Sarge Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 (edited) My last brief reloading session resulted in 3 or 4 primer seating issues. This really fouls up the process. I get most of my brass from the range. Can I get a swaging tool and just swage every piece of brass? Is it even possible to swage pistol brass? Being new to metallic reloading I am not sure. If so It can't hurt right? I really don't care about being time consuming I just don't want to have to clear the 550 malfunctions. If needed is the Dillon the way to go? Thanks Edited March 12, 2009 by sandman78 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viggen Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 What kind of equipment and such are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D. Manley Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 My last brief reloading session resulted in 3 or 4 primer seating issues. This really fouls up the process. I get most of my brass from the range. Can I get a swaging tool and just swage every piece of brass? Is it even possible to swage pistol brass? Being new to metallic reloading I am not sure. If so It can't hurt right? I really don't care about being time consuming I just don't want to have to clear the 550 malfunctions. If needed is the Dillon the way to go? Thanks You really should'nt *need* to swage normal, commercial brass. If you're picking up a lot of NATO WCC or even commercial S&B (which, tends to be tight and lack chamfer) then that's different. When using a swage tool, you'll find there is variation in the thickness of the case head among brands and often requires adjusting a bit to match. FWIW, I use the Dillon Super Swage and it seems to me you *might* be able to adjust the tool to find a "sweet spot" that would not alter a normal pocket but would "bump" a tight one. I really don't know if it's consistently workable over multi brands but I suspect it may be doable. At the moment I've ran through all the crimped cases I have on hand and with that setting, I checked it with normal brass. For the most part, I encounter no resistance...on the occasional commercial case I feel a slight resistance toward the end of the stroke. YMMV... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted March 12, 2009 Author Share Posted March 12, 2009 What kind of equipment and such are you using? Not sure what you are asking 550B, mixed headstamp 9mm range brass, WSP's. Seems like most of the brass was Winchester that gave me the problems, although nothing seemed to deprime too hard. A few of the primers went a little more than half way in while 1 or 2 only went in a very small amount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 Winchester had Sellior and Belliot load some ammo for them to keep up(or so I was told....) so you might be getting some of the brass that has tight pockets.... You can run it through a friends press that has a 1050 with the swage rod, or take a Xacto knife and run it around the rim of the offending brass. That should do it for that piece of brass for the life of the case. I agree a tool would be better, I would get a Sinclair catalog and see what case prep tools might catch your eye... Good luck, DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 +1 on the S&B brass. I tried a few tonight after loading and actually could see the difference in the size of the pocket on one piece. Noticabley smaller. Primer dead stopped against the brass. about half of the WIN brass did not take primer all the way and WCC took none. I am guessing WCC is military? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D. Manley Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 +1 on the S&B brass. I tried a few tonight after loading and actually could see the difference in the size of the pocket on one piece. Noticabley smaller. Primer dead stopped against the brass. about half of the WIN brass did not take primer all the way and WCC took none. I am guessing WCC is military? WCC's are gonna' be crimped. If you've got a lot of it (or regularly get lots of it) a swager might be a good idea...WCC is good brass once it's prepped. I've not seen any S&B that's actually crimped but some are very tight and they tend to have a sharp corner on the pockets...virtually no bevel at all. Only curious thing is the Winchester...I have no problems whatsoever with them. If some were truly "subbed out" to S&B, that could explain it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chills1994 Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 I hear a chamfering/deburring tool that is normally used on the mouths of bottle necked rifle cases will work. I have NOT tried it for my self just yet, though. There are some other doo-dads out there that will take out the crimps too. One is a small cutter that could be spun up by the RCBS Trim-mate (prep-mate) center. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VegasOPM Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 (edited) I load a LOT of 9mm on a 550- 5000 rounds per month lately. All of it is mixed range pickup brass. The S&B and some Win primer pockets are small, but they will take a primer without a hitch- just use moderate pressure. WCCs- especially the +P+ stuff has crimped primer pockets. I use a Lee deburring tool to chamfer the edge of the crimped primer pockets. One turn with light pressure (just enough to make the edge shine a bit) is plenty to get the job done. When I load on my 550, I pick up the brass and turn it over before loading it into the press to look at the headstamp and make sure there is no polishing media, .22 casings, rocks, etc in the case. If I see it is a crimped case, I size and deprime- then pull the case out to chamfer the pocket- then finish the priming stroke. If I see an AMERC or other unfriendly case- it goes in the trash. If a case doesn't seem to want to take the primer, I pull it out and chamfer, then try again. If it still doesn't work- chuck it. At the end of every 100 rounds loaded, I will size and decap a couple of cases extra. If I find myself with a bad case and a good primer in the feed pocket- I stick one of the sized and deprimed cases in to finish the cycle. Edited March 13, 2009 by VegasOPM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbbean Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Winchester had Sellior and Belliot load some ammo for them to keep up(or so I was told....) THAT would explain something I've been seeing in my .40 brass. Seems like 1 round in every 15 or 20 will be just tight enough to feel different, but not so tight as to stop me. When I check these, they are invariably Winchesters or S&B. But it isn't consistent. Most of teh Winchester and S&B loads just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baer45 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 I am just now trying to deal with the same issue on my S1050. I have one 1050 set up to do 45 acp and the chamfer (Dillion Super Swage) takes care of all brass I run through it. my second 1050 that I am setting up now is for 9 mm only and I was running into problems last night with primers seating consistently...I think it will just be a matter of taking the time to adjust my swage die properly and also I think I am going to have to end up sorting my brass a whole lot more then I do for my 45... I even leave the little plastic piece off of the primer station so I do not have to constantly take it off and on when there is a primer problem...not good...I will watch with interest to see what you come up with..! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canuck223 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 I am just now trying to deal with the same issue on my S1050. I have one 1050 set up to do 45 acp and the chamfer (Dillion Super Swage) takes care of all brass I run through it. my second 1050 that I am setting up now is for 9 mm only and I was running into problems last night with primers seating consistently...I think it will just be a matter of taking the time to adjust my swage die properly and also I think I am going to have to end up sorting my brass a whole lot more then I do for my 45...I even leave the little plastic piece off of the primer station so I do not have to constantly take it off and on when there is a primer problem...not good...I will watch with interest to see what you come up with..! If you adjust your swager to very lightly swage every case, you will be amazed at how few primer issues you have. A monster munch is not required. Just be sure the backing rod supports the case from the inside, and the swager collar kisses the edge of the primer pocket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted April 1, 2009 Author Share Posted April 1, 2009 Just a quick follow up. I am still on the hunt for a hand deburring tool. It is amazing how even the oddest things are out of stock at midway! I do seem to come across quite a bit of WCC at the local range. I have also found some of the S&B that won't prime as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plinker625 Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 www.gunstop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark K Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 I run a 650, and run into this issue when I load 9mm as well. For me it is typically cases marked FC NT. I have considered getting a Dillon Swagging machine. However, the additional time it takes to clear the offending cases (maybe 1-2 per hundred) compared to swaging all the brass just does not make sense. Cost-wise does not make much sense. I can buy 5k of once fired 9mm cases for the cost of the swagger. I just through the offending cased in the scrap brass bin. Mark K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
45junkie Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 I agree with Mark K, but you can also use a counter sink to debur the offending brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now