MemphisMechanic

If you shoot the gun left handed (feel free to use both hands if you like, still) does the gun still shoot to the same side, or do the groups move to the opposite side?

WWB 115gr was 141pf out of my Glock 34 a few years back. Just a random data point for you. If you can find some factory 124 or 147 loads you'll be even better off.

Better yet, compare them to an XD, M&P, or a Glock. My M&P 9L is a 26 oz gun. The Tanfoglio Stock 3 I'm switching to? 43oz. There's only a few ounces difference between those CZ models, really. Compare an SP-01 to a polymer-framed gun and you might see a little more.

Try something simple: At your next match, consider the A and C zone cumulatively to be one big "down zero" zone and hammer the targets there as quickly as you can. Thats the simple answer. The complicated one is that it depends on the stage's hit factor. Lots of movement, an unloaded start, and low round count all in the same stage will drag down the hit factor. In that there is lots of "non trigger" time, and thus points matter more. Your hit factor could be 5 or lower. ...But most local matches like to set up hoser stages or high-round-count stages with hit factors higher than 6 to 10. Then, it's time to crank up the speed and go for broke. That means (in oversimplified terms) a shooter was earning 6 to 10 points per second, which means shooting lots of holes in cardboard really fast. Look at the hit factors the previous (good) shooters are earning. That will tell you how to approach the stage... but honestly right now you simply have to learn to shoot much faster than you currently do. This is why those of us who were IDPA Masters and who had multiple 1st Place Master State Championship awards... Came into USPSA as C-class shooters. Our standard for 'speed shooting' was actually really low. (IDPA is a fixed, low hit factor. The points are always massively important.)

On the first, I agree wholeheartedly as an M&P shooter. Mine was one of the worst early ones - 7" groups with 147s at 25yd were common. Sidenote: I loved the lefty ergos, so I gambled on an Apex (hand-fitted) barrel. Now it's a 2" gun with the exact same load. The night and day difference that made at matches was unbelievable. Especially on swingers and 15yd partials at speed. Finish is 'important stuff' for you. Interesting. Because none of my guns have any left on the slide (G34, M&P) and I like them like that. They're tools, not showpieces, and I'll drop one on a muddy tabletop for a stage start without a second thought. I just shifted to a new Production gun for the third time. I jumped from Glock to M&P for full left handed controls without shifting my grip. Now I'm jumping to the Tanfoglio Stock III because it fits my hand like it was made just for me, shoots really softly, and is outrageously accurate. Also because... bandwagon. It also gives me something to tinker with, cerakote, and to practice with like mad until I actually get better.

"ARs are like Legos" has long been something I've said myself. The Same is mostly true about more mainstream guns like Glocks - it won't be production legal, but you can build a Glock (from an 80% lower) without using a single factory Glock part! Those options have popped up now for CZs in the past few years, and 2016 has definitely been a red-letter year for Tanfoglio owners!

The search term you're looking for is "MGM spinner"

I wasn't talking about you. I was talking about the guys on page 1. Its easy to settle - you're probably both right. For yourselves, anyway. That's why it's great we have so many options popping up for Tanfos - used to be hard to locate any parts or any information on them. Just a few months ago.

The lighter Henning pin has been conclusively proven here on BE to have a harder time setting off primers than the heavier stock / EGD Xtreme pins - which are identical aside from a chromed coating and the rear of the pin where the hammer strikes.

I can see that. Question is, does the nose-heavy bias of the Sh2 and S-III feel cumbersome to you? My Stock 3 is a nose heavy, weighty pig. And it feels good to me, but others who have fondled have felt differently.

So far I find the safety on the Stock 3 perfectly positioned to ride, although I haven't shot a match with it yet. If they made a production-legal version that was a few mm wider on each side, I'd seriously think about it. While you guys are arguing about where your thumbs should be, most of us on the outside are thinking: "Everyone's hands are different sizes and there are several equally valid ways to grip a gun. Of course you guys want to do different things to make the gun fit you!" You can stop arguing now.

Bump, a good older thread on springs that should be read by the newer guys!

My personal shopping list. I'm opting to skip the Titan hammer and will potentially install it at a later date. Run the factory firing pin. This is for a stock III, so you'd need the shorter guide rod and spring for an S-II. S3 build $39 Dawson front $4. XP extractor spr $9. Recoil spring 8lb or 10 $10. PD hammer spring $9. PD FP Spring $4. PD sear spring $60? Holster body from Ben's Pro Shop $90. Magazines (6) from CDNN $40 Guide rod $46. Bolo Disconnector $35. Sear $15. Xtreme FP Block

Take an IDPA target to the range and, in slow fire, experiment with just how far your sights have to be misaligned to shoot a -1 if you're indexed through them at the "0" printed in the Dead center of the target. The results will surprise you. You can nearly have the front post out of the notch in all 4 directions at around 5-7 yards and still shoot a 0 - if you do so while pulling the trigger straight back! The trigger press becoming a trigger yank is the actual reason most of us miss at speed. It isn't usually sight alignment - at least, not on it's own.

Wolf / Tula / Winchester? Winchester is softer than the rest of those, from my experience. Haven't tried Fioccchi.

Is that the wooden or EGD grip covered with skateboard tape? (before everyone else comments on the safety)

Classifiers eat a lot of time with draws, turning draws, transfers to weak-hand from holster, and mag changes. The faster those things are, the more time you have to point the gun at the A-zone and shoot.

Had to resize image to upload.

How many of you have tested the ammo you're using for plunk AND spin before condemning the primers or striker spring as the issue? M&Ps have rather short chambers. Many bullet profiles loaded to typical lengths like 1.125" will actually be in the rifling, and not clear of it. Part of your striker force will be 'stolen' driving the bullet into the rifling until the case rim hits the bottom of the chamber, where it was supposed to be in the first place. Plunk = drop round into barrel after field stripping. It needs to fall in all the way, freely. spin = It should sling freely with your fingertips, showing that the bullet isn't engaging the rifling. Once I reamed the APEX barrel in my gun to accept the fattest profile bullets all the way out to 1.150"... even with a reduced power striker spring it will set off anything I load that is below flush. Even CCI Magnum primers. The gun is no longer picky at all. With a beautifully short 2.75lb trigger pull, too:

In USPSA shooting Major, you need to be fast enough that most of your hits at 7 yards and beyond are spreading out in the A zone, due to the speed you're shooting. You'll drop some C's. They don't hurt NEARLY as much in USPSA as a -1 does in IDPA. (IDPA is scored more similarly to shooting minor in USPSA - you have an advantage in points in USPSA that you've never had before) Your gun should never lock open unless there is absolutely no way to avoid it. Find places to change mags whenever possible while moving. Try not to 'post up' for anything inside of 10 yards if you can avoid it. Get out in the middle of the doorway and hose the targets down without quite coming to a stop. Stay low, feet wide, make sure you would get called for COVER! as badly as possible on every single shot. The movement is probably hurting you a lot - stay as far away from the walls as possible.

I have a friend who did all of his own witness holes in his 2011 mags. Worked great. His procedure was to load the desired number of rounds into the mag, then put masking tape over the top of the feed lips, and gently clamp it in a vise upside down. Pull the basepad/spring/follower and you can stick a dowel rod down against the bottom round, mark it, and use it to transfer that measurement to the outside of the mag body on either the side or the back,. Then simply drill a hole a bit above that mark. Pro tip: Remove your ammo before drilling holes in the mag body. ;-)

I have the same grips on my Stock 3. I love the feel so much that they're getting the epoxy & 60grit aluminum oxide treatment to make them black & grippy. Grips are (obviously) the one thing no two people with the same gun will agree upon.

So if you want to add a slightly heavier magazine basepad and still have a margin of error in case their old & busted scale reads heavy, it's time to find some helium-filled grips. Got it.

How's the weight? How much do you have to spare in SSP?

Devil's advocate: Would it be acceptable to start facing uprange, muzzle indexed on dirt, finger off trigger if you were holding a handgun? Why treat a gun with a longer barrel and a stock any differently? The 180 is the 180 is the 180. That's always been this sport's most holy safety rule. (I'm guessing the above is USPSA's reasoning) Why start "stock on belt?" Well, because one of the other starting positions USPSA has experimented with in this provisional division has been 'port arms' and that is the easiest way to consistently enforce such a starting position. Much like they simply require "wrists above shoulders" with handguns. Rather than try to make it look like a genuine surrender position, they use language that doesn't require RO's to subjectively decide how much you can game your hand positioning. Remember, they're trying different things to see which ones work best in PCC. If and when they adopt the division permanently, they'll know which ones proved solid and which ones crashed and burned.