epault

Thank you for the advice. I'm stock striker spring, stock connector, and red return spring. I've checked for striker drag and yes I have it. Removed material from top of cruciform until no contact. I haven't tried to remove material from striker lug or bending the cruciform. I'll try that next. I shoot a bunch of mil ball and frange and those primers are tough. If you have any other ideas please PM me I don't wanna hijack the thread.

I have Both a 17 g5 and 34 g5 set up with SF X300U and GS heavy tungsten rod 15lb spring. The 34 weighs 2oz more and all of that is slide weight. When I shoot them back to back I can feel the 34's slide moving slower and at speed I was sending a shot low with the 34. I think it's all the slide mass coming back into battery. I'm gonna shoot the 17 for a while. Now only if I could get a timney trigger to light primes consistently. Has anyone seen another fully cocked trigger system for the Glock?

I've been using Forward Control Design for all my mounts. I switched from CHPWS. the FCD mounts are steel and I saw higher scores on 25Y bulls with the FCD since I can put more torque on them. I'm 20 in/lb mount to slide and 25 in/lb DPP to mount. The RMR will be less since they use different screws. The FCD is also a one piece design unlike the Gen4 CHPWS. The Gen3 CHPWS was better then the Gen4. https://www.forwardcontrolsdesign.com/OPF-G-RMR_p_224.html

Will this stop the striker drag/light strike issues?

I have the Safariland above and I don't need a light to lock it in. I run 320 full and x5 in it, as well and 320 full with a hodge comp once I cut the bottom. https://safariland.com/products/model-7376rds-e2-80-93-7ts-als-hi-ride-belt-loop-holster-model_7376rds I bought this on and hung it off a BOSS hanger with Safariland attachment.

I've had 6 X5 variants. First let me say that I've only reached A class in prod and limited with Glocks years ago. I have been an avid bullseye shooter for several years and use a B8 target shot off hand from 25y for marksmanship training with my USPSA guns. For reference I'm a mid/high 90's shooter with a Glock 17. I owned one of the first X5's with the stainless barrels years ago. It was extremely accurate with everything I shot through it. Sold it when the upgrade BS started. I later bought a X5 Legion and when they first came out and the accuracy was so bad that I sold it and went back to Glock. They definitely changed something and it wasn't good. I did notice that when hand cycled it went into battery easier than the original X5. About a year ago I decide to get back into USPSA (I'd been competing in other disciplines). Remembering my experience with the Legion I found two used X5 OG's on gun broker and set them up as CO guns. One is the stainless barrel and the other is a black barrel. Both go into battery with pretension (the stainless is tighter), and need to be helped along when hand cycled with the 12lb spring. Both are extremely accurate and I've shot several 99 and 100 scores on the B8 with iron sights and optics (SRO/DPP). A few months ago in an effort to move my optic away from my ejection port I picked up two new X5 conversion kits. After speaking with friends at AMU they said their service pistol team had been testing current X5 Legions and had found them to be competitive in stock configuration with the AMU M9 Beretta at 50y. So I figured sure what the hell. So, now I have 4 examples of slide assemblies in my possession, 2 old and 2 new, and a fitted BarSto. I don't reload but have shot AA&A 147/124, Freedom 124/147, cheap 115, and a bunch of 124 NATO through all 4 slides. All seem to be about the same. Sometimes I think the OG's are a little more accurate (the difference of shooting a 97 instead of a 99). There's definitely a difference between the 5 barrels I have. The measurement from the front to the back of the barrel hood is longer on the OG stainless barrel and the BarSto. The OG black and the newer barrels are the same. As I've mixed and matched the slides and barrels I always find that the OG stainless and BarSto have pretension and all the black barrel have less (the OG black having the most). Oddly I didn't see much benefit with the BarSto, I'd say it's as accurate as the rest of the barrels. In closing, you can do some amazing things with a preloaded striker trigger.....

https://www.glockstore.com/Pure-Tungsten-Guide-Rod-for-Gen4-5-Glocks https://www.glockstore.com/Thug-Plug?quantity=1&custcol7=6&custcol8=16 Fill the rest of the grip with this: https://www.amazon.com/Pinewood-Derby-Weights-Tungsten-Fastest/dp/B004AG3C3W

I used tungsten buddy, kids darby car stuff (Pinewood), and shaped it to fill the entire grip recess. Brought the weight up from 2.4oz to 3.1oz and takes all the flex out of the grip. I don't think it'll be easy to get out...

Yep, fence posts, truck beds side rails, car hoods, rocks, t-posts, everything and anything.

https://www.armageddongear.com/Waxed-Canvas-Optimized-Game-Changer-_p_137.html Greatest flat surface area and large contact pads for the rifle. The rest of the stability is based on the way you set up a rifle. Flat under the balance point, barrel low in the stock/chassis, width of the flat, etc. I've been using this bag for the last 3 years (whenever it came out). I've been shooting PRS for a while and tried most of the popular bags out there and have a pile of them in my garage. If you have any questions about bags hit me up.

Few passes with a file and it should be fine.

My thug plug measured .1 inch too long and I'll have to trim it if I take it to a major match.

Thanks for the heads up. I'm ordering one to try it out.

Down. Cans create a lot of back pressure. I wish I could find a tooless adjustable gas block like the one on the SP10M. Those have to be outside the handguard. I do remember noveske having one years ago. Larue makes a nice one but I don't think they sell it separately, only on their rifles.

For a complete gun or upper I'd look at JP or Larue. Those are the two that have consistently delivered superb accuracy. If you're on a budget than build using a premium barrel. I've had great accuracy out of the Proof Research stainless steel barrels. I believe they're the most consistently accurate barrels until you get to the customs. If I remember correctly Compass Lake makes custom AR ready barrels out of Bartlein and Kreiger blanks. Here it is: https://compasslake.com/product-category-hide/barrels/match-rifle/ Other factors in the consistency of an AR is the design of the upper. If building I'd look at Seekins or the Larue UU kit. Both have more meat on the interface between the upper and the barrel that will help as you start to warm things up. I think the Seekins has more material and you can't beat their warranty. They also have hand guards that bear weight on the receiver instead of the barrel nut. https://www.seekinsprecision.com/product/ar-uppers/seekins-precision-irmt-3-upper.html https://www.larue.com/products/larue-ultimate-ar-15-upper-kit/ Other topics you may want to look into are, pressure fit barrels (it sounds involved but really isn't that hard. you just need a cheap torch from a hardware store), and upper receiver lapping. I haven't lapped an upper yet but people with credibility seem to think its a good idea, and when you see the amount of material that's removed to square an upper it'll make you cringe. I have a 20" Proof barrel with some rounds on it I'd part with cheap. Feel free to PM me if you're interested.

I'm using a blade-tech cheap'o holster and haven't seen any wear.

The ALS for the full sized P320 will work for the X Five. https://www.safariland.com/products/holsters-and-gear/holsters/duty-holsters/retention/model-7390-7ts-als-mid-ride-duty-holster-34843.html Any of these for a full size should work. Get a model for an attached light like a x300 and that'll insure room for the slightly longer barrel. The tac light models work with or without light attached. The only down side is these holsters don't work with a red dot attached.

Tis is for a G17 G4 frame and a G17 G5 slide. G4: Frame Locking block Guide rod Barrel trigger assembly Frame small parts G5 Slide Slide small parts

So if I use a gen4 barrel in the gen5 slide it won't work? The gen4 barrel should work with the gen4 locking block.

Will a gen5 slide, small parts, gen4 barrel, gen4 spring, and guide rod work on a gen4 frame, trigger assembly, and locking block?

All my triggers do this. When I release to reset then take my finger off the trigger the trigger safety is stuck on the frame. Take a file or razor to the back of the trigger safety. You only need to take off a little and it won't hang up. This will leave your trigger safety full functional, just a little shorter on the back. While you're at it take off a bit of the front of the trigger safety until it's flush with the front of the trigger and remove the bump, I think it makes the trigger feel much easier to control at speed, and it may stop those occasional shots that wonder to the left.

Did you ever try the Larue trigger in the MPX? How'd it go?

Can you post some pictures of the upgraded X5 trigger. I'm considering sending mine back.

Nordic barrel + HyperFire trigger = failure to strip round from mag. Rumor has it that Nordic cuts a smaller gas port in the barrel then most. Mix that with having to overcome the extra spring tension on the hammer in a HF trigger and you don't get enough BC travel to cycle. I have the Voodoo BC and it works, except with Nordic + HyperFire. Good Luck.

I'm a mid 90's on a NRA B-8 tgt. I'd like to see more 99-100 scores. I changed my striker and the faster lock time helped. I'll probably end up with a Bar-Sto barrel sooner or later. That will help me chase down those last few points. A wise man once told me "The foundation of all combat/practical shooting is the ability to place one well aimed shot on command."