Rebound Slide Spring Question

[MI_Packer]

While installing a JM spring kit in my 625-8 I ran into a little problem. While disassembling it rebound slide the factory spring launched. When I found it I also found a small piece of metal rod. One end of the rod is rounded over and the other end is cut square and appears to be a high grade stainless steel.

Thinking along the lines that this rod came out of the gun I reassembled the gun with this rod inside the rebound slide spring. More or less like an uncaptured recoil rod in an auto. Occasionally the action would hang up so I removed the rod.

The schematics on Brownells do not indicate such a piece exist, but the latest drawing is for a 625-5.

So was the rod coincidentally in the same location? Mind you this was in my workshop so the rod could have come from just about any project I have worked on in the last 7 years.

[HSMITH]

LOL, I HATE IT WHEN THAT HAPPENS!!!!!! Come to think of it I don't have much of anything good go say about getting rebound slides in or out. Your gun is newer than any of mine but you should have something like that in there. The rounded end would go to the rear in the direction the spring compresses.

[Greg in VA]

Yes its suppost to be in their. I can remember when we would make our own and put inside the spring to create a hidden trigger stop for trigger over travel...........

Greg

[RePete]

That's what they are using for a trigger stop.

Use it or leave it out, no problems.

[Carmoney]

Yes, that's the trigger stop. They don't do very much, frankly, as they are never long enough to actually function as a trigger stop in the correct place for double-action shooting. As Greg pointed out, one of the ways to create a functional trigger stop is to fit a piece of drill rod to the correct length, so that it stops the trigger just after the hammer releases in DA mode (done correctly, it will render the single-action capability non-functional because the hammer won't be able to come far enough back to cock the gun). However, doing this is a time-consuming trial-and-error process.

Pskys2 and I were talking about this at Nationals back in September. He really likes a good trigger stop on his competition revos. For whatever reason, I don't seem to have trouble with a little over-travel, and as long as the trigger feels right, I don't worry about having a trigger stop anymore. Individual preference, I suppose.

MI Packer, if your trigger stop is catching, round off the squared end and polish the whole thing. Or as RePete says, you can simply leave it out.

[MI_Packer]

Thanks guys.

I put it back in with the rounded end to the back and went to the range. Even in five degrees it worked fine. No problems with Federal primers and one CCI failed to light up out of 100.

Using 5.8 grains of VV N340 and Rainer 230 grain RN it chrono'd at 174PF.

[whizz]

Don't you get lots of unburnt powder when using N340?

I remember I did when I tried it and those grains always ended up between my extractor and the face of the cylinder making it sometimes impossible to close during the reloads.

[MI_Packer]

On great, something else to worry about.

I have noticed a little unburnt powder but it has not been a problem for me. Since it's winter time we are only shooting three stages indoors usually round counts are 12 to 24. I'm one of those guys who cleans a gun after each use and perhaps that has helped me some.

What is your load data?

[Patrick1981]

I have the same problem on my "old" 686-5. I wanted to mount a spring from 11 Lb Wolff as the SSR, but in this Revo gives me problems. If I remove the metal rod everything worked clean, but I have not trigger stop.

Why reduced power spring interfering with the metal rod ?

Perhaps because it is longer than the original ? What can I do ?

thanks from Italy

[Bubber]

Patrick1981, Do you really need a trigger stop? Why it would affect a reduced power spring and not the stock I cannot tell you. The ones in mine get "lost" when I clean my gun. Well the one time that I do clean my gun it comes up "missing". One can learn to "stage" a trigger if needed for some shots very easily. It is not recommended by many in USPSA or IPSC crowd because fo the time involved in staging. I don't know if IDPA allows one to be removed as it has never been adressed that I have heard as I don't shoot much IDPA. Good Luck with the 686. Later rdd

[jjanglin]

If you polish your rebound slide inside and polish the rebound spring tag ends so they wont grab your finger nail when you drag the

spring over your nail.the stop rod will probably not be a bother. coil springs rotate upon compresssion and kink a little up on compression

if one or both ends grab inside of what ever they are in. Maybe the square end of the stop rod did this or the spring and stop rod both.

I used to have a military shop manual for the S&W revolvers polishing was just done to everything! and the old warrent officer I worked with during my life in the

military made a point of polishing springs and the channel or channels they rode in. Every little bit helps.

for those that like them dremals you can cut a cotton swab and rub polish compound into it with your fingers then put it in the dremel etc; insert it in

the rebound slide before you turn on your tool and it makes a pretty good polisher thingy.

I dont use a dremal`s dont like the things, but I do use a air powered pencil die grinder, it spins ~ 30+ thousand rpms .

Jim/Pa

Sailors

[Carmoney]

The squared end of the trigger stop rod should be rounded off and the whole thing polished before reinstalling it. The easy way to do it is to chuck each end of the rod in the drill in turn, knock the sharp edge off with an old file, and hit it with fine wet/dry paper.

Here I go sharing yet another trade secret!

[Patrick1981]

Probably take off as the use of all double action.

But it is a secondary weapon.

I still have not understood a thing because I do not understand the terms.

To get it right, looks the rounded finish to handle side or the barrel side ?

Thanks to all

[Carmoney]

It doesn't matter. But like I said, round off the square end before putting it back together. That way there are no sharp edges to catch.