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MemphisMechanic

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Everything posted by MemphisMechanic

  1. There was nothing this in-depth until I posted these last week. There is a short pair of videos done by a guy in Australia which showed me how to disassemble and reassemble... But if you aren't mechanically inclined they're not nearly as helpful: I included a lot of close-ups, and function tests along the way to ensure you've put it together correctly.
  2. If you want to fill your mags and only load 1-2 times, go with Limited minor and you can then position gun & mags anywhere. If you want to shoot Production you need to download mags to 10, even with LEO exemption from mag & holster location, and you're going to need 5-6 mags on your person.
  3. A badger something or other. Whatever met my $75-100 price point when I bought it 8 years ago... I'm sure you can cerakote the EGD grips, yes.
  4. I use the finest grit their instructions recommend. I actually baked at 250 for an hour then 200 for the rest of the night, because extra time in the oven doesn't hurt. H series.
  5. Thinking on it, I really should try again and see. With around 1,500 rounds through the gun who knows if anything might have been in need of some work, and has broken in somewhat. I just keep running the EGW spring because I know it works, I find the gun very shootable with it, and I haven't had time to test it in live fire outside of matches.
  6. You think I made it up? Busted. I'm actually running a Glock 19 with a prosthetic hammer glued to the back of the slide.
  7. Most applicators use an HVLP gun, too. I prefer an airbrush because I am not working in bulk on customer's ARs with lots of surface area... and I can lay it down as thick or thin as I want with a dual-action style airbrush.
  8. What kind of lunatic doesn't mask those areas off? Oh right. Someone more concerned with how many hours of labor they sink into the job than doing it immaculately. Maybe someone who doesn't shoot competitively wouldn't. But I damn sure do. This is my third competition-oriented gun that I've cerakoted. I spend about 60-90 minutes with an x-acto knife and the good blue masking tape on each one.
  9. If you thumb the hammer back, you'll greatly reduce how hard the gun is to rack. But the recoil spring is the biggest factor. Most of us run something between 8 and 10
  10. I'd encourage you to spend the money on a single piece sear too, if you're after a crisper break. Doesn't make sense to save $25-35 and leave a small spring between the two halves of the sear, if you're after a crisp trigger. I can tell you that polishing everything up inside really helps these guns. The trigger ends up as smooth as a 1911. A ball-bearing feeling no Glock will ever match.
  11. I've thought about getting certified as a cerakote applicator, but there's just not enough money in it for the amount of time it consumes. This took a total of about four hours total, stripping prepping masking and coating.
  12. Degrease like crazy. Mask. Sandblast to bare steel. Mix 18:1 with hardener. Apply with airbrush. Cure in the oven (200 degrees for 2 hours.)
  13. I'm not sure how to answer that. Assuming fixed variables of CCI and 650, my gun won't set them off more than 60% of the time in DA with a 14lb PD spring. With the firing pin block removed from the gun. And I know there are at least 5 or 6 other guys who are regulars on this forum, who've had to run an EGD M in order to shoot factory ammo with soviet bloc primers in it or CCIs.
  14. In this case I think our rule makes more sense than IPSC's. There's no reason I can think of to forbid someone from customizing their gun with a new color except for: 1. Adding grit or texture to a previously smooth surface, like the front of a slide without cocking serrations. But that would really be rather obvious. 2. Hiding reshaping or blending edges. I can certainly see someone undercutting a trigger guard or backstrap for a higher grip, or relieving/blending edges on their gun and hiding it under a coat of paint.
  15. Interesting. I think of the gun as being pretty simple. But we all have our own standards for projects like this.
  16. @NicoR Per the USPSA website, as long as you don't use a significantly grippier texture then it is allowed: 11) I see that USPSA has decided to allow me to refinish the frame of my gun. Can I paint it with “crinkle paint” or some other finish which provides some texture? ANSWER: NO. Frames and slides may be refinished for cosmetic purposes only, and the finish cannot result in a competitive advantage. Any finish which is deemed to provide a competitive advantage – for example, a roughened texture in an area where grip tape is not allowed – would make your gun a “new/unapproved model” which would not be legal for use in USPSA Production Division. 12) I want to hard-chrome my gun, but hard-chrome provides “non-cosmetic functions” (such as lubricity, rust prevention, etc). Is hard-chroming allowed? ANSWER: YES, as long as the new finish provides no competitive advantage (such as roughened texture where stippling or grip tape would not be allowed, per Appendix E4).
  17. Sneak peek. Went with a matte / textured finish (used a thicker mix of coating & hardener) and love the result. Crappy phone pic in fluorescent kitchen light. I'll take better shots of the finished gun.
  18. So you guys are gonna have to wait until tomorrow for "after" pics. (Not shown: my SSI Scales are black now.) Stripped bare and degreased: Masking: Sandblasted & hung: Airbrushed in 'stainless' cerakote: Spending four hours in the oven at 200 f:
  19. Oh you fixed the title. Now it actually makes sense. They both inch down to a glass smooth 5lb DA if you really really want to sit at the bench for a week fine-tuning things. So pick the one that fits your hand better, and run with that one.
  20. You'll eventually bend the Lee decapping pin when something finds its way into a case and blocks the flash hole. I ruined two at the worst possible time before finding the solution. Upgrade to the hardened pin and you'll never bend another one: they ALWAYS get pushed upward through the collet instead of bending. A quick reset with a 1/2" wrench and you're back in the game. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018V7L3C2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Os84ybV4FFNV9 I agree a Lee Sizing and Crimp die are the way to go. I'm a 9mm loader and find great success with them, while other dies are Dillon. The Lee size and crimp dies just produce much higher quality ammo, and cut my reject rate by 90% compared to Dillon's.
  21. The bolo disconnector doesn't crank the hammer back as far in DA, from what I've heard. Guns without one have longer SA triggers with pretravel, but hit harder.
  22. @SCTaylor does your gun have a bolo in it? Curious what, besides the wonderful variation from gun to gun, might be factored into so much difference in striking force. I recommended the EGD M spring because I know it'll make any gun eat CCIs. I'd rather set someone up with a reliable gun with an extra pound of pull than suggest a combination that could result in a frustrated owner of a non-functioning gun.
  23. It's simply a matter of whether or not that bullet profile plunks and spins in your particular barrel. Honestly only one way to find out.
  24. How's the quality and size of this bag? I tend to pack light for matches. 7 mags, 3 plastic 100 ammo cases, eye & ear pro, and a water bottle, a half dozen smaller items like an UpLULA etc etc ... overkill?
  25. Well, I already have a 5" bull barreled 22/45. I have a very good friend whose a skilled machinist and AR junkie. Perhaps I'll have him mill some weight off of my current upper. It won't be as good as an aluminum unit but would be a fun project. I may need to go research that now... suggestions? If he decides to really get into it, I'll consider changing guns. And upgrading Optics.
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