Mo Zee

That's not a bad idea, thanks! I will try to call them tomorrow.

Sorry for resurrecting this thread. I need to change the Click Switch on a cmore, (I have the replacement with me) and for the life of me I cannot figure out how to get the switch off. Now before you guys start with the "shipping back to cmore", the problem I have is I am in South Africa and although returning it is not a problem, the shipping back to me is, due to the export permit that Cmore needs to apply for on my behalf. I am not willing to send it to them and then obviuosly cant get it back for some arb reason. Please help!

You can probably ROI that $600 investment on the $$$ savings in brass alone, especially if 38SC is getting scarce in South Africa. Can your source Shuemann barrels in SA? Might be less expensive to go for a 9mm Shuemann barrel and get a comp made locally, if you have a good smith in the area. Barrels as well as good gunsmiths are scarce. period. It looks like I will bite the bullet and purchase the Trubor Barrel. thanks for all the replies and expect a few more posts in the near future for more info once the top end is built.

Thanks for the responses thus far. Would I still have issues if I have the OAL at about 1.17 inches? I received pricing on an STI trubor barrel today. Equates to about 600USD Maybe I should just stick to supercomp, although I suspect in the near future I will be having problems purchasing new brass here in sunny South Africa.

I have tried the search function but cannot find the answer. Perhaps I need some lessons in searching. I have been tinkering with the idea of running 9 major this year but before I invest in money and time I wanted to paly around with it. I know that 9mm is a tapered case compared to the straight walled super case, but is there a possibility to shoot them in my gun? With regards to reloading can I use my super dies from dillon or do I just need to swap out the sizing die? Any information will be appreciated.

The windage guide pin is loose on a new cmore railway and has backed out about 3mm. I have a match tomorrow and would like to find out if I can screw it back in. If I do will this affect the zero on the sight? I hope not as I do not have the time to zero it before the match. Can I use some locktite on it or just screw it in? One last think, what exactly does the pin do? Does it keep the plate that moves left and right aligned?

I have a new STI gun that has about 600 rounds through it. I also have a bat h of shells that is about 2 years old. Are they any problems if I use old brass in the gun? Secondly, if I pull out my new batch of brass can I use them in my 4 year old STI as well or do I need to keep them separate? That particular gun probably has about 15 000 rounds through it.

Thanks for the replies guys. I will see if I can find some lighter heads to experiment with.

I have a 4.5" shorty that has been built by a local smith. I usually shoot a 170PF with a 121 copper or 123 lead bullet. The gun currently has a 9lb spring. Should I shoot the gun as is at the steel challenge or should I drop the charge? What PF should I look at and can I use the same recoil spring or should I replace with a lighter one?

POint taken. I have measured the new and old one and found the new to be 11#. Not 11# exactly but close enough. I hhave not tested the gun as yet and hope to do so tomorrow. Will report back.

Hey Guys, decided to surface this thread. It was the only one I could find on the forum that relates to the Benelli 121 M1. I can get my hands on one. HOw are these in IPSC 3 gun? Are they reliable and is there anything to look out for? I also believe that a button needs to be depressed when loading the tube to get the shell lifter to raise. Would this be a problem for speedloading?

After reading through some of the posts in the search function I found that the extractor was some what loose. I am going to try to tighten it up and perhaps try to replace it with an aftec. I will then try the 10lb again to see if that makes a difference. Will report back shortly. thanks for the responses thus far.

Picked up a new STI 5" supercomp pistol. The gun was running a 10 lb recoil spring and I found there were a few stove pipes. SOme guys recommended changing to an 11lb. Worked much better, didnt get any jams. So the question is what is the logic behind this and are there any other suggestions to troublehsoot regarding the stove pipes. Before anyone flames me, I am going to tackle the search function now.

In what respect? Pat Apparently (as I was told by a gunsmith), as the barrel heats up, the holes affect the trajectory of the bullet within the barrel causing the bullet to tumble. My first two shots are usually within the point of aim, however, shots 3,4, and 5, are observed to tumble consistently to the low right. Anyone has had this problem before?? I have only used ported barrels with a very good success rate. I know of a colleague of mine that had tumbles with his super. He ended up slugging the barrel and he found that the gunsmith did not do a very good job when they ported the barrel. There were shards of uncleaned metal which was grazing the bullet and this affected the trajectory and made the bullet tumble. They cleaned it out and that sorted out the problem.

Without going into too much detail I think the difference between the 2 is that the Go *thumb rest [generic]* sits in line with the slide stop. I guess one of the thumb rest experts would provide better insight between them. Personally I have the DAA rest and it works for me, however I wouldnt mind playing around with the Go Gas to see what the difference is (for me that is).

You could try Double Alpha's Grip Kit

Thanks for this. One less thing to worry about.

Thanks - will keep this in mind.

I have had about 10 000 jam free rounds in the gun and dont expect any problems. I would however just like to keep some drop in spares in my bag in case of wear and tear breakages. Are you saying that the barrel links do not break often. Should I even worry about it?

I managed to find this thread. Will play around with it tomorrow, but any other ideas will be well received Link

.

I had my gun built by a reputable smith just not good with the paperwork and cant advise on what barrel link he used in the gun. I measured the slide stop and it comes in about .1995" which to my guess would be a straight .200" replacement. Is that correct? The barrel Links on the other hand are quite tough to measure. I tried measuring it, but cant come out with the correct size. It comes in at about .201 all the way to .205. very inconsistent. Is there anyway to measure this correctly? Where exactly should I be measuring? All the way in or on the edge of the barrel link hole? BTW - The link does not have any numbers so it cant be identified that way.

+1 I have the DAA pads and they allow for easier movement one they are on.

Thanks Dillon, I am in contact with Denis who is sorting out the order for me.

Thanks guys - much appreciated.