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R1_Demon

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Everything posted by R1_Demon

  1. Good info. I bought used .380 Auto brass from a reloading shop, but they are inside of a range. So, obviously they came from their range. I plan on going through each case (500) to verify they are, in fact, .380 Auto and no splits or weird case anomalies. But I appreciate the tip. I'll have to remember this while reloading when I finally start getting my own brass from shooting and accidentally picking up other's brass around me as well. I'm not going to trust someone else's sort, so I figured it's best for me to go back through them anyway. Do people just go to the range and ask them if they have any extra brass or ? How do people get their brass from the range itself? (not picking up their own, obviously) I've never thought to ask a range for their brass (mixed or whatever). I figured they probably used it and reloaded the brass themselves. Hmmm...
  2. Good to know. I'm keeping notes of all this for future purchases.
  3. Bob, I appreciate that. Yup, as Youngeyes mentioned, I'm only going to make a few and test them as soon as I can find a place to shoot here. Also, I thought they only use 9mm, .40S&W and .45ACP for most competition? I thought .380Auto is too "small"? Or is that what you mean? People used to use .380Auto and now they don't so the brass is just sitting there? LOL Sorry, been working too hard and my brain is mush today.
  4. Cool. Sounds like I got a decent choice from the ones offered here.
  5. I fully agree. Sorry, I know it sounded like I was going to set it up and then push out 1000 rounds. My apologies on that. I was only going to make like 10, then go chrono them to make sure the slide cycles properly on each firearm and no keyholing and such like that. I'm still trying to find out where to shoot here since I just moved to CO. I've requested to join a couple of clubs, but they said there is a 2 year waiting list. Sooooo...LOL
  6. Thank you very much. I'm glad to hear that the W-231 fills the cases decently that I should be able to tell. Even years ago I heard Titegroup can be touchy and you have to be careful with it. So, I figured I would avoid it for now. Also, even if one pound lasts me approximately 1500 rounds (depending on charge, as mentioned), that will work fine for me starting out. At max I was only planning on making 1000 rounds of 9mm and 500 rounds of .380 Auto, so that works out fine. The biggest holdup now is the primers.
  7. I appreciate the tip on the powder and cleaning. I have a rotary tumbler coming, so I was going to use that with the steel pin media. I’m hoping that will work fine.
  8. Thanks 12glocks. I’ll have to see if they have it locally or bite the bullet and order from Powder Valley. I know it varies by caliber, but does anyone know approximately how many rounds (say 9mm) one pound of powder will make?
  9. I’ll have to look into this. I don’t think I saw it locally but that’s a good price. Thank you!
  10. Thank you to everyone that has posted here to help me. I went to the reloading shop and they had Winchester 231 in stock (and HP-38, but no N320). So, at this point I have the following: 9mm * 1,000 pcs of new brass (Everglades) * 1,000 124g FMJ RN bullets (Everglades) .380 Auto * 500 pcs of once fired brass (locally purchased) * 500 pcs of 100g plated RN bullets (coming - Everglades) 1 pound of W231 (locally purchased) So, the only thing I have left to acquire to get started are the stupid small pistol primers that you can't find anywhere in stock. LOL! So, depending on how excited I am to start reloading, I'll either have to wait until they finally get some in stock somewhere or pay the 3x pricing off Gunbroker. The good thing is, with the empty brass casings, I should be able to setup the 750 press per the Dillon video on YouTube. I know they mention having brass in the dies when tightening them down to make them centered. Another question...if you have brand new brass, do you still run it through the resizing/decaping die in station #1? Or do you skip that step since it is new? Wait...disregard...I just thought of it...I have to prime the case, so it has to be run through station #1. Ok, forget I asked that. LOL!!! Now I have to look into equipment to clean the .380 Auto once-fired brass I just bought.
  11. Thank you all for the suggestions. I went down to the shop and they didn't have any N320, but they had W231 and HP-38. I grabbed a pound of W231 and figured that would work. I don't think they had Titegroup either. I know a lot of places are out of a lot of things. I got lucky and they had .380 Auto brass, so I grabbed 500 of those for later. No bullets though. So, I ordered those through Everglades Ammo since they had some plated bullets in stock. So, I have everything I need to load .380 Auto and 9mm, EXCEPT the stupid primers. LOL! But at least with the cases, I should be able to setup my new press according to the Dillon YouTube videos. Then I either wait for small pistol primers or I pay the 3x pricing off Gunbroker. We will see how bad I want to start reloading once things are setup. LOL
  12. Thanks Chris. Someone else also posted (on another thread) that N320 or W231 would work for all three calibers. So, that's what I'm going to shoot for getting. LOL If both are out, I'm screwed. LOL! I'll add HP38 to my list too, just in case. Again, the info is much appreciated.
  13. Youngeyes - Thanks for the suggestion as well. I'll look into N320 then. I thought they no longer made Winchester 231? Or was there an old version of it that they didn't make? I thought I read this like 3 years ago on here, but I might be wrong...I probably am. LOL Thanks for the suggestion. Gives me an option if the shop doesn't have N320. Again, thank you!
  14. Nice! Thanks! I’ll see if my local reloading shop has any.
  15. Hey all, I’m wondering what powder you would suggest to use for multiple calibers? I’m looking at starting to reload 9mm, .380ACP and .45ACP. Is there a preferred powder that would work well for all three of those rounds? If it is a powder that would fill up cases to avoid double charging, then all the better. I’m not looking at making competition rounds at this point. Just solid reloads for all three calibers. Thanks! Mat
  16. RGA - Thanks for the tip. I’ve heard N320 is pretty favorable for .40 for competition. That’s why I got it before. More expensive than most (about $35.00 USD per pound), but you can get it in some shops here. I think most use it for 9mm major too. But, since I just want something to make “regular” rounds, the N340 would probably work fine for my needs. I’m ultimately looking to reload 9mm, .380ACP and .45ACP, so if there is one powder I can use for all three, that would be awesome. Then I can try and buy an 8# jug and be good for a while. Thanks for the info!
  17. OGG. Oh believe me, I’ve called every LGS in a 100 mile radius. Every time I ask for small pistol primers, they literally laugh and tell me they have none and haven’t had any in a while now. But they do have powder for the most part so I’ll probably go get that. I have brass and bullets coming. Just can’t get the primers to start reloading. Again, unless I want to pay triple price for them in Gunbroker. (About $200+ plus shipping for 2000 primers was the avg) Good tip on the fluffy powder. Works for me. On the Dillon videos they used CFE Pistol and it looked to fill the case pretty well. That’s why I considered it. I don’t want to use Titegroup because I know it can be touchy within a few grains. I also don’t think N320 is very “fluffy” so that wouldn’t help either, but easier to manage and more forgiving than Titegroup from what I remember reading.
  18. Thank you and I will if I can ever find small pistol primers. There are none anywhere unless I want to pay triple price on Gunbroker for them. That and I’m trying to decide what powder to go with. I’m considering CFE Pistol for the 9mm and .380ACP. I just want a general good powder for my first loads since they won’t be for competition. Just to make sure the gun cycles and all is good. Originally I went with N320 when I was loading .40 S&W on my last press but I was making them for competition. That was the good powder 3-4 years ago for .40. I will have to look in the 9mm forum to see what the good powder is for 9mm. Might still be N320.
  19. Makes sense. I'm not in any rush to push out thousands or even hundreds of rounds in a few hours. When I start this, I'm going one piece of brass at a time through the entire cycle to ensure everything looks right and I'm doing things right. Maybe after a couple of hundred like that and I feel comfortable that everything is rolling like it should, will I then start to use the full progressive part by having a shell in every spot on the shell plate. Again, I'm in no rush and there is no need for me to make a mistake due to rushing for no reason.
  20. Ole Grey - That's what I'm planning on doing. I'm going to setup the press for 9mm instead of the .45ACP it is coming with. Good practice on setup. However, I have to get the supplies first and also get some fired brass to do the press setup.
  21. RGA - Here is what I ended up getting (it also helped after I viewed a few of the Dillon YouTube videos on the 750. Good stuff!) 9mm * Dillon 9mm caliber conversion kit * Lee Sizing/Decap die * Lee Powder thru Expanding die (found out I don't need this because it is already included in the Dillon caliber conversion kit) * Redding Competition Seating Die * Lee Taper Crimp Die I bought them all separately, no kit, because I wanted to use the suggested Redding Comp Seating die I had read about here. I'll probably return the Powder thru Expanding die since I now know I don't need it. .380ACP * Dillon .380ACP caliber conversion kit * Dillon extra toolhead * Redding 3 piece Premium Carbide die set (Sizing, expander and Premium seating die with micrometer) I have a feeling I won't need the Redding expander die for .380ACP since I bought the caliber conversion kit. I will just use Dillon's expander instead. I also ordered the Dillon wrench kit to mount on the machine, the Dillon primer flip tray and the Lyman 50th edition reloading manual. I also forgot to mention, that I did get the Dillon powder check unit when I bought my 750. I figured that would be the smart thing to do, even though it doesn't take the place of your eyes and brain to make sure you only do one charge per case. Oh and I also bought a Lyman case gauges for 9mm & .380ACP. The Hundo gauge seemed super expensive at $100 for the 100 round aluminum plate. Maybe if I end up doing a lot of reloading I will reconsider. But for now, I'll at least have some sort of gauge for the rounds. Also bought a KMS2 UFO reloading press light kit too. I had one on my Hornady LNL press and it was outstanding, so I bought it again for the Dillon 750. Only thing I need to get now are bullets, primers, cases and some powder to get things setup and running.
  22. For 9mm, I ended up getting Lee carbide dies. Was all I could find in stock. I also got a Redding comp bullet seater die. For .380ACP, I got a Redding die set. Again, all I could find. The press came with the .45ACP setup, but no dies for it, of course. I will look into those dies later. Again, no rush. Just have been doing a bunch of reading and video watching for now.
  23. I appreciate the info by everyone. I also appreciate the powder recommendation. Since I’m not reloading yet for competition, I agree that the suggested powders would be a good thing so I don’t double charge or could tell if I do. I’ll be reloading 9mm and .380 Auto/ACP at this time. I may end up reloading .45ACP later as well. But the main thing I want to do is setup and reload 9mm until I get comfortable with the process and all is going well. The. I will considering changing calibers. Anyone have a preferred reloading manual? Is one company better than any other or should I just pick any one as long as it is the current edition?
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