hockeyfighter25

I haven't had any problems shooting lead through my limited

Isn't modifying the trigger safety leg an "Externally Visible Modification"?

Both Henning and EGW sell the witness hammer and sear. Are there any differences in Henning's "prepped" (Henning's website says its prepped by EGW) hammer/sear and the hammer/sear that EGW sells?

+1 on the Lyman molds over the Lee ... the Lyman molds take a little longer to get up to temp and have to be stored more carefully, but IMO they cast better bullets.

I had the performance center do their action package on my M&P45 and have the apex sear in my M&P 9. I think the apex sear is better than the performance center package. The feel is about the same for both, but the apex sear gives a lighter pull. Also you will have to pay to ship your M&P both to and from smith so the price will be closer to $175.

I don't think so. The Atlanta club match is usually on the fourth Sunday, and there is a match at Riley (Terre Haute, IN) this Sunday.

For the first couple of matches (at least) a newbie doesn't really need any more challenges than necessary. The theory of needing better hits in Production is slightly flawed. At the 2009 Nationals Max shot 93.3% of the available points 1429 out of 1530 to win Open. Bob Vogel shot 92.2% of the available points, 1411 out of 1530 to win Production. Those numbers are pretty typical. Yes, a B, C or D is one point less shooting Minor, but you still have to get in the 95%(ish) range to win regardless of what division you're shooting...that means just a few less B,C and D hits, not a wholesale change. Edit to add: The 2008 numbers were similar. 95.5% of the points won Open and 94.1% of the points won Production. I have to slightly disagree, below are the number of A, B, C, D, M for production (Bob V.) and open (Max) for the 2009 Nats. Bob shot ~20% more alphas than Max. A's Bob - 267 => Max - 225 B's Bob - 5 => Max - 4 C's Bob - 32 => Max - 69 D's Bob - 2 => Max - 6 M's Bob - 0 => Max - 2

I had one of the p6's. It was a great gun the only problem I had was getting the factory magazines at a reasonable price. I think it is about perfect size if you want a concealed carry gun just big enough to get a full grip. The promags will work if you tune them a little bit. The follower is loose in the mag (front to back) and needs shimmed to run reliably ... IIRC the part of the follower that hits the slide stop also needs modified.

There's one on gunbroker. (not my listing) http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=170177436

I got one used off the forum ... its much better than no mag-well. I can't compare to the other mag wells because I haven't tried them.

Although I would buy one in a heartbeat, a .40 Spartan may never come to the table as it could greatly effect the Trojan sales .. I don't understand. Don't you have to know sti's profit margins to know if this is a bad thing. If still sells the Spartan at a bigger margin why would they care.

I did and found the following. Its the standard full size not a 5". http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=163815613

Call "Indiana Gun Club" and see if they have any in stock. I just got 4lbs of solo1k from them. Plus you can pick it up and save the hazmat.

I've also had minimal leading with solo and cast lead bullets (125gr RN cast from wheel weights and water droped). Something easy to try is to drop the bullets out of the mold into water, this will bring the hardness up a little bit.

I don't know the date when they started putting the new strikers in M&P's, but it should be easy to check. Just pull back the slide and look at the striker. If it's all silver, it's probably the new version.

Midway also has them in stock, item# 466044.

If you are buying your lead I wouldnt worry about it too much. Try some and see if you get leading. If you do then you should look into slugging your bore to see if you can use a larger diameter bullet.

Ok I have read it and i agree with you 100%. Now here is my question to NROI. The user manual from my new GP6 says "...release the hammer slowly and gradually until it rests on the firing pin stop." it refers to this as "Safety Mode" If the rules require you to be hammer 100% down and not in "safety mode" and an accident happens, such as a dropped gun from the holster with an AD and injuries, are we opening ourselves up to any liability???? I would ask the nroi because there was a ruling about how cz's that decock to half cock are allowed. http://www.uspsa.org/rules/nroi_rulings.php?action=edit&indx=30

I've had good luck with Stonewall bullet co. and he always seems to have the best prices. ($63/k delivered) http://www.marlinowners.com/forums/index.php?topic=23847.0

I did not intend to mislead anyone - I shoot with irons in Production. You are right about the accuracy not being affected, but I am worried about the trigger pull. Could I make it better by fitting the slide to the frame? (Please note that I have already done the Burwell DIY trigger job.) The side to side play should not affect the trigger pull much. If you want to tell the difference in trigger pull from the up and down play, dry fire it once then push down on the back of the slide and dry fire it again. This will give more striker sear engagement and possibly a slightly heavier pull. I also have found if you take out too much overtravel with a trigger job this extra engagement can keep the striker from releasing.

If you don't mind not being able to shoot magnum, I would get one of the m15's from j&g and get some work done on it. http://www.jgsales.com/index.php/handguns/smith-wesson/cPath/16_211

The smoke is not too bad I usually only notice in the morning when the sun is coming up and in my face. I actually use the round nose non-tumble lube bullet. Edited to add picture of rn.

It may not make a difference, but here is a picture of a loaded round at 1.125. That doesn't look very short throat friendly. Thanks. Did you try the Liquid Alox? Did you not like it? I was kinda happy to think about not having to size and just doing tumble lube. Yeah I use liquid xlox (bulk alox). That is all I have used because I don't have a lubrisizer, but I don't see a reason to switch because xlox works fine. I do tumble lube then Lee push through size so its not faster than a lubrisizer for me.

It may not make a difference, but here is a picture of a loaded round at 1.125.

I would go with the round nose mold (non tumble lube). I have both and the tc mold has a long tumble lube area. Because of this when loading at 1.135 length, the crimp ended up in the tumble lube groves. This may not be a problem, but I like the crimp to be on a solid part of the bullet. (iirc with the tc tl mold we adjusted the seating depth so that the crimp ended up on one of the tl ridges)