slavex Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 ok so I've read all the tips and such about the primer slide on the 1050, but I don't understand why all of a sudden I need to shim it. I've replaced the feeder nipple on the primer tube as it finally wore out, but that shouldn't make me need to shim the slide retaining bolt thingy should it? Very frustrating to suddenly have it not wanting to feed primers reliably. like 20 out of 120 not getting primers. And at least 3 out of the 100 with mushed primers. Everything has been cleaned and tightened as it was before, but I just can't get it to feed the primers properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Rob: Check out this thread it may help. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...+slide+shimming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 If it was working before, then something changed I know, MR Obivous. If you put a new primer tip, put a few in with the tube out and check to see that they are not hanging up. You may need to spread the lips apart a little bit. I did on a new one this last week. Next pull your primer punch and clean and check the spring. I am assuming the primer slide raceway is clean and smooth. I would then look and see if the springs on the primer slide acuator bar( thing that pivots off the primer tube assy.) look like they are worn out, ie. crushed) If so replace. Then make sure the primer half moon thing on the back, which keeps the primer slide from going too far has the round part to the left side of the machine(as you stand in front of it). Now, why are you crushing primers.....possible that the swage rod is not doing enough to get rid of crimp. If it was working before check and see if that is an issue. Check your cases to make sure that the primers are getting pushed out of the cases. I had this happen with new BLAZER brass CCI 9x19 and the Dillon resizing die. The decap pin was not long enough to push all the primers out of the case, ane the reswaging punch reseated the primer, then I tried to prime the case, crushing the new primer enough that the slide wouldnt move, chewing up the primer tip on the primer tube. When I noticed this, I sorted all the 9x19 CCI BLAZER brass out and used a Redding 9x19 die with the decap pin pulled out longer to positively dump the primer. No problems after this...... I havent had time to post about the Blazer brass, but see if some of this stuff helps..... Also, did you change primers? Good luck, DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dillon Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Check the primer seating punch return spring. After a while they start to collapse, and daon't always retract far enough to allow the primer slide to smoothly travel back. This causes all sorts of intermittant problems. It should be as tall as the primer punch when not in the machine. Another common problem is if the primer punch bushing isn't screwed in flush with the slot in the frame. test this by removing the primer feed, removing the stop, then sliding the primer slide back and forth by hand. If the bushing is too high, you can feel the slide "hump" upward a tiny bit as the slide starts to pass over it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted December 14, 2007 Author Share Posted December 14, 2007 (edited) Pete like I said, been to that thread. Dillon, it's a brand new seater and spring, but I'll check to make sure I've tightened it down properly, maybe it's worked itself loose? however, even when moving the slide back and forth manually (indexing setup removed) the slide hits the stop and a primer won't always fall into the hole. primers do feed through the tube and the new tip with zero problems. I won't have a chance to play with it till Saturday night though. Doug, the mushed primers has been something that's happened all along, ever since I got the press. But recently it's been occuring more often, same with the lack of primers in loaded cases. something else I forgot to mention, another thing that does happen is it spits out live primers everynow and then. Again no idea how this happens. Edited December 14, 2007 by slavex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 (edited) Rob, couple of things I would try. Take the primer slide out and take some individual primers and drop then on top of the hole in the slide like the primer tube does. You may try to lightly polish the top of the primer hole in the slide so the primer has a slick area to drop into. dont do too much , but I think you know what I mean. There may be a reason that the primer doesnt drop into the hole like it does. It sounds like the primer is half in the hole, with one side propped up. I see them that way when I try to prime a already primed case. If you havent already, you might need to replace the rubber tubing on the little "tit" on the back of the slide as well. When that gets worn out, it gets big and rubs on the whole raceway, slowing down the speed of the slide, which will also cause the problem you are having. When I replace the tubing, I put a drop of super glue on the "tit" so the tubing doesnt move around on it, which makes it last longer. Lastly, have you had the problem with the same primers? Maybe try some others to see if you have the same problem. I know this is frustrating, but if it has worked find before you will just have to figure out what changed or needs replacement. I saw that you said it has always mushed primers.....Do you have the swage rod adjusted for any crimp on the cases? I dont know if you have any crimped cases that might be causing problems. Also, make sure you are cycling the press slowly. The primer slide should be smooth the hole way front and back. If there is a "hitch" then it has something to do with the slide. Also if it looks like there is a hitch, use a marker to mark up the channel the slide runs in, or look for big rub marks on the slide. The stuff is there if you can find it! Keep at it, DougC Edited December 14, 2007 by DougCarden Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted December 14, 2007 Author Share Posted December 14, 2007 I suspected the rubber bit and replaced it. it had to be cut to fit. but as of right now it's not binding. The swager is swaging. It didn't used to be and I'd see a lot more problems then (first couple weeks I had the press). I use Federal and CCI lead free primers, this happens with both. I've tried Winchester now as well, no difference. I am going to take another look at the hole in the primer slide and see if there is something I missed on it. what's best to polish it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted December 16, 2007 Author Share Posted December 16, 2007 OK did a complete tear down tonight and cleaned everything again. I also ran some brake cleaner and swabs through the primer tube, it was filthy. possibly contributing to the problem. I also installed a shim (washer), but it's more than needed and allows the slide to go slightly too far. But I don't think that will be a problem as it's only about .5 to 1.0 mm too far. I also polished up the hole in the slide, using some very mild polishing compound followed by a straight cloth wheel on my Dremel. it looked like there was a slight bur on the rear edge of the hole, and now it's smooth. I tried rapid cycling of the slide by hand and it fed every time. I loaded 200 rounds and had one primer get squished, and zero missed primers. One strange thing happened though. I checked my primer depth and found them to be much deeper than previous and had to back them out a bit. Not sure what would have caused that unless there was something between the toolhead bolt/washer and the toolhead? I also Loktite'd the big nut that holds the shell plate down. I've had it backing off even with new nylon lock tabs tightened right up. It worked before, and it's not that difficult to remove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougCarden Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 Awright, now we are getting somewhere. If your primer depth changes then either the toolhead bolt loosened up, the shellplate is not tight, or the big bolt that holds down the lever that pushes up the primer punch loosened up on you. I loaded a bunch this last week and had to tighten up that bolt several times. I think I am gonna pull it, degrease it, and use a very tiny bit of blue loctite on it. The only other thing I can think of mushing up a primer is the case needing more swage, or you are pulling the handle too fast, or .....hey, make sure that the white plastic piece that you can adjust the case to the shellplate for the priming station is got the case tight into the shellplate. Rob, I think you have it nailed at this point. I would slow down on your rythym and see what happens. It is amazing how it works better when you clean it, and it is scary how much gunk gets in the tube from the primers. See ya, DougC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 Glad to hear that it's starting to work for you. The shellplate nut, have you reefed on the lock bolts that hold the plastic wedges? I find mine will loosen if they aren't really tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted December 16, 2007 Author Share Posted December 16, 2007 funny thing is this all started after a cleaning...... the white piece that holds the case in place is adjusted as well as can be done (it's got a depression from being in the same place for so long with the cap screw being so tight). the plastic wedges are as tight as I can get them Pete, and you've met me so you know I'm not some wimp. The loktite was just a final option and it seems to work just fine. I need a large wrench to undoe the nut when I do a tear down, but that's no big deal. a few spins and the loktite is broken free. I may try adjusting for more swage. as it is likely heavily crimped Winchester ammo that is causing the problems (no way am I sorting my brass by manufacturer). But I find the swaging tool setup to be the most voodoo science going on this machine. You can't see what's going on. How do you tell if you've gone too far? None of the other tips and hints really explain that too well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 The instructions that come with my Super1050 weren't too bad. I'll scan that section and e-mail it to you. I have your addy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted December 16, 2007 Share Posted December 16, 2007 funny thing is this all started after a cleaning...... the white piece that holds the case in place is adjusted as well as can be done (it's got a depression from being in the same place for so long with the cap screw being so tight). the plastic wedges are as tight as I can get them Pete, and you've met me so you know I'm not some wimp. The loktite was just a final option and it seems to work just fine. I need a large wrench to undoe the nut when I do a tear down, but that's no big deal. a few spins and the loktite is broken free. I may try adjusting for more swage. as it is likely heavily crimped Winchester ammo that is causing the problems (no way am I sorting my brass by manufacturer). But I find the swaging tool setup to be the most voodoo science going on this machine. You can't see what's going on. How do you tell if you've gone too far? None of the other tips and hints really explain that too well. You use a cutoff wheel in a dremel to cut a case in half from the bullet end right through the primer end. Then you insert the case into the shell plate, so that you can see the swager through the open half..... After crushing two shell plates, that was my final resort..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted December 17, 2007 Author Share Posted December 17, 2007 hmm might just have to do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Awright, now we are getting somewhere. If your primer depth changes then either the toolhead bolt loosened up, the shellplate is not tight, or the big bolt that holds down the lever that pushes up the primer punch loosened up on you. I loaded a bunch this last week and had to tighten up that bolt several times. I think I am gonna pull it, degrease it, and use a very tiny bit of blue loctite on it. The only other thing I can think of mushing up a primer is the case needing more swage, or you are pulling the handle too fast, or .....hey, make sure that the white plastic piece that you can adjust the case to the shellplate for the priming station is got the case tight into the shellplate. Rob, I think you have it nailed at this point. I would slow down on your rythym and see what happens. It is amazing how it works better when you clean it, and it is scary how much gunk gets in the tube from the primers. See ya, DougC Started having primer smearing problems at 17,000+ rounds loaded on my S1050... I was loosening up the white plastic piece thinking that the case didn't have room to manover over the primer... I'll tighten it down a bit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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