MemphisMechanic

Are you working on a stock2, @Sniperboy ? Yes the Limited Pro comes with a one piece sear and the extended firing pin block, from what I've been told.

It does add appreciable thickness to the gun. Doing both wood grips on my Stock 3 added about 1/8" to the overall width of the gun. If you grind down until a checkered or factory stipples surface is smooth, it'll bed up about the same thickness that it was before.

So... the Russians will be fielding a fleet of them at World Shoot?

How much do the grip screws weigh? The recoil spring? Myabe you guys can run a plastic sear and sear housing to shave weight. What about dremeling off the hard chrome? Let us know how much lighter that makes the gun, if you don't mind.

Personally I'd want that in writing from Robert Ray before I went grinding on a $900 gun *if* I wanted to shoot IDPA major matches and *if* I were in contention for the win. Getting disqualified for the particular screws used in my holster at an IDPA State match with one stage left to go, and working on one of the 10 best scores in the entire match, I know exactly how fun that is not.

Was just saying that I've shot or dryfired the guns of Bob Vogel, Dave Sevigny, and Stoeger. They all have average (or downright bad, in Sevigny's Glock) triggers and they practice more than anyone. Hmm. If we wanna get better that means it's probably a good idea to put the dremel down. But I get it! Playing with triggers and springs is more enjoyable than dryfiring to me, too.

Psst. New guy! Can you edit that into something more coherent? And Merry Christmas, Tanfo lovers! PD firing pins for everybody! ... everyone who paid for one, anyway...

@Jeff O I would disagree with that assertion. @PatriotDefense is trying to keep excessively perfectionist cumstomers happy. He has to keep his advice tailored to that, whereas I do not. I'll try to explain what's up... For the record, there's some slop in the trigger with the factory pin, Bolo, and Titan. Not much, but what "pretravel" is left all shows up in the fit of the two trigger pins allowing the trigger to rock on them slightly. The Canik pin does double that play, though there still is very little by my way of thinking: Frankly I'd be surprised people even think to bring it up to PatriotDefense as a possible problem, if I didn't know a lot of gun guys who self-gunsmith. "Anal" is an understatement. Its all in your mindset. Sitting at a bench hunched over a Tanfo frame for hours, it's easy to lose sight of the fact that you won't shoot the gun any better with 1/64" of wiggle, versus the 1/16" or so that I have. My trigger is better than Ben Stoeger's. I've checked out his gun in person, so I can promise you that's a fact. But I can't out shoot him, because he's probably done twenty hours of dryfire for each hour I spent polishing and tinkering in December alone. If the PD heavy firing pin gets me to 100% DA with my sometimes poorly seated CCIs, I'll be done playing, and gearing up to practice enough to make M class with it in 2017! Watch my video and look at where I first cock the hammer and wiggle the trigger. That's what we are referring to. It's a molehill. Not a mountain.

It's been 6 months with bullets out for me... and when I switch back to bullets forward, my loads are still instantly improved. I need to dryfire more, and I'm still convinced bullets forward is inherently more ergonomic.

I quit shooting IDPA when "never make it up unless you're sure it's a -3" was sound advice for intermediate shooters. That would be one interesting aspect of the new rulebook: Everything is now worth making up, unless you've physically committed to exiting the shooting position. Poor excuse for "defensive style shooting" in my mind. I'd take two smoking fast -1 hits on my attacker before he can get a shot off, any day.

RangerTrace was giving you the gift of sarcasm, v1991. Its rude not to accept it.

Only if you shoot a Shadow or some heavy breed of STI. Show up with a Glock or an M&P or a 75B or a Tanfoglio Limited Pro or a traditional flavor of 1911 and you can win without drama. Mostly. As long as the ROs like you and you wear the right brand of vest. Just remember, whatever you do, let the Wilson Combat drivers win. Unless you want to be at 3 seconds per point down in 2018.

That... is just plain sexy.

I've been using a $30-40 Lyman digital for almost 10 years now. It's always done the job just fine. Biggest too I can give you in accurate measuring is to use individual drops to get close to the charge weight you want... then take 5 to 10 drops, put them in the pan together, and average them. Even a cheap scale is quite accurate when used this way. And as long as you're always using the same powder measure and scale and you chronograph your ammo, you'll never have much trouble working up a load.

I was speaking more generally than specifically. I shoot with a pair of Pivothead glasses recording, as well as a phone slapped on a tripod somewhere to give me another angle. I agree that the first angle can be useful for observing jams and gaping shooting errors - like you mentioned. However the outside views are what make you faster and motivate you to clean up your movement, draw, and reloads. The big things that move you up in classification, which you can't see from first person videos.

It was also a double slap to the face, as a master was taken out by an inaccurate expert. *cough cough* Arkansas State 2015 *cough cough* And yes, Wayne was CCP division champ.

I use no slave pin. I use the method outlined in the video of the Australian guy tearing it down and reassembling on YouTube. Hold the trigger spring in place with needle nose pliers and run the pin through it. Its cake with that badass Canik pin that all of you should be running. "Trigger wobble." Like you're going to notice that crap in the middle of an El Prez. Or even a 20yd plate rack.

Hatcams are for making videos that entertain your friends. And that's all. A cheap little $15 bendy-legged tripod to mount your cellphone in is a huge asset in matches. This one worked well for my iPhone 6plus all season long: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017NA7V1U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SDZxybVH1H04X That will let you stand your phone up downrange on a barrel, or wrap it around a wall or target stand with a good view of most of the stage. I think it's even more helpful than having your buddy film you from behind. Since, you know, you can get the front view of live fire. Just don't shoot your phone.

Shrugs I'm using the Cajun trigger pin for a Canik. Didn't look at anything else. Someone on the internets told me it'd work.

The wiggle doesn't bother me. The benefit is only in ease of disassembly. It pushes right out of the gun with the heel of your palm behind a punch. Aside from tapping the roll pin out of the right side of the ambi safety, you don't need to drive any pins out of the gun in order to detail strip it for cleaning.

With 500 rounds through gun after the second round of polishing - a grand total of around 1,500 rounds - the trigger weight has come down a bit: (14lb PD hammer spring. PD springs at trigger, sear, firing pin. Bolo. Titan hammer.)

I believe IDPA has a clause in the rulebook that states they must be removable without unthreading your belt.

Red loctite here. I'd rather have to remove the trigger and heat it to get my set screw out than have to deal with it working loose in the middle of a major match. I did just finally reinstall it today, however. Once the gun crested the 1,000 round mark with the new parts and I knew I was done tweaking. Before that it was left out so I'd have one less variable to trip me up. I crank it in until a slow DA pull won't quite drop but a fast one will, then back it out one entire revolution.

As long as no one knows you modified your frame. That's verboten in SSP. So stop telling the whole internet.

http://forums.brianenos.com/index.php?/topic/240814-silicon-carbide-on-factory-grips/&do=findComment&comment=2682755