cliffwalsh Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 I was shooting my 627 today to chrono some loads for the southern regional and I noticed the firing pin was stuck in the out position. I could not push it back with my finger. I took it out and put a new on in along with a new spring and the same think happened. It seems to work OK with ammo and only sticks when I dry fire. It has the c&s extended pin. Anyone have this happen?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bwana Six-Gun Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 (edited) I was shooting my 627 today to chrono some loads for the southern regional and I noticed the firing pin was stuck in the out position. I could not push it back with my finger. I took it out and put a new on in along with a new spring and the same think happened. It seems to work OK with ammo and only sticks when I dry fire. It has the c&s extended pin.Anyone have this happen?? Cliff, Tell me you aren't already starting to snivel for excuses. Stop Dry-firing! Edited March 18, 2009 by Bwana Six-Gun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 You answered your own question. It's a C&S extended pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg K Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 The C&S extended pins forward travel is not stopped by the retaining pin like the factory pin. The forward travel is only stopped by the springs coils stacking and running into the firing pin bushing, thats why you should never dry fire a C&S pin without snap caps. I also found that the older C&S pins were a little large and needed to be turned down a little for free travel. The newer C&S pins are actually better than the old and are the right size. You still shouldn't dry fire the new pins without the snap caps. I have fired around 30K with one of the new style pins and haven't broke one of the new style yet. The quality of the old ones really did stink. I have been dissapointed with everything else I have tried from C&S including their service but the new pins seem to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 If you can't find one of the .492"+ S&W titanium pins, get one of Randy's pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnRodriguez Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 are you sure you didn't spill and beer in it and now its just sticky? if you are using cut down FP springs, just make sure that the cut coil is facing to the front of the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgarrity Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Don't Compromise,Carmonize! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 My guess would be a burr, or piece of brass, in the tunnel is catching the radius at the base of the FP. Although from your spelling, you might need a little more lubricant for the Targeting Computer, to help settle the pre match nerves. Good Luck this weekend. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffl Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 i think this is not just C&S pins. Little FFL's did the same thing for a while. I think i put a randy pin in . Can't remember I have slept since then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJDOUBLETAP Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 The C&S extended pins forward travel is not stopped by the retaining pin like the factory pin. The forward travel is only stopped by the springs coils stacking and running into the firing pin bushing, thats why you should never dry fire a C&S pin without snap caps. I also found that the older C&S pins were a little large and needed to be turned down a little for free travel. The newer C&S pins are actually better than the old and are the right size. You still shouldn't dry fire the new pins without the snap caps. I have fired around 30K with one of the new style pins and haven't broke one of the new style yet. The quality of the old ones really did stink. I have been dissapointed with everything else I have tried from C&S including their service but the new pins seem to work. Agreed. The new C&S pins work good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJDOUBLETAP Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 My guess would be a burr, or piece of brass, in the tunnel is catching the radius at the base of the FP.Dave +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 The new C&S pins work good. Finally they are acceptable? How many years did they sell the crap version? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 If you can't find one of the .492"+ S&W titanium pins, get one of Randy's pins. Having tested every firing pin available, I have concluded that the round-nosed Ti factory pins that measure about .495" work the best. In my testing with both the C&S pin and the Randy pin, I have not been able to reduce mainspring tension any lower than I can with the .495" Ti stock pin. Those of you who are experiencing improvement in ignition after installing the aftermarket pins are undoubtedly making a comparison to the later "California drop test" generation of factory pins, which measure about .485", have a conical tip, and suck big-time. When my small supply of the "good" Ti pins runs out, I will have to switch over to one of the aftermarket options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxshooter Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 I just checked my Carmonized 627 and the firing pin retracts when I dry fire it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Cliff, While I can only be guessing I would concurr with pskys2's assesment, If it was working before and is now sticking could be a burr, on the pin or channel, or the spring. With the firing pin sticking out would be a cause of the pins breaking as the cylinder turns, Hope you get it fixed for the match. I have broke a good many while I was shooitn the Taurus I once owned. Good luck. later rdd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffwalsh Posted March 18, 2009 Author Share Posted March 18, 2009 I just checked my Carmonized 627 and the firing pin retracts when I dry fire it. What else does it do??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffwalsh Posted March 18, 2009 Author Share Posted March 18, 2009 Cliff, While I can only be guessing I would concurr with pskys2's assesment, If it was working before and is now sticking could be a burr, on the pin or channel, or the spring. With the firing pin sticking out would be a cause of the pins breaking as the cylinder turns, Hope you get it fixed for the match. I have broke a good many while I was shooitn the Taurus I once owned. Good luck. later rdd Bubber, I agree with you and Dave. Bob Perdue also said the same thing. I know it happened yesterday. The gun ran perfect for 4 years. I don't think it was the firing pin. It did the same thing with 2 different pins. I am just not able to find the burr or whatever it is. I have cleaned out the channel and there is nothing in it, no broken spring, brass etc. It worked with live ammo so I think I can get through the southern regional. Bwana will be there so I shouldn't be last in any case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 One other thing, have you checked closely that it's not actually the hammer or maybe even the Cylinder Release Strap binding and not allowing the hammer to retract far enough? I had that Strap break on 2 different revolvers and it can cause some weird problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffwalsh Posted March 18, 2009 Author Share Posted March 18, 2009 One other thing, have you checked closely that it's not actually the hammer or maybe even the Cylinder Release Strap binding and not allowing the hammer to retract far enough?I had that Strap break on 2 different revolvers and it can cause some weird problems. Hammer is good. The firing pin sticks if I push it up to the top of the channel by hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Cliff, I had a similar situation recently on a customer's gun, tried a couple firing pins, cleaned the channel, sprayed it out with brake cleaner, etc., etc., and the (factory) pin kept sticking forward. Finally I tried a different firing pin spring and then everything was instantly fine. The old spring looked OK, but it was obviously causing some sort of problem in there. So.....have you tried using a different firing pin spring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bwana Six-Gun Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 "Bwana will be there so I shouldn't be last in any case" Keep it up Cliff. I have a special gift for you at this match. I am sure you will like it. See you Friday night or Saturday morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJDOUBLETAP Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 Cliff, I had a similar situation recently on a customer's gun, tried a couple firing pins, cleaned the channel, sprayed it out with brake cleaner, etc., etc., and the (factory) pin kept sticking forward. Finally I tried a different firing pin spring and then everything was instantly fine. The old spring looked OK, but it was obviously causing some sort of problem in there. So.....have you tried using a different firing pin spring? Mike, I had the same problem on one of my dads guns, changed the spring, still no luck. Might work though... Cliff, get a tiny drill bit or somthing and stick into the firing pin channel to see if there are any burrs. Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg K Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 Cliff I had forgot that on my 625 I had to chamfer the back side of the hole in my firing pin bushing. I had a small diamond ball grinder for a dremel that was just right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffwalsh Posted March 19, 2009 Author Share Posted March 19, 2009 CliffI had forgot that on my 625 I had to chamfer the back side of the hole in my firing pin bushing. I had a small diamond ball grinder for a dremel that was just right. I just got home from Dave's Supreme Gunsmithing World Headquarters. We did exactly what CJ and Gregg suggested. Polished the channel and chanfered the back side of the bushing. He also polished the pin. It seems to work fine now. I don't think I will get to shoot it before the match but I know everyone (except Bwana) will wish me the best. Yes Mike, the first thing I did was change the pin and the spring. That did not help at all but I did notice that the original spring had been trimmed so I threw it out. Now I have a factory spring in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffwalsh Posted March 19, 2009 Author Share Posted March 19, 2009 "Bwana will be there so I shouldn't be last in any case"Keep it up Cliff. I have a special gift for you at this match. I am sure you will like it. See you Friday night or Saturday morning. A present for me??? I can't wait. Is it cold and comes in sets of 24????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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