When is the EGW U Die needed?

[Pro2AInPA]

From what I understand from reading a whole bunch of threads, the U die does a great job of preventing setback in .40 S&W with jacketed bullets. However, I will be loading Precision (coated) and Bayou (coated) bullets, which are .001" larger than jacketed. Do I still need a U die?

I will be shooting these through a stock Glock barrel.

[Jman]

No. A good standard re-sizer (Lee, Dillon, RCBS or Hornady) will work nicely with .401 bullets. Saves the arm too.

That extra .001 in bullet width helps prevent set back issues after they are sized. A good way to confirm this is to load

a few dummies and measure OAL. Then, with your thumbs push the bullet tip into the edge of your bench VERY firmly.

Measure OAL again to confirm the length has not changed.

Jim

[twodownzero]

I have never found any reason for the U die. I understand the principle, but I have never seen the need. If it fits in a case gauge, it'll fit in your gun.

[CocoBolo]

You don't need it. If you got fat brass problems get a Redding Grx, it a cure the U die is a bandaide

I load precision moly and bayou bullets. What you need to watch is the belling, give it enough bell you don't cut the moly, watch for flakes on shell plate.

Do not use a Lee Factory Crimp die on these bullets use a taper crimp die and give them a good crimp, say -.002 and you will be good to go.

Make sure that your loading them the right length to fit your gun they are a little different profile than jacketed bullets.

Drop you jacketed bullet load -.4 gr as a start point then crono.

Edited January 7, 2010 by CocoBolo

[Pro2AInPA]

You don't need it. If you got fat brass problems get a Redding Grx, it a cure the U die is a bandaide

I load precision moly and bayou bullets. What you need to watch is the belling, give it enough bell you don't cut the moly, watch for flakes on shell plate.

Do not use a Lee Factory Crimp die on these bullets use a taper crimp die and give them a good crimp, say -.002 and you will be good to go.

Make sure that your loading them the right length to fit your gun they are a little different profile than jacketed bullets.

Drop you jacketed bullet load -.4 gr as a start point then crono.

Who's tamer crimp die do you recommend?

[Fireant]

You don't need it. If you got fat brass problems get a Redding Grx, it a cure the U die is a bandaide

Or you could send your 40 brass to Kenny at SSS to have them comercially roll sized for a penny a piece. I have retired my U die since he has offered this service.

[98sr20ve]

From what I understand from reading a whole bunch of threads, the U die does a great job of preventing setback in .40 S&W with jacketed bullets. However, I will be loading Precision (coated) and Bayou (coated) bullets, which are .001" larger than jacketed. Do I still need a U die?

I will be shooting these through a stock Glock barrel.

No you don't need the die. Get into the habit of check the effectiveness of your sizing die. Get a case gauge for your caliber and do drop checks of a sized case into that gauge. Then measure the O.D. of that case in several areas. It should be about .010" smaller then the SAMMI size listed in your load manual (9mm is tapered so it's different). Then measure the inside of the case at the mouth in several places. This measurement difference from your bullet size gives your your bullet tension. With these tools you can determine if your sizer is doing a good job and if you will have good bullet tension.

Edited January 7, 2010 by 98sr20ve

[Jman]

I use and recommend the Dillon taper crimp dies. You can remove the insert to clean

without messing around with your adjustment.

Hard to go wrong there.

Jim

[Singlestack]

The EGW U die does a good job of sizing all the way down. It is not a "bandaid". Glock .40 chambers are notorious for buldging brass and the EGW die does a good job of removing it.

My reject rate went from ~10-15 per 100 using a Dillon die to 0 using the EGW die. I would highly recomend using One Shot case lube if you decide to get the EGW die.

I've been loading .40 for 10 years and I would not consider loading without it.

Edited January 7, 2010 by Singlestack
added comment

[CocoBolo]

Who's tamer crimp die do you recommend?

I use Hornady dies. I've tried Lee and Dillon and the Hornady are just better. But in the crimp it doesn't make much difference.

The Lee FCD will undersize a lead or moly bullet as it is built to attempt to resize the case. Check the FAQ page on Precison bullets, they should know.

The answer to your next question is also there. How do I get this stuff out of my barrel. Chore boy, don't try to use chemicals it will eat your barrel.

If you bell and crimp properly and your barrel is fairly smooth you won't have an issues.

[Pro2AInPA]

The EGW U die does a good job of sizing all the way down. It is not a "bandaid". Glock .40 chambers are notorious for buldging brass and the EGW die does a good job of removing it.

My reject rate went from ~10-15 per 100 using a Dillon die to 0 using the EGW die. I would highly recomend using One Shot case lube if you decide to get the EGW die.

I've been loading .40 for 10 years and I would not consider loading without it.

I use Dillon spray lube on my .223 brass. What makes One Shot better?

[big_kahuna]

The EGW U die does a good job of sizing all the way down. It is not a "bandaid". Glock .40 chambers are notorious for buldging brass and the EGW die does a good job of removing it.

My reject rate went from ~10-15 per 100 using a Dillon die to 0 using the EGW die. I would highly recomend using One Shot case lube if you decide to get the EGW die.

I've been loading .40 for 10 years and I would not consider loading without it.

Gotta agree with Singlestack on this, especially when I scrounge range brass that has been shot in a loose glock chamber. Using my KKM barrel as a case gauge and the U-die to resize in station 1, the last run of 1000 that I did had 3 defects. Before I switched, the Dillon die would normally yield between 50-70 per thousand. Everyone will have a different opinion I suppose. I like the U-die and will continue using it.

I do not use one-shot anymore since I got a 223 case stuck and tore the rim off. One-shot may work great for pistol but it didn't work for my rifle cases worth a shuck. I now use LANOLIN for all my case lubing.

[Pro2AInPA]

From what I understand from reading a whole bunch of threads, the U die does a great job of preventing setback in .40 S&W with jacketed bullets. However, I will be loading Precision (coated) and Bayou (coated) bullets, which are .001" larger than jacketed. Do I still need a U die?

I will be shooting these through a stock Glock barrel.

No you don't need the die. Get into the habit of check the effectiveness of your sizing die. Get a case gauge for your caliber and do drop checks of a sized case into that gauge. Then measure the O.D. of that case in several areas. It should be about .010" smaller then the SAMMI size listed in your load manual (9mm is tapered so it's different). Then measure the inside of the case at the mouth in several places. This measurement difference from your bullet size gives your your bullet tension. With these tools you can determine if your sizer is doing a good job and if you will have good bullet tension.

I just went down to the bench and did some testing.

I took two pieces of once fired .40 S&W brass and ran them through my Lee resizing die (regular die, not U die)

Case 1:

Mouth diameter: .418"

Inside the mouth - .388", .387", .392", .396"

Web: .422"

Body: .420"

Case 2:

Mouth diameter: .418"

Inside mouth: .394", .389", .399", .391"

Web: .424"

Body - .419"

I then ran these cases through the flare/powder die and seated a 170gr Precision Bullets moly bullet in each. These bullets both measured .401" in diameter.

I then gave both dummy rounds an EXTREMELY light pass with the Lee FCD (just enough to remove the belling on the mouth)

I then pushed HARD on both rounds against my bench and there was absolutely zero bullet setback.

Judging from the results of this test, can I be assured that I'm good to go using the regular Lee resizing die with these bullets?

[boz1911]

I'm with SingleStack also. My case gauge rejects for 40 cal went to zip. I don't even check them anymore except for major matches. The U-die rules for 40. Lack of bullet setback is just a bonus.

[Pro2AInPA]

I'm with SingleStack also. My case gauge rejects for 40 cal went to zip. I don't even check them anymore except for major matches. The U-die rules for 40. Lack of bullet setback is just a bonus.

Are you using jacketed bullets? I'm using moly lead, which are .001" bigger. I've heard from more than one person on this forum that the U die plus lead bullets isn't a great idea?

[big_kahuna]

I'm with SingleStack also. My case gauge rejects for 40 cal went to zip. I don't even check them anymore except for major matches. The U-die rules for 40. Lack of bullet setback is just a bonus.

Are you using jacketed bullets? I'm using moly lead, which are .001" bigger. I've heard from more than one person on this forum that the U die plus lead bullets isn't a great idea?

I use the U-die for jacketed, moly-coated and plain lead bullets. I don't see why U-die+lead=problem?

[Pro2AInPA]

I'm with SingleStack also. My case gauge rejects for 40 cal went to zip. I don't even check them anymore except for major matches. The U-die rules for 40. Lack of bullet setback is just a bonus.

Are you using jacketed bullets? I'm using moly lead, which are .001" bigger. I've heard from more than one person on this forum that the U die plus lead bullets isn't a great idea?

I use the U-die for jacketed, moly-coated and plain lead bullets. I don't see why U-die+lead=problem?

Problem wasn't the right word. Not necessary due to the larger bullet diameter?

[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: The "U" die is not needed for 9mm(Dillon works fine) but you will need it for 40. There is a pistol out there that puts a bigger bulge in the brass than a Glock? Use the "U" die and don't look back. Thanks, Eric

[Pro2AInPA]

Well, the U die seems to be popular for .40!

Do you guys lube and run the cases through the U die in a separate step from the rest of the reloading process?

[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: It depends what kind of press you have? I just replace the resize die with the "U" die in stage 1. I used to run the 40 through a single stage press first when I had my SDB's. Thanks, Eric

[Pro2AInPA]

Hello: It depends what kind of press you have? I just replace the resize die with the "U" die in stage 1. I used to run the 40 through a single stage press first when I had my SDB's. Thanks, Eric

Lee classic turret for now. I was thinking about replacing the regular sizing die with the U die, but I'm worried about the case lube interfering with the powder charge in the next station?

[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: I don't lube pistol cases. I just use polish in the tumbler and make them nice and shinny Thanks, Eric

[big_kahuna]

Well, the U die seems to be popular for .40!

Do you guys lube and run the cases through the U die in a separate step from the rest of the reloading process?

Nope. U-die in station 1.

I was thinking about replacing the regular sizing die with the U die, but I'm worried about the case lube interfering with the powder charge in the next station?

I lube using lanolin cut with Isopropyl Alcohol (my homemade version of Dillon Case Lube) in a spray bottle and a pillowcase (an old one my wife approved for the purpose). Spray lube into empty pillowcase. Put clean brass into pillowcase and roll em around; lube will only get on exterior of cases leaving the innards uncontaminated. Dump lubed cases into big spaghetti strainer, then allow a few minutes (or hours) for the alcohol to evaporate leaving only the lanolin. Load and marvel at the minimal effort required to work the press handle.

Optional step: tumble assembled rounds in brass tumbler (or roll em around in a big bathtowel with a couple sprays of straight IPA) to remove lube residue.

Edited January 8, 2010 by big_kahuna

[Pro2AInPA]

Well, the U die seems to be popular for .40!

Do you guys lube and run the cases through the U die in a separate step from the rest of the reloading process?

Nope. U-die in station 1.

I was thinking about replacing the regular sizing die with the U die, but I'm worried about the case lube interfering with the powder charge in the next station?

I lube using lanolin cut with Isopropyl Alcohol (my homemade version of Dillon Case Lube) in a spray bottle and a pillowcase (an old one my wife approved for the purpose). Spray lube into empty pillowcase. Put clean brass into pillowcase and roll em around; lube will only get on exterior of cases leaving the innards uncontaminated. Dump lubed cases into big spaghetti strainer, then allow a few minutes (or hours) for the alcohol to evaporate leaving only the lanolin. Load and marvel at the minimal effort required to work the press handle.

Optional step: tumble assembled rounds in brass tumbler (or roll em around in a big bathtowel with a couple sprays of straight IPA) to remove lube residue.

Not to start the proverbial S-storm, but how long do you recommend tumbling loaded rounds? (The S-strom being that some people think this changes the powder's burn characteristics somehow)

[big_kahuna]

10 minutes seems to be enough. If you're worried about wearing the burn inhibitors off the surface of the powder kernels, try the bathtowel and alcohol method. A couple sprays on the towel seems to do the trick.