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Ready to Kill This Stupid G35


bountyhunter

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I am so fed up with this G35. I have the EFK 9mm conversion barrel so I can afford to shoot it.... and I have the trigger tweaked nicely, but have always had misfires on and off. So, I buy about five cases of 9mm Miwall reload ammo and it shoots fine in my SIG, Beretta, Hi Power, CZ, and the rest. But, the stupid Glock misfires a bunch.

I had a RP striker spring, so I figured a few misfires might be normal. I bought a lightning strike reduced mass striker, and thought that would help:

Tonight, I had six misfires out of 16 rounds of Miwall ammo. The "dud" rounds had some pretty deep dents in the primer, I mean good smacks. I reloaded and whacked them again in the Glock, no fire. Put them in my Hi Power and all fired no problem. NEVER had a misfire in any other gun with that ammo, just the Glock.

I just checked the headspace on the EFK 9mm barrel, and it looks like there is about .012" gap between the primer face and the top of the "locating block" that meets the breech face. Is that gap enough to cause misfires by allowing the round to move and absorb energy? Is this a defective barrel? It fits the slide perfectly and cycles well.

Would it help to shave the end of the striker body to allow the tip to protrude a bit farther coming forward?

I have a stronger mainspring in than the 4LB (RP) spring, the one I'm using is about halfway between the 4LB and stock weights. I suppose if I crank the spring up enough, the rounds might fire, but the trigger pull weight goes way up when I do that.

I'm about ready to shoot this gun, and I mean shoot it using a different gun....

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May not be related at all, but if you have an overtravel screw, it can cause light strikes if adjusted too far forward. This caused me a lot of grief on a G34. I ended up taking it completely out.

Rik

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Would it help to shave the end of the striker body to allow the tip to protrude a bit farther coming forward?

No that would not help - basically the design of the striker prevents it from protruding any further that it does.

You said that there are deep dents in the primer, so it should have fired. It might just be the primer. You might just have to shoot something else through that Glock and give up on the Miwall. Try a different ammo and see if you still get misfires. If you don't, it's the ammo. If you do, it might be the barrel.

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Frankenglocks never seem to work. Swap those major components and springs for aftermarket stuff and your other guns aren't running either. This is especially true when all this swapping involves a caliber change. Shoot your 9's and put your G35 back together.

Jim M

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Reinstall your stock striker and striker spring first... this is the cheapest/easiest/fastest thing to try. In my opinion it is also the most likely culprit. While you are at it, make sure your striker channel is clean and dry.

If this doesn't restore reliability, look at the location of the firing pin indentation on your primers. If it is not in the center third of the primer, your barrel may not be centering the round... and the strike may not be crushing the priming compound against the primer anvil.

If these things are OK and your reliability still sucks, you probably want to look at your headspace again and compare it with your stock barrel. 12 mils on that EFK sounds a little excessive, but I don't know the headspace specification. Maybe a glock armorer or someone knowledgable can chime in on this.

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I see more Glock jams and misfires at the matches than anything else, IMO it is a result of trying to make the gun something it is not. They are as reliable as anything out there until you start messing with them, start trying to get a 2# trigger and it goes downhill from there. A Glock can run with a light trigger but the balance needed to do it is incredibly touchy. I'd recommend that you put it back stock and shoot it or send it to a pro that can balance it and get it working.

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I had (hopefully) the same problem with a G17 caspian slide. The ultimate solution was to use a stock striker spring on a lightened steel striker. That spring adds a bit to the trigger pull but can be offset a bit by using a extra power trigger return spring.

Some of the things to check as I am sure that you know are: Is the striker moving freely in the channel? Is the safety disengaging correctly? Is the gun going into battery correctly?

When I was having my problems I noticed that the spring cups and channel liner was all scratched up so I replaced them with new. I took out the dremel on the stock spring cups and made small cuts, 2 per cup, that were parallel with the striker channel. My thoughts is this reduced friction, therefore increased striker speed. Along those same lines I am expieriementing with some graphite powder in the striker channel trying to further reduce friction.

What happens when you use a stock barrel? Does it go bang?

Please let us know what you find to be the problem. Hope this helps.

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Even though it means that you can't do it at home, when working on a Glock (read: making modifications) the ideal place is at a range.

If you wanted to try out a reduced power striker spring, Ghost Rocket connector, Wolff trigger spring, after market barrel, trigger stop screw, tungsten guiderod...etc, the mods should be done one at a time with plenty of shooting inbetween. This way, if you make a mod that creates malfuctions, you know which mod it was.

IMHO making changes with the striker spring assembly are usually the cause of drama.

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You need to get rid of that Glock and get a chrome plated sissy pistol. Put all the Glock stuff in a box and I'll give you $200 for it before Merlin does. ;)

How does it run when you put the stock G35 together?

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Do what The Duck says! That has been the cause of missfires on my open G17.

Since I don't know what has been done to your trigger, I'm not sure if this applies. I put Trigger Kits in my match pistols. They're great, but he gets a little over-enthusiastic rounding and polishing the head of the firing pin safety plunger. The plunger, then, may not be depressed enough to entirely get out of the way of the firing pin. When I was getting missfires, first I tried a heavier recoil spring (I was using a shortened 13 lb. ISMI). This actually helped, but not 100%, because the light spring wasn't reliably returning to complete battery with the KKM barrel. When I removed the firing pin safety plunger entirely the gun worked 100%. This is not recommended, though, as a normal procedure. Removing safety devices is frowned upon in some circles. So, next I reinstalled the stock OEM safety plunger, after a good polish job, and voila, the gun worked 100%! The Trigger Kit plunger just has too much material removed from it to be totally reliable as a drop-in part in a variety of mass produced guns.

Sometimes these things are frustrating to track down. The Glock is a system of interworking parts and balancing spring tensions. Change one component and it may mess up the entire system. But this is true with most any gun, not just Glocks. Goes back to making sure that whoever works on your guns he knows what he's doing. :)

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May not be related at all, but if you have an overtravel screw, it can cause light strikes if adjusted too far forward. This caused me a lot of grief on a G34. I ended up taking it completely out.

Rik

No screw, and BTW I removed the firing pin safety plunger just to make sure it wasn't dragging on the FP to cause light strikes. No help.
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Frankenglocks never seem to work. Swap those major components and springs for aftermarket stuff and your other guns aren't running either. This is especially true when all this swapping involves a caliber change. Shoot your 9's and put your G35 back together.

Jim M

That wouldn't be any fun...... with the price of .40 ammo, it would just become a safe queen.
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I see more Glock jams and misfires at the matches than anything else, IMO it is a result of trying to make the gun something it is not. They are as reliable as anything out there until you start messing with them, start trying to get a 2# trigger and it goes downhill from there. A Glock can run with a light trigger but the balance needed to do it is incredibly touchy. I'd recommend that you put it back stock and shoot it or send it to a pro that can balance it and get it working.
Yeah, I am starting to see just how finnicky they are. problem is, with the heavy stock trigger I shoot so lousy I don't want to shoot the gun. It is way easier to shoot with the 3# trigger. Not the gun's fault, just an observation. Edited by bountyhunter
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No that would not help - basically the design of the striker prevents it from protruding any further that it does.

You said that there are deep dents in the primer, so it should have fired.

They look like good dents, but I am stuck with the fact that the ammo fires 100% in five other 9's, all of which have RP mainsprings to lighten trigger pull. I was thinking the short protrusion distance of the striker nose might just not be pushing in far enough given the .012" setback. Whne those rounds go into any other gun the fire first pop.

ALSO: when I do the "BIC pen launch" test that sucker flies staright up to the ceiling with great velocity, so I think there is enough strike energy... just not 100% sure the striker is going in deep enough given the setback. Anyway, it's just a theory.

You might just have to shoot something else through that Glock and give up on the Miwall. Try a different ammo and see if you still get misfires. If you don't, it's the ammo.

Yeah, but given the fact I have about five cases of Miwall, I am pretty interested in getting it to shoot in the gun. It really is the only "decently priced" ammo left and they have a west coast warehouse so the shipping $$$ isn't too severe. The cheapest new 9mm ammo I can find online now is about $220/case and I heard it just went up again (I haven't looked in a couple of months). I'm not going to be doing much shooting when the ammo is $.25 per trigger pull for cheap 9mm ammo.

Edited by bountyhunter
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BTW, did you say if your gun works well with .40? If it works fine with that, it's almost certainly the 9mm barrel.
It did shoot .40 no problem, but it was all stock when I did it. I haven't tried shooting .40 with the new trigger, springs, and striker. I should because that would tell me the problem is the 9mm barrel headspace (or crappy primers) if the .40 shoots no problem..... and I have some Miwall .40 ammo which would probably have the same crappy primers in them. :roflol:

Thanks, good idea.

Edited by bountyhunter
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