GlowingDonut

I ordered a Nordic clamp for 12 gauge shotguns from Cactus Tactical, since Midway was sold out a few weeks back. Here's the part # I received, and it works great on the 24" turkey barrel. (part #NC-BCL-XX-12-00)

This. It won't cycle properly without one of the two extended caps. Either will work. I may end up picking up the extended cap to make loading a little easier. I did cut my original untrimmed spring per the advice I got above, and now it loads 9 fine. Thanks for all the help folks!

Steve, I ordered my 24" non-ported turkey barrel from Mossberg directly. I emailed Joe Zakher (jzakher@maverickarms.com), using his contact info from the other huge 930 thread (check towards the end for the 800# and his email). I didn't get a part #, but he knew the exact barrel I needed, and was familiar with the requests from others for the same. Unfortunately, it took 5 weeks to receive, so don't be in a hurry to get one. To be fair, when I asked to speak to Joe, he was very helpful in ordering the barrel, and on my third status inquiry call, he helped get the barrel completed and shipped in a few days). I do have a 28" ported barrel from my 930 waterfowl that's unfired, if you or anyone is interested in it for $100 plus shipping. You'd need to send it to Rose Action Sports to be cut to 24" behind the porting, the forcing cone opened up and threaded for chokes (I believe that's $95). That was my Plan B, if this barrel order fell through. Brian

Ahh, that explains it. All I got was the tube and spring in a plastic sealed bag. I'll trim it to 16" over tube length and try again. Thanks for letting me know.

I've just completed my 930 3-gun shotgun and I'm very happy with the results. Got the unported 24" turkey barrel from Mossberg, Nordic bolt handle, +5 feed tube and clamp. Put it all together and it test functions great. What's confusing me is my shotgun will only hold 8 shells in the tube, despite buying a +5 Nordic feed tube (which added to the stock 4 shell capacity). Do I have to trim the spring to get #9 in there? It only goes in 1/2 way right now. My tube is about .75" shorter than the 24" barrel when installed, so I'm pretty sure it's a +5, and not a +4 mis-labeled. I ordered all my parts from Midway. Any one have this same issue? [uPDATE] Per the great advice in this thread, I did fail to trim the stock spring to length. Hard to know that when no instructions come with the tube & spring! It loads 9 shells with ease now.

Same thing here. I filed the gouge down and sanded the feed tube with some 320. Decided to coat the feed tube in a light coat of Duracoat since I sanded the bluing off. Took a Dremel with a small sanding drum and 10 sec later had the spring end ground down. Honestly, that is sub-par by Mossberg to send a new shotgun out the door if the assembler had to shove the barrel on enough to cause the gouges my shotgun had.

I just picked up a 935 for $250 at a local pawn shop. Hard to ignore at that price. It's got a 26" VR barrel with a fiber front sight and a LimbSaver precision fit butt pad. I'm going to sink $100 into a Nordic +6 tube, a barrel clamp and few bucks on a 930 SPX contract-overrun bolt handle I found on eBay. I was told by several others that their 935 feeds and shoots 2.75" shells fine, but for added reliability, I read adding a Remington 1100 o-ring to the end of the gas piston stack on the feed tube will help feed and eject lighter 2.75" target loads. I'm not suggesting you look for a 935 over a 930. Only that they can shoot 2.75" shells, so it shouldn't be a deal-breaker.

I use the glowing FO front to track the front sight during recoil and transitions, but I always use the flat top of the FS for the final sight alignment before calling the shot. I like how bright it can be, but you can apply a little flat black paint to part of the fiber to cut down on it's intensity.

Yes, I run a 14lb Wolff spring with a steel guide rod. Recoil is very flat and the slide speed is fast without beating up the frame.

Ya, I shot the Real Steel event Sunday at DPC. Got to shoot a Texas Star for the first time. -- Brian

I don't. I just loaded 200 rounds of the following and shot a steel match this weekend without issue: 180gr RNFP copper plated 3.6gr TG CCI primer mixed brass 1.135" OAL It's very soft shooting (like a 9mm) and very accurate. I tried bare lead bullets, but TG powder makes them a smoke show, and my stock G22 barrel was leading up after 200 rounds. I'll pay a few $$ more for plated bullets.

Ok, thanks for the confirmation. Any other powder recomendations to to use with those Kead lead bullets I can get locally besides WST or Solo 1000? Bullseye?

OK, got into reloading for my G22 and my first batch is turning out to shoot more like black powder loads than smokeless... holy cow. Load data: 180 gr. lead hard cast Kead bullets 3.5 grns. Titegroup 1.135" OAL Is it because these are not jacketed bullets? I've never heard any complaints on this board about TG being a really dirty or smokey powder.

I just emailed Ray. He replied he's retiring (why the old ray-vin page is down), but he's turned the bully barrel design & production over to another party. He said to watch the forums (he didn't mention any by name) for when they'll become available and how much they will cost.

The top smaller pin is the slide stop pivot/locking block pin. The lower (larger) pin is the trigger pin. The wire spring on the upper SS pin keeps the lower trigger pin in place.

That pin is held in by the slide stop. I'd replace the pin if the groove is worn or rounded, or the slide stop if the SS hole the pin goes through is worn. I believe the locking block pin is reversible, and has slide stop slots on both ends.

Got some more material in and after a little tweaking and two cardboard templates, I created a 1911 mag pouch for my Kimber. I flared the mouth a little to make them easier to insert, but other than that, it's based on the Glock mag pouch one-piece design. I'm probably going to make 4~5 more of them in case I want to shoot Single Stack as well. I'm really diggin' this Kydex stuff.

I had to use 275~300 in a toaster oven for about 4~5 min to get it nice a soft. If you leave it in for less, or let it cool for 1 min after you remove it, it will start to firm up. When it's full temp, the kydex is the consistency of tanned leather.

Thanks Alan! I'll make a sample with some of my extra material and see if the more rounded radii are beneficial.

A scroll saw would be great, but the edges must be sanded and dressed before forming. I'm trying to develop a way to cut them out and have a clean, smooth edge in the process, eliminating time to produce and labor, as well as a nicer finished product.

I ordered a few more 12x12" sheets myself to design and make some similar pouches for my 1911 so I can shoot in Single Stack if I wanted. I am trying to test a different way of cutting Kydex with a hot wire cutter and a metal template to trace while I cut (like a hot wire band saw). I'm a little concerned about potential heath hazards of inhaling melting Kydex smoke though. If I can perfect a way of efficiently cutting these out in quantity, I'll figured I'd like to offer them for sale for $12 for those who would prefer a finished product and not a project.

Alan, that's really cool of you to create those reference files. I'm going to scout around town here in N. Dallas and see if any sign shops can cut this pattern out for me in quantities of four if I supply them 12"x9" sheets. Like I said, 80% of the labor is in the scribing and cutting. The rest I actually enjoyed.

Thanks for all the input. I just installed these Heinies, and I hate to pull the rear sight and spend another $50 on a second Warren rear. Thought I could try and ruin my sight first with a file before I do that.

I thought about offering some for sale, but I need to perfect a way to cut out the pattern that's not so labor intensive per unit. The heat forming only takes 5 min. I'll keep everyone posted with a new process I'm evaluating that would let me stack and cut multiple sheets at a time with very little clean up needed.