shooting for M

Wolff, but I had to change to a 17lb hammer spring in my STI, but the old one wouldn't work w/any SRP. BTW, changing to Wolff primers has lowered the standard deviation on a few friends loads. Jason

Shooting SS is a blast, never really shot Production except with an HK P2000 with 200PF loads and my duty rig. Don't worry what you start with, you'll probably end up with both anyway, just don't tell you wife, http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...l=how+many+guns 9mm is the chapest ammo out there right now, and even a bit cheaper to load 9 than anything else. Have fun, Jason

I was wondering if anyone has used the wolff spring kit? I Just ordered one, it consists of a striker spring, trigger spring and the safety plunger spring. I don't know if we are going to try one spring at a time, or all three and try it that way. I don't think there will be any problems with the plunger spring. I heard someone talking about the trigger feeling mushy with the trigger spring. Has anyone had reliability issues with the wolff striker spring? I just did the 25 cent trigger job, and am using the Ghost Rocket 3.5 trigger bar with the overtravel stop. Oh, it's on a G35. I hope this doesn't drift this thread too far. Edited to add: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...23&hl=wolff Some good info here on the subject, if you want a quick rudown, it prettty much says "it depends", and experiment and see what works for you and your gun. Jason

Looks like two good choices. I think my choice would be the 35. The grip angle of the 21 SF is closer to the other stuff I shoot, but if I could carry a 35 on duty I'd trade my STI for another 35 set up for USPSA in a heartbeat. I'm not a big fan of the rail on the SF, it's pretty sharp and not really nessecary unless I'm missing something. As for ammo differences, I don't think .40 is underpowered at all, our duty ammo runs about a 200 PF out of my STI. You do get a bit more capacity in the .40, but 15 rounds in a 21 should be enough to get to your rifle, which I hope you have. The best advice I have heard so far is to shoot 'em both and see what you like better, maybe throw a 22 in the mix. About the 22 vs. 35, I really like the 35 better for duty carry, maybe a bit big for plain clothes, but for uniform, why not? They're not much different weight wise and the extra sight radius isn't going to hurt. We in law enforcement are 100% always reacting i.e. behind the curve anyway so why not take whatever advantage we can. Getting a mini whatever to go with it would be a good thng as well, I wish we could carry back-ups. My $.02 Jason

There's a dealer on the forum here somewhere that I'm sure will chime in shortly about Grip tape. I personally like it. I bought a sheet of skateboard tape for the front strap on my 1911, works great, but you have to change it every 10-15,000 rounds or so. A sheet costs about $5 and is enough for about 50-60 guns if that's all you are going to use it for. as for the Die cut stuff, I have a Scotts type grip on my limited gun and love it. There's no way I'm going to try to cut that out of a sheet of skateboard tape. I'm definatley going to order a die cut peice when it's time. As for the wear and tear on your hands, I don't really have much problem. I do shoot quite a bit and have pretty tough hands. When I first put the skateboard tape on my 1911, I ran a flat file accross it a couple time, I thought it was a little rough. After I replaced it the first time it felt great with the full grip. My $.02 Jason

The ONLY downfall I have ever seen about the Taurus is the sights. Know of about 5 of them they all run, the triggers aren't terrible from the factory and they're cheap. I'd buy one if they made one in .40. Maybe I'll buy one anyway, you can never have to many .45's! Jason

Money is probably the biggest factor in what to get to start. What you like/what you want to do is another pretty important one. If your rich, and like open, why not. If money is an issue, like most of us, production is a great place to start, also keep in mind limited 10, and Single Stack. If money is really tight a Glock might be your best bet. A glock 17, 34 or 35 is a great place to start. Do you reload? If you do a glock 35 might not be a bad idea, you can load light for production for now then trick it out and shoot limited/limited 10 later. The biggest problem a lot of shooters have with Glocks is the grip angle, if you are used to shooting another gun, or plan on switching back and forth, an XD or M&P might be a better bet. An equally cheap place to start might be Single Stack, Taurus is making one for about $500 or less if you know where to look, they aren't bad at all. No matter what you get you need to think of the other stuf you'll need: -Magazines at least 5 or 6 esp. for SS, L10 or Production -Glasses -Ammo -Hearing protection -ammo -holster, the Blade Tech DOH is very popular, but an Uncle Mikes will work fine -ammo -magazine pouches, at least four for production/L10, whatever you can use, the Blackhawk CQC pouches are pretty decent -ammo -Belt, CR speed or the Safariland competition is great, but a regular heavy belt will work -Desire to have fun -a copy of the USPSA rule book, the blue one -oh yeah and more ammo If you have a gun, use what you have for now. See what class you might like after your first couple matches. You really can get into this whole thing for well under $1K, but you can also spend as much as you have. Your example about the Bike is absolutely correct. When you are ready for a modificaion you will probably know where to start. If you are going to do anything to whatever gun you choose the best place to start is probably going to be sights and trigger work, again that depends on what you buy The CZ SP01 has good sights, and the triggers are decent as well from what I understand. Welcome to that addiction, have fun! Jason

No no no....that difference comes at match time...keep practicing it. I definately will

Thanks again for all the tips. I tried a couple drills with the holster locked, standing, seated and a running start. There wasn't a noticable time or consistancy difference. I don't think I'll have any problems switching back and forth, I think I'll still start unlocked on the standing stuff, but definately locked on everything else from now on. I hope this thread isn't the reason there's a Limcat in the classifieds now. Jason

Thanks for all the replies. Sounds like starting with the holster locked for odd starts seems to be the best option, I better start practicing. One quick question: If you are sometimes starting with the holster locked, do you always use the unlocking motion in your draw? That seems to be more consistant, or do you actually have two different draw strokes? Thanks, Jason

I made a huge boo boo this past weekend. I switched to Limited class fairly recently and am using a Limcat holster for it. During a match this past weekend I was DQed for dropping a loaded gun. Way my fault, and definately should have been DQed, no arguments, it was definately unsafe. The stage started seated and you had to stand and run to a porch before engaging any targets. As I stood the gun fell out of my holster. With my SS rig I could run all day and it wouldn't fall out so I didn't really think about it. How are you guys dealing with different start positions with the "race" holsters, specifically a Limcat if you are using one. One suggestion from a shooter that was there was to get your hand on the gun before moving at all. That seems logical but also pretty slow. Also, is there a tension adjustment that I might have missed? I have the holster placed about like a DOH with a bit of forward cant. Please save the "Buy a DOH" comments. I know I probably should have, and might in the future, but for now this is what I have and just want to know how I could have prevented this. Thanks in advance, Jason

To the original poster, I assume you have all the info you could want on the Mozambique drill. The other question about the time with the Safariland holster, I assume you mean the one with the rotating hood or veil mounted on the belt. That's what we are using, seems like a decent holster, I am much more consistent from this holster than the traditional thumb break but it took a bit more practice. From this holster a decent time would be around 2 seconds at seven yards, about 1.2-1.4 for the first, .25 for the split and .4 or so for the head transition. These split time will vary according to what weapon you are using, we are currently using the HK P2000, not the fastest trigger reset, but better than some DAO's. I practiced pretty hard to see if I can get under a one sec draw at seven with this holster. I can say it can be done in under 1.0, I got a .78 the other day, but I was definately point shooting, keeping them in the A zone is between .95 and 1.1, but thats just me, and that is also about my average for my single stack rig so I'm sure there are some people on this site that could be in the .7s with A's. Jason

Finding cheap brass. Here's a suggestion, go to your local police department. I bet between local, county, and or state you will be able to find all the 9, 40, and 223 brass you want. Just ast to speak with someone in the firearms department. Tell them you are willing to pick up the brass. this usually ends up as a win/win. Most departments don't know what to do with brass unless that is part of the ammo contract. Plus you picking up the brass, means more training time for them. Just a word of warning, I would bet most of the .223 brass will have crimped primer pockets, but it's still free. Try it, you might be suprised. The only problem now is that a lot of departments are learning that brass is pretty expensive and are just recycling it as scrap. Maybe you could offer them the same as the scrap company would give them, still pretty cheap. Jason

Thanks for all the replies guys. I think that ErickW said it best, people think if your not totally immersed in "pop culture" your just wasting your time. I guess it's all my dad's fault he did such a terrible job raising me. I work, I pay my bills, I have a wife, a son and a hobby that I love. Maybe he should have raised me to be like the rest of the world, me, me, me and whatever some idiot actor on T.V. tells me to do. I'm glad there is palce to go and hang out with other people that have similar values. Plus it's something that's a lot of fun! Jason

I don't know what it is about people and serious shooters. I work in law enforcement so maybe I see this as worse from my peers. I am starting to get pretty serious about competing in USPSA and I am actually getting flack about it from people at work and some friends outside of work. Yes, it takes a lot of time, and yes guns maybe aren't the most socially acceptable things, not that I really care about the latter. This is a sport, a pretty great sport with some great people and pretty stiff competition at any level. Maybe I won't make it to be a "Proffesional" in this sport but if I, or anyone else, works hard enough there is the possibility. I just wonder if I am getting flack because of the detication it takes to do well, is it the actual shooting part or what? I have to say that I know a few Law enforcement officers out there that have no clue that if they went to a match they would have thier @$$ handed to them in a pretty big way. Some are willing to work a bit to help themselves, but most are very happy in thier denial and don't want to hear anything about it. Anyway what's with people's attitude about taking something seriously? Rant off, Jason

What about muffler wrap, like on the old choppers? Just a thought.

Just a quick addition to what a bill drill can help with, trigger freeze! I was having a pretty bad problem with this for a while so I started doing 7yd bill drills, about 3 a week, no trigger freeze since. I probably just jinxed myself, and I'm just a B class shooter, but it has helped with one thing for me. I guess the reason the trigger freeze went away was I stopped "death gripping" the gun. I think it's helped with sight tracking a bit as well. A decent drill is a "Bill drill" at 7, 10, 15, 20, 25 then I usually go back to the 7 and try to burn, but it's not usualy any faster than the first, maybe a bit more accurate though. Jason

Guess I haven't posted here in a while. Doing OK, rereading my goals from starting this I guess I didn't quite accomplish some of my goals, I have realized that making Master in the next year might be seriously pushing it, but I'm still shooting for it, I have had one M classifier, 87% in limited. I have made one goal, sort of, I ended up "C" class in SS and took second, but I would have been 3rd in "B" so I'll say I made that one. I've been a little burned out lately and have been slacking as far as the practice routines go, but still shooting a bit. Finally started shooting my limited gun and loving it. If I make it to L10/Limited nats this year I'm shooting for top 5 B class. New short term goal is to re-read Enos' book and get Steve Anderson's book and start some of the drills there for dry-fire. I think I really need some structure in my practice sessions. Jason

Steel stage: Don't slam me too bad for this, but they used to do this a lot in SASS Matches. 6 targets with the numbers 1-6 on them out of order, i.e. 5.4.6.3.1.2 left to right, on start you roll a die and start on that number. If they were really trying to be sneaky with the second gun you had to engage in reverse order. I ROed one of these stages and nobody dropped the die off the table that I can remember, if your worried about it, you could put a lip on the table. I have no idea if it's legal, sorry, but I don't think anyone would complain if you did it at a local match. I like it, it makes you think as you are shooting, that means I'd probably screw it up, but looks fun. Paper stage: Looks like "pucker factor" from SS nats with a little more thrown in. If you haven't seen that stage the far target was open, then starting from the bottom there was more and more hardcover as the targets got closer, the closest had only the head open. Good stuff Jason

Same here, I've invited quite a few to join, even offering carpooling, ammo and even a gun if they don't want to use thier duty gun. So far only one taker. Jason

There was an article about this that Brazos had on thier website. It stated pretty much what sparky and others have said, but it might be worth a read. Jason

Just shot it today, 3.45 down one, 8.4058 HF. My first classifier over B class!

Something that's been nagging me since my first reply is the ammo thing. Part of you trigger control/calling shot problem might be flinching. 190-200 PF ammo, like most factory .45 probably isn't helping without copious amounts of dryfire. This is just a thought, I am not one to talk about trigger control, just thought I'd bounce that off the rest of you. Reloading might help, if you've got more time than money, you might want to try a single stage, if both are tight, maybe try a Lee press. I'm not trying to talk you out of a Dillon, I've got a 650 and wouldn't give it up at gunpoint, but they ain't cheap. I guess you get what you pay for, but Lee presses really aren't all that bad, if your not loading more than 1K a month, they'll last a long time. Either way if you are going to practice a lot they'll pay for themselves in a fairly short amount of time, plus you can load what you like. If you aren't concerned about shooting lead you should be able to load 1K for less than $100 if you buy in bulk, and have brass. I don't know what you are paying for factory, but I doubt you are paying less that $100 for 500 rounds. Now reloading isn't really cheaper, it just lets you shoot more, just ask around. Anyway, do what you like, I hope I have been helpful in your dillemma. Now I'm up to $.04 Jason P.S. Another thought might be to ask a friend for the use of thier loader from time to time. That gives you someone to help that know what they are doing and saves money for the time being. A fair payment would probably be some components, or some cold ones to share after the loading is done. $.06

I don't know much about HK's for competition, so take this for what it's worth. There is a modified "LEM" trigger for competition you might want to look into, unless that's what yours has. Just keep shooting, and save some cash, and let a new gun be a reward for something, like, making C class, or B class, you might appreciate it more that way. The guy that took second at Area 2 L-10 was using an HK with this type of trigger, and he is a Master class shooter, he beat a lot of us using 1911's. There may not be much in the way of parts selection for an HK, but it's what ya got, so use it. Just my $.02 Jason

I have to say I had a great time! As for WSSS being a more fun match, I don't know, they were both pretty dang fun. I think that nationals was deceptively easy, there were some places you could get in a lot of trouble if you pushed too hard. I do think that there was a better mix of stages, and some really neat field courses at WSSS and as far as thinking there was definately more there than at nats. You kind of have to think that historically there has been a 24 round stage limit at SS nats, and that does limit the feild courses. 13 stages was kind of short, but I don't know about more than that in one day. Rumor is that next year will be different, maybe more stages, and shooting more than one day. I too was very suprised that there wasn't a box or scale at the chrono, but I guess we found out the reason for that. I'm sorry to hear the Z's scores weren't fixed right away, but mistakes happen and at least the score was fixed. Hope to make it again next year. Jason