Tom C

Wow...Super subjective. Best depends on your reasons for shooting the game. For me (talking SSP only) best is a Glock 19 (my carry weapon) with Trijicon fixed sights. If you mean best for the "game" only, either Glock 34 (9mm) or the Glock 35 (.40 cal) both needing trigger jobs (or replacement) and new notch and post sights of the shooters preference. Best outta the box for SSP would probably be a Sig (does that make me a heretic of great glock god).

Always study the surface you'll be moving over, watching for anything that could literally trip you or cause you balance issues as you move. I can not run (very bad knees) so I use, as others, small steps or even a kinda shuffle slide (surface permitting). Since you are new to the sport, move slow shoot slow...The speed for both will come. Most importantly though, welcome to IDPA and have alotta fun.

As an update, I had to miss a monthly match then jumped in on the next. I successfully embarrised myself when I "fell asleep" on one stage adding a good 20 clock seconds to my time (we won't talk about penalty points). Other than that one stage, most my stages were shot at my pace...down 4 or 5 and it felt good. Found a range where I can work on accuracy and speed (obviously NOT a public facility). It's fun looking fwd to shooting matches again.

IDPA all the way. You'll be SSP.

Just for detail, how left are we talking and at what range please? I have a G 34, 2 G19's and a G 26. All have fixed sights and on all of them I have had to drift the rear sight significantly, in the same direction, on all of them. Once I made that adjustment, all hit center target at 10, 20, 30 yds...I've not tried further except with the G 34 and it was center tgt at 50 yds.

When I was competing with a gen 3 Glock 34 I used night sights (drift adjustable for windage only). Most my fellow Glock 34 friends used fiber optic fronts (mostly opting for the green fiber) and a sparce few went with Sevigny comp sights. Either the Sevigny comp or the fiber optics will give you the visual room throught the rear sight to better "center" your shots. If I were going to change I'd probably lean hard to the green fiber optic.

That's interesting, but not necessarily factually correct. I shoot factory ammo from my G19 (Remington included) , Post chrono my G19 is always in the 128-132 pf range...Comfortably above the 125 pf floor. This is what I speak of:http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=177243 True enough, but you left out the next leg of the post from the person with the problem. " Members 39 posts Posted 30 June 2013 - 08:18 PM So upon disassembly and inspection I found the extractor is broken. New part on order and I am giving the broken piece to my BIL to take back to the Smith and get his money back. Thanks for the help" Is it ok with you if we agree to disagre? As I said, everytime I've chronod (and this includes WWB) it comes in 3-5 above the 125 floor. ergo my always comment.

That's interesting, but not necessarily factually correct. I shoot factory ammo from my G19 (Remington included) , Post chrono my G19 is always in the 128-132 pf range...Comfortably above the 125 pf floor.

I trust the man who understands the science. "Mark P Man, I feel like I have written this over a thousand times now. Here is some information on Glock barrels. ALL Glock barrels have POLYGONAL rifling. The .45s have Octagonal and the rest have Hexagonal. Typically, they give better sealing and higher velocity than conventional land and groove rifling. The total cross-section of a Glock barrel is LESS than a conventionally rifled barrel in the same caliber. Glocks also have generous chamber dimensions. For a combat piece with jacketed bullets, it is hard to beat. But they do have leading problems. It is true that the Glock annual has a small paragraph stating to not shoot lead. I have been researching and testing on this subject for over 8 years now. Primarily prompted by a G22 that blew in my hand while shooting over a chrono. I performed metallurgical testing on the barrel, way over-analyzed my reloading procedure, built a pressure block and tested thousands of round through Glock and conventionally rifled barrels. ANYONE who shoots lead through a Glock factory barrel is in danger. I will concede that there are some folks out there that do it safely, but they fully understand the issues and do things to mitigate. Even the Oregon Trial bullets can lead to overpressure. I have reviewed documents and analysis dealing with KBs in Glock for well over 100 pistols. I have personally examined 16 Blown Glocks to date. The issue is real and anyone who says it is not is either stupid or ignorant. FWIW, I am a mechanical engineer who does forensic and failure analysis for a living. So I do not write a novel, there is much information on GlockTalk http://glocktalk.com/ and there is a new Glock FAQ which I contributed to at: Mark W. P, B.S., E.I. Web http://www.werc.com"

Ah ha. so now the pieces fit together in this somewhat slow mind of mine. Maybe reduce the weight of the slide.

Ok, if the lube points that Glock recommends are being "wetted" properly that leads me to next question. Has this always been a problem with this particular Glock? If yes, consider using some Tetra grease (as a lapping agent..or any other lapping compund you trust), apply it to all four rail guides (a dab at each guide) and work the slide 10-20 times. Clean reapply and repeat. Try this oh, 3-5 cycles and see if that doesn't help. It just sounds as thought the slide speed isn't there (and might be dragging on a spot or two).

I really hate to labor this point, but your smithy, is he a Glock certified armorer? I've met a number of good smiths who really don't understand glocks.

Ok, let's backpeddle just a might. What type of lube are you using on the recommended lube points and how much lube are you using? I have seen cycling problems with the factory "lube" and both factory and hand loads. Clean away the factory grease with any cleaner (not cleaner/lube) and use most any name brand lube like rem-oil, or any "gun lube" your gun store carries. DO NOT use WD-40. I know, some of what I said sounds insulting and I appologize for that. Reality is though, these are questions a Glock armorer would ask you.

I would take your gear and go ahead and shoot. Take your time and get a feel for it, you will have a blast. Nobody expects you to break any records your first time out. Ahmen fatboyhd. As a new shooter, they'll just walk ya through and expect only one thing from ya.....That you be safe.

Shot my first IDPA match in ,ooooooooooooh 10-11 years or so and am pleased to post that I had a ball. Went back to my shooting roots using my Factory (except sights) G 19. I did make a number of mistakes (blaming my game time in USPSA but not blaming USPSA) but I will work through those issues. Sure wish I could get my hands on CCI Blazer 115 TMJ (Aluminum case). Shoots great from my 19. Oh well, I was able to work a deal with a boutique so at least I can get a case every couple of months as I accumulate my pennies (hahaha). As far as IDPA or USPSA, well I look at it this way.....If you are shooting, you are learning. I just find the concepts of IDPA are more in line with my idea of fun. It's all cool.

I don't know many, if any G 34 shooters who use Storm Lake. Like stick, my G 34 has a factory barrel and has shown no pref to 115 win white box, 115 CCI (aluminum case) Blazer (both tmj round nose), 124 Remington Fmj, Federal 147 HP. It absolutely hates Independance Ammo. Assuming you will reload, my GM friends tell me that hollow points are far and away the most accurate. I don't know as I don't reload. There has been a general move to the 124 grain bullets (in USPSA) so you might come up short trying to buy the 124's. The 147 grain rounds do have a milder feel for recoil and shooters seem to get on tgt a bit faster for followups. I know...I sound like a damned commercial...Sorry but what I am really saying is any quality jacketed bullet loaded in the same batch brass (if possible) should really just please you to no end. Oh yea...and the concensus is Titegroup for your powder. Have fun.

Hey, one last thing..Please post his fix(es). Might help alotta folk.. Good luck. The fix shouldn't cost ya too many $$$

Don't know where you are Piney but sounds as thougg you've done everything short of going to a Glock armorer or sending it back to Glock. When you say you cleaned everything, did you make sure you had no hard buildup on the breach of the barrel? I'll talk to my friend who also happens to be a Glock Armorer and see what he thinks.

I did use Glockmeister 3.5lb trigger but have since returned the trigger to stack as I carry this particular Glock 19 and want my carry firearm to be stock. I did have the striker and trigger bar trued by my friendly neighborhood Glock Armorer. In slow and in fast fire (slow defined as 1 sec shot cadence, fast is about 0.5 sec) it is a 3-4" group weapon at 25 yards.

A little high at 10 yds is reasonable. As far as the sights go, 9mm from a handgun is pretty flat shooting. I've looked over the numbers for factory loads and the trajectory between the 115 and 147 gr bullets is negligable out to 50 (and more) yards. This is why I went with fixed sights. I'm an equipment technician with over 30 yrs of equipment experience and that has taught me, the fewer moving parts the better. Nice thing about sport shooting is, with regards to firearm setup, as long as it's within the division rules, it's shooters choice. Have fun with it.

good point. usually i try not to, but i had to tuck in to avoid exposing myself to targets on my right. Thx for bein generous with me. I know there are some times there is no other way to engage targets without extending around a barracade or through a port. There are times that truths become "rules of thumb" or truisms at best. As I see it the big thing is you're out there and shooting. The details will come.

Yes agree. Change the sights. Question. At wgat range distance was your tgt? A little high might be normal depending on distance. Is your 34 going to be a competition firearm? if yes, consider changing the striker spring and trigger spring to a competition set. On my personal 34 it took the pull from 4.5 lbs to a very repectable 3+ lbs and my groups apparently tightened as I wasn't "fighting" the trigger.

Try not to crowd the barracade. What I mean is, if you have to pull your weapon back to transition from side to side, you are making 3 movements just to transition (pull back, trasition, push out). Yes this is a picky point but, you did ask. BTW, I've just come back to IDPA from USPSA so forgive me if I make any dumb comments. My heart has always been with IDPA but the local club was not well run. Seems that situation is corrected so..."drizzle drazzle druzzle drone...time for this one to come home" (If you recognize this line..you are at least as old or older than me...lol)

I was shooting USPSA so I did mark the basepads of my 11 rounders.. Your idea is a very good one as I've seen a number of shooters fumbling...AT THE LINE...because they grabbed the wrong mag(s). I bought the blue base plates for this very purpose. Now, there is no need to even think twice. Blue base plate is 11 rounds and all others are 10 rounds. Cool...I'm a red kinda guy...do the come in red? What gun are you shooting? If a Glock, I have only seen the black, blue and orange. See here : http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Products.aspx?CAT=190 Yep...Glock 19. Guess Orange is not completely outta the question. (just kidding. Orange will make finding that mag pretty easy)

I was shooting USPSA so I did mark the basepads of my 11 rounders.. Your idea is a very good one as I've seen a number of shooters fumbling...AT THE LINE...because they grabbed the wrong mag(s). I bought the blue base plates for this very purpose. Now, there is no need to even think twice. Blue base plate is 11 rounds and all others are 10 rounds. Cool...I'm a red kinda guy...do the come in red?