G-ManBart Posted December 23, 2009 Author Share Posted December 23, 2009 They sure have. The center holes on the left and right sides are completely plugged. The holes on both ends on the left and right, are about half plugged and all three of the holes in the center of the comp are about 75% blocked. The deposits are pretty hard and don't yield to a plastic "digging tool" at all so I don't think it's powder residue. I've also tried with a steel dental pick but it ain't moving. I've seen the recommendations to use a Dremel with a round ball but hesitate on that because I don't want to deform the holes in the comp, especially now that I know that the comp is aluminum. Mostly I've fired the recommended CCI Mini mags. I've shot about 2,000 – 3,000 rounds. Since it's easy to take the comp off, I'm thinking heat might be the easiest way to get it out. I think you could heat it up enough to make the lead soft and not hurt the comp. Send Ray at Bully a note and see what he thinks. R, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigger hammer Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 Thanks, I'll get in touch with Ray. I'll report back when I hear. Lou Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigger hammer Posted December 25, 2009 Share Posted December 25, 2009 Here's the reply I got from Ray. The comp is anodized aluminum and won't melt til about 1350F. I have had good success soaking the comp in Hoppes9 overnight and then using a .22 bronze brush in an electric drill for the small holes. #9 should soften and loosen the lead. I had no experience with comps and I don't shoot mine much, but Billy Abbate came to me with the problem you have and it seems a Hoppes9 soak and brushing every 200 or so rounds would be advisable. I would only try heat as a last resort. A propane torch should melt the lead around 700F. Better would be to put the comp in a lead pot (do you cast bullets?). Take the set screw out first. I am not sure how any of this would work so be careful. I don't have any Hoppe's around (used to like the smell but now it makes me ill). I'll get some next week and give the overnight soaking method a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TG Reaper Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Bigger Hammer: Drop Ray an e-mail and ask him which drill bit size he bores the comps with, and which tapered reamer he uses for the comp holes. I would tell you, but my gear is in a different location than my computer tonight. I purchased one of these drills and tapered reamers and use them to clean my comps after every 500 rounds. I tried the solvent and bore brush routine, but it requires far more time and patience than I possess! I chuck the drill in a vice and gently slide the comp over it, carefully turning by hand, to clean out the majority of the lead residue. Using a tap handle, I VERY CAREFULLY clean out the tapered comp ports. I wasn't so careful with a couple of my comps and they had to be cleaned up in a mill after I buggered up the exit holes. This process takes 5 minutes max, and makes the comp look brand new. If you go longer than 500 rounds, the buildup will be substantial and will impair the efficiency of the comp. Hope this helps! Good Shootin', TGR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireant Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 I'm glad I read this thread. I have put 2K through mine and never thought to check the comp for leading. Those holes are plugged tight. I guess I'll be soaking it tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted December 27, 2009 Author Share Posted December 27, 2009 I'm glad I read this thread. I have put 2K through mine and never thought to check the comp for leading. Those holes are plugged tight. I guess I'll be soaking it tonight. Hmmmm....guess I need to take a look at mine now. R, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigger hammer Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Drop Ray an e-mail and ask him which drill bit size he bores the comps with, and which tapered reamer he uses for the comp holes... Thanks TGR. I think I'm too ham fisted for this. I'll try the soaking and bore brush–in–a–drill route first. If it doesn't work, we'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 This is probably a more general question for the S&W model 41, but it might fit here... With the optics/sights attached the barrels, how well do they hold zero if the barrel is removed and replaced? What I am wondering is, how well they would work as a switch top? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 (edited) Try soaking it in Kroil for a day or two, then the plastic pick should work. Once it's clean, spray the inside with Dillon case lube every couple hundred rounds. Edited April 15, 2010 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted April 15, 2010 Author Share Posted April 15, 2010 This is probably a more general question for the S&W model 41, but it might fit here... With the optics/sights attached the barrels, how well do they hold zero if the barrel is removed and replaced? What I am wondering is, how well they would work as a switch top? I haven't seen any change with mine at all. Next time I shoot groups with it I'll shoot a couple then remove/replace and see if it shifts. I can't imagine why it would though. R, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cautery Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 I can't speak to the "Steel Challenge" barrel, but between Renee and I, we have at least 5 barrels ranging from a factory steel sights, factory with an Aimpoint Comp, older Clark Custom w/ weaver cuts and C-more, and a couple of new Clark Custom with picatinny cuts and C-mores (1 plastic and 1 aluminum)... She switches barrels at STC Nationals between Combo and the Pistol event right on the line... The barrel change itself makes NO difference whatsoever... I've taken mine off and on tens of times to clean et al... and I've never had to re-zero. The design of the Model 41 specifically lends itself to switching barrels and barrel/optic combos. This is probably a more general question for the S&W model 41, but it might fit here... With the optics/sights attached the barrels, how well do they hold zero if the barrel is removed and replaced? What I am wondering is, how well they would work as a switch top? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigger hammer Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 Try soaking it in Kroil for a day or two, then the plastic pick should work. Once it's clean, spray the inside with Dillon case lube every couple hundred rounds. Kroil had absolutely no effect on the fouling. BH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TG Reaper Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 This is probably a more general question for the S&W model 41, but it might fit here... With the optics/sights attached the barrels, how well do they hold zero if the barrel is removed and replaced? What I am wondering is, how well they would work as a switch top? Hi Flex: Absolutely no change in zero whatsoever. You can take the barrel off and on 100 times and go shoot a bullseye match with it. Additionally, I have switched almost entirely to aluminum C-Mores, even on the .22's, and have no wandering zero issues. It only took us 20 years to figure out that the perfect .22 racegun already existed. The M41 with a Bully Steel Challenge barrel is probably the most entertaining "race" gun I've ever owned...and that's saying alot! Good Shootin', TGR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted April 19, 2010 Author Share Posted April 19, 2010 This is probably a more general question for the S&W model 41, but it might fit here... With the optics/sights attached the barrels, how well do they hold zero if the barrel is removed and replaced? What I am wondering is, how well they would work as a switch top? Hi Flex: Absolutely no change in zero whatsoever. You can take the barrel off and on 100 times and go shoot a bullseye match with it. Additionally, I have switched almost entirely to aluminum C-Mores, even on the .22's, and have no wandering zero issues. It only took us 20 years to figure out that the perfect .22 racegun already existed. The M41 with a Bully Steel Challenge barrel is probably the most entertaining "race" gun I've ever owned...and that's saying alot! Good Shootin', TGR Yeah, but where do I get one of those cool magwells man!!! Inquiring minds want to know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cylindrically challenged Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 I like using my 10 shot S&W 617 revo for rimfire in Steel Challenge. Feed reliability is excellent! It's really challenging and a ton of fun trying to work a revo as fast as a .22 auto. (I have won a few club matches against the autos) And it's a great cross trainer for my 8 shot 627s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted May 19, 2010 Author Share Posted May 19, 2010 (edited) I like using my 10 shot S&W 617 revo for rimfire in Steel Challenge. Feed reliability is excellent! It's really challenging and a ton of fun trying to work a revo as fast as a .22 auto. (I have won a few club matches against the autos) And it's a great cross trainer for my 8 shot 627s. Does this have something to do with SC barrels for a M41? Edited May 19, 2010 by G-ManBart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill H Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 Just got word that there will be no more of these barrels made. Treasure the ones you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speculatorking Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 What..Really...Why?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandro Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 There is a new barrel "possibly" coming to market from another source. I was told how it would be machined and I am looking foward to get a demo. I will post an update when I get it... DVC, Sandro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted May 22, 2010 Author Share Posted May 22, 2010 Rats....Ray's site no longer has links to the barrel section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlowingDonut Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 Rats....Ray's site no longer has links to the barrel section. I just emailed Ray. He replied he's retiring (why the old ray-vin page is down), but he's turned the bully barrel design & production over to another party. He said to watch the forums (he didn't mention any by name) for when they'll become available and how much they will cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gng4life Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 Man, I'm glad I got one of his last barrels! Are there any other mods that should be done to the M41 besides this barrel? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted May 27, 2010 Author Share Posted May 27, 2010 Rats....Ray's site no longer has links to the barrel section. I just emailed Ray. He replied he's retiring (why the old ray-vin page is down), but he's turned the bully barrel design & production over to another party. He said to watch the forums (he didn't mention any by name) for when they'll become available and how much they will cost. That's good news. I can't imagine I'll wear mine out too quickly, but I know lots of other folks would like one, and if I get more serious about SC I'll have to build a backup gun. R, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted May 27, 2010 Author Share Posted May 27, 2010 Man, I'm glad I got one of his last barrels! Are there any other mods that should be done to the M41 besides this barrel? Thanks Not much...lots of folks put the Herret grips on them, maybe a lighter recoil spring and maybe a little bit of trigger work (doesn't need much). That's about it really. R, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gng4life Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 Man, I'm glad I got one of his last barrels! Are there any other mods that should be done to the M41 besides this barrel? Thanks Not much...lots of folks put the Herret grips on them, maybe a lighter recoil spring and maybe a little bit of trigger work (doesn't need much). That's about it really. R, Thanks G-Man. I'll look for the trigger job to be done soon but other than that, I'm going to enjoy shooting that baby. The barrel is even better than the pictures of it - Ray does some great work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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