MAN - GA Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Has anyone come across hard to remove locking block pins (smaller pin). I have several Glocks and never had any of the pins be extremely difficult to remove. I know sometimes the trigger pin is tricky trying to get the slide stop out of the groove on the trigger pin, but the reason I ask is my G24 is really hard to remove and reinsert - the pin channel across the gun appears to be straight and the pin rolls straight and flat across a glass table so I don't think it is bent. The G24 is only 6mn old and has about 1500rnds through it and the pin doesn't seem to get be getting any looser. I am curious if others are seeing this in recently manufactured guns and wonder if it is a manufacturing issue? an engineering upgrade by Glock? or just my particular gun being real tight? Comments appreciated... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotm4 Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 If you're using the genuine Glock tool you should be able to press it out with hand pressure. The Glock tool has a wider handle than a punch so it doesn't hurt your hand as much as a punch does. You can give this pin a light tap with a hammer to start it without damaging it. Don't tap on the trigger pin as you can shear off some of the slide stop lever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Smith Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Get a roll of masking tape and set the gun on that, right side down. You should be able to push the pin out fairly easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAN - GA Posted June 22, 2009 Author Share Posted June 22, 2009 It comes out - it is just considerably harder than other Glock pistols I have. I know all the tricks to get the pins out and am using the armorers tool - I was just curious if Others are encountering the same thing or if it is just my particular pistol Everything functions just fine and there is not any excessive peening on the bottom of slide - just a slight finish wear in the black finish and it is equal on both sides. THANKS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 i've never seen that before. In my experience the slide stop pin on any new Glock is going to be total bitch kitty to get out until you've (1) done it several times and (2) put enough rounds through the gun that it's loosened up a bit. But I've never seen a Glock on which the little locking block pin was particularly hard to get out, even on a new gun. Weird. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BayouSlide Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 (edited) Are you always removing the locking block pin first of the three pins, and replacing it first on reassembly. If not, that could be part of the problem. My Glocks are well used, but I took apart a couple of new ones recently to help some friends out, and even in the proper sequence, the locking block pin in a new Glock can be surprisingly tight...I'd forgotten that, apparently. Curtis Edited to clarify: thanks Graham! Edited June 22, 2009 by BayouSlide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Smith Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Are you always removing the locking block pin first of the three pins, and replacing it first on reassembly? That could be part of the problem. I was told that was the correct sequence. Are you saying it is not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Hefta Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 My locking block pin was bent on my G34 and I had to replace it recently. I don't know what could have caused this to happen? Removal has never been an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BayouSlide Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Are you always removing the locking block pin first of the three pins, and replacing it first on reassembly? That could be part of the problem. I was told that was the correct sequence. Are you saying it is not? That is the correct sequence...on re-reading my post, I see how it might have seemed I was implying differently. Sorry if I was unclear. Curtis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BayouSlide Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 My locking block pin was bent on my G34 and I had to replace it recently. I don't know what could have caused this to happen? Removal has never been an issue. I had one bend on a G20 (10mm) once. FWIW, I had a Glock Armorer at a GSSF explain that occasionally they will run into a batch of pins that aren't up to snuff. I just check my pins and replace them all every 25K rounds or so, just like any other wear part. Curtis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohboy Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 When my G34 was new the locking block pin was harder to remove / insert, but over time it has gotten easier to remove / insert back into the gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAN - GA Posted June 22, 2009 Author Share Posted June 22, 2009 Thanks to all for the comments/suggetsions I guess it is just a fluke thing and maybe the locking block pin holes are off more than the naked eye can detect or the pin is overly large in diameter. BayouSlide I am removing in proper sequence already thought this through a couple times and re-read the armorer's manual to make sure I hadn't slipped something up Thanks Again to all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Anderson Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 You've probalby got a gun made on a new mold. Some of the newer RTF also have LBP's that are a pain to insert. If you really have a problem with this Glock makes a slightly undersized LBP you can switch out to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 I understand why you want to remove the locking block pin before the slide stop pin. But what possible difference could it make if you remove the trigger module pin first or last, i.e. why would it need to be last? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPatterson Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Late to the party, yes the locking block pin on my 24C was a bitch to get out, first, second, third and only times. Guns got maybe 150 rounds through it waiting for bullets that just came from Montana Gold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 I understand why you want to remove the locking block pin before the slide stop pin. But what possible difference could it make if you remove the trigger module pin first or last, i.e. why would it need to be last? Possibly to release some of the slide stop springs tension? As you probably know, the slide stop spring rests against the locking block pin and if you remove the block pin, the spring's tension is eased...might not be mandatory but could make disassembly easier? One of my Glocks trigger pin is a real bear to remove. I found that wiggling the trigger bar forward and backwards while applying light pressure to the pin will usually do the trick. Apply light pressure as in just enough to push out the pin if it were loose. Too much pressure seems to make it lockup and not want to come out... I wiggle the trigger bar while applying pressure and when it all lines up, the pin slides out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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