Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

My 650 Has A Stiff Stroke


Recommended Posts

My XL650 developed some resistance in the stroke of the main shaft today and I can't get it back to normal.

I started hearing some squeaking and I figured the thing was dry after thousands of rounds without lubrication, so I broke out the motorcycle gear oil and oiled up the main shaft. Soon thereafter, the stroke got stiffer and required way, way too much effort. (This same thing happened when I tried Slide Glide a few months ago.) I figured the gear oil was too thick (80W; though I seem to remember using it without trouble) so I sprayed with brake cleaner, wiped it down good, blasted it with compressed air, and applied the recommended 30W motor oil.

It got a little better, but it is still far from right. It should fall under its own weight but it won't due to the resistance.

How can I get the link arm pins out? And that pin at the bottom of the main shaft?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

HI Erik,

I think this may be similar to what my 550 did a year and a half ago. It was getting stiff, and stiffer. Oiling the ram shaft didn't help, lubing the lower linkage pins didn't help either. The problem area turned out to be the pins in the linkage right up under the the top of the ram being seized up with rust/corrosion. I used a penetrating oil (Kroil, Liquid Wrench, etc.) with a needle injector to get it into all of these areas. After a couple hours, and some workin, everything was slick again. I took the hint and disassembled the entire ram and all of the linkages. I then cleaned and packed all the linkage pins with Slide Glide and it has been slicker than when it was new ever since. The Slide Glide looks like it's gonna stay in there for the long haul and keep this area from ever seizing up again. I keep the ram shaft coated with SG and just wipe off the dirty buildup right before I apply a new dab every once in a great while.

Regards,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

George wins the kewpie doll. Something is galling and it's not your main shaft. I use grease on mine w/no probs. You *may* need to disassemble the linkage and polish out the galling and relube that way. I think you may be beyond the point where those little lube holes will fix it. I had a similar issue with the actuating rod on the primer system. Once it starts to gall, things get nasty in a hurry.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You guys were right on. After much effort, I got it apart and the lower pin is galled on both sides. (The main shaft moves freely, disconnected from the linkage.) I tried a little wire brush action and it didn't help. I'll call Dillon and ask for a new one. Interesting, the top pin is mirror bright without galling.

You think S'Glide is better for this application than basic waterproof bearing grease?

Zerk fittings would be so nice...

P.S. This was in the manual, I just had to post to get the collective forum wisdom, which is often better than the Dillon docs.

P.P.S. In the downtime, I installed a shred-inspired .223 Rem primer chute. Hell yeah!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Been there, done that ---- twice! First on a SDB (Boy did AA#7 make a mess in there) and then on a 650. On the SDB I polished the galling out of the parts by hand using 1000, then 1500 grit sandpaper, followed by steel wool. For the 650 I fortunately had a bench grinder ------ before anyone starts cringing, I used a wire wheel.....

Packed it with Slide Glide and 20k happy rounds later it's still humming along....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting, the top pin is mirror bright without galling.

[Dr. Science Mode ON]

Erik,

I think there's a couple things that may accelerate the galling. I don't know for sure, but the frames may be clear anodized. I'm guessing they are otherwise there would be more oxidation on the machined surfaces than there is. Maybe not. Typically on moving parts involving aluminum, once you break through the anodizing is where things go downhill.

Galvanic corrosion is another suspect. Get a little moisture in one of those pivots and you now have a battery -- and it will start eating itself up in a hurry.

Whatever the causes, lack of lube is what starts it all. Any heavy grease should work dandy. I use bicycle bearing grease on mine (because I have a full tube left of it to burn up and no other reason.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My XL650 developed some resistance in the stroke of the main shaft today and I can't get it back to normal.

An abnormal main shaft is a big problem; it usually gets worse with age, but can be helped with proper therapy.

Your welcome,

:rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
You think S'Glide is better for this application than basic waterproof bearing grease?

Hi Erik,

I just noticed the query about why SG here. SG is probably not a lot different in it's lubricating qualities for this task, but I used it because I thought it's stiction would help control the amount of swarf that accumulates and spreads as lube gets scraped off the ram shaft. I found that it worked significantly better in that it didn't slowly creep away from where it builds up like all the other greases & high viscosity motor oils I had tried over the years. It's mainly a cleanliness thing, but I also feel in my heart that the SG I put on all of the linkage parts when I did the teardown is gonna stay where I put it better & longer than the oils I used to attempt to dribble into the linkage pin crevices previously in hopes of lubricating these areas sucessfully.

Regards,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...