Coolduckboy Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 (edited) Hello, I am looking to upgrade the trigger a bit and have heard some ideas for setting up a good trigger system (most of which i forgot) but figured I would go here and ask. Looking for a 2-sub2 trigger on a S_I gun. I like a crisp trigger that doesn't have any hiccups (bumpy travel) Edited October 15, 2007 by Coolduckboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boz1911 Posted October 15, 2007 Share Posted October 15, 2007 What type of gun? or did I miss that? and what are you trying to accomplish? Lighter, crisper, length, , shape, travel, reset, ?? Lotsa questions before starting........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coolduckboy Posted October 15, 2007 Author Share Posted October 15, 2007 updated sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boz1911 Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 My S-I gun is at 1lb 13oz and that's really marginal. High quality and lightweight components are a must, fitting them all together will require proper jigs and fitting not to mention trial and error. Since this forum has some of the most reknown gunsmiths in the world, you may want to contact them for detailed advice......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 Under 3.5 pounds and DURABLE needs a trip to a GOOD trigger man. If you don't, it will probably bite you at some point, but don't worry as it won't bite until you need it to work. Sure, lots of guys have done their own 2# triggers, but you don't hear about the failures and parts in a bin somewhere that didn't work. Benny Hill and Rich Dettlehouser both do FINE trigger work on 1911 types and neither one takes much time getting it back to you. I wouldn't hesitate a moment to send either one my own guns to work on, they are that good. Those two guys would be my choice if I sent a gun out to have a light trigger done and needed it to last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Biondi Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 EE hammer, EGW hard sear, SVI titanium sear spring or Clark's sear spring, S_I disconnector, 15 lbs mainspring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatcat Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 This is what I've had installed on 2 single stacks and 3 STI/SV wide bodies: Koenig Hammer EGW Sear SV Disconnector STI or SV triggers "standard" hammer lever, mainspring housing cap 19 lb Wolf mainspring On one of the single stacks, the frame holes were a little oversized. The gunsmith used a set of oversized pins by Marvel to compensate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3gunr Posted October 17, 2007 Share Posted October 17, 2007 Order a "trigger in a bag" from Brazos custom. You get everything you need except a disconnecter. Have on myself and a friend has one also. Both are right at 2 lbs. All the angles have been cut an polished. HARD to beat for $150 and you dont have to pay big bucks to ship off your blaster. 3gunr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coolduckboy Posted October 17, 2007 Author Share Posted October 17, 2007 (edited) what about the tri-glide system or the Extreme Engineering ultimate trigger kit? Edited October 17, 2007 by Coolduckboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcattack Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 I have never used tri glide but my gun has the extreme kit, Main spring is 18 lbs. and long firing pin and my trigger pull is 1.3 lbs. and has never failed but it was a little tricky to get set this low. may take a lot of trial and error to get it where you want it. I have setup 5 guns with the extreme and all have worked flawless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasmap Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 I have the Tri-Glide system in my Limited gun and my SS and I love it. Both break crisp and clean around 2.5#, which is exactly what I like. I didn't do the triggers, my gunsmith did and he did a helluva good job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 (edited) If your hammer pin and sear pin are parallel to each other and relatively square to the frame you can put in the 'kits' and have a good trigger that will be just fine. If they aren't, and there are as many that aren't parallel as there are parallel ones out there, then you need help, or a heavier pull weight to get it to hold up longer. To get under 3 pounds and have a trigger that will last through dry fire and live fire for a reasonable period of time the hammer and sear engagement needs to be even across the sear nose and hammer hooks, if the holes aren't perfectly parallel to each other you will not get a light trigger to last putting a 'kit' in. In this case you will need a GOOD trigger man to compensate for the alignment problems by cutting the parts 'crooked' in the right amount in the right direction to attain even engagement. He will need your frame and the trigger parts IN HAND to do this work. I am very hesitant to recommend 'kits' because I have a good idea how many frames out there don't have true pin holes, and without true pin holes all the prep work in the world is useless until the direction and amount of error in the pin holes is known. If the holes are parallel a very nice trigger can be installed with some of the kits, I have the most experience with the Extreme Engineering parts from Shooters Connection and if you are lucky enough to have parallel holes 2# reliable is not out of the question provided you know how to balance it out. Edited October 18, 2007 by HSMITH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Run n Gun Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 Stephan, The best thing is just let Rob do this one and then practice on regular 1911. It's not really hard IF you have the right tools and a chance to "play" with doing it a bit to learn how. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonub Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 i dropped in a egw sear koeinig hammer. had a tuned triglide searspring. disconnector and trigger also triglide. viola 1.3 pounds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonub Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 then i got bored with the koeinig and dropped in a svi hammer, the spurless that is about 30 grains lighter than koeinig. and it still dropped at less than 1.5 pounds. once a year the left sear spring leg should be adjusted by bending ever so slightly forward. mine usually happens on the first quarter when the hammer will follow to halfcock at lamr. after checking the trigger, it dropped to less than a pound. so i just bend it back till it reaches about 1.5 and its good to go for another year. it has already happened 2 years in a row. so this year around jan ill check the weight of the pull. if its at 1 pound or less, time to bend the sear spring again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adweisbe Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 If your hammer pin and sear pin are parallel to each other and relatively square to the frame you can put in the 'kits' and have a good trigger that will be just fine. Sounds like something you might be able to measure in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 If you have a pin gauge set with long pins or a CMM sure, but without tools it is impossible to measure accurately. Measuring it is a lot harder than cutting the parts to fit....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adweisbe Posted October 24, 2007 Share Posted October 24, 2007 (edited) If you have a pin gauge set with long pins or a CMM sure, but without tools it is impossible to measure accurately. Measuring it is a lot harder than cutting the parts to fit....... What I meant is that you could determine on a per gun basis whether it needs to be done by a smith or a drop in kit. It's an optimistic approach to the problem. Edited October 24, 2007 by adweisbe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted October 24, 2007 Share Posted October 24, 2007 Agreed. The easy way to see is to color the sear nose with a marker, drop the kit in, and dry fire it a couple times. If the sear nose isn't showing even contact across the entire nose it needs to see a pro so that he can make that way. If it comes out even we are down to pin hole spacing, if that is right on the angles pre-cut will be right and it will work great. I don't mean to complicate matters, but it is a critical part of the gun. Lots of shooters are spoiled because STI and SVI do a great job of putting the holes in straight and on location, they have been able to drop in a kit and have great luck. I would guess that at least 3 out of 10 and probably up to 5 out of 10 frames aren't spot on though, and we need to be educated enough to know when to seek help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coolduckboy Posted October 24, 2007 Author Share Posted October 24, 2007 so even if i get my gun from the sti factory, the pins my still be off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted October 24, 2007 Share Posted October 24, 2007 Yes, nothing is perfect, and chasing 2 pound or less triggers the engagement needs to be perfect if you want it to be safe, reliable and long lasting. Drilling the holes perfectly on location and having them exit perfectly on location is NOT easy, trust me on this one. Don't get me wrong, STI and SV do a fine job putting these holes in, it's just that it is a very tough task to hit a home run every single time. If you wanted a 4 or 5 pound trigger I haven't seen one yet that wouldn't do as it came out of the box. When we push things to the limit expect it to be more difficult and more expensive than something more run of the mill would be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimWarner Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 think it would be easier to plug/weld the holes and recut em with a jig bore, then use a drop in kit? I can cut holes wherever, whatever size I want. Tuning a hammer/sear is something I've never done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 Tim, if you have that sort of capability I would single-point bore for oversized pins making sure the straight line distance is right on the money. I wouldn't go through the trouble of plugging them and trying to put them back. Ream the hammer and sear, and you should be good to go. Unless you enjoy doing it I would still strongly consider sending the gun and a check to Benny or Rich, takes all of the hassle out and the result is as good as it can get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
want2race Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 Wow, so many good stories about good triggers. How about the bad? Ok, I'll start. Had a Koenig hammer, STI sear, stock spring, 19lb main. Was OK. 2.5 pounds. Wanted 2. After much fiddling (i.e. learning), trying various primary sear angles, hook heights and sear spring adjustments I was left with a nice crisp 2 pound trigger pull, that would hammer follow like a champ when dropping the slide. niiiice. After making so many adjustments to the hooks, they scooted far enough back that my safety was no longer blocking the sear (failed function check of safety). This was, after all, just a lesson in learnin' anyway. I had planned on buying new parts anyway. Dropped in a brand new EE kit. Complete with STI stock sear spring and retained my 17 pound main spring. Trigger was insane at about 4 pounds. Did I mention I was installing this AT THE match? Right. I brought my jig and stone with me. Adjusted the sear spring and stoned the top of the "Race" disconnector so it would quit hitting the side of the disconnector notch in my Caspian side. Got the trigger down to about 3 pounds (according to my highly sensitive index digit) . I could live with that. Unfortunately it couldn't. Last stage my trigger stopped resetting. I had to smack the bottom of the mag to get the trigger to reset. Back at the safe area, guts back out, stoned the disconnector leg of the sear spring. It had a rough edge where it contacts the disconnector and was "holding" onto it. That lasted until the Area 3 match. 2nd stage of the day. Had two light strikes in a row (rounds checked out). Installed 19 lbs spring after stage (at closest safe area) and continued without incident. Check trigger later with 19, 3.5 pounds. After some foul language I polished the hooks (with cotton) and stoned the secondary angle a bit more. Then ground and polished my Ti hammer strut, re-oiled and installed the 17lbs main spring, polished the sides of the hammer, hammer pin and sear pin. Back to a crisp 2.5 pound trigger. Many $$$'s short and two blown stages later I'm back to where I started. 2.5 pound trigger and just a little bit smarter. That was fun. Did I mention I run an -4 coil, 18 pound recoil spring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coolduckboy Posted October 26, 2007 Author Share Posted October 26, 2007 i was planning on getting the EE kit and with that story i might give that money to a gunsmith to do it for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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