RevolverJockey Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 OK, so say you are thinking of getting into revolver, and are sitting on a mountain of .40 brass and plan to shoot lead (casting it for free). How far behind are you with a 4" 610? I assume there is a reason most people run a 625 5" but I dont think I will be toppling Jerry M. anytime soon. Also, I have a 1050 set up in .40 and plan to want to convert to .45 - at most I would get a SDB. Ideas? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airedale Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 OK, so say you are thinking of getting into revolver, and are sitting on a mountain of .40 brass and plan to shoot lead (casting it for free). How far behind are you with a 4" 610? I assume there is a reason most people run a 625 5" but I dont think I will be toppling Jerry M. anytime soon. Also, I have a 1050 set up in .40 and plan to want to convert to .45 - at most I would get a SDB. Ideas? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. The 25/625 is the choice for revolver division. However, given your .40 situation, the 610 is a logical choice. There's a nice 610 package in the classifieds. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 I don't think the difference is all that huge. If you have everything else all set up for .40, the 610 might make a lot of sense for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 Kind of what I was thinking, I have talked to Mike about the package he has on there. How is recoil in .40 major in a .40 rev? Very limited experience with revolver, but wouldn't mind not having to pick up brass - lol. I properly cared for what is the lifespan or a revolver - like how many k before it just cant be rebuilt anymore? Also, I can get a RN mold made and shoot around 175 LRN. Thanks for the fast replies. I might have my mind made in enough time to snag that 610 afterall. Almost forgot, thoughts on the 4" bbl - good for transitions and recovery, bad for recoil and 50 yds, or do the same principles apply to revolver? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 I don't think the difference is all that huge. If you have everything else all set up for .40, the 610 might make a lot of sense for you. And there are 6" 610's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 I don't think the difference is all that huge. If you have everything else all set up for .40, the 610 might make a lot of sense for you. And there are 6" 610's? There are, or at least you can get a 6" barrel for one, but the one I am looking at is the 3 7/8" Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airedale Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Kind of what I was thinking, I have talked to Mike about the package he has on there. How is recoil in .40 major in a .40 rev? Very limited experience with revolver, but wouldn't mind not having to pick up brass - lol. I properly cared for what is the lifespan or a revolver - like how many k before it just cant be rebuilt anymore? Also, I can get a RN mold made and shoot around 175 LRN. Thanks for the fast replies. I might have my mind made in enough time to snag that 610 afterall. Almost forgot, thoughts on the 4" bbl - good for transitions and recovery, bad for recoil and 50 yds, or do the same principles apply to revolver? Mrs. Airedale shot a 3 7/8" 610 for a season and didn't complain about the recoil. (chrono'd 180 PF at one Ky sectional-whoops!) She transitioned to an L frame revolver as it felt better to her. The 610 is a tank and the weight kills quite a bit of recoil. I doubt that you would ever get enough rounds through it to wear it out. You may wear out a part or two but revo's are pretty simple. Carmoney may have some better data on that. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 Thanks for all the information guys. Given the smaller diameter, and increased number of reloads, is that something that should be considered when shooping for a revolver? Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Griffin Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Not sure what you mean by "increased number of reloads." If you're talking about not losing brass, I can't think of what the downside would be. You can't go above 6 rounds for USPSA, so a 7 or 8 shot is out of the question. I messed with a 610 a bit and it felt pretty good to me, snappier but not heavy. Ultimately bullet selection is what made me stick with the .45, but if you're casting a RN .40, then by all means have at it. H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted March 30, 2009 Author Share Posted March 30, 2009 (edited) Not sure what you mean by "increased number of reloads." If you're talking about not losing brass, I can't think of what the downside would be. You can't go above 6 rounds for USPSA, so a 7 or 8 shot is out of the question.I messed with a 610 a bit and it felt pretty good to me, snappier but not heavy. Ultimately bullet selection is what made me stick with the .45, but if you're casting a RN .40, then by all means have at it. H. I made a poorly worded question. I ment seeing as you will do more reloads in revolver, losing time would be more of a concern. I can cast pretty much any bullet, so that is less not the determining factor, it is more the cost of the complete caliber conversion and priming system for the 1050. Would the difficulty reloading .40 vice .45 be a signiciant problem? Lee Edited March 30, 2009 by Mitch_Rapp.45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airedale Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Would the difficulty reloading .40 vice .45 be a signiciant problem? Lee Short answer-no. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 The answer is...what kind of person are ya? Are you a "pick one and practice" type? Or, are you a "let me upgrade this 18 times...then turn around and buy something else because it must be better and I just gotta have it" type? Me, if I had a 1050 setup for 40 and wanted to stick with the same bullets, load, primers, etc... then the 610 would make sense to me. Your brass supply might not be that big of a factor? You will need brass that drops in those tight (tighter than a Glock chamber) cylinders easily. And, whatever brass you use for the wheelie...you will be getting all the same brass back in your moon clips...be it 40, 10mm or 45. When I was considering a revolver and was loading nothing but 40...40 was how I was going to go. I wasn't loading 45 for anything and wasn't setup to do so...wasn't even setup to load large pistol primers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 I don't think the difference is all that huge. If you have everything else all set up for .40, the 610 might make a lot of sense for you. And there are 6" 610's? Well, I got a 6.5" 610 Friday(Thanks Mikey357 it is great) ent to a match with it Saturday. Had problems hitting the reloads. Shotg another match Sunday finished top haslf overall. The gun is heavier than my 1955 Target but the recoil of the 40 is a lot easier on my arthritic hands than the 45. I will work with it for a few weeks and see how it goes before I make the final decision but it looks like a definite contender as my primary USPSA revolver. Working toward the A7 in August. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snertley Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 (edited) I've been shooting a 6.5inch 610 for 2yrs now and love it. Recoil with major loads is very soft and hardly raises the muzzle. On reloading the 610 you do have to pay more attention to your moons orientation to the charging holes. I've found it best to "see it into" the cylinder. I did put a fairly aggressive champher on the charging holes. Just make sure you do not cut to deep and get into the area that supports the case web. Wellcome and good luck! Jon Edited March 31, 2009 by snertley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 I have one of the 610s with a 3 7/8" barrel and with my normal Major .40 it's really quite a pussycat. I haven't done a ton of accuracy work with it at extended distances using .40 in it but the indications are good at normal ranges. The primers do look a little funny....maybe because it's a small primer and the gun is set up for large...not sure. Other than that it's a sweet combination. I shouldn't have, but I let my wife shoot it a bunch and now it's her nightstand gun....she just loves it and shoots it fine with full throttle 10mm. R, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sargenv Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 I really prefer the 6.5" 610 over the 4". Less muzzle rise, longer sight radius and it comes out of the holster as fast as about a second and change. I did manage a .99 on target at 10 yards last week, but in competition I'm still running about 1.5-1.75 seconds depending on the first target. The gun just feels more stable. I watched someone shooting a 3 7/8" this weekend shooting factory ammo and he was unfortunately all over the place. I choose to shoot Minor and I'm on the cusp of A. I just started casting my own since no one made exactly the shape I wanted.. so now I have few excuses.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey357 Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 RGS, GLAD you LIKE the 610! Now, IF I could find a FIVE-inch 610 for LESS THAN an "Arm and a Leg", I think I'd give IT a try...it would be a lil' HEAVIER than the 625 five-incher, but not as "Front Heavy" as the six-and-a-half incher...MIGHT be the "Best of ALL Worlds"...mikey357 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 Yeah, the 5" 610s are pretty sweet, in my view the best of the bunch for what we do. However, there really aren't all that many of them out there. I did see a really nice looking one on Gunbroker a week or two ago with a buy-it-now price of $900. Given the state of the industry right now, that might not be all that bad. I picked one up in a deal awhile back and then sold it off, can't remember now what it brought but it wasn't a whole lot less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 Yeah, the 5" 610s are pretty sweet, in my view the best of the bunch for what we do. However, there really aren't all that many of them out there. I did see a really nice looking one on Gunbroker a week or two ago with a buy-it-now price of $900. Given the state of the industry right now, that might not be all that bad. I picked one up in a deal awhile back and then sold it off, can't remember now what it brought but it wasn't a whole lot less. If somebody would tool up and make a nice 5" replacement barrel for the 610 I think they'd sell a bunch of them! For what I do I like the 3 7/8" barrel, but I can definitely see how an extra inch and an eigth would be a nice balance for USPSA. R, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 You could always cut a 6.5" 610 down to 5" without too much effort. This is the kind of scenario, by the way, that led a group of us here to campaign the BOD to change the Revolver Division rules to allow replacement barrels, modified barrels, and aftermarket barrels. As long as it's not ported or comped, you can pretty much put whatever tube you want on your Revo and have at it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Sweeney Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 Since you are casting your own, look at bullet design in molds. The standard 180 flatnose design for 40/10 sucks in revolver. Getting those meplats to find the charge holes just takes too much time on the reloads. What you want is a round nose, and the longer and pointier the nose, the better. However, you also have to go with what the gun shoots well, as you can't be giving up points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey357 Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 (edited) I actually DID think about "Cutting Down" the 6 & 1/2 inch 610 that RGS ended up with...Three things stopped me... First, it is a pretty decent "Pre-Lock" revovler, and in about a hundred years, it MIGHT be worth something in its' original configuration...Second, it has that CURSED UNfluted cylinder--canya'tellIdon'tlike'em??? Third is the COST of having one "Cut Down"...guess I'm just a CHEAP S.O.B. at heart... ....mikey357 You could always cut a 6.5" 610 down to 5" without too much effort. This is the kind of scenario, by the way, that led a group of us here to campaign the BOD to change the Revolver Division rules to allow replacement barrels, modified barrels, and aftermarket barrels. As long as it's not ported or comped, you can pretty much put whatever tube you want on your Revo and have at it! Edited April 1, 2009 by mikey357 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9146gt Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 S&W has 6.5" barrels in stock that can be cut down to 5". Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Second, it has that CURSED UNfluted cylinder--canya'tellIdon'tlike'em??? Man, and I love unfluted cylinders on N frames! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey357 Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Yeah, I'm kinda' FUNNY about the UNfluted cylinder thing...I THINK it's a PROPORTION thing, or something...maybe, "Phase of the Moon"???...I've got one of the three-inch barreled Model 629 "Snubbies" that "Looks Fine" to my eyes...but the LONGER-barreled guns just don't cut it, IMHO, with the UNfluted "Wheel"...FUNNY, I know... On a slightly DIFFERENT subject, I notice that "Bud's" shows the six-and-a-half inch 610's "In Stock", and with the FLUTED "Wheel"...hhmmm...anybody know a GOOD 'smith who'll cut one down for a REASONABLE Price???...hhmmm....mikey357 Second, it has that CURSED UNfluted cylinder--canya'tellIdon'tlike'em??? Man, and I love unfluted cylinders on N frames! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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