AzShooter

According to the new IPSC rule book for Revolver Standard Division Modifications such as weights or other devices to control and/ or reduce recoil are prohibited. I'm not sure, but I think this would eliminate a heavy replacement barrel even though it may be the same length as an OFM barrel

Check to see that the crane locks up tight. When you look at the top of the crane when it is closed there should be no gap between it and the barrel. There should be no dings on the crown of the barrel, the cylinder spins freely, the action works smoothly ( it does not have to be light). I've seen used 625s locally from 500 - 700 dollars. One of the local stores sells new ones for $569. If you plan on shooting IDPA get a 4 inch. If you are going to shoot USPSA or ICORE go with the 5 inch. I find it has better ballance and I enjoy the longer sight radius. After you find the one you want you will probably want to change the grips to fit your hand... have the cylinders chamfered, maybe have the action tuned. From there you can go crazy if you want. Get 100 moon clips from Ranch Products for $25.00 and a demooner tool. Shoot, shoot and shoot some more.

Duh, sounds like another fine "Gunsmith" that just changes springs. Jerry's DVD does not address the lock but here is a hint. My hammer was binding on the spring that holds the lock system in. Remove the spring or stone the hammer, your choice. You will notice where it is hanging up after a number of dry fires. Rebound springs should be replaced and not cut. Order a Black Majic Spring Kit from Vic Pickett and you will get about a 6 lb reliable trigger. Vic's work number is 4809850005. His e-mail address is Vpickett@neta.com.

Yes they do and it's relatively inexpensive. I order mine through NATCHES and it's $99 for an 8 pound container

Congratulations. Now the fun in your life will truly begin.

With the 686 there is no problem with extraction, only on a 625 if you are using 45 acp brass without moon clips would you want a dowel handy.

You can shoot a 625 without moons but you will soon get agrivated because the cases are real hard to get out unless you bring a small piece of dowel with you to extract them.

If it's a good price go with it. There is a slight benefit to the 7 shot revolver during ICORE matches, especially on steel. It gives you that one extra shot you may need that will save you a reload. I like the 6 inch over the 4 because of the sight radious. It's easier for me to pick up and I find it a little more accurate. The only reason I would by a 4 inch is if I shot IDPA but I don't. In USPSA if you shoot minor just be sure to hit mostly A zones and you won't be at any disadvantage. But since the Major scoring will prove to be about a 20% gain over a long match it's worth it. You can always shoot .357s for major and a great load is 158 grn LRN with 13 grains of H-110. It's the beginng load listed in the Lyman Pistol & Revolver Handbook and works great. Just a few hundredths difference in split times between the .357 and 38s. If you are shooting both ICORE and USPSA and can only have one gun I'd go with the 686+. As I said, the extra shot will help you in the long run. I shoot a Model 627 8-shot for ICORE and for Steel Challenge stages but a 625 for USPSA. The .45 has much less felt recoil at major power factor than a .357 does. If you are new to USPSA type shooting go with the .38 and learn what you are doing. You can't go wrong.

The NT version is no longer marketed, but is said to reflect the degree of changes to the core of the operating system[1]. The build number is an internal figure used by Microsoft's developers.

Two words..... DUCT TAPE!

John, don't show up this weekend. There is no match. Robbie has the weekend off for the IRC this year. He said he's always wanted to shoot it but there were always conflicts. His ammo sponsor is Winchester so he will be shooting their ammo, factory loaded. We exchanged guns last night and his trigger is set at about 7 pounds and will reliably set off even the enviromentally safe primers. Last night he shot 9 mm out of his ( Vic's) 38 super. We made up a mini squad of revolver shooters and had a great time. It will be fun to watch his modifications over the next few months and his improvements. BTW his reloads have definately improved since you last saw him John. I'm happy to see Robbie shooting a wheel gun. He's a great guy and a good friend. I took his class on steel shooting last year and was the only revo shooter there. I asked him if it would be a good class and he definately spent time with me on each of the practice stages.

Vic Pickett handles the Black Majic spring kit. You can reach him at Match@icore.org or his home number is listed on the ICORE BOD page. His work number is 480 985 0006

I haven't read Matt's book but his video will help you no matter what you are shooting. Get the first volume There is a lot of great information there. Shooting is shooting. The only difference with a revolver is that the trigger pull is longer and a bit harder but you still have to do everything else right to make the shot. I have found that any book will help if you break it down to yoru specialty.

Just remember the good points.... the second mouse got the cheese.

I found this thread while looking for something else but was intregued. I hope more people will respond to it for the interest in what got everyone going. I started shooting in 1976. I had a revolver and started using that for matches. Learned about speed loaders, loading my own ammo ( with a Lee and a plastic hammer) and had more fun than any other sport activity Ihad tried. We had two clubs in Phoenix at that time, one in Mesa that shot steel and one that shot IPSC. You went to Mesa for speed and Phoenix for accuracy. At that time Kirk Kirkam had just won the first IPSC National Championship and was a great guy to shoot with a learn from. I bought an old Remington Rand 45 after my third match and learned to shoot the auto for a few years but went back to revolver. As long as I do the best I can at a match it doesn't matter where I place. I still enjoy the revolver more than automatics. I get all my brass back. I have people in line behind me to pick up my moons instead of hunting for the few pieces of brass I would get back with the auto. And I get to practice reloading on every stage. You have to do it anyway so why worry? The more reloads there are the better I seem to get. We've come a long way from just shoot what you brung to all these divisions and classes. I'm happy that there are Divisions because I think that has brought so many people to our sport. Everyone likes to be recognized for their accomplishments and they have a choice to pick different styles so that they can find their nitch. There aren't a lot of other sports that give you this availability.

Thanks for all the help.

Champering the cylinder is of great importance to reloading a 625 but let me add that cylinders do not come from the factory like the used to. I have had two 625s where you could still see the tool marks in them and when charging these holes factory ball ammo would not drop in freely. I use a Flex Hone from Brownells and spent a lot of time polishing the inside of each chamber before rounds would just drop in like they should. If you have a 625 try to drop your rounds in and if there is any delay from going completely to the bottom I would add a polishing job to the cylinder or at least have a gunsmith recut each chamber hole. After the cylinder I find grips to be very important to me. I am not satisfied with what comes from any factory and will modify my grips so that moon clips (or speedloaders ) not come in contact witht he grip during unloading and loading. Slowly try to unload your revolver and if the full moon hangs up on the grip without dropping free you need to radious the grip until the moon will just fall. If you are using a speedloader revolver you need to radious the grips until the rounds go straight in and are not affected by the grip. Some grips are contoured out a bit too much on the thumb area and will interfere.

I've been searching the threads to see why 125000 is the minimum allowed power factor but can't come up with the reason. Was this an arbitrary number or is there any specific fact that ammo of less power is unsafe?

I have to second the MPix.com site. I've used them for year for my poster size prints. They also have metalic which is a great print style.

I want to party at Tightloop's house. Good selections.

E-J Brandy seems to be the most popular but any good brandy will do. Last night I spiked min with Knob Creek Whiskey. Yippie. I fell asleep and soon after that.

Order Trigger Job by Jerry Miculeck www.GunVideo.com I think you can also order it through Brownells.com Best video for doing a trigger job.

Folger's coffee containers with the lids back on. Then I mark the plastic on the outside.

Welcome aboard. Bring the wife and kids with you. That will make it easier for you to all enjoy the fun.

I think I may finally try to make a Nationals. Last chance I had was in 85 but I ended up working it. It would be fun to shoot one.