Heavy profiles. Also, what's the max OD on the brake that keeps me in Tactical? Thanks!

Did a search. Didn't find much on the Y-Comp. SO i Asked.

Was looking to get a brake/comp for my AR15. More of an AK guy myself, but I'm hoping to be able to increase my Rifle proficiency by going with my AR15. The problem is, i need a comp. I was kinda looking at getting the Bushmaster Y-Comp. My barrel is not a heavy barrel, so I'd want a slimmer profile, and the Ycomp seems to fit the bill. Anyone use it before? Also, other suggestions would be helpful. ~SN

That's perfectly fine. Have a nice day.

Fill us in on this "hear say". What first hand information do you have to share? Have you shot one? Have you seen one or handled one? Fill us in. Look I'm not going to give details about why I wouldn't ever buy an R&R part. You can do what you want with your money, I just don't like the way R&R has treated some people I know.

Here you go. Vid one Takedown, Vid two reassemble, Vid 3 both. One-Hand Takedown (Camera in other hand) One-Hand Re-assemble (Camera in other hand) Two-handed take-down & Re-assemble, camera in mouth, can't see gun.... you'll notice me feeling for everything. I'm doing it basically blindfolded.

Alrighty. Clear the gun first. Next, see the tab sticking out the rear of the dust cover near the stock attachment point? Push that in. When it's in far enough you can remove the dust cover. Next, remove the return spring assembly. Push forward until it comes out of the slot on the rear near the stock. Then simply remove it from the bolt carrier. Next, slide the bolt carrier all the way rearward and remove. If you want to remove the bolt from the bolt carrier, simply rotate the entire assembly and it will come out. Play with it, you'll see what I mean. Now, look at the forward side of your gasblock, press the detent pin down and rotate the gas selector until it unscrews. Inside you'll see the "Puck" or "Piston" or "Tappet" it's called a few things. Remove it by using your cleaning rod from the rear. Just pop it out. If it's tight and won't come out, tap the cleaning rod with a hammer and the puck will come out. You're done. That's "Torn Down". Now if you're going to do a conversion, there's a bit more that needs to be done. Welcome to the darkside ~SN

Ask and ye shall receive.