deprime all brass separately

[grandbagger]

is it ok to deprime all the brass separately?

or is this just a waste of time?

will this affect brass integrity as i will do sizing again when i load normally?

[Viggen]

With rifle cartridges a separate resize/deprime is/can be done.

With 223 I do that as a separate operation, then do the case prep and clean, then it goes to the progressive to be loaded.

If you are talking pistol then I don't see a reason to deprime separately, unless you feel it's something you need to do.

For me it would be a time and hassle issue.

[grandbagger]

yeah forgot its pistol brass...

[North]

I did forever with my Lee Turret press. If I didn't the spent primers would get in the way of the actual reloading. I shot the same brass for several years and only had a few split cases so I do think it weakened my brass at all.

Now that I have a Dillon I don't see the need.

[warpspeed]

For pistol brass, a complete waste of time.

The primer pockets do not get cleaned by tumbling.

[ChrisStock]

I have found that de-priming then tumbling is actually a horrendous PITA. I have found that tumbling media just loves to find a nice tight nook and cranny to get lodged in. I just let station 1 on the 550 take care of it all.

[dajarrel]

In pistol rounds, I'm like the posters before me. I don't see any advantage in it. The glaring disadvantage is that of the tumbling media stuck in a primer pocket.

FWIW

dj

[NMBOpen]

Maybe it's just my OCD, but I tumble, then deprime. Follow that with a light pass with a deburring tool that does a better job of detecting case mouth cracks than my old eyes. At that point intial QC is done and they are batched for loading.

[Joe4d]

Only time I have done it with pistol brass was when I had a hole mess of miltary 9mm with crimped primers. For that I used a universal deprimer on a Lee single stage. Then sat and reamed all the primer pockets with a Lyman tool, after about 500 of those I decided 9mm brass just wasnt quite that important so I gave the rest of the crimped primer stuff away. These days though I would probably keep it or at least sell it.

[Shoot-4-Ever]

For years I did pistol all at the same time and it worked good. 20 years later, I dig out my old Lyman and it seems that the primer pockets have crud in them that made it difficult to seat a new primer. So I tried tumbling about 1/2 hr to get the major coat of crud off the brass, then decap and retumble for an hour or two. I had the media in the cracks problem too...PITA. So I then tried decapping after tumbling and using a primer pocket tool giving each case a twist to two, then rapping it on the counter to knock the crud from the pocket. This made my priming a whole bunch easier.

Then I bought a Dillon......and just as mentioned above, I let station one take care of it. Don't know why I had problems seating primers once upon a time, but I found I was forcing in alot of primers that otherwise would be too high.

However!!! I just posted another primer problem I had with my Dillon....it was a mystery to me. Then I found the problem, made an adjustment to my depriming die and hope that with a few good tips from other forum posters, I will not have any more problems.....Life is Good w/Dillon, but there have been a few days that I was not so sure. But now I think I have the bugs out, and I would never look back...Dillon (550) all the way for me!!! Have never loaded a necked round, but hope to give it a try soon.

[LPatterson]

Changing primer feed back and forth between large & small was a PITA and since getting the Revo I want to make sure the Federal primers are well seated. So it is clean everything then deprime, sort by Revo or pistol (determined by head stamp) then repime by hand.

Yes it is time consuming but when you are retired with no ball & chain what does it matter.

[UW Mitch]

I've got a SDB - but I want/need brass in 40S&W to be undersized by the EGW u-die (otherwise I'm getting nose dive problems). So I single stage the brass with my Lee press and the U-die, then load on the SDB - feels like a horrendous waste of time and at some point I'll get a 650, but right now, no space or extra cash.

Do what makes sense for you.

~Mitch

[astroskg]

i guess most of you would call me a time waster but with the speed of reloading on my SDB it gives me more time doing reloading and not sitting in front of the TV my process is as follows:

home from the range i de prime all my brass 9mm and 40s&w using a universal de primer die in my old single stage press sort by caliber and then into the tumbler with Walnut for and hour .

then into my pan for Case Lube and undersize EGW die in the old single stage . from there into the ultrasonic cleaner 20 minutes to get rid of any lube it also cleans out the primer pockets

and inside the brass . after they dry for the night next evening i place them back into the tumbler with corncob and polish for an hour after the prep all is ready for reloading.

carbide dies are expensive so i feel the first tumble in the walnut cleans off any dirt caked or cooked on the outside of the brass off so there is not as big a chance to get a die scratched

Yes i know the under size die has a de primer pin in it, well i like the feel of resizing smooth not the jerk or pop that occasionally happens when de priming just a smooth feel of the resizing.

all this extra stuff does take more time , did i get out of the house "yes" did i get a product i am proud of "yes" does my Dillon press stay cleaner "yes" i could go on with yes's and no's for ever

the bullets still only hit the target where i aimed clean or dirty it is my personal preference to have clean shiny brass when i go to the range to shoot and my press likes clean shiny brass as it cycles

through its stations 12k plus thru this little press in the last year not one problem and when i change out the tool head to another caliber the dies clean out spotless with a Qtip

[Rob Tompkins]

You can size/de-prime, then tumble, then load.

If you like to use lube for sizing but don't want it on the finished product you can do it as an extra step. If you do, use a universal de-caper in stage one to punch out any media blocking the flash hole.

I've not done it because: 1) a little lube on the finished product does not bother me, and 2) it takes more time. But if you have a case feeder and take all the dies out of the progressive press (easy to do on my L-N-L) I suspect you could do go as fast as you can pull the handle. Say 1 sec per stroke, maybe 15 -20 min to do 1000, or 3000+ / hr? Though you will still want to tumble them some before you do the sizing to keep real dirt out of the die and then again after so some preplanning is required.

Humm... I might do a small test run of 100-200 rounds to see if taking the sizing function out of the progressive process will improve COL consistency.

Edited February 3, 2011 by Rob Tompkins

[M-Bear]

With pistol brass it is just a waste of time.

[Graham Smith]

I do it with rifle brass as a matter of course because of the extra stuff that has to be done. For pistol, I do resize/deprime as a separate step with .40 because I use an undersized die and I don't like that extra force as a part of the loading process.