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Checkering


45Fundi

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I hope this is the right section...

I'm looking at getting a new 1911 gun. I prefer 25 lpi checkering normally. This gun has VERY sharp 20 lpi checkering.

If my hands are "25 lpi hands" normally and I have the VERY SHARP 20 lpi softened on this gun will I still enjoy shooting it or is even "softened 20 lpi checkering" a tuff man thing. I REALLY want this gun, but do not want to buy it and even after having the checkering softened not enjoy shooting it.

Whats the 101 on 20 lpi checkering? Thanks!

God Bless

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Also, I will be having some other gunsmith work done when/if I have the checkering softened, so do not want to dump the $ in the gun and find out I'm too wimpy to handle the softened 20 lpi checkering. Of course right now I'm thinking more about this gun than sex so I need to hear the ruthless truth soon if 20 lpi checkering is only for guys with steel worker hands :-)

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Have you shot a gun with the 25 lpi checkering? I have two single stacks, one with 20 and one with 30, and I prefer the 20 by a wide margin. The 30 lpi just doesn't feel like it adds much to the handling of the gun. I am not familiar with stippling, but have grip tape on my production gun and looks aside, I think it handles better than the finer checkering.

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The easiest way to dehorn checkering is to take emery cloth (I recommend 220 grit or so) and with a 2-3" wide strip, go over the front strap in a "shoe-shine" motion (with the frame held in a vice, or by a buddy etc). I like 20 LPI, but it can irritate by the end of a practice session. You won't notice rusty barb-wire during a match, but if the gun bugs you in practice, it will distract you. The finer checkering tends to "load" with gunk pretty fast and cease to provide the friction you have paid so dearly for. "Mellow" the 20 LPI and your have the best of both worlds.

-MB

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I have guns with 20, 25 and 30 lpi checkering, and prefer 30 by a wide margin since - to me at least - it's quite a bit more comfortable. Having said that, 20 can be quite acceptable as long it's had its fangs blunted. The best advice I could give would be to find another shooter who has a gun with softened 20 lpi checkering and shoot it before you make your decision.

Having said all that, while nothing adds that extra bit of class to a custom 1911 like perfectly executed checkering, the God's honest truth is that ladder tape on the frontstrap (I break the roughness a bit with a file on mine) works just about as well, and a roll of same that will last you the rest of your life costs about six bucks at your local Home Depot. :)

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I shot a Springfield Armory Professional model for the first two years in this sport. The 20 lpi never gave me any trouble, and my hands aren't that tough. My advice is to buy what you like, play with it often, put up with sore hands for a few weeks and then enjoy the gun you love for the rest of its life. :)

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I have shot stipling and its OK, but not great

I've shot lots of 30 lpi and its better than stipling,

I love 25 lpi and think its perfect. I don't notice any abrasion and think I could hold the gun with mud, blood and sweat

I have not shot 20 lpi in over 10years and only a couple of times and do not remember it well enough to have an opinion.

I do know the 20 lpi on the Springer I'm looking at could grate coconut shells and will probably need some softening, but I am willing to see if my hands toughen up.

Thanks All this is the info I needed.

Does the checkering on a 1911 rub you from the front strap or the MSH?

God Bless

Edited by 45Fundi
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Stippling can be heavy or lite, depending on the use and what the owner wants. It is more functional and less time consuming than checkering. It does not tear up clothing and does not require a shooter to callous their hands. It will provide a very functional surface. Checkering is more of a pride and skill application. Essentially, you are proud of your toy, and want to have something detailed and different. The skill is that of the gunsmith, being straight and sharp. Checkering is not right unless it is sharp with perfect diamonds. But again, typically too much for constant use. You can knock down the points with some light sanding, stipple over the current checkering, or learn to live with raw skin.

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Back in the days when I still shot a single stack, I had my Clark Custom Norinco machine checkered here @ the shop 20 LPI. I tried to shoot it as is but it was eating my hand alive. I brought it back in the shop and had them lightly buff the tops with some emery cloth and that made it perfect. It can always be "punched" back up to major pointy with a file but I like it fine the way it is.

For a carry gun, I would go 25 LPI but feel that 30 LPI is almost the same as having a completely smooth front strap. . . very slippery.

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You can knock down the points with some light sanding, stipple over the current checkering, or learn to live with raw skin.

It's more work than sanding, but I find the treatment that gives me the best combination of esthetics and "soft" checkering surfaces is to bead blast the living hell out of the checkering after cutting but before the finish is applied.

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Thanks All!

Duane I like the sandblasting idea. Reneet I'm glad to know that the softened points are workable. I will use it for awhile sharp and see if I can cowboy up and get the callouses or I will either have my gunsmith sand paper or sand blast them when he does the grip & thumb safety work. I can't say enough how much I appreciate all the responses.

God Bless

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