Glocked Brass question

[The_Vigilante]

My experience with the FCD mirrors FLL1911. I use the standard Lee .40 Resizing die and the Lee FCD. If the case won't fit my case gauge after going thru the resizing die it also won't fit the case gauge after going thru the FCD.

I do my 40 cal reloading with 100% Glocked cases that come straight from a local police range, and I never had to consider any additional step in the process other than using the Lee dies set with the Lee Factory Crimp die at the end of the reloading (Dillon 650). I am using these cases for about 2 years now and I never had a single hiccup with my STI Limited or CZ TS.

If you want DIY solution, check this out:

Here is the way I see it.

1) A std resizing die sometimes will not resize the case properly as the "buldge" may be low on the case.

2) The U-Die does a better job and makes the brass tighter except at the bottom of the case.

3) Factory crimp die does size all the way down either

This die sizes the entire case!!

In my experience (which does not cover everything about Glocked cases), the Lee standard resizing is enough.

I do not use the U-die, and I do have restrictions in doing so. In my opinion the U-size (40 cal) is more a solution for a tight chamber than for Glocked cases, and the samples I have seem constricted the case too much, then it is stretched by the bullet diameter creating almost a step near the case base. With continuous reloading with the same case there is a possibility of metal failure at this point (case separation). My gun has a KKM barrel, and it does not need U-resizing die - your mileage my vary.

I use the Lee FCD more to resize the top of the case, and give a gentle crimp. It does not seem to resize the base of the case any further.

I have read reports that Glock, without much advertisement, has been, or had changed the amount of the unsupported barrel in all model, which would contributed to current Glocked cases not having a huge bulge like some years ago. Can someone confirm this?

[lugnut]

I have read reports that Glock, without much advertisement, has been, or had changed the amount of the unsupported barrel in all model, which would contributed to current Glocked cases not having a huge bulge like some years ago. Can someone confirm this?

I have observed this as well. No facts- just observations. That being said- I chamber check all my .40 brass since I'm not always sure where it came from.

In my experience- .40 brass is by far the most finicky when chamber checking the cases... even if they aren't Glock'd brass. I have more .40 brass that doesn't chamber check with regular dies. I usually use the U die now.. but may use a regular Hornady die and use the G-Rx as back up.

Edited May 5, 2009 by lugnut

[Ray_Z]

Ray,

I purchased a Redding press and GR-X die mentioned above for eliminating the "Glock Bulge" and it works just as you described by pushing the bulge out as the brass goes all the way through the sizing die.

Strongly recommend the GR-X! Now if I can just find a die that I can fit into to remove my bulge.

Does the redding die have a carbide insert? Or do you have to use lube?

Another thing that I am worrying about is closing up the extractor groove at the base of the case with the pressure that will be needed to push the base of the case back where it belongs. Do you think that is a problem? Would it be better to put the cast through the die base first? By putting the case through base first don't you think that there would be less chance of thinning out the case wall at the top of the base?

BTW, when people loose weight, I'd like to know where it goes. I'd like to make a deposit myself.

[lugnut]

The directions say to use case lube- I don't believe it's carbide. I don't think it will close the groove- it certainly doesn't even do anything close to that on the cases I tried. I don't think you can put it thru base first.

I guess I'm not sure what it will do the strength of the wall near the base. Good question. I'm not worried.

[Dan Sierpina]

The GR-X does have a carbide insert. Redding includes some Imperial Sizing Die Wax for lube, it only takes a bit. I ran loaded ammo through the die, no lube, no problems. The insert is large enough that it doesn't contact the top of the case, the bullet area of the case makes no contact. As I said previously, I only ran the failed ammo through the die, all the ammo then dropped right into my gage.

Another thing, I've found the finish on Redding carbide much better than Lee, you do get what you pay for.

[FLL1911]

...

In my experience- .40 brass is by far the most finicky when chamber checking the cases... even if they aren't Glock'd brass. I have more .40 brass that doesn't chamber check with regular dies. I usually use the U die now.. but may use a regular Hornady die and use the G-Rx as back up.

I do not chamber check my reloads, ever (I am so lazy - I only check for high primers). As mentioned before, it always come right when using Lee dies. I do not have experience with other dies manufacturers, but I have seen fat cases from different fellow shooters using Dillon resizer dies.

Before buying additional equipment have you considered trying the Lee resizer and the Lee FCD? Probable it will be less expensive, but more important (for me), it will save me time by eliminating an additional reloading step preparing the cases.

My 2 cents.

[Guy Neill]

When I specifically asked Redding if the G-Rx was carbide or steel, they said it was steel.

Guy

[lugnut]

I don't want to diverge on this thread but I wanted to give some reason why sizing correctly and gauging every round can be important. If you shoot competitively and happen to spend a fair amount of money on matches and/or travel... you want to eliminate ALL posible causes of potential gun/ammo problems. I think this die is the best I've seen for making the brass right.... I really do. Other dies might work- I've used the Lee dies and in the past just marked bad brass when it didn't gauge right. However with the costs of brass, I can't afford to buy new brass for matches... and when I save my brass it inevitably gets mixed with other brass that I have no idea how old it is so I look at this as the best insurance I can find. And the die is cheap and easy to set up on my hardly used Rock Chucker press.

Dan- are you sure it's carbide?

[Dan Sierpina]

When I specifically asked Redding if the G-Rx was carbide or steel, they said it was steel.

Guy

My mistake then. I can see no reason not to make it carbide though. For the cost, I just figured it would have a carbide insert.

[Black Gun]

When I specifically asked Redding if the G-Rx was carbide or steel, they said it was steel.

Guy

My mistake then. I can see no reason not to make it carbide though. For the cost, I just figured it would have a carbide insert.

It definitely has an insert and I can't see why they would put a steel insert in a steel die?

Oh well it does work great!

[CocoBolo]

I sold my U Die, the G-Rx has cured the problem. I started with a 2lb Coffee can of Brass that the U-Die would not size, aka fat boys. I ran all of them thru the G-Rx and then loaded them up to major power factor and shot them in Local matches. This was just over 1000 rounds. No jams no heads blown off brass just sweet shooting fun.

For lubricant, I put the brass in a plastic bag spray some one shot in there shake it up a bit and run them thru the G-Rx. Once that is done I put them back in the tumbler to get the One Shot off of them else they get funky in the case feeder. I like the clean and shiney.

I still drop check every round, since I load very long they go in backwards and forward to make sure that they are crimped and that the are not bulged. I'm thinking about getting rid of the reject bucket but you still have a missed primer here and there so I will just have to keep it.

[RePete]

Roll size it!!!! its the best... will save you money down the road.

CT

I tried the Lee U-Die but on the 1050 I had problems so I invested in a CasePro100. Problem solved. I have die plates for 9mm, 40 cal and 45ACP.

I don't chamber check anymore.