Spray_N_Prey Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Ok I was at a match today and during a reload somehow I saw a bullet that came out of the brass and was in the cylinder not allowing the following moonclip to seat. I thought I was crimping enough, could this have just been a fluck (spelling?) ??? What do you guys crimp to on revolver rounds? thank god the cylinder won't close with a 230grain bullet in there, I think the outcome if two bullets where in the cylinder would be bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaiserb Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Ok I was at a match today and during a reload somehow I saw a bullet that came out of the brass and was in the cylinder not allowing the following moonclip to seat. I thought I was crimping enough, could this have just been a fluck (spelling?) ???What do you guys crimp to on revolver rounds? thank god the cylinder won't close with a 230grain bullet in there, I think the outcome if two bullets where in the cylinder would be bad. I use a Redding Taper Crimp die. It is set tight enough to keep the bullets from walking out of the brass when firing the revolver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooterj Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Is it possible that round didn't go through the crimp die? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmax Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 (edited) Taper crimp and then add another 1/4 turn when you think you have enough. When we shot pins at Second Chance where 255gr bullets were the norm with very heavy loads. They would quickly walk without adequate crimp. I have used Dillon die sets for years w/o problem but haved used CH & RCBS TC dies with success. Edited March 23, 2009 by jmax Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cas Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 (edited) What type bullet? Last match I found one of my loaded but ejected rounds had pulled quite a bit. I was surprised, it was a first for me. (at least with something with so little recoil as a 45Acp.) Edited March 23, 2009 by cas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Common problem, and yet another reason to use plenty of crimp (a roll crimp is best, but a good tight taper crimp is fine, too) on revolver ammo. In my opinion, most shooters don't crimp their revolver ammo enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel1212 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 A .45 load with a lead round nose should measure .472 with no crimp on a finished round with a bullet that mikes at .452. For autos I make the crimp .001 or a measurement of .471. With my 625 I've found I need a crimp of .004 or a measurement of .468. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirpy Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 I had a situation with TZZ Match brass. When I loaded this brass with my normal crimp the bullet pushed deaper in the case! Reset the die and redid all the TZZ. New setting doesn't seem to hurt other loads any. FWIW Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
festus1 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 How does Dillon's "accu-crimp" die compare with taper crimp and roll crimp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20nickels Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 +1 on the Redding Profile Crimp. A taper crimp followed up with a sharp roll crimp. Could use a couple more. The RCBS roll crimp is popular. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spray_N_Prey Posted March 23, 2009 Author Share Posted March 23, 2009 Common problem, and yet another reason to use plenty of crimp (a roll crimp is best, but a good tight taper crimp is fine, too) on revolver ammo. In my opinion, most shooters don't crimp their revolver ammo enough. So do they sell a roll crimp for 45 acp? also since I load for auto's also, Should I avoid a roll crimp for automatics? I have never had a problem before, but I will crimp a bit more. thanks to all for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Too much taper crimp can be as bad as too little. You squish the case mouth diameter down too much in the taper crimp die and the brass rebounds some but the lead doesn't. You're not gripping the bullet anymore. For .45acp it seems (depending on the brass's wall thickness) a crimped case mouth diameter of .468"-.470" is about right. I was having the bullet creep issue and backing off the crimp fixed it. I tried more crimp first and they crept more. Get out the inertial bullet puller and pull a bullet and see how much you're squishing it. A roll crimp with plated or coated bullets and no cannelure gets you into issues with cutting the plating/coating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boats Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 Sometimes a split neck that slipped by inspection will do this too. Everything else fine but that particular case won't hold the bullet tight. Boats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirpy Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 Sn'P Yes they sell a roll crimp for .45...try to find an old set for .45 Auto Rim which is a revo round used in revos without moons. Should have a RC die in it. FWIW Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intel6 Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 I use a Redding profile crimp for .45 Auto Rim, not ACP. The AR PC is a roll crimp and it also puts a slight taper on the round and I have found it to increase the consistency of my loads. Neal in AZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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