Abomination Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 Hello all, I've read some great post on this website and there are a lot of knowledgeable people here so maybe you can help me with a question I have. I have modified my glock 19 trigger to my liking for the most part. I have a lightning strike trigger, titanium safety plunger and titanium striker. I also installed a ghost 3.5 rocket connector. I polished all the parts to a mirror finish on the surfaces that touch each other. It now has a very comfortable pull that is very smooth with no over travel what so ever. The only complaint I have is in the way the trigger finally breaks. That is to say after all the slack/trigger slop (not much with this setup) is taken out of the trigger, the actual pull to discharge the firearm takes a bit of movement to actually fire. Its not much movement but its enough to annoy me. I was wondering if there is any way to modify the trigger to make that break come sooner or more crisp than it is now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 I might try Wolf's extra power trigger spring if you haven't already. Should tighten things up nicely. Jim M PS...Welcome aboard! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 Its not much movement but its enough to annoy me. I was wondering if there is any way to modify the trigger to make that break come sooner or more crisp than it is now? Yes, but the Glock trigger bar also lifts the FP safety plunger so it can fire. You can shave a bit off the top of the sear to get it to release the striker sooner. But, if the trigger bar is modified to fire the striker after a shorter pull, it may not pull far enough and you can get light strikes. Getting it just right is tricky. The people who do the Glock triggers like Vanek are good at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 I might not be reading this right, but it sounds like you have a connector with the over-travel tab? And, it is tuned to zero over-travel? And, the trigger gets to the point of almost letting off but you need to pull it a bit 'harder' at that point? You may be pulling against the stop right at the moment you are wanting the trigger to break. If so, take a bit more off the tab and let a little more over-travel in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abomination Posted February 18, 2008 Author Share Posted February 18, 2008 (edited) JimmyM- Ill give that a shot, I'm placing an order with them soon anyways. flexmoney- Yes, I have the ghost connector with the over-travel tab with no over travel tuned into it. I don't think that's the issue but its an easy enough check, Ill switch it tonight with another connector I have and see what the difference is. bountyhunter- when you say shave a bit off the top of the sear, what do you mean? I know what the sear is just not sure what part your talking about. Edited February 18, 2008 by Abomination Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmart Posted February 19, 2008 Share Posted February 19, 2008 Are you saying that there's a longer pull through with the 3.5 compared to the stock connector? If so, that's the nature of the beast. The ramp angle is shallower, but there's more distance fore-to-aft for the trigger bar nose to move through before the FP releases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abomination Posted February 19, 2008 Author Share Posted February 19, 2008 jmart- its hard for me to explain clearly because I lack the proper "trigger" vocabulary I guess lol. If by pull through you mean the distance you have to pull the trigger after all the slack is out of it, then yes. I see what your talking about, it never occurred to me that the increase in angle also increases distance but its pretty clear that it does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-shot Posted February 19, 2008 Share Posted February 19, 2008 I think Flex is right. Have you changed the connector to check yet? I had a ghost that was tuned perfectly for one pistol, put it in another, and the break was insanely harder because it is just too close. I would have had to remove more material from the tab to get it to feel right with the second pistol, but I accepted the perfect feel that I had with the first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted February 19, 2008 Share Posted February 19, 2008 bountyhunter- when you say shave a bit off the top of the sear, what do you mean? I know what the sear is just not sure what part your talking about. The "tang" on the top of the trigger bar that sticks up and cathces the foot of the striker is what I call the sear. As the trigger bar is pulled rearward, the tang goes both back and down, eventually dropping low enough that the striker foot slips by and fires the gun. If you shave the top of that sear tang a bit, it will slip by and fire farther forward in the trigger bar stroke. Not saying you should do that, just saying it will make the gun fire with a shorter pull stroke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abomination Posted February 19, 2008 Author Share Posted February 19, 2008 (edited) ok just to make sure we are on the same page, when you say trim the sear which one of these do you mean (sorry for the crappy paint image) http://premium1.uploadit.org/dsapper/tang.bmp Edited February 19, 2008 by Abomination Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted February 19, 2008 Share Posted February 19, 2008 Don't trim your sear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abomination Posted February 19, 2008 Author Share Posted February 19, 2008 Don't trim your sear. Why? I have 3 extras to play with to see if it does anything positive/negative. I also know the risk of doubles etc if its screwed up and have a safe place to discharge it at. Its not a self defense or carry gun.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted February 19, 2008 Share Posted February 19, 2008 Don't trim your sear. Why? I have 3 extras to play with to see if it does anything positive/negative. I also know the risk of doubles etc if its screwed up and have a safe place to discharge it at. Its not a self defense or carry gun.... The best, most experinced in the business don't for a reason. That should be good enough. Jim M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jobob Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 The Glock trigger can be vastly improved over the stock version. But you shouldn't try to make a 1911 trigger out of it. You could be walking in dangerous territory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpolans Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 Don't trim your sear. Why? I have 3 extras to play with to see if it does anything positive/negative. I also know the risk of doubles etc if its screwed up and have a safe place to discharge it at. Its not a self defense or carry gun.... Rather than giving the standard "because the cool kids don't do it," I'd guess you shouldn't because it can result in very little engagement surface, which can cause doubling or full auto if the foot of the striker slips off the sear when the slide travels forward after firing a shot. In addition, if you shorten it, the striker will be released before it is fully retracted to the rear, resulting in light strikes. And because the pros are managing to get seriously light triggers without touching it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epault Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 You might try a 8lb connector, 6lb trigger spring, a reduced power striker spring, and lots of polishing. This probably wont be as light as a 3.5lb connector, but will brake more crisply. Cheap to try, and you might like crisp over light. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sslav Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 (edited) Don't trim your sear. Why? I have 3 extras to play with to see if it does anything positive/negative. I also know the risk of doubles etc if its screwed up and have a safe place to discharge it at. Its not a self defense or carry gun.... Rather than giving the standard "because the cool kids don't do it," I'd guess you shouldn't because it can result in very little engagement surface, which can cause doubling or full auto if the foot of the striker slips off the sear when the slide travels forward after firing a shot. In addition, if you shorten it, the striker will be released before it is fully retracted to the rear, resulting in light strikes. And because the pros are managing to get seriously light triggers without touching it. Well I am not a pro, but I have stayed at a holliday in express. The question I have is how do you know that pros are not doing it? You do not have to take off a lot of metal to change the feel of the trigger. I doubt you could visually tell the difference between my trigger bar and a stock one. But I have trimmed the sear. I have also trimmed the leg on the striker that engages the sear. I have trimmed the back end (rounded end) of the trigger bar. I have a few thousand rounds through the gun since the last modiffication - no doubling, no light strikes. Maybe there are other ways to do get to a nice trigger, but I am very happy with mine. Slav Edited February 25, 2008 by sslav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 The pros used to do it....when the Glock first came out...and they treated it like a 1911. They stopped doing it because the guns went full auto...enventually. I could get away with doing it. And, some others could. You'd need to know the workings of your whole gun pretty well. And, there is a lot of slop that I would take out of the gun to do it. I just haven't seen the need. I think it might be a little reckless to suggest it relative newbies (sorry if that offends). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugs Bunny Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 "The question I have is how do you know that pros are not doing it?" Flex is right, just not worth it in the long run! Just ask Charlie, he's not bashful about cluing us lesser talented types in.........seriously! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 Don't trim your sear. Why? I have 3 extras to play with to see if it does anything positive/negative. I also know the risk of doubles etc if its screwed up and have a safe place to discharge it at. Its not a self defense or carry gun.... Rather than giving the standard "because the cool kids don't do it," I'd guess you shouldn't because it can result in very little engagement surface, which can cause doubling or full auto if the foot of the striker slips off the sear when the slide travels forward after firing a shot. In addition, if you shorten it, the striker will be released before it is fully retracted to the rear, resulting in light strikes. And because the pros are managing to get seriously light triggers without touching it. I wouldn't recommend cutting on the sear either. The danger with getting aggressive with a Glock trigger and sear is that the slide has the striker and the frame has the "sear".... and there is a bunch of play between those two pieces. The other REAL danger is the Glock firing pin blocking safety doesn't reset when the slide cycles... if the trigger is still back, when it comes back into battery the FP safety is DISABLED and the gun will fire if the striker gets by the sear. Not a design to get rowdy with.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 (edited) Don't trim your sear. Why? I have 3 extras to play with to see if it does anything positive/negative. I also know the risk of doubles etc if its screwed up and have a safe place to discharge it at. Its not a self defense or carry gun.... Rather than giving the standard "because the cool kids don't do it," I'd guess you shouldn't because it can result in very little engagement surface, which can cause doubling or full auto if the foot of the striker slips off the sear when the slide travels forward after firing a shot. In addition, if you shorten it, the striker will be released before it is fully retracted to the rear, resulting in light strikes. And because the pros are managing to get seriously light triggers without touching it. Well I am not a pro, but I have stayed at a holliday in express. The question I have is how do you know that pros are not doing it? Slav Well, I started a thread a while back just to poll the forum and get the pros and cons of doing exactly that (putting a secondary cut on the sear face). None other than Mr Charlie Vanek pointed out that it was unsafe. I consider him to be THE pro of Glock triggers. I started that thread because I was also wondering if people did it anyway..... the answers were more or less uniform to the negative. Edited February 26, 2008 by bountyhunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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