MemphisMechanic

I assume you mean the "Apex Grade" Semi Drop-in barrel, or SDI barrel. Yes. A lot of us are running one. Cliffnotes: If your gun doesn't shoot 130+ gr bullets tighter than 4-5 inches at 25 yards, it helps a lot. If you shoot light bullets (with good groups) or yours groups 3 inches or less, skip it. Fitting it takes a few hours but it actually quite easy. Run a search and you'll find a half dozen posts discussing it at length.

EDIT: Deleted because issue no longer exists.

I already posted there. I'm definitely down for a pair.

Careful. You're making yourself look bad to a whole lot of potential customers here. When I have a choice between a polite vendor and one who turns into a d**k like Mark Larue used to do on various AR platforms at the slightest sign of criticism... I don't own any Larue optic mounts, and never will. Let your product speak for you, ARy. That was working pretty well up to this point.

I'd have to echo what MarkCO is after with the heart of his post: A truly good stage won't turn off a new shooter due to it's insane level of complexity... or an extremely high level of difficulty. That means I try to take it easy on memory stages: I think having to remember that there's ONE target you have to shoot from X and ONE target you have to shoot from Y is great, and I like having the option to skip targets in order to manage my loads efficiently in Production and then come back to them later on. But novices shooters can still just toss a flat-footed reload in there to get things done more simply. We've all been through the wringer with nightmare memory stages - at the end of the day, keep it a test of shooting skill. Not cognitive abilities. A truly good stage also won't bore the A through GM guys either. That means some difficulty is required. You might give the shooter two positions to engage an array with a noshoot-partial on a drop-turner: One deletes eight seconds of sprinting forward and then backing out, but gives a GM hard enough shots to make it fun. The novice can just sprint forward and hose 'em down and also have a blast. Just one example which comes to mind. I said "difficulty" is what keeps the top guys coming back, but really I think options are more important. I always see them enjoying themselves the most on stages where the A-thru-GM shooters will shoot the stage several different ways. The fundamental layout of the stage is a big factor in making things FEEL different: Two stages might have nearly identical arrays and shooting positions, but if one involves advancing straight down the middle of the bay with your gun and mags on barrels and the second has a wide shooting area making that movement lateral while starting facing uprange... they certainly don't seem like duplicates. Even if it's the same # of steel and same basic engagement order.

this is what I was going to suggest. I don't know if it would help in this situation, but it really helped me with double-vision issues and the visual clutter and confusion that results from not having a strongly dominant eye. It is way more comfortable than closing 1 eye and i can still use my left eye for peripheral vision and movement. A third for this technique. I actually use either sunscreen or chapstick smeared on the lens for the same effect as scotch tape, but it isn't quite as opaque. My eyes are VERY nearly 50/50 on dominance, and my shooting took a quantum leap after I gave up on both eyes being fully open and unobstructed, and blurred one lens slightly, and I've shot that way ever since. Works great for me with irons. Give it a try. You still get peripheral vision and enough of a view to aid in acquiring targets and to give yourself depth perception (the primary benefits to keeping both eyes open) but for anything requiring precision the brain pretty much ignores the blurry eye's input. Or so it seems.

Confirm that it isn't ammo related. Have you shot factory ammo through the gun? Have you changed striker springs recently?

The Prince stuff (for tennis players) performs just like Pro grip and is easy to find on Amazon Prime.

The extreme has shorter, repositioned hooks, correct ARy? Affects both pull weight and length of pull in SA - right?

You know those tri-folding decorative Japanese screens? Two of them side by side make a six foot long wall, which is just long enough to work on an explosive exit and a smooth entry. Or two rooms in a hallway close together with one easy target (close paper) or one hard target (mini popper at simulated 20y) at each end. I find going back and forth three or four times to be much MUCH more helpful than just doing it once and resetting for another pass. These make for the fastest, most versatile walls ever: http://m.homedepot.com/p/Home-Decorators-Collection-3-Panel-Natural-Fiber-Room-Divider-in-Natural-Finish-R531/202977619?cm_mmc=SEM%7CTHD%7CG%7C0%7CG-Base-BT3-PLA%7C&gclid=CL_q9eKnq84CFUUcaQoddwAKgw&gclsrc=aw.ds

Gotcha. In that case you SHOULD have followed the bigger shooter's stage plans. Ignore my previous advice! If you can't execute the plan consistently 90%+ of the time (long shots, awkward leans, having to set up 13.2mm away from point X to engage a target through a tiny hole...) it's a bad plan. You learned something - consistency wins. Those long and awkward positions are "hero or zero" situations. Put two or three stage plans like that into a match, and you'll find Deltas, Mikes, or no shoots with a shot or two. Effective stage plans are ones you can consistently run. Straightforward ones.

No chrome on Stock IIIs, just terrible blue which wears off and rusts like crazy after a few matches. I missed the rail! My brain saw a silver gun - even though this is exactly what I'm planning to do! - and automatically said "that's a Stock 2."

Don't get sucked into the "shoot the stage the way the M's are shooting it" trap. They know what they can hit, and how long it will take them. They know if they can take a target near a noshoot at 10 yards on the move and they have the patience not to break that shot until they'll get a clean hit. That might even mean aborting their movement and hitting the brakes long enough to get that hit. Younger guns usually don't - they'll settle for a hopeful sight picture and, well, hope. Plan like a less skilled shooter. Get as close as you can to each target. Especially when there's a noshoot nearby. Sprint faster than you currently jog, set up efficiently, shoot, downshift, and haul it out of there. Avoid shooting on the move unless you know you can hit A's and close C's almost as quickly as you can do it stationary. Shooting on the move usually shaves only 0.5-1.0 seconds, so it doesn't pay off in many cases if your hits suffer. Shooting clean is mandatory. Shooting fast is preferable. Notice which one of those has a higher priority. You don't seem pissed enough at your inaccuracy. Anything that isn't an A/B/C should be regarded as a total pooch-screwing in Production. Both because of minor, and because the make up shots you SHOULD be taking to fix this can jack with your stage plan. You had two flat-footed reloads that may have been avoidable - hard to tell from video. A standing reload is roughly equivalent to a mike. Avoid at all costs. Just remember, in Production you go as fast as you can, but you have to have the points. Otherwise you can make it to the endzone ahead of your buddies and look great on youtube... but you left the football back at the 20 yard line. It doesn't count.

WST is hilariously soft behind a 147. 231 a bit snappier but shoots just fine.

Oh hell yes - cerakote. Looks good, but I'm sure others will be horrified you media blasted that beautiful hard chrome off of your baby. I'm assuming that those photos are with and without flash - hence the shift in color. Also, are those the factory wood grips given an epoxy / aluminum oxide treatment? I'm actually staring at 10 color swatches they sent me (5 darkest blues and their silvers/grays) as I pick a color scheme for my Stock 3. Sky Blue is currently my favorite, along with one of the stainless hues in a two-tone sceme. Blue grips and slide, silver elsewhere. But two different grays - stainless and tungsten perhaps - with black controls/hammer/grips is also sounding attractive. Sky Blue isn't nearly as annoyingly "bright blue" as it looks in this photo. It's much less of a toy gun color than it appears to be here.

One more thing on reloads for production. For some reason most newer production guys want to figure out where to stick their reloads first. If you give them 5 minutes of walk through, they spend half of that precious time, or more, figuring it out. Stop doing that. Ben Stoeger got onto us for this during his class. "Once you figure out what you need to shoot from where, the reloads will take care of themselves." I had never tried to do any differently, so I was going back and forth between two different ways to reload between positions 1 and 2 ... before I ever looked at position 5 or 6. He's absolutely right. Plan the stage out in the simplest, most efficient manner as if you have an unlimited round gun. Once that's done it'll be absurdly obvious where to place your reloads. Reloads are figured last.

Sure. I stagger-loaded then in a mag with factory 147gr HST, and the only difference was a bit more muzzle flash on an indoor range. Felt and sounded the same.

Sarge, My personal beliefs on the "should I load my own carry ammo" are quite strong. But he asked for help with regard to chrono-ing it - not to be validated or lectured on the practice in general. Unlike the rest of the Internet, I chose to provide the info I have that is relevant to his question, and trust him to be an adult with regard to whether it is a good idea or not. You know, that whole 'personal responsibility' thing. ;-)

Oh. And that load at the top of my spreadsheet? The only 115gr load? Recoils just like HST if you want to make "recoils like my carry ammo" practice ammo.

HST is a highly effective self defense bullet. He wants them to go fast enough to open effectively if, god forbid, he ever needs them.

Also. When you're new, choose the simplest plan you can possibly conceive. In the example given above, even having to perform a standing reload to shoot targets A-D early on would have been better than failing to engage target D later on! If the plan you have chosen isn't something that YOU personally can perform perfectly more than 90% of the time after rehearsing it, then it isn't the right plan to use. Even GM ranked shooters will often opt to shoot stages in different ways. One might choose to take targets while moving while the other sprints, stops, and shoots. The longer you shoot the more you get to know your own strengths - don't forget that when you watch the fast guys shoot. IMO, a novice shooter SHOULD NOT be shooting the same stage plan as the top guys when the stage is complex. Not until you've learned to commit a long series of actions to memory, that is.

Well. This certainly isn't snake oil, Chad. Last week life got busy, and I got lazy, and skipped the exercises four days straight. The pain came right back to original intensity quite rapidly. I've been doing the exercises the past two nights, and the pain is already fading. Weights have been 15/15/20 for the weights on the wrist curls/raises and 20/20/30 on the first two exercises.

See the bottom line, if you're interested in what the factory load would do from a Glock 19's shorter barrel. I didn't bother writing anything down regarding ES or SD because I only ran five rounds over the chrono. I don't consider fewer than ten shots to be a large enough sample.

No argument here on that one!

Oftentimes pins like that one (or the solid extractor pins on M&Ps before they switched to roll pins) need one extremely hard blow to shock them loose before the head of the pin begins to mushroom inside the hole and lock itself in place. We aren't used to really, really swinging a hammer at firearms, but sometimes it doesn't hurt.