S&w 625 Trigger Job

[riden]

I have a S&W 625 V-Comp Performance Center revolver that is going to require trigger work to lighten double-action pull for competition. What recommendations are suggested and who to perform the work?

After some light primer hits this weekend, another shooter suggested I micrometer my moon clips to ensure there are no variances on thickness. Has this been a problem for anyone?

Thanks in advance.

[Thomas Moore]

moon clips have not been a problem for me.

i have the jerry miculek spring kit in all of my s&w revolvers. it comes with easy instructions and produces a smooth 7lb double action trigger pull.

however once you install this trigger kit it is highly recommended using federal primers because they are the softest primers which allow for better ignition.

hope this helps.

[Bill Sahlberg]

The moon clips I have used in 25 years have never varied. The spring kit will help and if you have the newer style tranfer bar to an isolated firing pin type, you can get a longer firing pin (+.0015") from Brownell's. You will need snap caps to dry fire with this oversized pin but you can also tweek your strain screw and get a much lighter trigger pull. The Federal primers are not a suggestion but a MUST DO! Your best solution to your revolver with or without any gunsmithing is 1,000s of rounds of practice and pulling that trigger so it feels natural. My trigger pulls heavier than the #7 butit goes bang every single time. Lighter is not better when you make your gun into a smooth "klickenboomer". (click, click, boom, click, boom, click boom, boom, click boom, boom :-)

[Bruce]

I have had revolver work done by Benny Hill and Tom Kilhoffer. Both are great guys, excellent gunsmiths, and quick in the turn-around time. I think both are posters here, I know Benny is.

Good luck.

[HANDGUNNER]

We also do competition & carry trigger/action on s&w revolvers.

[Tom Mainus]

I would suggest Mark Hartshorne at Pinnacle-Guns to do the work. WWW.pinnacle-guns.com. He worked on my 625 V-comp and it turned out great. If your going to shoot revolver, you have to use Federal primers once you get the action job.

[AFDavis11]

If I add Jerry's spring kit to a new 625 and use Federal primers will I get reliable ignition by itself or do I need to add the extended firing pin? I would like to avoid that as I have no idea on how to install it.

[SmittyFL]

Get Jerry's video and spring kit. It is easy to follow and do yourself. I haven't measured my trigger but it is light, smooth, and always goes bang. I did a trigger job myself years ago and it was pretty good. But once I re-did it via Jerry's info it was even better.

Ditto on the Federal Primers also.

[phara]

If I add Jerry's spring kit to a new 625 and use Federal primers will I get reliable ignition by itself or do I need to add the extended firing pin?

I use the spring kit and Federal primers without the extened firing pin and have had no problems. Make sure you seat the primers a little below flush with the case. In other words, pay attention to seating the primers nice and deep, otherwise you will experience occasional misfires. Revolvers with the reduced power mainsprings are much more suseptible to misfires then semi-autos if the primers are not set deeply.

Good luck,

Paul

[Flexmoney]

riden,

If you do decide to get the Miculek kit & video, feel free to bring it to house. I'm sure we can figure it out between the two of us. (I likely would have the proper tools and stones already too.)

I don't think we can do much shaping on the "newer" style triggers that come in the S&W's...just some basic smoothing. I can't recall if you had a new or old style trigger though? (I believe the old style has a striker attrached to the face of the hammer?)

Kyle

[Rufus The Bum]

If I add Jerry's spring kit to a new 625 and use Federal primers will I get reliable ignition by itself or do I need to add the extended firing pin? I would like to avoid that as I have no idea on how to install it.

The most important thing I learned when using the Miculek Spring Kits is that 1. Primers have to be COMPLETELY seated. 2. The extended firing pin from C&S is a must and 3. DO NOT go below 7.5lbs on your double action pull. I set mine at 8lbs and have 100 percent ignition, anything less than that, you really need to send it to a gunsmith who knows what he's doing. As far as replacing the firing pin, once you take the side-plate off, there is a small pin that you can pull out using a set of needlenose pliers, simply pull it out and the firing pin will pop out.

[bountyhunter]

Maybe it's just me, but I was not thrilled with the two C+S extended firing pins I got for my guns. Neither fitted correctly and both needed some filing to get to fit. I am also not totally convinced they do a whole lot for increasing ignition force. I have them in both of my 66's, just not sure they are worth the money and fitting required.

[bountyhunter]

If I add Jerry's spring kit to a new 625 and use Federal primers will I get reliable ignition by itself or do I need to add the extended firing pin?  I would like to avoid that as I have no idea on how to install it.

The most important thing I learned when using the Miculek Spring Kits is that 1. Primers have to be COMPLETELY seated. 2. The extended firing pin from C&S is a must and 3. DO NOT go below 7.5lbs on your double action pull. I set mine at 8lbs and have 100 percent ignition, anything less than that, you really need to send it to a gunsmith who knows what he's doing. As far as replacing the firing pin, once you take the side-plate off, there is a small pin that you can pull out using a set of needlenose pliers, simply pull it out and the firing pin will pop out.

I think the Wolff ribbed mainspring (reduced power) gives a little lighter pull for the same "strike force" because the way the spring works. I have gotten pulls down to 6.5# very reliably on mine as long as the soft primers were used.