sinnsyk Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Just got them in on Friday. These have a low profile, 0.060" height head with a Torx T10 instead of Allen. Stainless Steel in M3.5 which has been impossible to find anywhere with the right profile and right key. The factory grip screws gets chewed up after use so I designed my own and had them made. Super-nice, high quality and to the spec. I haven't had time to take and pics of them, leaving for Norway early in the morning. But they are available and I will ask Emma to take some pics of them to post. btw. the new hardened hammer pin and pin pin goes into production Monday so we will see them soon. The hardened sear pin is already available and it's an oversize 0.120" diameter pin in 416 stainless. The factory sear's, sear housings and the EGW sears ; between them all they can vary from 0.116" - 0.120". Since my pin is 0.120" a reamer may needed to be used to install. This means that the sear housing and the sear may need to be reamed to 0.120". When installed in this manner you get a perfect fit between the sear and searhousing. The sear pin will never wear out so it will stay in correct geometry unlike the factory sear pin which you can see loses material and ultimately turns into a sloppy sear movement. Slop = inconsistent and poor trigger pull. I will have both reamers and pins on shop soon. The sear pin is already available and I have reamers, just not up on shop yet. If you want, just ask for in comment box or email me. Reamers are $10. You can hand ream both the sear housing and the sear. It's easy to do, I've already done a hand full and they come out perfect. The hammer pin will be adressed in same manner. It is designed to fit into most frames, but reaming ay be necessary. This will only be for "Custom" frames which is the Limited, Gold Team/custom, Limited Pro, Hunter, Stock II models. The hammer pin hole has a different dimension on left and right side. The factory hammer pin has a lot of slop in it, causing the hammer to wobble in the frame. Well... wobble means less consistency and you cannot get the optimal trigger pull /weight until you've got the parts in the frame correctly. I used 6 different frames when measuring and designing these pins. These frames were of different dates, all back from '98 - '08. I found a 0.003" spread between the holes in these frames and I went with the tightest. What kind of finish the gun has will greatly determine the pin hole. So, after a gun has been re-finished, the holes may need to be reamed to fit my new pin. But this will guarantee a tight fit of the hammer in the frame = improved trigger. The "Match" and "Stock" frames cannot use this hammer pin because the hammer is held in by a roll pin. I've noticed on new Match pistols, often the factory trigger is better than the Limited. Not 100% sure, but I think it can be linked to the fact that the hammer is held in place properly in the Match because of a tight roll pin. The Limited hammer pin system causes wobble because of a loose hammer pin. So.. stay tuned.. you could greatly improve your factory or EGW trigger by replacing the sear and hammer pin. ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnsyk Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 Hey... sitting at the airport in New York waiting on my flight to Norway. Here's pictures of the new Torx Grip Screws: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIIID Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 I've tried out the sear pins they're great, I'll use them on all trigger jobs from now on. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoSteel Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 I've been looking for a screw that wouldn't corrode and the star pattern will look great with my grip work... I'll get an order in with a few other items I'll need.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 I've been looking for a screw that wouldn't corrode and the star pattern will look great with my grip work... I'll get an order in with a few other items I'll need.... I put some on today and they are a big improvement. Smaller diameter than the factory slot screw, but a must if runing aluminum panels. Another great product. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnsyk Posted August 20, 2009 Author Share Posted August 20, 2009 NoSteel That's a sick paint job on those grips. Love 'em. ;-) Henning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnsyk Posted August 20, 2009 Author Share Posted August 20, 2009 Stainless Hammer Pin and Pin Pin is in production this week. Should be ready very soon. I've improved the design on the pin pin by making a tiny "nipple" at the bottom. It's really difficult to get the pin out if it's sitting tight in the frame. By making a nipple shape at the bottom you can use a tiny screwdriver or a knife-edge to grab the pin and leverage it out of the frame. I went back and forth on the hammer pin dimensions until I settled on a tighter than factory pin. It'll keep the hammer rotating firmly in the frame. I also picked a dimension that allows for reasonably prices reamers that may or may not be necessary to fit pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoSteel Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 Thanks Henning. If you can't shoot, look good..!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff686 Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 (edited) I just got the grip screws! Awesome! Exactly what I wanted! They add the final touch of bling... Edited September 3, 2009 by Jeff686 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnsyk Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 It seems almost silly to put so much importance to a pair of screws, but they really make a difference. Thanks for posting Jeff. I put a lot of work and a good chunk of money into making those screws. Metric M3.5 is not something you can find easily and we tried. Nobody was making what we really wanted. These screws have a low profile semi-rounded head 0.060" with the Torx which doesn't give out like the factory slotted screws do. Screws are made in 303 stainless. Threads are also slightly larger than factory screws so they will sit better in the frame. I still recommend using loctite. ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 nice,...I can see I will need them with the new shirt for my next order! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmark308 Posted September 5, 2009 Share Posted September 5, 2009 btw. the new hardened hammer pin and pin pin goes into production Monday so we will see them soon. The hardened sear pin is already available and it's an oversize 0.120" diameter pin in 416 stainless. The factory sear's, sear housings and the EGW sears ; between them all they can vary from 0.116" - 0.120". Since my pin is 0.120" a reamer may needed to be used to install. This means that the sear housing and the sear may need to be reamed to 0.120". When installed in this manner you get a perfect fit between the sear and searhousing. The sear pin will never wear out so it will stay in correct geometry unlike the factory sear pin which you can see loses material and ultimately turns into a sloppy sear movement. Slop = inconsistent and poor trigger pull. I will have both reamers and pins on shop soon. The sear pin is already available and I have reamers, just not up on shop yet. If you want, just ask for in comment box or email me. Reamers are $10. You can hand ream both the sear housing and the sear. It's easy to do, I've already done a hand full and they come out perfect. The hammer pin will be adressed in same manner. It is designed to fit into most frames, but reaming ay be necessary. This will only be for "Custom" frames which is the Limited, Gold Team/custom, Limited Pro, Hunter, Stock II models. The hammer pin hole has a different dimension on left and right side. The factory hammer pin has a lot of slop in it, causing the hammer to wobble in the frame. Well... wobble means less consistency and you cannot get the optimal trigger pull /weight until you've got the parts in the frame correctly. I used 6 different frames when measuring and designing these pins. These frames were of different dates, all back from '98 - '08. I found a 0.003" spread between the holes in these frames and I went with the tightest. What kind of finish the gun has will greatly determine the pin hole. So, after a gun has been re-finished, the holes may need to be reamed to fit my new pin. But this will guarantee a tight fit of the hammer in the frame = improved trigger. The "Match" and "Stock" frames cannot use this hammer pin because the hammer is held in by a roll pin. I've noticed on new Match pistols, often the factory trigger is better than the Limited. Not 100% sure, but I think it can be linked to the fact that the hammer is held in place properly in the Match because of a tight roll pin. The Limited hammer pin system causes wobble because of a loose hammer pin. So.. stay tuned.. you could greatly improve your factory or EGW trigger by replacing the sear and hammer pin. ;-) How about a new entry in the Tech file on doing all this? Easy for you, difficult for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
askomiko Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 I just got one set of grip screws to replace my most worn ones. I'm loving em, gotta have more! In my opinion, everything but torx should be banned! As mentioned, it's almost silly to put so much importance to a pair of screws, but these Just Work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 got em',..nice touch to finish off the look of the gold grips I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnsyk Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 Thanks, it's nice to be able to drop factory parts we don't like in the garbage can... :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marky Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 got the Torx screw from Hennings and they were awesome will post some photos shortly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kylethunder380 Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 Yeah I got mine a while ago and all I will say is thank god for Henning! You can crank them down without fear of breaking them and mine have stayed put (without loctite) so far. With the factory screws you pretty much were forced to use loctite and you risk scratching up those pretty Henning grips when the screwdriver pops out of the slot... not to mention the profile digging into your hands. If you want to use Henning's grips, save yourself the trouble and pony up for the screws... They really are VERY high quality and a major improvement. He put a lot of time and money into getting these right for us Tanfo shooters. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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