How often do you have to trim a .40 case?

[R1_Demon]

Hey all you fancy reloaders!

 

Since I'm just getting into reloading, I'm going over some of the stuff I have to get to finish off getting everything I might need.  For my first batch of cartridges, I actually purchased once fired mixed .40 brass that was already ready to go (cleaned, deprimed, all that jazz), however, in the future I'm hoping to get some either from ranges and, of course, reload my own from the stuff I shoot.

 

My question is, how often do you have to trim .40 brass?  How about chamfering it?  Reason I ask is I was coming down with a list of stuff I still need to look at getting and these things ended up on my list so far:

 

Chronograph

Data Link for Chronograph (if it doesn't have an app type connection already inside to connect to an iPhone/iPad)

Primer Flip Tray

Tumbler (Wet?  Dry?  Ultrasonic?)

Media for tumbler (Wet?  Dry?)

Brass dryer (if I go wet or ultrasonic)

Brass/Media separator (wet or dry)

Ammo Boxes (to store completed ammo)

Primer pocket cleaner

Case trimmer

Case deburring/chamfering tool

 

I think that was it.  Those aren't in any particular order of preference, but I am trying to put them in order, so that is why I'm trying to find out if I truly need a case trimmer right now for .40 cases.  Right now I'm only planning on reloading .40 S&W.  I may venture into other cartridges I shoot (9mm, .45ACP, .380ACP, 5.56mm, .308WIN, etc...), but for now, it is only .40 for USPSA.

 

I know I'm going to need the chrono because I'll have to test my loads to see if they make major PF or not.  So, that is kind of a given at this point, but I'm wondering how "necessary" the rest of it is right away to reload.

 

Thanks!

[Maximis228]

I have never trimmed a pistol case in my life.

[Albert]

I've also never trimmed .40s&w or any other pistol calibers I've reloaded. I've only trimmed rifle cases. My reloading was for IDPA initially then USPSA and 3 gun shooting matches.


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[armydad]

Like the others stated, no need to trim pistol brass. Rifle is another story and since you won't be reloading rifle for a while, I wouldn't buy anything for it now. As for your other questions, there are numerous links in this forum. You'll find numerous people that will answer yes to each of your questions. As you are just getting started, I recommend doing the minimum until you get the hang of it and figure out what your individual preferences are. I recommend beginning with dry tumbling with walnut and or corncob, with some Nufinish car wax. Some reloaders claim they don't even tumble their cases, but I think this is unnecessarily abusive to your press and dies. If you decide to go OCD on your case prep, you can always add a wet tumbler with SS media.

 

As for chrono, it depends on how much money you have/want to spend. I recommend the Pro Chrono with blue tooth adapter, so it talks to your smart phone. I love mine. It is a quality product and very reasonably priced.

 

Over the years, I've collected just about everything there is for reloading. Some things are unnecessary, but I dig them and have no regrets.

 

Best of luck!

[Argie]

Never

[Jakobi]

I've never trimmed pistol brass. No reason to.

[TDA]

5 hours ago, R1_Demon said:

YES    Chronograph

YES    Data Link for Chronograph (if it doesn't have an app type connection already inside to connect to an iPhone/iPad)

YES    Primer Flip Tray

DRY   Tumbler (Wet?  Dry?  Ultrasonic?)

YES   Media for tumbler (Wet?  Dry?)

NO     Brass dryer (if I go wet or ultrasonic)

YES   Brass/Media separator (wet or dry)

YES   Ammo Boxes (to store completed ammo)

NO     Primer pocket cleaner

NO     Case trimmer

NO     Case deburring/chamfering tool

Add a set of dial calipers and a powder scale.

[GrumpyOne]

Dry tumble with a corn cob / crushed walnut mix.

Use a 5 gallon bucket and colander for a separator.

Chrono of your choice.

Dillon primer flip tray.

[R1_Demon]

Maximus, Albert, Argie, Jakobi - thank you all for your input.  I really appreciate it.  

 

ArmyDad - Thank you for the information as well.   I wasn't really sure between wet and dry regarding the tumbler and have read on here people loving both of the ways, so it seemed to be a toss up.  Only thing I noticed is that a lot of people mentioned that the wet SS media seemed to clean the primer pockets better, but they did say that separating the SS media was a pain in the arse.  LOL  So, that is the only thing that still put me on the fence regarding a wet tumbler.

 

Also, as for the chrono - I did look at the Competition Electronics Pro with the Data Link and had that in mind.  But I have also seen the Caldwell Precision Chronograph Premium Kit as well.  Does basically the same thing, but it connects with a 15' audio cable.  Not really a big deal to me whether it is Bluetooth or hardwired for the most part.  So, I'm going back and forth between those two as well.

 

Grumpy - I also greatly appreciate your input.   I definitely have 5 gal buckets lying around here, so that is easy and I already have a plastic colander as well, so heck, I'm halfway there!  LOL  I think I found a Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ tumbler on Amazon for $30 with free Prime shipping.   So, I would just need to get the media to go with it.  I also found their wet tumbler on Amazon for like $127 and that comes with the SS media with it, so that is why I was considering the wet tumbler too.

[R1_Demon]

21 hours ago, TDA said:

On 5/8/2017 at 3:12 PM, R1_Demon said:

YES    Chronograph

YES    Data Link for Chronograph (if it doesn't have an app type connection already inside to connect to an iPhone/iPad)

YES    Primer Flip Tray

DRY   Tumbler (Wet?  Dry?  Ultrasonic?)

YES   Media for tumbler (Wet?  Dry?)

NO     Brass dryer (if I go wet or ultrasonic)

YES   Brass/Media separator (wet or dry)

YES   Ammo Boxes (to store completed ammo)

NO     Primer pocket cleaner

NO     Case trimmer

NO     Case deburring/chamfering tool

 

21 hours ago, TDA said:

Add a set of dial calipers and a powder scale.

 

TDA - Thank you for your thoughts on the list as well.  I did forget to mention that I do already have an electronic powder scale and caliper.  So, I'm good to go there.  I bought those when I purchased my press, plate and die set.  I also have a bullet puller (kinetic type) coming tomorrow too.  Just in case.  LOL 

[GrumpyOne]

if you want the primer pockets cleaned (waste of time really on pistol) you will have to add a step in your reloading process. With dry tumbling, you can load immediately after cleaning, wet you cannot. 

 

I ask this question alot...does shiny brass make you shoot any better? Spend less time loading,  more time shooting. 

[Steve RA]

Whatever makes you happy !!!

[armydad]

Another thing about wet tumbling, it's my experience the cases need lube for the press to run smoothly. Dry tumbling, especially with Nufinish, or the like, keeps the slick enough that lube is not necessary though many folks will tell you that lubing cases, regardless, makes the press easier/smoother to operate, and I agree. I

I agree with Grumpy that cleaning pistol primer pockets is a waste of time and offers no benefit other than satisfying one's OCD. And it requires 2 separate press cycles, decap, cleaning and then loading. I've done both and while I enjoy the hobby and haven't minded spending the time this way, I rarely do it any more.

As far as separating SS media, it's easy enough using a typical media separator. I have the Lyman but any of them with a top will work just as well. I have a large stainless steel sink on my garage so it's convenient for rinsing. Picked it up on the cheap, used, from a former produce guy.

And as for shiny, I still think corncob with Nufinish produces a nice shiny case. The secret is giving it enough time replacing or cleaning your media regularly. Thanks I'd start with dry and if you aren't satisfied, look into wet tumbling. My bet is you will stay with dry, vibratory cleaning.


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[R1_Demon]

16 hours ago, GrumpyOne said:

if you want the primer pockets cleaned (waste of time really on pistol) you will have to add a step in your reloading process. With dry tumbling, you can load immediately after cleaning, wet you cannot. 

 

I ask this question alot...does shiny brass make you shoot any better? Spend less time loading,  more time shooting. 

 

Of course it does!  Isn't that like when they put stickers on the rice burners and they say it adds 20 HP to their cars?   LOL!!!!  

 

I get your point and I agree.  For the most part, it goes into the firearm, gets dirty and comes out and onto the ground to get even dirtier again.  So, doesn't really matter if it is "shiny new".  Only advantage I can think of with it being "shiny new" is maybe seeing problems in the brass such as cracks or such.  That is the only thing I can think of that would be a possible advantage (at least for a new reloader that is learning what to look for).  But, otherwise, I agree, it really isn't a big deal.  As long as it is clean and won't affect my firearm, I don't really care if it is sparkling in the sun.  LOL!

 

Remember, I'm a TOTAL newbie at reloading.  (I haven't even pulled the reloader out of the box yet - I'm waiting for my new table to arrive today)  So, I'm trying to read everything I can on it (especially on this forum), so it is hard to process everything when you get a ton of info.  You read from a bunch of people that the primer pockets really should be clean or that it can cause issues with the primers not seating right (and you even can read that in reloading books/manuals), but then you get people that have been reloading a long time, such as yourself, that it really isn't as critical as people make it out to be.  So, it is difficult to try and discern what to go with.

 

I really don't want to spend money on stuff that I'll just use once in a blue moon or go, crap, I really never needed to buy that because I never use it.  Plus, I've been reading stuff now in this very part of the forum about people talking about some other push thru dies and all kinds of other stuff that is now freaking me out.  They are talking about Glock bulge (which I have never heard of and now I'm worried about) and such.  I thought I'd be able to buy my carbide Hornady die set for .40 and be good to go.  Now I'm worried that isn't going to cut it and now I need to buy special "one off" dies for special actions.  Sometimes that is the problem with too much info.  I'm not saying it is bad info, but the problem is it makes me "over think" stuff.

 

Sorry, I kind of went off on a tangent with some of this stuff, but I guess my point is, when you get all this info and neither of it is truly wrong, just different opinions, it is hard to figure out which way you want to go when you are new because you can see benefits in both ways.  

 

But I really appreciate it (truly) when people, such as yourself, take time out of their day to answer the dumb (well, probably dumb to you guys because you have been doing it so long) questions I have, so that I can try and get it right the first time or at least as close as I can to right the first time.  

[R1_Demon]

12 hours ago, armydad said:

Another thing about wet tumbling, it's my experience the cases need lube for the press to run smoothly. Dry tumbling, especially with Nufinish, or the like, keeps the slick enough that lube is not necessary though many folks will tell you that lubing cases, regardless, makes the press easier/smoother to operate, and I agree. I

I agree with Grumpy that cleaning pistol primer pockets is a waste of time and offers no benefit other than satisfying one's OCD. And it requires 2 separate press cycles, decap, cleaning and then loading. I've done both and while I enjoy the hobby and haven't minded spending the time this way, I rarely do it any more.

As far as separating SS media, it's easy enough using a typical media separator. I have the Lyman but any of them with a top will work just as well. I have a large stainless steel sink on my garage so it's convenient for rinsing. Picked it up on the cheap, used, from a former produce guy.

And as for shiny, I still think corncob with Nufinish produces a nice shiny case. The secret is giving it enough time replacing or cleaning your media regularly. Thanks I'd start with dry and if you aren't satisfied, look into wet tumbling. My bet is you will stay with dry, vibratory cleaning.


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ArmyDad - I have read that if you wet tumble, that it cleans them so much that you do need to lube the cases before going through the press.  I heard the fine "dust" from dry tumbling stays on the cases and that, in a sense, lubes the cases when you put them through the press, but it sounds like you prefer to still lube the cases.  I read that if you use the lube right, it actually goes a long way and it isn't that expensive really.  Some of the tricks I've read is putting a bunch of cases in a gallon Ziploc bag and spraying the lube inside and kneeding the cases and then letting them dry a bit afterwards and then heading to the press.  Seemed like a pretty easy way to do it to me.  How do you lube your cases?

 

I always wondered that about decapping first and then cleaning.  To me, that means you would end up running dirty brass through your resizing/decapping die and dirtying up your press.  Then cleaning the brass and then running them through the same die you just dirtied up (of course after cleaning the die).  Sounds like a pain in the arse.  LOL  So, I'm guessing that most times you guys just run the brass in the dry tumbler with the old primers still in, correct?

 

Is there really and big difference between corncob and walnut?  I've seen people mention both and I have even seen people mention a mix of the two.  Does it truly matter?  Will either work?  And I have also seen a lot of people mention NuFinish, so I figure that I would use that too.  How much do you put in there?  How often do you have to change the corncob/walnut mixture?  You don't have to change it with every set of brass you have to clean, do you?

[R1_Demon]

16 hours ago, Steve RA said:

Whatever makes you happy !!!

 

Good point...but sometimes happiness is doing the right thing the first time and not buying crap I don't need.  LOL!

 

[BombSquad]

I hate to be that guy, but there are so many threads on this forum that cover all the questions you are asking (nufinish, case lube, tumbling etc etc etc). Just start searching the forum, read the threads and decide what makes sense to you. Then start reloading a bunch of ammo and, like anything, examine your process and see where you can improve it. You're just not going to know the best process for YOU until you start cranking the handle.

[R1_Demon]

1 hour ago, BombSquad said:

I hate to be that guy, but there are so many threads on this forum that cover all the questions you are asking (nufinish, case lube, tumbling etc etc etc). Just start searching the forum, read the threads and decide what makes sense to you. Then start reloading a bunch of ammo and, like anything, examine your process and see where you can improve it. You're just not going to know the best process for YOU until you start cranking the handle.

 

Understood and good point.  Sorry to be posting already answered questions.   I'll give the forums a search and go from there.  

[GrumpyOne]

Older Glock chambers had a tendency to bulge the base of the brass near the head stamp, because the chamber was not fully supported. Generally, it wasn't a terrible problem unless you were firing the reloaded brass in a tight chamber, such as in custom limited gun.

 

I've loaded thousands upon thousands of rounds of 40S&W...all without the GRX die or any other push through die...all using standard Dillon carbide dies. 

 

As for lubing your brass, it is not necessary with carbide dies, but it does make reloading easier. With wet tumbled brass,  it gets so clean, the powder funnel actually has a tendency to stick whwn it expands the case. With a regular tumbler, the outside gets clean, the inside has a slight coating of soot, which acts as a lubricant to the powder funnel, which pretty much makes it not stick. There are several brands of case lube out there, but it's cheaper to make your own. Do a search on the forum for "Lanolin case lube"

[R1_Demon]

On 5/10/2017 at 3:19 PM, GrumpyOne said:

Older Glock chambers had a tendency to bulge the base of the brass near the head stamp, because the chamber was not fully supported. Generally, it wasn't a terrible problem unless you were firing the reloaded brass in a tight chamber, such as in custom limited gun.

 

I've loaded thousands upon thousands of rounds of 40S&W...all without the GRX die or any other push through die...all using standard Dillon carbide dies. 

 

As for lubing your brass, it is not necessary with carbide dies, but it does make reloading easier. With wet tumbled brass,  it gets so clean, the powder funnel actually has a tendency to stick whwn it expands the case. With a regular tumbler, the outside gets clean, the inside has a slight coating of soot, which acts as a lubricant to the powder funnel, which pretty much makes it not stick. There are several brands of case lube out there, but it's cheaper to make your own. Do a search on the forum for "Lanolin case lube"

 

Cool...thank you for the info.  You're my hero.   LOL  Seriously, thank you.  I appreciate the info.  I have heard about the "no lube necessary" for the carbide dies and my Hornady dies are the Custom Carbide ones, but then I have also heard that it definitely won't hurt to lube them anyway.  So, you know....

 

But I'll do a search on the Lanolin (hand soap?) case lube and check it out.  Thanks a bunch!  (thumbs up) 

[armydad]

Yes. Throw your fired casings in the tumbler and let it do its thing. Walnut cleans well, but corncob seems to do better at polishing if you want bright shiny brass. I'm not sure how many rounds you clean before replacing or cleaning your media. You'll notice that it will start taking longer and longer to get the previous results so you can base it on that. I bought my walnut from harbor freight and my corn cob from Zoro. I've yet to try it, but Jerry Miculek has a youtube video on how he cleans his brass and he mentions cleaning media. As for Nufinish, about 2 TBS - guessing, maybe less, for my large tumbler. Then I add a little here and there as I do more batches - it's mostly a SWAG for me. You should be able to do thousands of cases with one batch of media. I really haven't paid that close of attention to give you an accurate amount.

 

I bought my lanolin and 99% alcohol from Amazon. I use a 12:1 ration of alcohol to lanolin. Some folks uses 10:1. I've tried different methods to apply the lube and thus far, I think the zip lock bag trick works best: spray bag, add brass and shake. Let it dry and load it.

[GrumpyOne]

Yep, couple of sprays in the bag, add brass and shake.

[R1_Demon]

You guys are friggin awesome with the info!  I greatly appreciate it. All this gets written down in my reloading notebook for future reference. Thank you tons!

[tac_driver]

I noticed you are missing 1 important item 

from your list

a good set of calipers will come in handy

when setting your OAL (overall case length)

and when measuring your crimp (de-belling)

Edited May 13, 2017 by tac_driver

[Dirtchevy841]

Never. No need to trim pistol brass.