J.Schmitt

Thanks for digging into it Chuck. Jay

The gun shoots fine. I want to know what is causing it. Something else on the inside of the gun "Trigger Group" is moving the right safety. Kinda figured mayby something can be smoothed out even more. I figure the less that moves the better. Jay

What causes the right side safety to bulge out slightly after the trigger is pulled. It bulges to the point where I am able to see the entire pin where it enters the frame. Anything I should do to correct this or is it normal. I am able to dry fire it and hold the safety in without feeling it move when I pull the trigger. Occures in both SA and DA. Jay

re-post your question on the Shotgun Technical page and you will get a lot of responses. People will want to know what length tube you have and the manufacture. First thing I'd ask is if you load the magazine tube and then manually release a shell onto the carrier, does it come flying out of the tube with a nice fast snap. If it doesn't or if your tube spring is even only a year or two old its time to replace it. Corrected a similar problem I had. Jay

I usually will shoot the value packs from walmart but always have a few boxes of Handicap loads on hand. I use those for the longer steel shots when a stage is set up with say a plate rack at 20 yards. I also like the handicap load for the texas star, we normally have the star with the wire spring retainer, if not set exactly right even a direct hit with the low power stuff will not always take the plates off. I like to select a choke based on stage design as well. Jay

you got that right. we shot a smith vortex and a noveske side by side out of identical 10.5 inch DPMS rifles with the same Federal FMJ ammo. The noveske threw a big flame out the front. The vortex just seemed to blow the fire out. In the dark(SHTF), the flash matters. Jay

any ammo issues, does one brand work better than another thanks jay

I am nearsighted and have contacts to correct astigmatism in both eyes. Mine are both corrected to 20/15. I found success in just removing my Right eye, dominant, lense. My vision is not terrible, I think the contacts are something like -1.75. Side point to this topic is that I could focus hard on the front sight with the contact in the right eye. What I was having difficulty with was refocusing from the target to the sight and doing it for multiples on course of fire. My weapon would be in front of my face and I found myself searching for the sight. Removing the contact now allows me to not have to work the muscles in the right eye to atain quicker aquasition of the front sight. Just started this about 3 weeks ago and I am seeing new successes as a result. Jay

I did the remake of the front end of mine last year. What I wanted was the free float tube. I have a rock river with a mid length gas system. I opted to go for a VTAC full lenth handgaurd and therefor mounted a low profile adjustable JP gas block under it. I then mounted a block in front of the tube to mount on a flip up Yankee sight that I already had. You could mount a low profile gas block and a midlength handgaurd. I think you might run out of length with a full length handgaurd. Take a look at JP's website, they have a couple different diameter blocks avail for different size barrels. I had to try two to get the right one.

Yeah I'm aware of that. But without chunking the barrel I'm stuck with the gas length. I'm actually debating an adjustable gas block to go under the handguards but I'm concerned on a CAR length it would cause more aggravation than solve problems. An adjustable gas block will not help you much. The gas system is just to short to make the fine tuning neccessary on an adjustable block. I have a mid length with the adjustable and I realy dont use it much except to experiment with. I run it for full power at matches to ensure reliability. Its realy designed for the full length system so you can generate enough bullet speed before the gas hits the bock. The Muzzle Brake is going to be the way to go with the carbine gas system to help control recoil. Mounting a front sight to the free float is ok if it is for back up. The free float does have some ability to move and flex especially at the front end and if shooting with the tube supported. Jay

Oh yeh, I shot a few 50 round boxes of the Peters from gander 1.99 a box. they worked fine. I think Peters is a Remington product.

gander also has a 525 pack for 24 dollars. cabelas has the same on sale now for 16.99(on backorder) these are the 36 grain hollow point golden bullet. I like walmarts price best if you can find any. Those AA mags are made for CA 10 round mag restriction. I hav'nt tampered wit one yet bot I think I can shave down the bottom of the follower and possibly get another two round in. (has anyone else tried this) jay

PROBLEM: TRIGGER NOT DROPPING STIKER REASON: MOST LIKELY GHOST CONNESTOR WITH OVERTRAVEL STOP SOLUTION: I used a very fine file and then used a stone to make sure I had no sharp edges on the bottom of the firing pin. I made sure to maintain the slight angle on the bottom of the firing pin. I took the pin apart and put it back together about a dozen times, each time shaving just a few strokes off of the metal. I knew that I was close when I pulled the slide up away from the frame and was able to pull the trigger and drop the striker. After I was to that point it was only a couple of more strokes with the file and stone. Once finished I could see the trigger bar release the striker. This was a fairly simple fix that took about 1/2 hour of detailed attention and cost me nothing. I still have the ghost rocket with overtravel stop in the gun. Hope someone else can use this information.

What is you opinion on the issue that my trigger will not drop the striker. The conv kit works fine on a stock gun. The only upgrade I have is the Ghost. jay

does your ghost have the overtravel stop on it.

Thanks for the info on the Vanek. I spoke to a gunsmith and aside from replacing the connector the recommendation is to "stone" polish and remove a small amount of the metal on the portion of the striker exposed on the underside of the slide. This part is much longer than the factory portion on the original firing pin. I have not done this yet but will post when complete jay

Question for you AA owners. I just aquired one and find that I cannot drop the striker. The upper was a real pain to take off as well. When on the AA website I see it says that it may not work well with a aftermarket connector. Of course I have one instaled. Any suggestions from the forum. Mayby a little polishing or dremel on a particular spot. I dont want to get rid of the connector because I am very happy with it. Of couse the other option is to buy another glock. Cant have enough. Support out sport. Thanks for input. Jay

I shoot an m1 ( the same gun ) both for three gun and bird hunting. I use tetra gun grease on the threads and give the tube a good bit of steady torq when I screw it in. I shot approx 300 rounds of full power #2's and bb's throught the MN bird season without having it loosen. It may just be my particular gun or it could be the grease. For $4 bucks you might want to try it. jay

Thought I'd share this General Patton quote, it always makes me laugh. "They're ivory. Only a pimp from a cheap New Orleans whorehouse would carry a pearl-handled pistol.

Paul Howe designed one and XS sights is the manufacture. Take a look at CSAT website. (Combat Shooting and Tactics) I took a look at one this past summer when I attended a course of his. http://www.combatshootingandtactics.com/

I didn't read all 7 pages of the post but the ones I read were interesting. I would like to share that my PD, Minneapolis, has a shooting team we've been building over a few years that is getting out and about to a lot of competitions. We had 14 regulars who shot a total of 118 matches this year to include some out-of-state matches. Collectively, team members participated in 401 matches. Our team just put on a city wide competition for our officers. It was a memorial competition named for a fellow LEO SHOOTER who passed away. We have around 900 sworn on the PD and had 73 officers compete. We felt it was a good turn out. Stage was set with three arays of 4 targets in our indoor ranger. We required lateral movement and 2 mag changes. Also had a swinger target. Scoring was modified due to multiple different weapons used. Our whole gole as a Police Shooting Team is to compete in the civilian arena to mix it up in a competitive environment with some of our most staunch advocates.

I use an Eagle Industries Duty belt with the secure buckle and use belt keepers to attatch it to a rigid rappeling stlye belt. Very solid platform. Holds teck-lok equip in place and is very secure.

Which front post to go with? Who makes it? I have a .052 square post but had to file it down to get it short enough to sight in. I got it at the DPMS clubhouse. I'd like to get a spare but would like one that is sized correctly (height). It was considerably longer than the stock .072. I had also tried a kns .052 with the ball tip and found that to be long as well. Anyone have time on one of these. I got rid of it, seemed that the round tip held on a round plate at 200 meters was too much "round" to keep focus. The .052 sight is currently mounted in a yankee hill flip up mounted to the gas block.