DBChaffin Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 (edited) Just trying to get a better understanding of this. A bull barrel on the muzzle end locks up against the slide. I have heard it described as "10 and 2" with 12 o'clock being top dead center, and then I have heard it described as 4, 8, and 12 o'clock, with the 12 o'clock position being approximately 1/2" behind the muzzle. Which is correct or can someone describe it more accurately? FWIW, I am asking because I am curious about either having a bull barrel fluted or turning it down behind the lockup point to a bushing profile. I've attached a couple pictures below from a gunsmith's website as an example. How far can the flutes or turning be safely extended without interfering with lockup? Last 1/4", 1/2", etc. Does anyone see any problems with the fluting done in these photos? Any information is greatly appreciated. Edited October 2, 2007 by DBChaffin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianH Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 I'd go with fluting, Doug. You're not cutting away you're locking surface....just breaking it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott R Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 If you are doing it to remove weight why not machine all the way to a bushing barrel profile and put a bushing in it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 Fluting will be a better route if you have to go with a bull barrel. With bull barrels I want to see a pretty large locking surface, it isn't like a bushing where if it gets a little loose you can just toss it and put another one in for $25. Bull barrels need to maintain fit over the life of the barrel, and that has me looking for as much contact area as I can get to distribute the wear. Bushing barrels are just as accurate as a bull when fitted well, unless you really want the cool factor of a fluted barrel go with a bushing barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gans Posted October 3, 2007 Share Posted October 3, 2007 Where the barrel locks up depends on the brand you choose. 1- Some make their barrels a little oversize at the muzzle for final fitting to slide bore. The taper will begin about a 1/4" from the end. You will have full contact all around the barrel except at the very bottom. 2- Others, will make the muzzle end undersized. It will be turned down slightly smaller than the slide bore. This area will extend back to about 1" from the muzzle, then the taper will start there. The contact area will be at the bottom of the slide (each side of the lug cut) at the muzzle and at the top (about 1" back). The sides will not make contact. With (1), you can put the flutes anywhere except at the bottom where it contacts the slide (each side of center). With (2), you will still need the same contact area at the bottom. At the top is where you need to be careful. If you fit the barrel first then cut a flute through the top, you will be removing some of the contact area. It would be better to stop the flute before the contact and then start it again past the contact area. That would leave a pad at the contact area on top. Another way would be to flute the barrel first, then use the areas on each side of the flute for final fitting of the contact areas. Number of flutes and their placement makes a difference also. I would suggest flutes over turning down. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBChaffin Posted October 3, 2007 Author Share Posted October 3, 2007 (edited) Makes sense, gentlemen. Thanks. It'd be a Schuemann, which I believe is the 2nd type under your descriptions. I would also flute before fitting. Assuming that to be the case, would 6 flutes like those pictured above be acceptable? Edited October 3, 2007 by DBChaffin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted October 3, 2007 Share Posted October 3, 2007 should be if you have someone competent with barrels doing the fluting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radical Precision Designs Posted October 3, 2007 Share Posted October 3, 2007 To me makes much more sense to completely fit the barrel first to the gun/slide. Make sure your barrel is "burnished/polished" radially. Shoot it a few times, or at least cycle it a few times to indicate "rub/wear" patterns, more specifically at between around 7-8 o'clock 4-5 o'clock and 11-1 o'clock. These will most likely be your "slide and lock" areas. Leave these areas alone . Flute up to 1/2" from inside muzzle. You can also reduce/whittle considerably between 9-3 (up) to reduce weight. Be careful how deeply you flute, or how wide. What the heck, if you ruin a couple of barrels ... it's only money !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benny hill Posted October 3, 2007 Share Posted October 3, 2007 The schumman barrels lock up at 12 0'clock about 3/4" back of the muzzle & at 5 & 7 o'clock at the bottom front edge of the slide. Pay attention to the above post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted October 3, 2007 Share Posted October 3, 2007 Hello: I think I would listen to Venry and Benny. I think they have done this kind of thing once or twice ;-) Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshidaex Posted October 3, 2007 Share Posted October 3, 2007 DBChaffin, Thats a nice looking flute job. Who did it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cheely Posted October 3, 2007 Share Posted October 3, 2007 http://www.geminicustoms.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshidaex Posted October 3, 2007 Share Posted October 3, 2007 Thanks Matt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBChaffin Posted October 3, 2007 Author Share Posted October 3, 2007 Thanks Matt! Yeah, thanks Matt! Sorry I didn't post that. It was indeed Marc Morganti at Gemeni Customs, and he does some pretty impressive machine work. I like the top serrations that flow into the rear Heinie sight... Thanks also to all that responded. Lots of very knowledgeable folks around here that don't mind sharing that knownledge. It is greatly appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Singlestack Wonder Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 Just curious. The reason we all started using bull barrels in our limited pistols in the early 90's was to add addtional weight up front to better control recoil. Are you fluting the barrel to reduce overall pistol weight? If that's the case, I would have a new bushing barrel fitted and keep the bull barrel. If you decide to sell the pistol, the buyer could have both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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