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Hornady LNL Progressive Press


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I know that most people here are Dillon snobs. It is understandable, since they make a good product and have great support. However, I recently bought a Hornady LNL progressive press. I do not intend to discuss the merits of blue vs red here, but rather to show one of the modifications I've made to the press, in case anyone here finds it useful.

I'm loading 38 super, and I want to add a bullet feeder. Hornady die sets usually have a separate powder drop station and expander station, but they do offer a powder through expander. I found it difficult to adjust and couldn't get the correct amount of bell in the case mouth. I know others have had the same problem, since there is a lot of discussion of how to properly do it on other forums. Furthermore, I didn't like the way the mechanism 'tops out' to get the pressure to bell the case. My measure was leaning and twisting, and the levers that move the rotor were taking all the torque needed to bell the case. It just didn't feel right...

So, I played around with the spring. I thought that changing the spring tension might take some of the pressure off the levers at the end of the rotor travel. Then I noticed how large the spring posts were, and firgured I could design a slider that would sit behind the spring. The purpose of the slider would be to stop the travel of the powder measure before the rotor 'tops out'. The slider could transfer all the force needed to bell the case to the two bushings that mount to the top and bottom of the powder measure. Furthermore, with a threaded hole in the slider, small and simple adjustments to the travel of the powder measure could be made, and the amount of the bell could easily be controlled.

Pictures of the slider are attached. A link below also shows a video of it in operation. Special thanks to my friend Gene, who took my drawings and machined the slider for me.

Here's the slider with the powder measure at rest:

post-985-1230856269_thumb.jpg

Here's the slider with the powder measure at full throw:

post-985-1230856199_thumb.jpg

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Just out of curiosity, I see an empty die hole in the press, why didn't you move over one downstream and use the separate bell and drop? I ended up using all 5 holes in my 650 in order to add a U-die, but I don't know if you can shift things over a station on this press or not.

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I'm going to add a bullet feeder. The LNL bushings make it easy to move stuff around, so I had the powder measure out front for easy access/photos. It will move to station 2 when I get the bullet feeder.

Make sense?

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...I found it difficult to adjust and couldn't get the correct amount of bell in the case mouth. I know others have had the same problem, since there is a lot of discussion of how to properly do it on other forums. Furthermore, I didn't like the way the mechanism 'tops out' to get the pressure to bell the case. My measure was leaning and twisting, and the levers that move the rotor were taking all the torque needed to bell the case. It just didn't feel right...
It doesn't sound right, either. I notice about 9-10 threads showing between the powder measure body and the clamp that goes around the threaded shaft. Hornady told me it should be 5-7. That might be a factor in the problem, I dunno. I just checked mine and don't see any sign of odd "torque". The pressure should in a straight line against the drop tube, if I am interpreting normal function correctly.

Possible adjustment issue?

Best,

Ben

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I notice about 9-10 threads showing between the powder measure body and the clamp that goes around the threaded shaft. Hornady told me it should be 5-7. That might be a factor in the problem, I dunno.

That's one of the PITAs with the PTEs in this press. It was easy for me to get things right for my .45ACP and .40S&W but for 9mm- this gave me a headache. To get a complete throw of the rotor I needed to add some "material" at the top part of the housing to get decent belling with the 9mm cases. Once it's set up it works like a champ but it was a PITA figuring it out.

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...I found it difficult to adjust and couldn't get the correct amount of bell in the case mouth. I know others have had the same problem, since there is a lot of discussion of how to properly do it on other forums. Furthermore, I didn't like the way the mechanism 'tops out' to get the pressure to bell the case. My measure was leaning and twisting, and the levers that move the rotor were taking all the torque needed to bell the case. It just didn't feel right...
It doesn't sound right, either. I notice about 9-10 threads showing between the powder measure body and the clamp that goes around the threaded shaft. Hornady told me it should be 5-7. That might be a factor in the problem, I dunno. I just checked mine and don't see any sign of odd "torque". The pressure should in a straight line against the drop tube, if I am interpreting normal function correctly.

Possible adjustment issue?

Best,

Ben

I was told four threads and I have had none of the problems others have described online. Worked fine from the get go for .38 and 45 even before I polished the bell bushings. I'm also told FWIW taking the side to side rotational play out of the equation will make it drop more accurately although I do not see how. I would be interested to hear if yours did Jeff.

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I load 38 Super Comp on LNL. I gave up on the powder thur expander and use the Hornady New Deminson Expander it works better than any thing I have tried. I got rid of my Dillon 38 Super Die, they are junk, blue or not. Loading with the Hornady Die requires much less effort and the loaded rounds come out a lot beter and consistent.

I have also tired the Egw under sized die and other Lee dies the Hornady Die are the best.

I also load 40, 9 mm, 45, and 223.

There are a few tricks that you learn on the LNL. The spring ejector takes a little adjusting and the shell plate tension also is important a little too much and you don't get the right index for primers too little and cases start leaning making it hard to size and deprime. When you get the ejector right you can use the 5 th station and cases don't shoot across the room. Also put a little lub on the ejector spring at the shell plate washer to keep it from backing out the bolt. Take a look at the powder measure from time to time, I had the plastic tube fall off and got a lap full of powder.

I like your mod, if I start using the powder thur I may try it.

I also use a case pro for 38 Super Comp, this makes for a very reliable open gun. A lot of 38 Super brass is bulged like glocks because they are loaded with too much pressure, look at your primers if they are flat chances are the bottom of the case is pooched out. I use N350 shoots soft makes power factor consistently and no pressure signs.

Make life easy get a pistol powder insert for every caliber you load, just pop it out then put the next one in and save 15 or 20 minutes adjusting the powder measure, the bushing are great set it forget it pop it in pop it out.

I have had mine for a year, 15,000+ rounds thur it no problems. I'm going for the case feeder. Let me know how the bullet feeder works.

Ron

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That is cool Jeff. I load on a Dillon but I use the Hornady die for seating. when I load rifle rounds on the dillon I use the Hornady powder setup. I loaded plenty of long range bullets that worked good on prairie dogs past 600 yards.

seams like you could do the same thing the other way around for Pistole rounds and just put the dillon powder set on the Hornady

The new dillon powder sets are much better than the older ones.

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The PTE for 9mm is about my only complaint with my L-N-L AP. I can't get anywhere near enough bell to load lead/moly for my Production gun. If you're interested in selling me one of these do-dads please hit me up with a PM. I'd like to try one. Thanks much! :cheers:

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Thanks for the replies everyone.

Unfortunately, I didn't do any drop variation studies before and after the slider installation. I don't know if there was an improvement.

If I lower the bushing to 5-7 threads it doesn't change much. It will bell the cases a little, but I don't like how it tops out the rotor then uses the lever arms to pass the forces to bell the case.

Plus, making on-the-fly bell adjustments is really easy.

Sorry, I don't have any plans to sell them. Not that I haven't had some people interested, or don't want to help, but I didn't make it, I just designed it. I'll give out the plans for free, if anyone wants them.

I did send pictures and plans to Steve Hornady. Maybe they'll pick it up.

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Also why is there a spring in there at all?

I guess gravity/weight isn't enough to pull the LNL powder measure back down to the "neutral position".

:unsure:

You could just go with a bolt between those two posts where the spring is now.

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Honestly, I've never tried it without the return spring. I figured that it was there originally, so I kept it.

I thought about using a bolt as an travel stop, instead of the slider, but I couldn't find a reasonable place to drill large enough holes for it. The posts that hold the spring are hexagonal, and screw into the bushings. Unfortunately, they stop at odd angles, making it difficult to drill a straight holes to make a travel stop.

Oh, and the low primer warning device is an RCBS unit that I painted blue to look like Dillon. Here it is before I painted it:

149134.jpg

Just kidding. But that is a picture of an RCBS product. Who really makes it, and who just relabels it?

Edited by Jeff686
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If I lower the bushing to 5-7 threads it doesn't change much. It will bell the cases a little, but I don't like how it tops out the rotor then uses the lever arms to pass the forces to bell the case.

I wasn't talking about the the bushing, I was thinking of the clamp. Then adjust the die within the LNL bushing. Anyway, it is irrelevant now. Cool idea.

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If I lower the bushing to 5-7 threads it doesn't change much. It will bell the cases a little, but I don't like how it tops out the rotor then uses the lever arms to pass the forces to bell the case.

I wasn't talking about the the bushing, I was thinking of the clamp. Then adjust the die within the LNL bushing. Anyway, it is irrelevant now. Cool idea.

Yea, I knew what you meant. We're talking about the same part. The word 'clamp' is much better than bushing. I wasn't using the correct term. I don't have a very good mechanical vocabulary.

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Honestly, I've never tried it without the return spring. I figured that it was there originally, so I kept it.

I thought about using a bolt as an travel stop, instead of the slider, but I couldn't find a reasonable place to drill large enough holes for it. The posts that hold the spring are hexagonal, and screw into the bushings. Unfortunately, they stop at odd angles, making it difficult to drill a straight holes to make a travel stop.

Oh, and the low primer warning device is an RCBS unit that I painted blue to look like Dillon. Here it is before I painted it:

149134.jpg

Just kidding. But that is a picture of an RCBS product. Who really makes it, and who just relabels it?

That was hilarious! Chills thought he had you on that one. Did it work better after you painted it blue? :ph34r: Maybe I'll paint my LNL blue in the name of science. :roflol:

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Also why is there a spring in there at all?

I guess gravity/weight isn't enough to pull the LNL powder measure back down to the "neutral position".

:unsure:

I've run mine without the spring quite a bit. No problems either way with flake or ball powders.

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I notice about 9-10 threads showing between the powder measure body and the clamp that goes around the threaded shaft. Hornady told me it should be 5-7. That might be a factor in the problem, I dunno.

That's one of the PITAs with the PTEs in this press. It was easy for me to get things right for my .45ACP and .40S&W but for 9mm- this gave me a headache. To get a complete throw of the rotor I needed to add some "material" at the top part of the housing to get decent belling with the 9mm cases. Once it's set up it works like a champ but it was a PITA figuring it out.

getting mine set up for 9mm was a real pain till i relized i was using a 380 case that got mixed in

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Thanks for the replies everyone.

Unfortunately, I didn't do any drop variation studies before and after the slider installation. I don't know if there was an improvement.

If I lower the bushing to 5-7 threads it doesn't change much. It will bell the cases a little, but I don't like how it tops out the rotor then uses the lever arms to pass the forces to bell the case.

Plus, making on-the-fly bell adjustments is really easy.

Sorry, I don't have any plans to sell them. Not that I haven't had some people interested, or don't want to help, but I didn't make it, I just designed it. I'll give out the plans for free, if anyone wants them.

I did send pictures and plans to Steve Hornady. Maybe they'll pick it up.

Jeff,

I too have had problems with my LNL not belling wide enough for cast bullets. The thru die measurers .451 and Hornady thinks I am crazy for wanting more bell for cast bullets. I have it set up for 45acp. Any thoughts or pictures would be great. If you cut the belling part back farther to get more expansion you must readjust the threaded part or will that idea throw off the whole adjustment with the powder drop?

Thanks, James

jrmccomas@comcast.net

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Thanks for the replies everyone.

Unfortunately, I didn't do any drop variation studies before and after the slider installation. I don't know if there was an improvement.

If I lower the bushing to 5-7 threads it doesn't change much. It will bell the cases a little, but I don't like how it tops out the rotor then uses the lever arms to pass the forces to bell the case.

Plus, making on-the-fly bell adjustments is really easy.

Sorry, I don't have any plans to sell them. Not that I haven't had some people interested, or don't want to help, but I didn't make it, I just designed it. I'll give out the plans for free, if anyone wants them.

I did send pictures and plans to Steve Hornady. Maybe they'll pick it up.

Jeff,

I too have had problems with my LNL not belling wide enough for cast bullets. The thru die measurers .451 and Hornady thinks I am crazy for wanting more bell for cast bullets. I have it set up for 45acp. Any thoughts or pictures would be great. If you cut the belling part back farther to get more expansion you must readjust the threaded part or will that idea throw off the whole adjustment with the powder drop?

Thanks, James

jrmccomas@comcast.net

Hi James,

I thought about cutting the belling die down right at the shoulder, so it would be more funnel shaped instead of an abrupt corner. I thought that would give me more flexibility for adjusting the powder drop to add small amounts of additional belling until I had enough. The idea is still valid. However, since the unmodified powder drop doesn't seem real solid and secure when it hits the top of the travel, I was worried I would get an inconsistent bell.

Since adding the slider (see all the above pics and stuff), I found that I don't need to cut the die. Although the shoulder is quite abrupt, it still bells nicely. The slider allows me to quickly and easily fine tune the amount of force applied to bell the brass. The bell that I get is a little more 'trumpet' shaped than I'm used to with other brands, since the brass starts to take a sharp turn as it hits the shoulder. If I had a lathe, I would cut the die down to a 40 or 45 degree angle and make the bell a little deeper but less agressive.

To specifically answer your question, I don't think cutting the belling part back would make it impossible to properly adust the powder drop. However, I've always thought it was difficult to adjust in the first place. With the slider, it is easy.

Oh, also, I'm loading 38super with jacketed bullets. I didn't try to adjust it for 45. I already had a set of 45acp Lee dies and powder measure from my Lee Turret press. I use them to load 45 on the Hornady. I keep the Hornady powder drop set for 38 super.

If you've seen the pictures and video above, that's all the pics I have. I do have a few technical drawings of the slider. I sent them to your email address.

Edited by Jeff686
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Jeff,

Had an opportunity today to do some adjustments on the LNL. Pulled the powder drop / expander and miked the belling section on the two I have. One is .451 and the other is .450. Straight shaft with rounded end. Not enough bell for cast bullets period. Moved around dies and powder measure and put the original belling die back in the five hole system. All is well and I am satisfied the ammo is good and concentric again. The expander needs a redesign to match Dillon's. I do have a case feeder and like that. The LNL press is really HD, but my Dillon is still set up for the Super and it will stay that way.

Thanks for the pictures too.

James

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I recently switched from 9mm back to .45 on my LNL AP. I had to back off the quick-change powder die, as I was getting too much bell from the powder thru expander.

The extra flare was sometimes catching on the seating die. I backed it off a bit and all is well. I'm loading 200 gr LSWC with no shavings or problems.

Edited by ben b.
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  • 1 month later...

A question from a newb LNL'r. I like the bracket mod and may try to replicate it. It seems the problem in search of solution here is to free up a station for a powder cop. If that is correct, then what about this solution? For we who use Lee 4 die sets, the expander is a powder through version. Why not simply put the powder drop in station 2 before exapnding, and place the powder through expander in station 3? A simple wood or plastic dowel of appropriate diameter placed through the top of the power through could act as a powder cop, while expanding. I have not tried this yet, but the idea came to me after searching for a powder cop die, only to find that no one had them in stock. Well actually, I was notified that Natchez now does have them, but paying $16 shipping on a $28 order stops me from ordering. So, please comment and let me know why my idea won't work.

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