Tom E

The MIM trigger is just fine. The problem is the contour of the surface(s) not their size. Watch how the trigger interacts with the stop. The "lower" corner is what pulls the stop down out of the cylinder notch. The "upper" corner controls how the the trigger "pushes" the stop forward resetting the stop at the end of the trigger return. The sharp "corner" on the cylinder stop also needs a bit of attention. The contours are more important that a mirror smooth surface finish. The problem is it's easy to do a bit too much and have junk parts. The price of the learning process. You can get it so you can barely feel the reset when you're trying to.

Spray cans. Rollers suck, as does trying to get the paint off your hands after using the roller. There are other things I want to be doing instead of trying to get the paint off my hands between stages.

And this one has "the super-light Performance Center trigger". That alone should be worth a premium...

Sounds a bit obsessive-compulsive to me. Where I shoot controlling splatter/deflection is a bigger issue if I'm going to continue shooting steel there. If you're that worried about the shape of the target AS PRESENTED to the shooter you can recut the targets profiles...

Without a hand the cylinder won't rotate so you'll definitely not be damaging the cylinder stop or cylinder notches. Your trigger pull will also be very different with the cylinder not rotating... As to wadding up firing pin springs, while you have the C&S firing pin out throw it in the garbage and install a .495 S&W pin or an Apex Tactical pin.

Yes, highly toxic is actually correct. That "stuff" is lead acetate, and is one of the best ways to lead into your body. It absorbs thru your skin very easily so handle with care.

Just as a matter of managing deflection and splatter I'd sure think you want the plates facing (at 90 degrees to) the shooter.

I use Bowens WO rear with Toolguys' .100 wide FO fronts. Makes for a really nice sight picture.

Use the Bowen rear with one of Toolguys .100 wide fronts...

Only downside is that if you fire the grenade after emptying the cylinder you'll get bumped to open...

I use a piece of cleaning rod chucked in a variable speed drill motor and a .40 cal bore brush for 38/357 chambers or a .475/.480 cal bore brush for .45 chambers. Ed's Red or the solvent of your choice. The spinning brush works so much better than just pushing a brush thru... I leave the cylinder on the and just do the usual two fingers thru the window to hold and rotate the cylinder.

this looks like an interesting holster, considering ordering one for my 642. I am confused as to why you would add hammer shields for a shrouded hammer gun? To help protect the gun from sweat perhaps? Or do the hammer shields make reholstering easier? Eric They definitely make reholstering easier and they cover more of the guns frame helping make it more "invisible". The frame of my 342 is silver. They add no bulk.

I think it's just going to take some time to see how this shakes out. By that I mean if 6 major / 8 minor is going to improve participation. The "recogntion" thing does seem to be an issue with guys bailing because there might not be enough shooters to be "recognized" which then guarantees it's not going to be "recognized". Great catch 22.

Yes, we've moved from "Socratic Debate" to "mud wrestling with a pig".

You still don't get the point. THE TIME TO DEBATE THIS IS OVER. We're shooting 6 major, 8 minor. other suggestions, and I made some also like scoring 6 shot speedloader guns major at a 120 PF, got rejected. Is there something you expect continued whining to accomplish?

Deleted to be nicer...

Any more on this?

It's a DONE DEAL. We now have 8 shot minor. Quit whining and GET OVER IT.

Not even close... Never was like IDPA. I was shooting while the game transitioned. My first Open 45 would today be a legal Single Stack. The game has changed quite a bit with high capacity and comps and optics...

I got to play with this doing stages for an indoor range with very limited space. 11 rd neutral seemed to work well. Kinda screwed every body (except the real hi-capacity) pretty equally. This is a GAME. In that context I think all the classes should be limited to 8 rds. It was a better game before the first wide bodied 45s changed it.

If I had to do it again, I would go with the .200" tall sight... The .200 tall front is just right with a .160 rear, or in my case, the tallest Bowen Rough Country rear. 617s come with an odd set of sight heights .167 front, .126 rear (?) that don't give a very good sight picture. The shallow rear notch in particular sucks. The taller rear blades have a deeper notch and contribute (along with the narrower .100 wide front) to a much better sight picture.

Case neck tension is important. Some combinations of brands of brass and sizing dies won't get the case neck ID small enough. If your ID isn't small enough, no amount of crimp will make up for it.

What I suspected. I've had several of the "fish scale" type gauges. They found a new home in my garbage can to be replaced by a Lyman digital.

+1 on Warrens .100 wide x .200 tall FO front. It's perfect with a .160 rear.

Simply wondering what kind (brand/type) of trigger pull gauge you're using.