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removing comp on AR15


redwoods

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I removed my handguard so I can put a new one on. I popped out the pins on my front sight that was fixed and now I have to keep the barrel from turning to take off the comp. I could buy a clamp from brownells, but I would rather not.

Can I put the pins in my front sight and attach it to the barrel again and then clamp onto that to keep the barrel from turning while taking off the comp? Or would that damage the barrel?

Gun has a heavy barrel with fixed A2 style front sight. There are half-holes/notches in barrel for front sight pins.

Thanks,

Randy

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You can also go the fast impact rouite. Put a long wrench on the flash hider/comp, and give it a sharp/fast blow with a heavy dowel/hammer/whatever......always worked for mine, before I got the right tools to do it. Sometimes it works best with the rifle assembled laying on the floor , puting some weight on it with your foot.....like playing twister with a rifle I guess. Gotta make sure the wrench doesn't slip off when you hit it.

You can also use channel locks or a vice, with a piece of leather (old belt?)/fire hose/garden hose/whatever to protect from scratches fromt he channel locks or vice jaws.

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take two 2X4 and clamp them together, then drill hole at the seam that about same size as barrel. Then take some bicycle inner tube and slip it over the barrel then clamp the whole thing in a sturdy bench vise. It will hold a lot torgue.

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I tried the 2x4 thing before this post, but used electrical tape instead of rubber. I think I may try the rubber bicycle tube before I put the front site back on. I also may just buy the vice clamp from brownells.

Thanks,

Randy

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I was thinking the same thing. I have a Bushy M4 that doesn't "look" like it is pinned, but the serial-number tracks back to a "during the ban" build. So I called them, and they said "yeah, you can't see the pins, but they're there. On that series we drilled the holes, we pinned the comp, then we filled (?) the holes by welding 'em, and smoothed 'em over, before sending the rifles out to finishing. The only way to get that comp off the barrel is to cut it off."

:unsure:

B

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I got the comp off. It was not pinned. I had a gunsmith thread the barrel and put the comp on for me. He is 2 hours away, so I try to do my own if I can. I used the wooden2x4 blocks with inner tube to keep it from spinning.

Now I need to get off the collar ring. I have a tool but the blocks did not work this time. I may have to put the receiver in the vise this time. I understand it is a right hand thread. That means I turn to the left/counterclockwise, right?

Randy

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By Collar ring do you mean barrel nut? Some people locktite them so heat may be required. So people don't do anything and corrosion becomes a real problem. Use the 2X4 thing but put the block of wood right up against the barrel wrench to hold the pins in. If it won't break I us the hot and cold cycle. Soak the barrel from inside the receiver with Kroil etc. Then heat gun it up then into freezer till morning. Then into the blocks. Usually comes out without any trouble.

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I got the comp off using two blocks of wood. I clamped them together, cut a hole the size of the barrel, then wraped the barrel with leather or electrical tape and put it all in a vise. I heated the comp and it came off.

Thanks for the help.

I then bought the barrel vise with rubber on the inside, have not used it yet. I also bought a black upper receiver clamp vise and used it along with some kano kroil on the threads to take off the barrel collar. I can now start to figure out how to put on my jp free float hand guard.

Randy

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  • 1 month later...
Hopefully the gun didn't come out of California in which case it may be pinned.

Actually the pinned flash hider was a FEDERAL requirement due to the 94 ban. In Cali, threaded barrels are completely legal. Maybe you meant, "Hopefully the rifle wasn't from Texas and built during the FEDERAL Assault Weapons Ban."

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