Freddie the Swede

Links shouldn't break off. It seems that you have some serios barrel fit problems on you guns. AFIK the link should NEVER break since the barrel feet should hit the vertical inpact area first (the frame). To my knowledge the barrel link only breaks if the vertical impact if too far back (rear of the gun). I recommend that you send both guns back for either a refund or replacement. //Fredrik I'll switch to a guide rode I guess, as I did with my other gun (I would have assumed that a barrel would be made of a tougher material though). Just to add to the general misery, the barrel link broke recently on this gun too. On my other ("custom tuned") STI the link pin broke a month ago (and barrel damaged), now on this gun (EDGE 5.0) the link itself broke in half. Both guns had cca. 4,000 rounds each and were purchased in January. It is screwing up my match schedule completely. Is there something wrong with sti's quality management, or should I have never quit shootin' that glock..? I think my next gear will be something like custom svi from someone I know..

is a real gem. A true Gentleman in all aspects. I have done a couple of deals here with him and I must say that this guy walkes the extra mile for you as a buyer. Benjamin, thanks a million for all your help with advices and parts. Do not hesitate to deal with Benjamin as he's the best. Best regards Fredrik

I've been thinking a bit regarding the weak hit on the primer. Could it be that it was s slow ignition?? When did my military service we where told that if we had a strike on the round but no bang. We should wait a couple of second before opening the gun as the primer could ignite the round after several seconds. It could have been such a slow ignition as the sound of the gun going of infront of me sound a bit odd. On the other I've never had a open gun fired in front of me before, so who knows. It's was scary and I have learned a lesson. Have a safe holster and check the lock every time you are about to move with a loaded gun. Be careful out there, I will be. Thanks for listening //Fredrik

Thanks to all who answered. Trigger parts I have now ordered new trigger parts for my gun as the "safe" parts that I have now is not up to par weight wise. Although they are safe and thats the main concern right now. I have ordered a Koenig hammer. Extreme Engineering sear, SVI disconnector and SVI sear spring. A very nice gentleman here "TrueDoubletaper" suggested these parts and as he is a gunsmith I'll trust him. Holster Shot a match this sunday and used my old Safariland 008 holster and found it much safer and not any slower than my 011. Talked to a friend in Arizona about the new Safarlind 013 holster that is out now. He is going to check it out and maybe I'll get one. It's supposed to have a new lock that will keep the gun in postition contrary to the 011 and 012 holsters. It also has a muzzle cup that prevents any pushing to the muzzle when sitting down. He works at Safariland so I will get inside info and hopefully a inside price Anyway, I've learned a lesson here and will NOT practice with a hot gun anymore. As bad luck can hit you anytime I will not risk it. Just think of it, What's the odds that you first drop the gun, then when the gun hits the ground the safety flies off, then the hammer falls AND the half cock does not catch the hammer and a shot goes off!!! Please remember that the safety was ON when this happend and that I had checked the trigger mechanism less than 1 month before.... Thanks to all. //Fredrik I couldn't agree more. After dropping my 2011 from a Safariland 012 with tension set to max, several times, I bought a Ribas. No dropped guns since. I always wondered when I got it why my 012 just didn't seem as secure as my old 010...which wasn't that secure either...'til I figured out the tension screw was bearing on the aluminum holster shell instead of the plastic "ears" of the lock body. Once I opened up the hole to let the tension screw knob's body to pass through the aluminum side and bear on the ear, well, when it's tight I can't yank hard enough to get it out. Just a FYI possible fix for those having 012 problems. By the way I'm using a Ribas now for everything...no worries about muzzle cup/plug adjustments when I want to switch between my Limited and Open guns. And THANK GOD, you're okay Freddie...I'm sure the lesson of going "cold" whenever you're not actually shooting won't be lost on you.

Ok, Didn't know that. I'll pick a choice that suits my needs then. Thanks Fredrik

I have seen Brazos, Extreme engineering and Cylinder & Slide. What would be the best choice for me. I have no pistolsmith around so I need a set that is drop in. I have a pull gage and a marvel hammer and sear jig so I can do slight work myself but I prefer to do as less a possible. My goal is to have a 2 - 2 1/2 Lbs trigger in my S_I 2011 gun. //Fredrik PS. I have a WTB in the clasifieds if you have a trigger pull set for sale.

AFAIK the recoil spring guide rod should never come in contact with the barrel legs. So I would say that I concur with the poster saying that someone used the barrel to get the bushing out is correct. //Fredrik

I'd go with the hybricomp as you can pick and choose your comp then. And I also know that the modified division is under discussion for cancelling or not. (Not many shooters). So I would think twice before building a new gun. Also to consider would be the Modified box size when you decide which barrel to choose. Will it fit inside the box or not? Or must you cut the barrel down and will that work with any of the two barrels that you are showing?? Best wished //Fredrik

Some more info. Double and triple checked the safety and it's ok. Gun has a normal lenght firing pin and a standard spring. Checked the oldsear and the sear and hammer combination is probably the reason for the following. The sear has a cut in the middle that is supposed to get that hammer half cock hook. The hammer that was inside did not have a narrow hook. It has a wide hook. The new hammer has a narrow hook and will not follow. Tried it several times. Changed the hammer to another one that I have and it stopped following. Double and triple checked the function again. Checked the the new hammer sear combo again for hammer follow, and it has stopped. So I think that I have solved the hammer following problem. Still wondering about WHY the hammer followed on a cocked and locked gun. Still wondering WHY the safety flew off when the gun hit the ground. Checked the safety again and not apparent fault with it. Could it be so that when the gun hit the ground muzzle first (probably) the safety flew off (which is really wierd) then the gun rattled so hard when it fell on its side that the sear bounced and the hammer followed, caught the half cock notch, slipped over the half cock and then ignited the primer. (light intedation). Back to the accident. I know that the gun when off when the barrel was pointing to the side wall as I saw the muzzle flash coming out from the comp. The comp holes where pointing towards me when the round went off. It's pretty strange that I remeber the whole thing in slow motion. I probably missed getting the trigger guard inside the lock on the holster as I don't recall hearing the click from the lock. And when I took the first step forward I saw the gun falling out of the holster. I did not try to catch it as it was loaded (dont wanna stick my fingers on a falling loaded gun). The actual impact to the wooden floor is a blur to me but I do rember seing it go off with a deep bang and then seing the flash coming out of the comp holes pointing towards me. First thing that went trough my head was. WHERE did that bullet go. Is there anyone else around me. Luckily my shooting buddy was not on the range anymore. Thanks for your concerns and input but the gun is safe again but the incident still scares me. Gotta find me a new holster. Will not go back to the Safariland 011 again. Probably will use my old 007 that will catch the gun if the lock fails. Tried it several times yesterday and it will catch the gun 100%. //Fredrik

This was really scary. I was alone at the indoor range at my local club and was shooting Bill drills. And when I'm alone at the range I usually don't unload between the drills at the different distances. When walking between the 15 and the 10 yard line my gun pops out of my Safariland 011 holster and hits the ground. BANG!!!! When it hits the ground it goes OFF and the shot hits the wall to my right. What the f*ck I say to myself. The gun was on safe and I had been shooting more than 150 rounds prior to if falling out. I must say that I have never in 20 years dropped my gun ever. Never happend. When my legs stopped trempling I walk up to the gun on the floor and pick it up and unloads it and check it over. To my astonishment the thumbsafety is no where to be found, just the right part of the ambi safety is left. Hammer is resting on the firing pin and there is a empty case in the chamber. The case has a very lightly depressed primer like the firing pin just nudged it. Hardly any indentation on it. What the f*uck just happend??? I check the floor for the missing safety and finds it several yards from the gun. It's not broken or anything just out of the gun. I pack my stuff and goes home, too shaken to continue shooting. I later check the gun and the hammer follows through when releasing the slide from the slide stop. This has never happend before either, I have had the hammer following down to the half cock notch when adjusting the sear spring but never have i had it to full down. What happend???? How can the safety fly off and let the gun go off?? The trigger was not pulled and the safety is fitted good. I've checked it several times and it's perfectly safe. The trigger set has been in the gun for over ten year and it has never failed before. Nor did it follow down when I checked the gun a couple of months ago. The only scenario I can think of is that the gun hit the floor on the muzzle and then pushed the slide back which in turn popped the safety off and out of the gun. Then the hammer falls for some strange reason. Then the hammer catches on the half cock notch but bounces off hitting the firing pin with enough force to set the primer off.... The rest is history..... But the main question is how did it happen?? Can my scenario be true? But just think of it. Someone could have died when I dropped the gun... Holy shit!!! I wont shoot the gun again until I know what happend. //Fredrik PS. The trigger is set for around 2 1/4 Lbs and has takeup and a slight over travel. It's been safe for over ten years have never had any problems before.

I have some friends who use 3N37 for their 9 majors. They load around 7,5 grains with a OAL similar to a standard 9x19. As I have not loaded this load myself I would advice to start well below it. But I know it works both in a 5" inch SVI open gun and a Open Glock with comp. Really nice and flat shooting and no visible problems at all with preassure. //Fredrik

I would recommend Frank Glenn at Glenn Cusom in Phoenix, AZ. He has built Biachi Guns for Robbie Leatham, Brian Enos, Arnt Myhre and myself and I would like to quote TGO who once said: "He built the revolvers I shot at the Bianchi Cup before I changed to the auto. I should have won that match many times as I always had the best revolvers on the line". Thats a pretty nice statment in my ears. Frank is a really nice guy and a eral gentleman. Check out his website and do give him a call. http://www.glenncustom.com/ //Fredrik

As I see it we have two different products that are equally good. The only difference is a few dollars and design. You pick your choice and decide whats best for you. As for myself I will stick to the polymer grips as they fit my budget and I like to shoot. More money equals more shooting (for me that is). A good and bad discussion is usually fruitless as opinions will wary with the person who gives the answer. //Fredrik

Rounds going too deep in the chamber?? //Fredrik

Hi Jyrki, Please post a review of the Bedell Titanium comp here as soon you have any results. I have one on the workbench that I gonna put on my 9 major. Before I put on the 9 major I might test it on my current 38 super just to see if I like it first. //Fredrik

115 grainers are UPSA rules and minimum 120 grains is IPSC rules. I really don't know why there is a difference though??? Anyone that do know? //Fredrik Where can you still shoot 115gr? I'm just returning and understood that you have to use at least a 120 or 121gr projectile now.

You can also take a look at EGW's cone comp that is very similar to the Bedell comp. It has the 575x40 threads that you are looking for and you can get it at either Speed shooters International or directly from EGW. //Fredrik PS: Gans comps looks mighty fine as well.

Hi, As far as I know you only need to change the barrel. That's IF you have SVI mags and NOT an Afted extractor. If you have STI mags you need a spacer and new follower. If you have an Aftec extractor you probably need a new one as they are specified for 9x19 and not for 38 Super Comp. I might be wrong on the extractor though. Don't use one and therefore don't need to change it for my 9 major project. //Fredrik

Hi again, Tried Brownells one more time and cant for my life find it. Anyone having the product number for Brownells? //Fredrik

Tried to find it on Brownells.com but could not find it. Any ideas? I'm gonna use it to fit a comp on my 9 major. //Fredrik

Sounds like the extractor you have has a heat treatment problem and won't hold its bend. Normally they are very springy and won't lose their bend so easy. Hope that the new one will work better. //Fredrik

My thought are that since the introduction of the added classes such as production, modified and standard (talking IPSC rules here) the race guns have stagnated a little bit as there is not a one class game any more. More thought and money from the mfg:s is steered towards more classes and different guns. At the same time some mfg:s specialize in different guns (read STI, SVI and SPS). More aftermarket suppliers strive and the evolution goes forward. It's very much like car racing. Take for example F1 racing. The cars looks a little different each year but the general desing is not changed. On the other hand the results are improving all the time. 20 years ago a 7 second run on the El Presidente was considered really fast. Today thats a slow time. It's amazing how fast everything gets evolves. 23 years ago when I started IPSC shooting I had the most tricked out gun in the area. It was a Colt Commander with a Wilson barrel and LE Accu comp (Single Chamber) in 45 acp, Bo-Mar sights and a crisp 3 Lbs trigger. On my belt I had the newest Wilson/Rogers holster and 6 Wilson 8 shot magazines. I was king in my club I enjoyed shooting. Today I have a 28 shot SPS/Caspian 2011 with C-more sights, a four chamber comp in 38 super and a Safariland 011 holster. Evolution has taken me from 8 shots in 45 acp and iron sights to 28 shots in 38 super and a Heads Up Display red dot sight. It's still a race gun but the difference is like racing a 1960:s F1 car with radial tires to a 2000 F1 from Ferrari. It's still cars but the difference is mind boggling. I think that in ten or twenty year in the future we will have more evolution and better guns and different designs. maybe totally new guns but the main thing will remain. DVC (Precision, Power and accurcy). I must stop rambling........ Cheers Fredrik

As we all strive for less muzzle jump and dot movement we add comps to our guns. What comp/hole combination do you have. I'm currently running a 38 super with a 4-port comp on it. I'm making a change to 9 Major though so I look forward to you replies/votes. //Fredrik

Regarding the ejection "problem" this might be an interesting read. The text is from another thread on BE. Subject number 1: There are two philosophies regarding recoil springs. The first has to do with physics and reliability. If the recoil spring is too strong the ejected cases will be thrown forward. If the recoil spring is too light the ejected cases will be thrown aft. When the recoil spring is correct the cases will be ejected to the side of the gun. This gives maximum ejection reliability. It also gives maximum feeding reliability. If the recoil spring is too light the slide goes fully aft, but the spring isn't strong enough to get the slide up to speed before the slide engages the next round. The slow speed also produces a prolonged feed cycle, that gives the cartridge maximum time to tip down before it hits the feed ramp, which lowers the probability of a successful feed. After the round contacts the ramp the spring is too weak to reliably push the nose of the cartridge up the feed ramp and into the chamber If the recoil spring is too strong the slide does not go fully aft, and while the spring is strong, the slide travel before the slide engages the next round in the magazine is too short to develop the slide velocity needed for reliable feeding, so again the feeding cycle is slow to start with, leading to a higher probability of the nose of the cartridge tipping down, leading to a lower probability of a successful feed. With the correct recoil spring the slide goes fully aft and the spring is strong enough to get the slide up to full speed before engaging the next round, and it is strong enough to push the nose of the cartridge up the feed ramp and into the chamber. This give optimum feeding reliability. The second has to do with shootability. If the recoil spring is weak, the feeding of the next round is weak, and the slide velocity as the gun goes into battery is slow, so the gun muzzle doesn't tip down as the slide stops in battery. Lots of shooters believe this improves shot to shot time and accuracy, because they perceive gun motion is less between shots. But, that is because the slide cycle is slowed considerably, and the cycling forces are lower and spread out, but the gun doesn't get back into battery until just before pulling the trigger for the next shot. With the correct spring the cycle time is only 50 milliseconds so the gun is back in battery a tenth of a second before the next shot. The shooter's perception is the gun is jerking around more, but the truth is the gun is back into battery quicker, and the reloading cycle is reliable and consistent, so the shooter eventually learns, with practice, to predictably put the second shot where the first shot went. Using a lighter spring introduces a more variable reloading cycle, because the reliability is lower, so the shooter's brain is never sure exactly how the gun is going to be behaving prior to the following shot, which leads to problems with predictable second shot placement. "Wil Schuemann" Best regards Fredrik

Feel free to ask ANY question. As I'm also fairly new here and I have asked a lot and got a ton of answers. Please don't forget to use the excellent search function as there are many hidden answers here if you look for them. The classifieds are also great if you are searching for that special part you need for you latest project. Have fun and be friendly among friend. //Cheers Fredrik