big_kahuna Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 OK, I guess I'll ice skate uphill while everyone heads the other way... This is weird posting right after JohnGaultsGun, since I know Gary and he is damn knowledgable about this stuff. Nevertheless here is a differing opinion. If it hasn't already been said by Flex or anyone else, pick one and practice. I bought both a G35 (for limited comp) and a G22 (for carry). A friend of mine wanted a G35 like mine so I sold it to him. Now I use the G22 for both comp (production currently) and carry. I shot the about the same with both. Yeah I know the longer sight radius of the G35 should make a big difference, but for me it didn't seem to. No idea why. Here are the mods I ended up with on both my G35 and G22 after trying pretty much everything available Grip tape Sevigny sights KKM Barrel (just to make me feel better about shooting lead bullets... it shoots the same as the stock bbl) Stock trigger components and springs, polished (yes I tried all kinds of trick trigger crap but stock is the most reliable IMO) Stock recoil spring on stock guiderod (yes I tried steel and tungsten guiderods with aftermarket springs... stock is the most reliable IMO) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revopop Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 I've also shot both. As mentioned in previous posts, the longer sight radius always better. You'll definitely see the benefit when you're taking head shoots or 8" plates at 25+ yards. The longer slide also gives you more weight to mitigate recoil. A trick that glock shooters in Limited and Limited 10 do is use an extended tungsten guide rod for even more weight below the bore axis. You can used the extended rod in a G22 frame because it's too short.If you do decide to shoot Lim/Lim10, .40 is the way to go. Major caliber is more forgiving with "sloppy" shooting than minor ;-) And when you decide to shoot Production, swap out the barrel for a 9mm, extractor(?), and ejector(?) if needed. When I converted by G35 to a G34, all I replaced was my barrel and extractor. 2 quick things--first, the longer slide has a lightening cut that makes the weight about the same as the shorter one. According to the Glock website, the total weight difference is about 1.5oz, which might as well be none. Second, conversion barrels are not legal for Production. It's technically considered a bull barrel because the outer diameter is greater than that of a stock 9mm barrel. It sucks, but that's the official stance of the NROI. It is however legal to load .40 minor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 Thanks, Bart! I knew that the regular Warrens were available so I figured it was only a matter of time before the W/S were, but I hadn't seen them anywhere. Do you know where to buy them? I'm pretty sure that as with all things M&P, Speed Shooters Specialties carries them. R, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MustangGreg66 Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 I've also shot both. As mentioned in previous posts, the longer sight radius always better. You'll definitely see the benefit when you're taking head shoots or 8" plates at 25+ yards. The longer slide also gives you more weight to mitigate recoil. A trick that glock shooters in Limited and Limited 10 do is use an extended tungsten guide rod for even more weight below the bore axis. You can used the extended rod in a G22 frame because it's too short.If you do decide to shoot Lim/Lim10, .40 is the way to go. Major caliber is more forgiving with "sloppy" shooting than minor ;-) And when you decide to shoot Production, swap out the barrel for a 9mm, extractor(?), and ejector(?) if needed. When I converted by G35 to a G34, all I replaced was my barrel and extractor. Yea, not legal in production unfortunitly. I wanted to go the same rout, even bought the conversion barrel only to find out it wasn't allowed. 2008 Rulebook D4-21 After-market slides and barrels – provided they are the same length, contour, and caliber as original factory standard. 2009 Production Rules Revisions: D4-21.4BARRELS: Current rules remain in effect - you may replace the barrel with an OEM or aftermarket barrel which is of the same length, contour and caliber as the original barrel for that model of gun. There might be something to the weight argument. The G22 and 35 have the same weight slide, but the 35 is longer and thus has some of the weight farther out. I like Barts comparison of a 22 and 35 to a commander and Gov length 1911... but I'm sure also that the gov slide is heavier than the commander... same principle though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnGaultsGun Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 I've also shot both. As mentioned in previous posts, the longer sight radius always better. You'll definitely see the benefit when you're taking head shoots or 8" plates at 25+ yards. The longer slide also gives you more weight to mitigate recoil. A trick that glock shooters in Limited and Limited 10 do is use an extended tungsten guide rod for even more weight below the bore axis. You can used the extended rod in a G22 frame because it's too short.If you do decide to shoot Lim/Lim10, .40 is the way to go. Major caliber is more forgiving with "sloppy" shooting than minor ;-) And when you decide to shoot Production, swap out the barrel for a 9mm, extractor(?), and ejector(?) if needed. When I converted by G35 to a G34, all I replaced was my barrel and extractor. 2 quick things--first, the longer slide has a lightening cut that makes the weight about the same as the shorter one. According to the Glock website, the total weight difference is about 1.5oz, which might as well be none. Second, conversion barrels are not legal for Production. It's technically considered a bull barrel because the outer diameter is greater than that of a stock 9mm barrel. It sucks, but that's the official stance of the NROI. It is however legal to load .40 minor. Right then. I stand corrected. I wasn't aware of the change. I do have to add (covering my butt ) that the above mentioned conversion happened way before the rule book change and before a string of good fortune at local GSSF matches that added some new Glock 34s to my collection. As far as the weight goes, it does add up. Since npolley was considering shooting limited, there are no weight restrictions. So add 1.5 oz for the slide, maybe another 2.0 oz for the extended tungsten guide rod, another 5.5 oz for a brass magwell, makes a huge difference in felt recoil. I've had to remove all that junk to shoot AM CIV in GSSF matches (major PF here) and WHAT A DIFF. And for Big_Kahuna, yeah, the G22 never did work for me in Limited hence my switch to the G35. There was too much effort spent in managing recoil and hitting steel. The longer frame felt more like an extension of my frame than the snubby G22. I definitely gained more points per match after the switch and haven't looked back since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryucasta Posted November 15, 2009 Share Posted November 15, 2009 Have you considered a G20 with a 40 S&W barrel for Limited? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lpspinner Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Ok... This still hasn't cleared up the air for me. I'm looking to buy a G22 or G35 through the GSSF program, cost is not as issue as they are only $80 difference between the two. I mostly shoot L10 with my 1911 and have occasionally practiced with my XD45 Tactical. I also have an XD40 Service model which I've used for informal steel shoots. Will I really notice any difference with shoot placement? Can I just get a G22 and later get a G35 topend for it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Hello: Buy the Glock 35 and don't look back. You can find police trade-ins if you want a Glock 22 later. You may want to look at the Glock 34 for Production as well. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 An excellent point. This is your chance to get a Glock 35 for cheap. If you want a Glock 22, you can get a police turn-in later for cheap. But you'll never find a Glock 35, used or not, that inexpensively - except, of course, you take the opportunity now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 An excellent point. This is your chance to get a Glock 35 for cheap. If you want a Glock 22, you can get a police turn-in later for cheap. But you'll never find a Glock 35, used or not, that inexpensively - except, of course, you take the opportunity now. And if you decide later on that you prefer the 22, then you should be able to sell the 35 for close to what you have in it; with the 22 that may be a little harder, because there are so many police turn-ins out there.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lpspinner Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 All good points. You've got me leaning onto the G35 side now. Thanks.... Just out of curiosity, is the G35 and G22 the same frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Yes. Actually the G17, 17L, 22, 24, 31, 34, 35 and 37 all use exactly the same frame. I mean they come of the same molds at the Glock factory and everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Yes. Actually the G17, 17L, 22, 24, 31, 34, 35 and 37 all use exactly the same frame. I mean they come of the same molds at the Glock factory and everything. True, but just in case he's thinking about it....that doesn't mean someone can legally swap around top ends and then use that gun in Production. Nobody would know, but it technically would be against the rules to put a G35 top end on a G22 frame or vice-versa. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lpspinner Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 That is true. I wasn't thinking about Production as I never shot it. I was thinking more along the lines of Limited or L10. It's nice to know that it is possible to take a G17 and turn it into a G22 for fun as I'm about to pick up a G17 dept turn-in for super cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Not quite that simple. The slide stop and ejector are different between the 9mms and .40s. True, you could switch those out, I'm just saying it's not just a simple "swap top ends back and forth" prospect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Hello: For $25 you can have a complete conversion setup of the trigger assembly,spring,connector and ejector. That is what I do for my Mech-Tech although that was just to get a heavier trigger for the Mech-Tech so that it goes bang everytime. I have a police trade Glock 17 that I've had for a while and it has been great. I also had some G22 trade-ins that had more holster wear than actual wear from firing. The barrels had no wear marks Get the G35 and shoot it------alot. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 That is true. I wasn't thinking about Production as I never shot it. I was thinking more along the lines of Limited or L10.It's nice to know that it is possible to take a G17 and turn it into a G22 for fun as I'm about to pick up a G17 dept turn-in for super cheap. Just be aware that you really want a three-pin G-17 if you're going to convert to a 22..... A two pin frame may wear out sooner/crack the slide sooner..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 I sighted in a 22 today and shot a few rounds out of a 35 as well. With the same load, the 22 was noticeably snappier. I'll have to shoot it in a match sometime, to see if my aversion for the G-17 translates to the 22.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnGaultsGun Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 All good points. You've got me leaning onto the G35 side now. Thanks....Just out of curiosity, is the G35 and G22 the same frame? Go G35! Duane makes some great points about cost and availability. Stick with the .40 for Lim/Lim10. If you can get the G35 at a good price, then do it. They go for at least $650 retail and that's only if you can find them around here in KALI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lpspinner Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 (edited) Ok... that's good to know about the 2 pin vs. the three pin. The main reason why for getting the G17 besides the low price is that the rangemaster at the department did an awesome trigger job to them. No NY2 trigger, but a buttery smooth trigger. My mind is made up... I'll go for the G35. Thanks! John, The store up North here has them in stock. The website price is much less then the 650 if you qualify to buy from them. The Glock LE program is a few dollars less then that. eta: this could all change as I'm in Reno this weekend, so if I don't blow my toy money. Edited November 21, 2009 by lpspinner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MustangGreg66 Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Excellent choice. Remember too that Lone Wolf and others sell conversion barrels. I'm able to swap the barrel in my G35 to a 40-9 conversion and shoot 9mm in my gun with no other changes other than the magazine. Might not want to shoot it that way in competition for reliability reasons (and not legal in production), but the barrel only cost my like $80 used and now I can shoot either caliber in my G35. When I bought mine new in the bay area gun show it cost me over $800 for the G35, so you're definitly going the right rout with the GSSF program. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lpspinner Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 Greg, That didn't even come across my mind. I also have a 40 to 9mm EFK Dragon barrel for my XD40 and I use 9mm mags and it works flawlessly so far. Well after spending the weekend in Reno, I can buy the G17 this week and the G35 will have to wait till next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 I shot the 22 in a seven stage match yesterday --- and to my surprise I didn't hate it. I think I'll play with it some more to see if I still notice a major difference between the 22 and the 35.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kp110477 Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 NEWBIE ALERT I realize this thread borders on archaic, However I was searching through the old threads (like I was asked to by the "FNG" threads) and was pleased to find this topic brought up already. I'm new to the sport, have shot a few local matches with my S&W Sigma 9mm (my carry gun) and am having a blast. I don't want to sink a ton of money into the sport just yet, nor can I afford to. I love the prospect of "tinkering" with a modular gun like the Glock and getting into mods for performance and "cool" looking add-ons. My thought process is this: buy a LE trade-in Gen 3 G22, and as I can afford it slowly make mods to the firearm. Such as sights, magwells, triggers, springs, grip etc. in hopes of creating a Limited gun. How would you prioritize these mods if you had to do only one at a time? Also, is it a necessity to reload/handload to achieve major PF with a .40 or can you buy off the shelf? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calmwater Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Do better sights first. 3.5 pound connector and a .25 cent (do it yourself polish) trigger job and you have the essentials. Factory 40 ammo makes major pretty easy, a lot of handloaders do it to make major by less to have easier shooting ammo and to save money/afford more ammo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now